RS
OWNER'S MANUAL
SWA/RS SEWING MACHINE MODELS 385.
1158180
or
385.
1168180
SEARS, ROEBUCK
AND CO.
Dear Customer:
You
have just
invested
_n a very
please pause for a moment and care for your
Specific
instructions
are given
the best sewing
Advice
on the operation
the model
zigzag sewing
results
on threading, and avoid
and serial number
tension
Before
which
using your
contains
machine
about
new Kenmore
instructions
when
you
Record
_n space of
are located
thls
prowded appliance.
on the
cleamng,
service expense
is always
your
Kenmore
number
adjustments,
unnecessary
and care of your
if you have questions
number
machine.
read this book{et
on how
machine, to operate
machine.
obtain
Please remember,
fine
and carefully
available
machine
oiling,
etc. This will
for conditions
at your
or need parts
beyond
nearest
Sewing Machine below
the
The model
nomenclature
mode_ number
number
and
and serial
plate,
as identified
Serial
No.
serial
number
on Page 3 of
this booklet.
Model
No. 385.
Retain
these numbers
THIS
MODEL
for future
IS A CENTER
reference.
NEEDLE,
LOW
BAR
SEWING
Sears Retaif
and service,
inquire.
MACHINE.
help you
our control.
always
Store.
mention
TABLE
SECTION
1.
KNOW
YOUR
MACHINE
A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available ............ Locate and Tdentify the Parts ................. |dentify the Accessories .................... SECTION
2.
PREPARE
YOUR
MACHINE
FOR
the Presser Foot Lever Cutter ...........................
3.
LEARN
THE
4_6 .....
4 4 5 5 5
Table
_, ,
6 6 6
Turn a Square Corner ...................... Use the Darning Plate ................ Topstltching ..................... Left Needle Position ....................
SECTION
4
6 7 7
SECTION
5.
8
15_16 15 15 15 16 16 16
CARE
.............. ............. CHART
..................
FOR YOUR
26_27
MACHINE
Clean the Feed Dogs ..................... Clean the Shuttle Race .............. Oiling the Machine ....................... • Oil behind the Face Cover Plate and under Arm Cover Plate ...................... • Oil the Underside .......................
28 28_29
t
8_9 9 I 0_11 10 11 t2_13 t3 14 t4
to Do When
PROBLEMS
17 18_20 18 18 19 19 20 20 21 22 23_24 25 25
Replacing the Light Bulb ................. Cleaning the Machine ..................
8_9 .....
PERFORMANCE What
6_7
STITCHES
Straight Stitches ................... •Stratght Stitch ................... • Use the Seam Guides ................... • • • •
3
To Change Your Needle .................. Cheek Your Needle .... ,, , ................. Fabric, Needle and Thread Chart ................
Prepare the Bobbin ................... s To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine a Wind the Bobbin .................... o |nsert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case .......... Prepare Your Top Thread .................. • Thread Your Needle .................. • Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread ............... Adjust the Top Thread Tension ............. Stitch Selector .......................... Reverse Stitch Control ....................... Starting To Sew ..................... SECTION
2_3
.................
• Free Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension • Accessory Storage Box .................. • Change the Presser Foot .................... Choose Your Needle and Thread ............. • • •
Darning ............................. Zigzag Stitches ..................... • Basic Zigzag ....................... • Satin Stitch ....................... • Monogramming .................... • Bar Tacking ........................ Overcasting Stitch ....................... • Three*Step Zigzag .................... Blind Hemming .......................... Lace Work .............................. Sew in a Zipper ......................... Shell Stitching (Mode_ 11681 only) Box Stitching (Model 11681 only)
2
SEWING
Set Up the Machine ...................... • Plug in the Machine and Sw_tch on the Power • Foot Controf Use ...................... • Setting Spool Pin ........................ • Adjust m Thread
OFCONTENTS
PARTS
LIST
................................
INDEX
..................................
28 29 30 the 30 30 3t 32
SECTION
1.
KNOW YOUR
MACHINE Locate and Identify
A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available A full nearest
line
of sewing
Sears
retail
cabinets store
or
are available
at your
through
general
our
catalog. Another your where.
the Parts
Upper
Take-up Lever optuon Kenmore
_ •
buy a Carrying
goes anywhere,
Thread
Thread
Gutde
Spool
Pin
Case . • , then
can be stored
anyBobbin Winding Tension Disc
Top
Thread
Face Cover
Tension
Bobbin
W_nding
Spindle
\
Control
Plate
Thread
Cutter
Needle
Plate
Reverse
Shuttle
on Extensi (Accessory Table storage
box)
Cover
Stitch
Control
Stitch
Selector
SECTION
ArmCover Plate
Carrying
Identify
Handle
1.
KNOW YOUR MACHINE
the Accessories
Hand Wheel
Presser Foot Auto
Clutch
Lever
Knob
_Large
screw driver
Bobbin
Light and Power SwiIch
f Free Arm Small
Plug
Connector
Nomenclature
Ptate
Needle set
Zippertoot
Foot
Needle
;Presser Foot
Control
C_amp Screw
Darning
p_
screw
driver
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
YOUR
MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine Plugin the Machineand Switch on the Power
Power
suppiy
•
Foot Control
Use
plug
Foot
Power sw_tch Plug connecto[
4.
Push the
light
on the power Machine p _ug
SAFETY
and power and sewing
%
switch
to turn
light.
Before inserting the machine, be sure the
plug power
into your switch is
OFF_
1,
Check Volt
2.
Insert plug
your
outlet
to be sure it is a 110 to 120
AC outlet, the
To
FEATURE:
Insert
control
increase
speed,
the ball of your Your
machine
wifl
light]power
switch
interrupted
or
light/power
swttch
children,
not
operate
is turned
stop
sewing, to
unless
on. turn
prevent
the
)f you are off
the
injury
to
To
plug
as shown.
into
the
It will
decrease
gently
speed,
supply
your
NOTE:
control
_s sensitive
The
foot
will
increase
or
foot
decrease
speed
only
regulate
your
p_ug into the outlet.
press down
release
three-prong one
speed
at
with
foot_
on
fit
the
pres-
sure slightly,
your the power
regulates
you sew.
Practice
way, 3,
foot
sewing
machine
connector,
The which
J
NOTE:
control
and your
immediately.
a scrap sewing
taste and needs.
of
fabric
to
speed
to
SECTION
Setting Spoot
Pin
=
Adjust
the Presser Foot
Lever
=
2.
Thread
PREPARE
YOUR
MACHINE
Cutter
Normal up posJlJon High posllton
pos_t_or
P position
...........
The spool
pin
of
m order
thread
is used for holding to
feed
the spool
thread
to
the
machine. To use, purl for storage.
The
spool
pro.
Push down
Foot
Lever
raises
and
lowers
your
presser foot. You
up the
J
Presser
can raise it about
up position to
help
foot.
you
for
1/4"
easy removal
place
heavy
higher
than the normal
of the presser foot
fabrics
under
the
or
presser
You
don't
need a pmr of smssors to cut the
thread
after
handy
thread
Puif before
the
you finish
threads
starting
sewing.
Just
use the
several
inches
cutter. to
_engthen
the next seam.
FOR SEWING
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
YOUR
MACHINE
FOR SEWING Choose
Set Up the Machine (Continued) =
Free-Arm
Sewing:
Extension
Table
the Removable
t,
Accessory
=
Storage Box
•
Change the Presser Foot
Your
Needle
and Thread
To Change Your Needle
! Flat side away from you To Remove
the Extension
(for free-arm t.
2.
Grip
Table
the
tabte
with
your
and thumb,
as shown,
Pull gently
to the left.
table
The
sewing)
will
index
finger
snap out.
of
the
accessory
open toward
Sewtng
accessories
ently The extension
lid
box lifts
located
storage
you. are
in the box.
convem-
Use the correct presser foot for the stitch you wish to sew. To
change
feet,
raise the
highest
the Extension
(for flat-bed t,
Table
screw,
sewing)
Insert
the
tab
insert and
the
pin
into
their
catches. 2,
With gently
Tighten large
your
thumb
snap in.
and
index
finger,
various presser
position
presser foot Loosen
To Attach
the
by
the
1.
thumb
the proper
2.
3.
screw
using
screw
driver
to
is secure,
the make
needle by
to
the
its
highest
hand
wheel
you,
the
needle
it toward
Remove
bar
turning
the
clamp
screw
bv
you.
needle
by pulling
it down-
ward.
foot,
the bottom.
the
certain the foot
Loosen turning
lever.
choose
the
toward
bar to its lifting
Raise position
presser
the presser foot from
NOTE:
Insert
the
clamp
with
new
4.
Push the needle
5.
Tighten with
the the
accessory
needle
into
the
the flat side away
you.
up as far as it will go.
needle
large box.
needle
from
clamp
screw
screwdriver
from
firmly your
SECTION
Fabric,
Needle
2.
PREPARE YOUR
and Thread
MACHINE
Chart NEEDLE SiZE AND COLOR
FABRIC
FOR SEWING
THREAD
SIZE
........................
L_ghtwmght: Batiste, D imltv, Chiffon, Silks. Fine Lace, Organza, Crepe,
Taffeta,
11-ORANGE
Voile,
needtes: Blue [11) Orange
......
for stretch
(1 1 ) ......
Red (14)
for
(16)
.......
for
Medium Heavy Weight: Corduroy, Oen_rn, Wool,
fabrics.
medium
weight Purple
or
Sailcloth,
medium-heavy
Gabard{ne,
fabrics.
and decorative
weight
topstitching
(This
thread
(18)
......
for
needle
on these has a larger
hofe for thicker
heavy
decorative
topstltching
weight
fabrics
and
on
these
top-stitching
fabrics. Replacement
Kenmore
needles
are available
at your
nearest
Sears
stores. =
Check
1.
Look
2.
A
Your
Cotton
50 Mercerized Cotton Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap SHk A
Mercerized Heavy.Du ty Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Silk A Heavy Duty Mercerized
Heavy Weight: Coatings, Upholstery Cotton Duck, Heavy Twills, Canvas
1B-GREEN
Decorative top-stitching on all types Of fabric
16-PURPLE 18-GREEN
Stretch Fabric: Polyester Double Kmts, Nylon Tricot, Jersey, Stretch Terry, Spandex_ Cire Tricot
11-BLUE (STRETCH FABRIC NEEDLE)
Cotton Polyester
Core!Cotton
Wrap Si_k A Buttonhole IUse
as tOp
Twist thread
only)
Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap 50 Mercerized Cotton
Needle
for barbed
damaged
kmts,
Flannel,
Velvets_
fabrics
thread,) Green
Wool
Mercerized
50 Mercerized Cotton 14-R E D or 1B-PURPLE
Leather
medium-heavy
fabrics,
14-RED
fabrics.
for lightweight
.....
Medium We}ght: Cotton, Cotton Blends, Percafe, Gingham, Shantung, Pique, Seersucker, Satin, Knits, Vinyl Su_tmgs, Linen_ Wool Crape, Leather
Fine
Si}k A
Organdy
Yourchoiceof needle andthreaddepends onthefabricyouare sewing. Inyourneedle envelope, you will find the following color-coded
I
Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap
or blunt
needle
can
fine silks and silk-like
point. cause
permanent
snags
or runs
m
fabrics.
Always buy a good quality thread. It should resist tangling and be strong, smooth and consistent in thickness, 7
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
YOUR MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Prepare the Bobbin •
To Remove
= Wind the Bobbin
the Bobbin Case from the Machine
Release
knob
toward
you
moving Remove
the
the
machine
left,
Open
extension by the
the
shuttle
cover
by
down
the left
side of the cover,
Rinse needle
to
from
it to
pulling
by rotating
the
table
pulling
embossed
its highest
hand wheel
part on
posit_on
toward
you,
To
case from
shut-
tie, pull open
remove
latch
of
case.
Pull
case
straight
bobbin
shuttle.
bobbin
bobbin
out
of
clutch
clutch
bobbin,
by
inside
turning
the hand
the wheel
to stop the needle from
while
you
winding
the
SECTION
= Wind the Bobbin
2.
PREPARE
YOUR MACHINE
FOR SEWING
(Continued)
f
7 k Draw bobbin
thread
from
wmd;ng
spool
tension
through
Pull
end
bobbin
disc as shown.
of
thread
through
hole
in
Place
as shown.
bobbin
spindle from
until
•
Insert the Bobbin
into the Bobbin
with the
bobbin
onto
top
winding it clicks.
thread,
start
slightly
filled,
bobbin
end
of
of
the
thread
coming
bobbin.
spindle Holding
machine.
to
the
onto When
snip off
Wind
winding
Push
thread bobbin
Push
lef_ and clip
right
end
until
winder
winding thread.
stops. spindle
Remove
Turn
clutch
knob
away
of
while
holding
hand
wheel
is
sewing
bobbin
to
the
bobbin.
from for
you
normal
operation.
end of thread.
Case
(-
::ii! ¸¸/
Place making w_se bobbin
bobbin
,
in
bobbin
sure thread and
ts
as shown.
case
feeds clock-
coming
from
Pull thread as shown.
through
slot
of case
under
Pull
thread
spring
and through
as shown
above.
inches of thread
teoslon
the opening Pull 3 to 4
from
bobbin.
Holding case latch.
into
latch
open,
shuttle
and
position release
Case
should
when
latch
lock
into
is released.
place
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
YOUR MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Prepare Your Top Thread ,, Thread Your Needle
Raise take-up
lever to its highest position
Raise presser foot Place spool
The numbered
steps
above
follow
loops
lines
show
places
and then is pulled
t_ght.
where
Draw
2,
While
holding
check
spring holder.
3.
Firmly
draw thread
4.
Draw thread
5.
Thread
the numbers
the
thread
NOTE:
1o
pin as shown,
1.
on the illustrations, Dotted
on spool thread
You
by turning
hand
wheel toward
you.
lever.
into
thread
thread
down
needle from may want
guide near
with
using both
spool,
up and through and slip tt into front
thread
draw
coming
from
the back
of the spool.
hands, thread
take-up
down
lever from
needle bar thread
into
the tension
right
to left.
area and
then
guide.
to back.
to cut the end of thread
with
sharp scissors for easier needle threading.
around
the
SECTION
Pick Up Your
2.
PREPARE
YOUR MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Bobbin Thread
! Raise
presser
thread
loosely
handwheeL
foot
iever.
Ho|d
in left hand
toward
top
2_
and rotate
Bring
bobbin
thread
up
top thread,
by
pulling
3.
Pull
both
back
of
threads the
to 6 inches of thread
you one comptete
under
presser
foot,
and
to the
leaving
4
clear.
turn.
If you cannot
pick
up bobbin
1.
Is needle threaded
2,
ls thread
3.
Are 3 to 4 inches
4.
Is thread
5.
Is bobbin
6.
ls the machine
tangled
from
from
front
around
steps gtven above, then
check:
to back?
coming
from
the shuttle?
tangled?
Lnstalled
threaded
by following
needle?
of thread
shuttle
properly
thread
in the bobbin
according
case?
to the instructions?
11
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
YOUR
MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Adjust the Top Thread Tension Choose Top
the Correct
The best tension
side ot fabric
will
depend
on;
the stiffness
and thickness
----
the number
of fabric
---
the type
Settmgrnark
Loosen
Tenslon:
of the fabric
layers
of stitch
f f
Top thread Tighten
fobbin thread
For Straight The
ideal
fabric, tf you
The top thread _stoo tight
The top thread is too loose.
straight
as shown look
gaps, that
o?&
Stitch stitch above,
at the
each stitch
When adjustmg
will
have threads
magnified
stitch,
front
is smooth
top thread
locked
between
the
two
layers
of
The top thread appears on the underside o| the
to show detail. and back,
you
will
notice
that
there
The bobbin thread appears on the upper surlace Ot the Jabric.
_abr_e,
are no
and even.
tension,
the higher
the number,
the tighter
the top
th read.
k,........
Tension The bottom
top
_s too loose: thread of the
of the stitch
12
will
Tension through
the
The
The bottom
side
the
shows fabric.
feel bumpy.
is too tight:
bobbin top
the stitch
thread
of the will
will
fabric.
come The
feel bumpy.
top
through s_de of
SECTION
2.
PREPARE Stitch
YOUR
MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Selector
For Zigzag Stitch In the correct
zigzag
of
the
fabric
below
and
top
for the correct
stitch,
the bobbin
threads
will
appearance.
show
threads
wilt
slightly
To match
this
not show on the top side on the
bottom
appearance,
adjust
side. your
Model
11681
See top
tension. Top tension
Top tension
Too Tight
Just Right
Too Loose f
Stitch
The Top side of Fabric
Top slde o| Fabric
Top s_de ot Fabric
stitch
stitch
selector
you select,
regular
types
side ot Fabric
Bottom
side of Fabric
Too Tight:
Too Loose:
Just Right:
--
--
Minimize the amount ot top thread visible on the bottom side ol tabric wtthout causing excessive puckering or causing the bobbin thread to show on the top stde, Results vary with labrlc_ thread and sew;ng conditions.
Corner ot each zigzag will pull together on the top side of tabr_cs,
The top thread will toop through bottom side of fabric and wit| be pulled ekmost together,
length
of stitches
NOTE:
To
or
needle
needle
is up
determines
the stitch
the for
by color.
are orange.
fabric and
width
stltches.
are designated
Stitches
avoid
only
for straight
Zigzag and Utility
adjusting
Bottom
not
Strmght,
your
side of Fabric
control
but also regulates
zigzag and stitch
The different
_ottom
W_"'""''i_
Selector//__
out
damage, of
fabric
be sure when
this control,
Model
11581
cl l,,, °4
13
SECTION 2.
PREPAREYOURMACHINEFORSEWING
Reverse Stitch Control
Starting To Sew Now
that
you are familiar
the machine, Below
1.
are some good
inspect
the
correct
size
for
2.
Before
Many
placing
to follow
fabric
of
the
be straight, and
thread
new
material
your
properly being
fabrics
Test
the
machine
thickness. 4, To reverse
stitch,
hold
down
this control
during
sewing. Release to sew forward
Fabric
should
needle
and the
when again.
5.
Adjust
on the
making
made
machine,
right
will
Do
not
of synthetic
on the point,
be afraid
blends
tend
to to
it should
change
dull
your
be the needle
the needles
more
of
see that
fabric
material
the ends of the
you
plan
foot
with
to
during
use,
and tension the
placed on the
bulk
have been drawn
the sewing
The fabric suitable
of the
5/8"
threads
should
to your
material
seam marking
of the first
3 or
be double
fabric.
to the left
of the
on the needle plate
at a slow
even speed,
The more
pressure
you put
on the foot
controf,
the faster
sew.
each seam by back tacking
7.
Always
finish
8.
Guide
When turning
for
seam,
Fasten
9.
provided
machine.
to sew:
Hold on to threads
the presser
6.
sewing
the fabric
the accessories
sewing
set and sharp
used.
for the length of stitch
edge of the
a simple
such a way that
14
on a scrap
be placed under
Run the machine the machtne
stitch
the machine
and with
Kenmore
fibers.
about 4 inches to the rear of the machine. 4, stitches of the seam. 3.
machine new
each time you sit down
made of natural
the
on your
to sew with
It should
the
than fabrics
the controls
to start
habits
needle,
frequently. easily
with
you are ready
at the beginning
each seam with
gently
with
the normal
the hand
your
feeding
wheel
and end of the seam.
the needle at its highest hand
m front
of the
point.
needle.
is altered.
manually,
always
turn
it toward
you.
Never
pull or hold the fabric
m
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Straight Stitches •
Straight
Use the Seam Guides
Stitch Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch
selector
jl! Top thread tension controt 2 to 6 The 1.
Raise the presser foot,
2.
Raise
the
needle
7.
to
its
3,
Place to
Stra=ght foot
Zigzag foot
want
highest 8.
posmon. the
edge of
a stitching
needle
the fabric
grade
plate
line
f5/8"
is
the
end of the seam, you to reverse
Raise the
presser
to
may
lock the st=tch. foot
wldth.
9,
guides to
The
on the
help
you
needle
plate
measure
seam
lines are I/8"
apart,
with
the 518" and 718 `° lines marked.
and remove
Turn
the fabric,
next
on
"At the
seam
are there
a Square Corner
Cut the threads,
most
common). 4.
Draw
the
threads
back and lower
towards
the
the presser foot. I
5.
Press the foot
6.
Hold
the fabric
guide
it
atong
loosely the
it feeds naturatlv.
Do
not
pull
it tight.
the
and gently
grade
that
force
g
control
fabric
line,
so
or try
to
...............
To turn fabric 1.
a square
from
stitching
and
tower
needle
by
turning
hand
toward
you
when
the fabrm
facing
you
lines
Raise the
guide,
the
fabric
the 5/8"' 3.
5/8"
J
the
edge:
Stop
cornering 2.
corner
Lower stitching
up
with
the wheel edge the
as shown.
presser
foot
and
turn
to
the
edge
with
line
seam guide, the
presser foot
and begin
in the new direction, 15
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Straight Stitches (Continued) o
Use the Darning
•
Plate
Topstitching
Left Needle
Position
Set the Machine Stitch
Stitch
Stitch
selector
selector
I Top thread tens=on control :2 to 6
Sometimes
when
to control
the fabric
The Darning so that
you
sew,
Plate covers
they do not
you
Here's How
want
yourseff.
touch
To put on the Darning
1.
the feed dogs
2.
the fabric.
Plate: holes
Darning
match
m the needle plate.
the
darning
holes
are slightly
the
these
to
the left
Fit
the
needle wilt
darning plate
plate
with
show
The feed dogs
through
the
darning
plate holes. Use the darning ways:
16
Darning
Accent two
plate
in the following
emphasizes
garment
edges flat
outer
(P. 1Z7)
and Its Uses
Topstitching your
plate p_ns into the
holes.
the
edge of
guide
the fabric
to
topstitchmg
The Stitch darning
Evenly edge
In
plate,
the 3 pros on the bottom. 2.
3,
the
holes
Position
edge of
right
fabric the
next
presser
Zigzag foot
in the
of center. 1.
the
foot.
The rectangular Plate
the presser foot.
Keep the to
Straight foot NOTE:
Lower
and
keeps
rows
of
or
from
©
this
row
of
the edge,
the
lines of
seams
and
Left
topst_tching
with
one
around
lapels or collars.
or the
Needle
control
while
stitching
difficult
NOTE:
blouses
edges of cuffs,
3/8"
along
an even
Use
and crisp. sutts
produce
Position
for
topstitching
or
edge
fabrics,
Use
only
foot
for
Sewing.
more
zigzag
presser
Left
Needle
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Darning
Set the Machine Stitch
Stitch
selector
II Top thread tension control t to 4
Here's How 1, No presser foot
Put
the
darning
plate
on
the
needle
plate
{see P, 16). 2. Darmn9
plate
Remove
presser
between
foot
and
embroidery
stretch
hoops
fabric
with
hole
centered. 3.
Draw
the
fabric
by holding
bobbin
one 'stitch
at
thread the top
the
spot
up
through
thread
and
where
you
the taking
wish
to
start darning. 4.
Lower
the
presser
bar
and
sew
at
a stow
speed. 5.
6.
Move
the fabric
back
and forth
you have covered
the darning
Turn
half
the
fabric
layer of stitching NOTE
:
If
your
turn
and
over the first fabric
slowly
Js
until
area. sew another layer.
thin
or
badly
damaged, use a separate piece of fabric under the hole to reinforce _t. 7.
When piatm
you finish
darning,
remove
the darning 17
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Zigzag Stitches •
Satin Stitch
Basic Zigzag
Set the Machine
Set the Machine Stitch
Stitch
Stitch selector
Stitch selector
Top thread tension control ! to 4
Top thread tension control 2 to 5
Here's
How
There
are many
stitch.
Consult
ways
to sew a zigzag
the specific
for detailed
directions.
Satin
p. 18,
variations Zigzag foot
Zigzag foot
Stitch
Monogramming Bar Tacking Overcasting Three-step
p. 19, p. 19, p. 20,
zigzag p. 20. The Stitch
and
The zigzag stitch _s one of the most common and most versatile stitches on
The Satin
stitch
your
machine.
be used to
stitch
for
The Stitch
and Its Uses
It
mending
and
used
decorate
to
out work
18
can
be
hemming, darning, with
a
utility
overcasting, it can also be trims
or as a decorative
and
stitch.
cut-
Its Uses
used decorative
ample,
stitch,
overcast
blankets,
and napkins}.
is a versatile but
and often it can also
a raw edge (for extinens,
tablecloths
SECTION
=
Monogramming
o
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Bar Tacking
Set the Machine Stitch
3.
Set the Machine
Stitch selector
Stitch
Top thread tension controi I to 4
Stitch selector
Top thread tension control I to 4
Here's How 1.
Set the same as satin
2.
Back
the
fabric
stitch.
with
paper
or
interfacing,
Zigzag foot
This
stitch
is similar
satin
stitch
and strain
to
Is used such
a very to
points
of
pockets
and straps on lingerie.
short
reinforce
as corners
or
Zigzag foot Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches.
3.
4.
Draw
the
with
tailor's
If using when
letters
on
the
fabric
chalk.
paper,
carefully
you have finished
remove
it
sewing.
!9
SECTION 3.
LEARNTHE STITCHES
ZigzagStitches(Continued) Overcasting
Stitch
Three-Step
Zigzag "%
Set the Machine Stitch
f
Set the Machine
Stitch selector
Stitch
Top thread tension control f to 4
Stitch selector
Top thread tension control 1 to 4
J
Helpful Start
Hints overcasting
raw corner r_ght
Zigzag foot
up
Seam Finishing about
of your
1/8"
seam.
inside the
at the edge, the fabric and
the
stitches
Place
If you start
will
will
bunch
the right
Zigzag foot
become
tang]ed.
_
The Stitch This
zigzag
garment
variation
is very
construction
raw edges of any sewing
and
usefu[
in finishing
project.
m
zigzag
zigzag and straight three-step
would has flatter
use
inside
hand side of the presser foot.
Guide
the
work
stitches
fall
at the edge of the fabric.
so the
right
hand
more
basic
strength,
than a regular
ly useful
is a combination
stitch,
zigzag
the
The three-step
You
may use
everywhere zigzag
you
stitch,
elasticity,
tt
and
is
zigzag,
zigzag stitch
is especial-
for:
-
mending
-
sewing
patches
smoothfy
and
Mending Position
securely.
2O
the presser foot be slightly
and Its Uses
The three-step
the
under
the edge will
J
The Stitch
and Its Uses
the fabric
so that
-
repairing
straight
-
finishing
seams,
tears,
the tear under the needle so
that the stitching will catch both sides.
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STfTCHES
Blind Hemming 1/4"
Sat the Machine Stitch
Stitch selector
Light Weight Fabric
Top thread tenston controt 1 to 4 Heavy Weight Fabrtc The stretch
blind
1.
Finish
2,
Measure,
NOTE:
hem wilt "gwe"
the raw edge of your turn
For tight
up your wetght
3.
Fold the materiaJ
4.
Ptace garment should
5.
After
NOTE:
hemming, The stretch
hem any way you desired.
fabrics,
(See Overcasting,
you
may need a double
p. 20)
ford.
side out) on the edge to be stitched,
presser foot
the fold press both blind
and stretch fabrics.
hem and pro.
!wrong
under
_ust catch
and is used for knit
in such a manner
that
as shown,
straight
stitches
leaving 1/4" wi|l
of the finished
be sewn on extended
hem edge showing. edge.
The zigzag stitch
of the garment, sides of the finished
hem stitch
hem.
a_so can be used for
The top side of the garment Lace Work,
will
show
only
the blind
stitches.
(See p. 22}
21
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Lace Work
Set the Machine Stitch
Stitch selector
Top thread tension controJ 1 to 4
Zigzag foot
Lace to
22
adds a fanciful,
blouses
and
femimne
lingerie.
and
pillows
become
when
trimmed
with
Turn
raw edge of
1/2",
Place
stitch
using
Trim
excess fabric
more
linens elegant
lace. fabric
under
face underneath stretch
touch
Table
blind
at least and
hem stitch.
close to stitching.
top-
SECTION 3.
LEARNTHESTITCHES
Sewin a Zipper Fabric Put
Preparation:
the
gether per
right and
Set the Machine
s_des of
sew to the
opening.
Use
the
the
fabric
to-
end of the zipreverse
to
lock
the stitches. Sew
the
selector tension
z_pper at
"
opening lt
,, and
with
stitch
top
thread
at "3"
Stitch
Zipper
teeth
Stitch selector
If,',
Zipper
tape
Top thread tension control 3 to 6
4.
To Sew: 1.
Fold
back
of
2.
Turn
the _eft seam allowance
under
the
right
a 1/8"
seam allow-
5,
Lower side
P{ace the zipper t/8"
fold
fold,
and pin
teeth
next
to the
bottom
the
on the right of
the
z_pper
need]e p_erces the fold
and the z=pper tape,
in place, 6,
Top
on the left side
the z=pper foot
at the
so that 3.
side of the zipper,
foot
of the needle.
ance to form
tabrlc
left
set the zipper
as shown. Zipper foot
To sew the
edge ol _abrlc
Sew through
the fold
per
the
tape
slider 7,
Lower
to
point
and the zipwhere
the
begins. the
needle
to hold
the fab-
ric and raise the presser foot,
23
SECTION
3.
Sew in a Zipper
LEARN
THE STITCHES
(Continued)
8.
Open the zipper,
9.
Lower
10.
the presser
foot
and stitch
Close
the
z_pper
and
fabric
right
side up.
turn
the
11.
the rest of the seam, 12.
To sew the right
side of the needle.
Stitch
INVISIBLE
ZIPPER
AND t
CORDING INVISIBLE Adjust
ZIPPER
the
the
center
the
toot
Follow
ructions,
sewing
ho_e ms riding
shown.
sewing
_oot
seam
the
ot
needle
the on
_he
After
through
so
toot the
Z_pper
zipper by
_s sewing and
teeth
groove
the
manufacturer's
has been
shlftmg
one o_
through
foot
inserted, to
side
of
z_pper
as Inst-
fimsh position
sfde notch,
CORDING Foot can a_so be used to make cording for slipcovers etc. Cover a cord with a str_p ot b_as |eb_]c and sew as shown, NOTE: Use "Low Bar Sewing (6757) for "invJsibJe which can be obtained
24
Machine ZIPPER FOOT" z_pper" and "cording", at any Sears reta_! store.
Turn
the
slde of
set
tom 13.
right
per,
across
z_pper
and
the
zip-
on
the
foot
the
bot-
corner
and continue
to
guide
the
teeth,
as shown.
St*tch
through
z_pper tape.
toot
the
z_pper
about
2"
from
Lower
the
needle
Remove open
fabric
and
nght
of
17.
Lower
the
basting
eveR,
the
fabric
foot. stitches
and
the zipper. the foot
and stitch
of the seam. Make the
the
into
and raise the presser 16.
along
Stop
the z_pper. 15.
below
of the zipper. the
t4.
the rest
sure the fold
is
SECTION Box Stitching
Shell Stitching (Model 11681 only) .......
Set the Machine Stitch
F
THE STITCHES
(Model 11681 only)
Stitch
,
LEARN
Set the Machine
Stitch selector
Top thread tens=on control 3 to 9
3,
Stitch selector
Top thread tension control ! to 4
......
J
Here's How 1.
Use this
For best effect: --
you may need to tighten top thread
-
Zigzag foot
allow clear fabric
2.
If you
sew
You The Stitch
and Its Uses
The Shell
Stitch
blind
hem over
rows
ot
shell
soft
is formed folded
stitching
by sewing
the
fabric.
wovens
the
slightly.
needle
to
join
heavy
weight
to
just
it z=gzags,
rows
of shelt stitches,
1/2" Stitch
Zigzag foot
Overlap
two
use this
stitch
raw
edges together
to join
and
them.
edge of the
when
can sew She]] silky
tension
the folded
space the rows
stitch
interlining.
apart. on knits
or
in any direction.
a
Several
are called
shell
tucks. Shell
stitching
can
be used
hems, sleeve and neck Shefi
tucking
scalloped
can
tucks
be used on
to
finish
to
create
opentngs.
blouses
and
lingerie.
25
SECTION 4.
PERFORMANCE PROBLEMSCHART
Whatto DoWhen PROBLEM
PROBABLE Incorrect
Choose correct s_ze needle for thread and fabric. Rethread machine. tension.
Bunching
Needle
of Thread
thread tension(s),
very sheer or very soft,
needle
Reset presser
Upper and lower threads not drawn back under presser foot before starting seam.
Using two different sizes or kinds Bent or blunt needle. Loose presser foot.
Replace
plate, or polish off
burrs
Do not pullfabric; guide it gently, Choose correct size needle for thread Reset needle.
Incorrect setting of needle. Loose presser foot.
Fabric
26
plate.
Pulling fabric. Incorrect size needle.
Incorrect Puckering
Tighten upper thread tension. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently. Reset presser foot. Rewind bobbin.
Pulling fabric. Loose presser foot. Unevenly wound bobbin. Nicks or burrs at hole of needle
Breaking
CORRECTION
size needle.
Improper threading. Loose upper thread
Irregular Stitches
CAUSE
and fabric.
foot.
When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under and back of presser foot about 4" and hold unti_ a few stitchs are formed. Reset thread
of thread.
completely.
tension(s).
Upper thread and bobbin thread Insert new needle, Reset presser foot, Use underlay of tissue paper.
should
be same size and kind.
SECTION 4.
PROBLEM
Skipping
Breaking
PROBABLE
Stitches
Upper
Thread
CAUSE
Choose correct size needle for thread Insert new needle.
Incorrect setting of needle. Tight upper thread tension.
Reset needle, Loosen upper
Starting to stitch too fast. Improper threading. Tight upper thread tension. Incorrect size needle.
Start to stitch at a medium Rethread machine.
Nicks
Fabric
Machine
Bobbin
Thread
not Moving
Jamming
Noise
or burrs
at hole of needle plate.
thread
speed.
Loosen upper thread tension. Choose correct size needle for thread Insert new needle. Replace
shuttle,
Replace
needle plate,
or polish
off
or polish
Check bobbin case threading. Clean bobbin case and shuttle.
Darning
Remove
plate knotted
Thread caught Lint in bobbin
in place. under
fabric.
in shuttle. case or shuttle.
darning
Place both to stitch.
and fabric,
tension.
Improper bobbin case threading. Lint in bobbin case or shuttle.
Thread
Knocking
CORRECTION
Incorrect _ize needle, Bent or blunt needle.
Sharp eye in needle. Nicks or burrs on shuttle.
Breaking
PERFORMANCE PROBLEMSCHART
burrs off
and fabric, completely.
burrs
completely,
plate.
threads
back under
presser foot
before
beginning
Disassemble and clean shuttle, Clean bobbin case and shuttle.
27
SECTION 5.
CAREFORYOURMACHINE
Replacingthe Light Bulb
Cleaningthe Machine To insure that
your
machine
The feed dogs and shuttle
operates
at _ts best, you need to keep the essential
race areas can attract
dust and lint.
Your
machine
parts clean can become
at all times. slugg=sh or knock
loudly
if a thread
is caught. Check
and clean those areas about
tf you sew frequently,
clean more
every three
months
under
normal
use.
often.
J
Clean the Feed Dogs
1.
Unplug the face cover.
CAUTION!
machine
The
Ifght
HOT. fingers handle
and open the
bulb
wilf
be
Protect
your
when
you
Follow
these directions:
it. Unplug
2.
Push bulb
the
buib
up
counter-c]ockwise
and
turn to
the
remove
it. 3,
28
Put the new butb in by pushing it up and turning it clockwise.
the
presser foot
machine.
Remove
and needle.
Using
a
needle
plate.
screw
driver,
2,
Use a lint dogs.
remove
brush
and clean the feed
3.
Replace
needle pfate
into pos_t=on_
SECTION
o Clean the Shuttle
Race
This
kept
area must
be
about every three
free
of
dust,
lint
and occasional
tangled
Clean
thread.
the shuttle
5.
CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE
race area
months.
Center pin ot the shuttle
Shuttle
driver Lever
Lever Lever_
Shuttle
Race
L
Pomted
(Oil here}
Shuttle Cover
case
To Clean the Shuttle 1.
2.
3.
Raise
the
To Replace Shuttle Assembly:
Area:
needle
point
and remove
Push
shuttle
bar
to
its highest
the bobbin
race
levers
aside.
race cover and take shuttle the
with
out. a
2.
of oil
the
and
shuttle
over-oil.
Hold
on the center shuttle
race.
pm of
shuttle
to form
lint
wili
Put a drop
shuttle is forming
race half
as illustrated
so that
moon
left
on the
shuttle
side of the
machine.
brush. 4.
Posmon driver
Lift
Clean
race
1.
case.
shuttle
shuttle
Race
3,
by center
a haft moon
pin and position
shuttle
on the right
side,
Pointed
cover
place
over
so as hook
be on the bottom,
Place
shuttle
race
into
shuttle
assembly.
Do not 4.
Snap the levers back
into
the original
position.
29
SECTION
5.
CARE FOR YOUR
MACHINE
Oiling the Machine Oi]
the
machine
frequently, sewing
machine
Kenmore NOTE:
•
m all
oi] the oil.
sewing Unp]ug
areas shown
machine
under
One or two
machine
on this the top
drops
oil is available
the machine
before
page at
cover
least
about
of oil is suffiment. at your
oiling.
once
every
a year;
three
Remove
needle
the machine
In case machine
excess oil, otherwise
nearest Sears retail
Remove
otherwise
months,
can become
sluggish
or will
Is not used for an extended
knock
time,
Ioud]y_
oil it before
If you sewing.
use the
machine
Use good
quality
it may stain fabric.
store.
and put needle
bar in full
down
position.
Oil behind the Face Cover Plate and under the Arm Cover Plate
e
Oil the Underside
plate
/Armcover Face cover
plate
!
Shuttle
Open
face cover
plate
andlor
remove
arm cover
plate
by loosening
up top
screw
to
oil
points
Open
the
in illustration.
the
Use only
remove
3O
a drop of oil; do not over-oil.
left
shuttle s_de of
bottom
cover
cover the cover.
by pulling
cover.
Tilt
Oi] points
down the
the embossed
machine
m illustration.
head
part on back
and
PARTS LIST "_
1
2
4
5
All
parts listed
herein
WHEN ORDERING INFORMATION:
may be ordered
REPAIR
from
PARTS,
I. PART NUMBER 3. MODEL NUMBER
any Sears s_ore or service
ALWAYS
Ref. No,
9
15
/
12
FOLLOWING
your order will be electronically Center for expedited handling.
Part No.
Description
10 1 2 3 4 5
11
THE
2, PART DESCRIPTION 4. NAME OF ITEM
If the parts you need are not stocked locally, transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution
6
GIVE
center,
13
14
16
19
6 7 8 9 10 11 t2 13 14 15 16 17 18 t9
* These items instructions
47 6510 *6862 1939 813404013 655t 6552 6553 6554 652508002 650802003 735503007 "6870 593401008 "6757 135 *6864 6797 "802424O04 820832005 41669 *6889 _35801008
are not furnished above,
Shuttle Bobbin Bobbin
case box with
10 bobbins
Bobbin winder rubber ring No, 11 Stretch fabric needles No. ! 1 Single needles {ORG) No. 14 Single needles {RED) No, 16 Single needles !PUR) No. 18 Single needles (GRN} Needle clamp with screw Straight stitch foot Standard zigzag foot Satin stitch foot
{BLU}
Zipper foot Zipper foot Thumb screw Needle threader Light bulb Lint brush Large screw driver Small screw driver Oit and lint brush Darning
with
plate
the machine.but
may be ordered
per
31
INDEX
A
H
Accessory storage box ............... Arm cover plate .................
2, 6 3, 30
S
Hand wheel ...................
3,44
I B
Invisible zipper ..............
Bar tacking ............... Basic zigzag ................... Blind hemming ................... Bobbin ................... Bobbin case ............ Bobbin thread ..............
19 18 21 3, 8_9, 31 8_9, 29, 31 11_I 2
Bobbin winding ................ Bobbin winding tension disc .......... Bobbin winding spindle ............ Box stitching ..................
8_9 2, 9 2, 9 25
C Cabinet
.......................
2
Carrying handle ............ Changing needle ................. Changing presser foot ............... Cleaning feed dogs and shuttle race Clutch knob ................ Cording ...................... Cornering guide ...............
3 6 6 ,
_ 28"29 3, 8, 9 24 15
24
L Lace work
...................
22
Large screw driver .............. Light and power switch .......... Light bulb _ , _,............... Lint brush ...................
3, 3t 3_4 4, 28, 31 3I
Satin Satin
stitch stitch
Monogramming
................
19
N Needle .............. Needle clamp screw ............. Needle plate .................. Needle, thread and fabric
3, 6_7, 31 3, 6, 31
chart
.......
2, 28 7
O Oiling ................... Overcasting stitch ...............
30 20
31 18
Seam guides ..................... Sewing light .................... Shell stitching .................... Shuttle .................. Shuttle cover ................... Shuttle race ................... Small screw driver ............. Spool Stitch
15 4 25 29, 31 2, 8 29 3, 31
pm ................. selector ................
Straight Straight
M
foot ................ .................
stitch stitch
............... foot .......
2, 5 2, 13 t 5_1.6 3, 15_16, 31
T Thread
cutter
Thread Thread Thread
guide ................ take-up lever ............. tensions ...............
.................
2, 5 2, 10 2, 10 12_!3
Three-step zigzag ............ Topstitching ................... Top thread ................. Top thread tension ............ Top thread tension control .......... Turn
a square
corner
20 16 10_13 12_13 2
..............
15
D Z
P
Darning Darning
............ plate ...........
3, 16_17,
17 3t
E Extension tabie
.............
F Fabric, needle and thread chart Face cover plate ................ Feed dogs ..................... Foot control .................. Free arm sewing ...................
32
2, 6
Parts list
...................
Performance problems chart Plug connector ............. Portable case ................... Power switch ..................... Presser foot ..................... Presser foot
........
7 2, 30 28 3_4 6
lever
31 .......
..............
26_27 3_4 2 4 3 3, 5
R Replacing bobbin case ............ Reverse stitch control .............
8_9 2, t4
Zigzag foot ........ 15_16, Zigzag stitches .......... Zipper application ........... Zipper foot ............
18"-'22,
25, 31 18_20 23"24 3, 23_24, 31
WARRANTY
()
FULL
25*YEAR
WARRANTY
For 25 years from in the mechanica_
FULL For
the date of purchase, components
TWO YEAR two
appear
years _n the
ON SEWING
the
e_ectrica_
Sears will,
of the sewing
WARRANTY
from
date
MACHINE
free of charge,
machine
purchase,
equipment
of
the
EQUIPMENT
Sears will, sewing
repair
defects
m materia_
or Workmanship
which
appear
#
which
_-
head,
ON ELECTRICAL of
HEAD
free
machine,
OF SEWING
of charge, including
repmr
MACHINE defects
e]ectromc
in mater_al
components,
or workmanship
motor,
wiring,
switch
and
_
speed control+ -
FULL
90-DAY
WARRANTY
For 90 days from necessary for proper
WARRANTY SERVICE CENTER!DEPARTMENT
This warranty
ON ALL
the date operation
PARTS
AND
MECHANICAL
of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, replace any parts of the sewing machine, except for normal maintenance.
IS AVAILABLE BY RETURNING IN THE UNITED STATES.
gives you specific
ADJUSTMENTS
THE
SEWING
MACHINE
and
TO THE
prowde
mechanical
serwce #
NEAREST
SEARS
SERVICE #
legal r_ghts, and you may also have other rights which
vary from
state to state.
€
#
SEARS,
ROEBUCK
AND
CO., Dept.
698/73tA,
Sears Tower,
Chicago,
IL 60684
_) #
SEWING MACHINE Now
that
you
or service,
have purchased
s_mply
contact
your
your
Kenmore
nearest
Sewing
Sears Service
Machine, Center.
should
a need ever exist
Be sure to provide
for repmr
all pertinent
parts
facts when
you call or vtsit. The model your
WHEN *MODEL
If
number
Sewing
the
Repair
ORDERING NUMBER
parts
of
Machine,
you
your
Sewing
Machine
REPAI *NAME
need
Parts Distribution
R PARTS, OF
are not Center
ITEM
stocked
ALWAYS
SEARS
PARTS_
SOURCE
be shown
GIVE
on your
THE
*PART
DESCRIPTION
nomenclature
plate
on the back of
locally0
your
order
FOLLOWING
will
INFORMATION:
be electronically
transmitted
to a Sears
for handling.
SEARS, ROEBUCK
PBRTIt
will
See page 3 for location.
AND CO., Chicago, IL60684 U.S.A.
385
735800100
INSTRUCTION O"TY_ i_ PRINTED
S-385
BOOK IN
TAIWAF
Printed
in Taiwan
Part No, 735800100
SWA/RS SEWING MACHINE MODELS 385.
1158180
or
385.
1168180
SEARS, ROEBUCK
AND CO.
Dear Customer:
You
have just
invested
_n a very
please pause for a moment and care for your
Specific
instructions
are given
the best sewing
Advice
on the operation
the model
zigzag sewing
results
on threading, and avoid
and serial number
tension
Before
which
using your
contains
machine
about
new Kenmore
instructions
when
you
Record
_n space of
are located
thls
prowded appliance.
on the
cleamng,
service expense
is always
your
Kenmore
number
adjustments,
unnecessary
and care of your
if you have questions
number
machine.
read this book{et
on how
machine, to operate
machine.
obtain
Please remember,
fine
and carefully
available
machine
oiling,
etc. This will
for conditions
at your
or need parts
beyond
nearest
Sewing Machine below
the
The model
nomenclature
mode_ number
number
and
and serial
plate,
as identified
Serial
No.
serial
number
on Page 3 of
this booklet.
Model
No. 385.
Retain
these numbers
THIS
MODEL
for future
IS A CENTER
reference.
NEEDLE,
LOW
BAR
SEWING
Sears Retaif
and service,
inquire.
MACHINE.
help you
our control.
always
Store.
mention
TABLE
SECTION
1.
KNOW
YOUR
MACHINE
A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available ............ Locate and Tdentify the Parts ................. |dentify the Accessories .................... SECTION
2.
PREPARE
YOUR
MACHINE
FOR
the Presser Foot Lever Cutter ...........................
3.
LEARN
THE
4_6 .....
4 4 5 5 5
Table
_, ,
6 6 6
Turn a Square Corner ...................... Use the Darning Plate ................ Topstltching ..................... Left Needle Position ....................
SECTION
4
6 7 7
SECTION
5.
8
15_16 15 15 15 16 16 16
CARE
.............. ............. CHART
..................
FOR YOUR
26_27
MACHINE
Clean the Feed Dogs ..................... Clean the Shuttle Race .............. Oiling the Machine ....................... • Oil behind the Face Cover Plate and under Arm Cover Plate ...................... • Oil the Underside .......................
28 28_29
t
8_9 9 I 0_11 10 11 t2_13 t3 14 t4
to Do When
PROBLEMS
17 18_20 18 18 19 19 20 20 21 22 23_24 25 25
Replacing the Light Bulb ................. Cleaning the Machine ..................
8_9 .....
PERFORMANCE What
6_7
STITCHES
Straight Stitches ................... •Stratght Stitch ................... • Use the Seam Guides ................... • • • •
3
To Change Your Needle .................. Cheek Your Needle .... ,, , ................. Fabric, Needle and Thread Chart ................
Prepare the Bobbin ................... s To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine a Wind the Bobbin .................... o |nsert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case .......... Prepare Your Top Thread .................. • Thread Your Needle .................. • Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread ............... Adjust the Top Thread Tension ............. Stitch Selector .......................... Reverse Stitch Control ....................... Starting To Sew ..................... SECTION
2_3
.................
• Free Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension • Accessory Storage Box .................. • Change the Presser Foot .................... Choose Your Needle and Thread ............. • • •
Darning ............................. Zigzag Stitches ..................... • Basic Zigzag ....................... • Satin Stitch ....................... • Monogramming .................... • Bar Tacking ........................ Overcasting Stitch ....................... • Three*Step Zigzag .................... Blind Hemming .......................... Lace Work .............................. Sew in a Zipper ......................... Shell Stitching (Mode_ 11681 only) Box Stitching (Model 11681 only)
2
SEWING
Set Up the Machine ...................... • Plug in the Machine and Sw_tch on the Power • Foot Controf Use ...................... • Setting Spool Pin ........................ • Adjust m Thread
OFCONTENTS
PARTS
LIST
................................
INDEX
..................................
28 29 30 the 30 30 3t 32
SECTION
1.
KNOW YOUR
MACHINE Locate and Identify
A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available A full nearest
line
of sewing
Sears
retail
cabinets store
or
are available
at your
through
general
our
catalog. Another your where.
the Parts
Upper
Take-up Lever optuon Kenmore
_ •
buy a Carrying
goes anywhere,
Thread
Thread
Gutde
Spool
Pin
Case . • , then
can be stored
anyBobbin Winding Tension Disc
Top
Thread
Face Cover
Tension
Bobbin
W_nding
Spindle
\
Control
Plate
Thread
Cutter
Needle
Plate
Reverse
Shuttle
on Extensi (Accessory Table storage
box)
Cover
Stitch
Control
Stitch
Selector
SECTION
ArmCover Plate
Carrying
Identify
Handle
1.
KNOW YOUR MACHINE
the Accessories
Hand Wheel
Presser Foot Auto
Clutch
Lever
Knob
_Large
screw driver
Bobbin
Light and Power SwiIch
f Free Arm Small
Plug
Connector
Nomenclature
Ptate
Needle set
Zippertoot
Foot
Needle
;Presser Foot
Control
C_amp Screw
Darning
p_
screw
driver
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
YOUR
MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine Plugin the Machineand Switch on the Power
Power
suppiy
•
Foot Control
Use
plug
Foot
Power sw_tch Plug connecto[
4.
Push the
light
on the power Machine p _ug
SAFETY
and power and sewing
%
switch
to turn
light.
Before inserting the machine, be sure the
plug power
into your switch is
OFF_
1,
Check Volt
2.
Insert plug
your
outlet
to be sure it is a 110 to 120
AC outlet, the
To
FEATURE:
Insert
control
increase
speed,
the ball of your Your
machine
wifl
light]power
switch
interrupted
or
light/power
swttch
children,
not
operate
is turned
stop
sewing, to
unless
on. turn
prevent
the
)f you are off
the
injury
to
To
plug
as shown.
into
the
It will
decrease
gently
speed,
supply
your
NOTE:
control
_s sensitive
The
foot
will
increase
or
foot
decrease
speed
only
regulate
your
p_ug into the outlet.
press down
release
three-prong one
speed
at
with
foot_
on
fit
the
pres-
sure slightly,
your the power
regulates
you sew.
Practice
way, 3,
foot
sewing
machine
connector,
The which
J
NOTE:
control
and your
immediately.
a scrap sewing
taste and needs.
of
fabric
to
speed
to
SECTION
Setting Spoot
Pin
=
Adjust
the Presser Foot
Lever
=
2.
Thread
PREPARE
YOUR
MACHINE
Cutter
Normal up posJlJon High posllton
pos_t_or
P position
...........
The spool
pin
of
m order
thread
is used for holding to
feed
the spool
thread
to
the
machine. To use, purl for storage.
The
spool
pro.
Push down
Foot
Lever
raises
and
lowers
your
presser foot. You
up the
J
Presser
can raise it about
up position to
help
foot.
you
for
1/4"
easy removal
place
heavy
higher
than the normal
of the presser foot
fabrics
under
the
or
presser
You
don't
need a pmr of smssors to cut the
thread
after
handy
thread
Puif before
the
you finish
threads
starting
sewing.
Just
use the
several
inches
cutter. to
_engthen
the next seam.
FOR SEWING
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
YOUR
MACHINE
FOR SEWING Choose
Set Up the Machine (Continued) =
Free-Arm
Sewing:
Extension
Table
the Removable
t,
Accessory
=
Storage Box
•
Change the Presser Foot
Your
Needle
and Thread
To Change Your Needle
! Flat side away from you To Remove
the Extension
(for free-arm t.
2.
Grip
Table
the
tabte
with
your
and thumb,
as shown,
Pull gently
to the left.
table
The
sewing)
will
index
finger
snap out.
of
the
accessory
open toward
Sewtng
accessories
ently The extension
lid
box lifts
located
storage
you. are
in the box.
convem-
Use the correct presser foot for the stitch you wish to sew. To
change
feet,
raise the
highest
the Extension
(for flat-bed t,
Table
screw,
sewing)
Insert
the
tab
insert and
the
pin
into
their
catches. 2,
With gently
Tighten large
your
thumb
snap in.
and
index
finger,
various presser
position
presser foot Loosen
To Attach
the
by
the
1.
thumb
the proper
2.
3.
screw
using
screw
driver
to
is secure,
the make
needle by
to
the
its
highest
hand
wheel
you,
the
needle
it toward
Remove
bar
turning
the
clamp
screw
bv
you.
needle
by pulling
it down-
ward.
foot,
the bottom.
the
certain the foot
Loosen turning
lever.
choose
the
toward
bar to its lifting
Raise position
presser
the presser foot from
NOTE:
Insert
the
clamp
with
new
4.
Push the needle
5.
Tighten with
the the
accessory
needle
into
the
the flat side away
you.
up as far as it will go.
needle
large box.
needle
from
clamp
screw
screwdriver
from
firmly your
SECTION
Fabric,
Needle
2.
PREPARE YOUR
and Thread
MACHINE
Chart NEEDLE SiZE AND COLOR
FABRIC
FOR SEWING
THREAD
SIZE
........................
L_ghtwmght: Batiste, D imltv, Chiffon, Silks. Fine Lace, Organza, Crepe,
Taffeta,
11-ORANGE
Voile,
needtes: Blue [11) Orange
......
for stretch
(1 1 ) ......
Red (14)
for
(16)
.......
for
Medium Heavy Weight: Corduroy, Oen_rn, Wool,
fabrics.
medium
weight Purple
or
Sailcloth,
medium-heavy
Gabard{ne,
fabrics.
and decorative
weight
topstitching
(This
thread
(18)
......
for
needle
on these has a larger
hofe for thicker
heavy
decorative
topstltching
weight
fabrics
and
on
these
top-stitching
fabrics. Replacement
Kenmore
needles
are available
at your
nearest
Sears
stores. =
Check
1.
Look
2.
A
Your
Cotton
50 Mercerized Cotton Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap SHk A
Mercerized Heavy.Du ty Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Silk A Heavy Duty Mercerized
Heavy Weight: Coatings, Upholstery Cotton Duck, Heavy Twills, Canvas
1B-GREEN
Decorative top-stitching on all types Of fabric
16-PURPLE 18-GREEN
Stretch Fabric: Polyester Double Kmts, Nylon Tricot, Jersey, Stretch Terry, Spandex_ Cire Tricot
11-BLUE (STRETCH FABRIC NEEDLE)
Cotton Polyester
Core!Cotton
Wrap Si_k A Buttonhole IUse
as tOp
Twist thread
only)
Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap 50 Mercerized Cotton
Needle
for barbed
damaged
kmts,
Flannel,
Velvets_
fabrics
thread,) Green
Wool
Mercerized
50 Mercerized Cotton 14-R E D or 1B-PURPLE
Leather
medium-heavy
fabrics,
14-RED
fabrics.
for lightweight
.....
Medium We}ght: Cotton, Cotton Blends, Percafe, Gingham, Shantung, Pique, Seersucker, Satin, Knits, Vinyl Su_tmgs, Linen_ Wool Crape, Leather
Fine
Si}k A
Organdy
Yourchoiceof needle andthreaddepends onthefabricyouare sewing. Inyourneedle envelope, you will find the following color-coded
I
Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap
or blunt
needle
can
fine silks and silk-like
point. cause
permanent
snags
or runs
m
fabrics.
Always buy a good quality thread. It should resist tangling and be strong, smooth and consistent in thickness, 7
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
YOUR MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Prepare the Bobbin •
To Remove
= Wind the Bobbin
the Bobbin Case from the Machine
Release
knob
toward
you
moving Remove
the
the
machine
left,
Open
extension by the
the
shuttle
cover
by
down
the left
side of the cover,
Rinse needle
to
from
it to
pulling
by rotating
the
table
pulling
embossed
its highest
hand wheel
part on
posit_on
toward
you,
To
case from
shut-
tie, pull open
remove
latch
of
case.
Pull
case
straight
bobbin
shuttle.
bobbin
bobbin
out
of
clutch
clutch
bobbin,
by
inside
turning
the hand
the wheel
to stop the needle from
while
you
winding
the
SECTION
= Wind the Bobbin
2.
PREPARE
YOUR MACHINE
FOR SEWING
(Continued)
f
7 k Draw bobbin
thread
from
wmd;ng
spool
tension
through
Pull
end
bobbin
disc as shown.
of
thread
through
hole
in
Place
as shown.
bobbin
spindle from
until
•
Insert the Bobbin
into the Bobbin
with the
bobbin
onto
top
winding it clicks.
thread,
start
slightly
filled,
bobbin
end
of
of
the
thread
coming
bobbin.
spindle Holding
machine.
to
the
onto When
snip off
Wind
winding
Push
thread bobbin
Push
lef_ and clip
right
end
until
winder
winding thread.
stops. spindle
Remove
Turn
clutch
knob
away
of
while
holding
hand
wheel
is
sewing
bobbin
to
the
bobbin.
from for
you
normal
operation.
end of thread.
Case
(-
::ii! ¸¸/
Place making w_se bobbin
bobbin
,
in
bobbin
sure thread and
ts
as shown.
case
feeds clock-
coming
from
Pull thread as shown.
through
slot
of case
under
Pull
thread
spring
and through
as shown
above.
inches of thread
teoslon
the opening Pull 3 to 4
from
bobbin.
Holding case latch.
into
latch
open,
shuttle
and
position release
Case
should
when
latch
lock
into
is released.
place
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
YOUR MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Prepare Your Top Thread ,, Thread Your Needle
Raise take-up
lever to its highest position
Raise presser foot Place spool
The numbered
steps
above
follow
loops
lines
show
places
and then is pulled
t_ght.
where
Draw
2,
While
holding
check
spring holder.
3.
Firmly
draw thread
4.
Draw thread
5.
Thread
the numbers
the
thread
NOTE:
1o
pin as shown,
1.
on the illustrations, Dotted
on spool thread
You
by turning
hand
wheel toward
you.
lever.
into
thread
thread
down
needle from may want
guide near
with
using both
spool,
up and through and slip tt into front
thread
draw
coming
from
the back
of the spool.
hands, thread
take-up
down
lever from
needle bar thread
into
the tension
right
to left.
area and
then
guide.
to back.
to cut the end of thread
with
sharp scissors for easier needle threading.
around
the
SECTION
Pick Up Your
2.
PREPARE
YOUR MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Bobbin Thread
! Raise
presser
thread
loosely
handwheeL
foot
iever.
Ho|d
in left hand
toward
top
2_
and rotate
Bring
bobbin
thread
up
top thread,
by
pulling
3.
Pull
both
back
of
threads the
to 6 inches of thread
you one comptete
under
presser
foot,
and
to the
leaving
4
clear.
turn.
If you cannot
pick
up bobbin
1.
Is needle threaded
2,
ls thread
3.
Are 3 to 4 inches
4.
Is thread
5.
Is bobbin
6.
ls the machine
tangled
from
from
front
around
steps gtven above, then
check:
to back?
coming
from
the shuttle?
tangled?
Lnstalled
threaded
by following
needle?
of thread
shuttle
properly
thread
in the bobbin
according
case?
to the instructions?
11
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
YOUR
MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Adjust the Top Thread Tension Choose Top
the Correct
The best tension
side ot fabric
will
depend
on;
the stiffness
and thickness
----
the number
of fabric
---
the type
Settmgrnark
Loosen
Tenslon:
of the fabric
layers
of stitch
f f
Top thread Tighten
fobbin thread
For Straight The
ideal
fabric, tf you
The top thread _stoo tight
The top thread is too loose.
straight
as shown look
gaps, that
o?&
Stitch stitch above,
at the
each stitch
When adjustmg
will
have threads
magnified
stitch,
front
is smooth
top thread
locked
between
the
two
layers
of
The top thread appears on the underside o| the
to show detail. and back,
you
will
notice
that
there
The bobbin thread appears on the upper surlace Ot the Jabric.
_abr_e,
are no
and even.
tension,
the higher
the number,
the tighter
the top
th read.
k,........
Tension The bottom
top
_s too loose: thread of the
of the stitch
12
will
Tension through
the
The
The bottom
side
the
shows fabric.
feel bumpy.
is too tight:
bobbin top
the stitch
thread
of the will
will
fabric.
come The
feel bumpy.
top
through s_de of
SECTION
2.
PREPARE Stitch
YOUR
MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Selector
For Zigzag Stitch In the correct
zigzag
of
the
fabric
below
and
top
for the correct
stitch,
the bobbin
threads
will
appearance.
show
threads
wilt
slightly
To match
this
not show on the top side on the
bottom
appearance,
adjust
side. your
Model
11681
See top
tension. Top tension
Top tension
Too Tight
Just Right
Too Loose f
Stitch
The Top side of Fabric
Top slde o| Fabric
Top s_de ot Fabric
stitch
stitch
selector
you select,
regular
types
side ot Fabric
Bottom
side of Fabric
Too Tight:
Too Loose:
Just Right:
--
--
Minimize the amount ot top thread visible on the bottom side ol tabric wtthout causing excessive puckering or causing the bobbin thread to show on the top stde, Results vary with labrlc_ thread and sew;ng conditions.
Corner ot each zigzag will pull together on the top side of tabr_cs,
The top thread will toop through bottom side of fabric and wit| be pulled ekmost together,
length
of stitches
NOTE:
To
or
needle
needle
is up
determines
the stitch
the for
by color.
are orange.
fabric and
width
stltches.
are designated
Stitches
avoid
only
for straight
Zigzag and Utility
adjusting
Bottom
not
Strmght,
your
side of Fabric
control
but also regulates
zigzag and stitch
The different
_ottom
W_"'""''i_
Selector//__
out
damage, of
fabric
be sure when
this control,
Model
11581
cl l,,, °4
13
SECTION 2.
PREPAREYOURMACHINEFORSEWING
Reverse Stitch Control
Starting To Sew Now
that
you are familiar
the machine, Below
1.
are some good
inspect
the
correct
size
for
2.
Before
Many
placing
to follow
fabric
of
the
be straight, and
thread
new
material
your
properly being
fabrics
Test
the
machine
thickness. 4, To reverse
stitch,
hold
down
this control
during
sewing. Release to sew forward
Fabric
should
needle
and the
when again.
5.
Adjust
on the
making
made
machine,
right
will
Do
not
of synthetic
on the point,
be afraid
blends
tend
to to
it should
change
dull
your
be the needle
the needles
more
of
see that
fabric
material
the ends of the
you
plan
foot
with
to
during
use,
and tension the
placed on the
bulk
have been drawn
the sewing
The fabric suitable
of the
5/8"
threads
should
to your
material
seam marking
of the first
3 or
be double
fabric.
to the left
of the
on the needle plate
at a slow
even speed,
The more
pressure
you put
on the foot
controf,
the faster
sew.
each seam by back tacking
7.
Always
finish
8.
Guide
When turning
for
seam,
Fasten
9.
provided
machine.
to sew:
Hold on to threads
the presser
6.
sewing
the fabric
the accessories
sewing
set and sharp
used.
for the length of stitch
edge of the
a simple
such a way that
14
on a scrap
be placed under
Run the machine the machtne
stitch
the machine
and with
Kenmore
fibers.
about 4 inches to the rear of the machine. 4, stitches of the seam. 3.
machine new
each time you sit down
made of natural
the
on your
to sew with
It should
the
than fabrics
the controls
to start
habits
needle,
frequently. easily
with
you are ready
at the beginning
each seam with
gently
with
the normal
the hand
your
feeding
wheel
and end of the seam.
the needle at its highest hand
m front
of the
point.
needle.
is altered.
manually,
always
turn
it toward
you.
Never
pull or hold the fabric
m
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Straight Stitches •
Straight
Use the Seam Guides
Stitch Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch
selector
jl! Top thread tension controt 2 to 6 The 1.
Raise the presser foot,
2.
Raise
the
needle
7.
to
its
3,
Place to
Stra=ght foot
Zigzag foot
want
highest 8.
posmon. the
edge of
a stitching
needle
the fabric
grade
plate
line
f5/8"
is
the
end of the seam, you to reverse
Raise the
presser
to
may
lock the st=tch. foot
wldth.
9,
guides to
The
on the
help
you
needle
plate
measure
seam
lines are I/8"
apart,
with
the 518" and 718 `° lines marked.
and remove
Turn
the fabric,
next
on
"At the
seam
are there
a Square Corner
Cut the threads,
most
common). 4.
Draw
the
threads
back and lower
towards
the
the presser foot. I
5.
Press the foot
6.
Hold
the fabric
guide
it
atong
loosely the
it feeds naturatlv.
Do
not
pull
it tight.
the
and gently
grade
that
force
g
control
fabric
line,
so
or try
to
...............
To turn fabric 1.
a square
from
stitching
and
tower
needle
by
turning
hand
toward
you
when
the fabrm
facing
you
lines
Raise the
guide,
the
fabric
the 5/8"' 3.
5/8"
J
the
edge:
Stop
cornering 2.
corner
Lower stitching
up
with
the wheel edge the
as shown.
presser
foot
and
turn
to
the
edge
with
line
seam guide, the
presser foot
and begin
in the new direction, 15
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Straight Stitches (Continued) o
Use the Darning
•
Plate
Topstitching
Left Needle
Position
Set the Machine Stitch
Stitch
Stitch
selector
selector
I Top thread tens=on control :2 to 6
Sometimes
when
to control
the fabric
The Darning so that
you
sew,
Plate covers
they do not
you
Here's How
want
yourseff.
touch
To put on the Darning
1.
the feed dogs
2.
the fabric.
Plate: holes
Darning
match
m the needle plate.
the
darning
holes
are slightly
the
these
to
the left
Fit
the
needle wilt
darning plate
plate
with
show
The feed dogs
through
the
darning
plate holes. Use the darning ways:
16
Darning
Accent two
plate
in the following
emphasizes
garment
edges flat
outer
(P. 1Z7)
and Its Uses
Topstitching your
plate p_ns into the
holes.
the
edge of
guide
the fabric
to
topstitchmg
The Stitch darning
Evenly edge
In
plate,
the 3 pros on the bottom. 2.
3,
the
holes
Position
edge of
right
fabric the
next
presser
Zigzag foot
in the
of center. 1.
the
foot.
The rectangular Plate
the presser foot.
Keep the to
Straight foot NOTE:
Lower
and
keeps
rows
of
or
from
©
this
row
of
the edge,
the
lines of
seams
and
Left
topst_tching
with
one
around
lapels or collars.
or the
Needle
control
while
stitching
difficult
NOTE:
blouses
edges of cuffs,
3/8"
along
an even
Use
and crisp. sutts
produce
Position
for
topstitching
or
edge
fabrics,
Use
only
foot
for
Sewing.
more
zigzag
presser
Left
Needle
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Darning
Set the Machine Stitch
Stitch
selector
II Top thread tension control t to 4
Here's How 1, No presser foot
Put
the
darning
plate
on
the
needle
plate
{see P, 16). 2. Darmn9
plate
Remove
presser
between
foot
and
embroidery
stretch
hoops
fabric
with
hole
centered. 3.
Draw
the
fabric
by holding
bobbin
one 'stitch
at
thread the top
the
spot
up
through
thread
and
where
you
the taking
wish
to
start darning. 4.
Lower
the
presser
bar
and
sew
at
a stow
speed. 5.
6.
Move
the fabric
back
and forth
you have covered
the darning
Turn
half
the
fabric
layer of stitching NOTE
:
If
your
turn
and
over the first fabric
slowly
Js
until
area. sew another layer.
thin
or
badly
damaged, use a separate piece of fabric under the hole to reinforce _t. 7.
When piatm
you finish
darning,
remove
the darning 17
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Zigzag Stitches •
Satin Stitch
Basic Zigzag
Set the Machine
Set the Machine Stitch
Stitch
Stitch selector
Stitch selector
Top thread tension control ! to 4
Top thread tension control 2 to 5
Here's
How
There
are many
stitch.
Consult
ways
to sew a zigzag
the specific
for detailed
directions.
Satin
p. 18,
variations Zigzag foot
Zigzag foot
Stitch
Monogramming Bar Tacking Overcasting Three-step
p. 19, p. 19, p. 20,
zigzag p. 20. The Stitch
and
The zigzag stitch _s one of the most common and most versatile stitches on
The Satin
stitch
your
machine.
be used to
stitch
for
The Stitch
and Its Uses
It
mending
and
used
decorate
to
out work
18
can
be
hemming, darning, with
a
utility
overcasting, it can also be trims
or as a decorative
and
stitch.
cut-
Its Uses
used decorative
ample,
stitch,
overcast
blankets,
and napkins}.
is a versatile but
and often it can also
a raw edge (for extinens,
tablecloths
SECTION
=
Monogramming
o
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Bar Tacking
Set the Machine Stitch
3.
Set the Machine
Stitch selector
Stitch
Top thread tension controi I to 4
Stitch selector
Top thread tension control I to 4
Here's How 1.
Set the same as satin
2.
Back
the
fabric
stitch.
with
paper
or
interfacing,
Zigzag foot
This
stitch
is similar
satin
stitch
and strain
to
Is used such
a very to
points
of
pockets
and straps on lingerie.
short
reinforce
as corners
or
Zigzag foot Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches.
3.
4.
Draw
the
with
tailor's
If using when
letters
on
the
fabric
chalk.
paper,
carefully
you have finished
remove
it
sewing.
!9
SECTION 3.
LEARNTHE STITCHES
ZigzagStitches(Continued) Overcasting
Stitch
Three-Step
Zigzag "%
Set the Machine Stitch
f
Set the Machine
Stitch selector
Stitch
Top thread tension control f to 4
Stitch selector
Top thread tension control 1 to 4
J
Helpful Start
Hints overcasting
raw corner r_ght
Zigzag foot
up
Seam Finishing about
of your
1/8"
seam.
inside the
at the edge, the fabric and
the
stitches
Place
If you start
will
will
bunch
the right
Zigzag foot
become
tang]ed.
_
The Stitch This
zigzag
garment
variation
is very
construction
raw edges of any sewing
and
usefu[
in finishing
project.
m
zigzag
zigzag and straight three-step
would has flatter
use
inside
hand side of the presser foot.
Guide
the
work
stitches
fall
at the edge of the fabric.
so the
right
hand
more
basic
strength,
than a regular
ly useful
is a combination
stitch,
zigzag
the
The three-step
You
may use
everywhere zigzag
you
stitch,
elasticity,
tt
and
is
zigzag,
zigzag stitch
is especial-
for:
-
mending
-
sewing
patches
smoothfy
and
Mending Position
securely.
2O
the presser foot be slightly
and Its Uses
The three-step
the
under
the edge will
J
The Stitch
and Its Uses
the fabric
so that
-
repairing
straight
-
finishing
seams,
tears,
the tear under the needle so
that the stitching will catch both sides.
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STfTCHES
Blind Hemming 1/4"
Sat the Machine Stitch
Stitch selector
Light Weight Fabric
Top thread tenston controt 1 to 4 Heavy Weight Fabrtc The stretch
blind
1.
Finish
2,
Measure,
NOTE:
hem wilt "gwe"
the raw edge of your turn
For tight
up your wetght
3.
Fold the materiaJ
4.
Ptace garment should
5.
After
NOTE:
hemming, The stretch
hem any way you desired.
fabrics,
(See Overcasting,
you
may need a double
p. 20)
ford.
side out) on the edge to be stitched,
presser foot
the fold press both blind
and stretch fabrics.
hem and pro.
!wrong
under
_ust catch
and is used for knit
in such a manner
that
as shown,
straight
stitches
leaving 1/4" wi|l
of the finished
be sewn on extended
hem edge showing. edge.
The zigzag stitch
of the garment, sides of the finished
hem stitch
hem.
a_so can be used for
The top side of the garment Lace Work,
will
show
only
the blind
stitches.
(See p. 22}
21
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Lace Work
Set the Machine Stitch
Stitch selector
Top thread tension controJ 1 to 4
Zigzag foot
Lace to
22
adds a fanciful,
blouses
and
femimne
lingerie.
and
pillows
become
when
trimmed
with
Turn
raw edge of
1/2",
Place
stitch
using
Trim
excess fabric
more
linens elegant
lace. fabric
under
face underneath stretch
touch
Table
blind
at least and
hem stitch.
close to stitching.
top-
SECTION 3.
LEARNTHESTITCHES
Sewin a Zipper Fabric Put
Preparation:
the
gether per
right and
Set the Machine
s_des of
sew to the
opening.
Use
the
the
fabric
to-
end of the zipreverse
to
lock
the stitches. Sew
the
selector tension
z_pper at
"
opening lt
,, and
with
stitch
top
thread
at "3"
Stitch
Zipper
teeth
Stitch selector
If,',
Zipper
tape
Top thread tension control 3 to 6
4.
To Sew: 1.
Fold
back
of
2.
Turn
the _eft seam allowance
under
the
right
a 1/8"
seam allow-
5,
Lower side
P{ace the zipper t/8"
fold
fold,
and pin
teeth
next
to the
bottom
the
on the right of
the
z_pper
need]e p_erces the fold
and the z=pper tape,
in place, 6,
Top
on the left side
the z=pper foot
at the
so that 3.
side of the zipper,
foot
of the needle.
ance to form
tabrlc
left
set the zipper
as shown. Zipper foot
To sew the
edge ol _abrlc
Sew through
the fold
per
the
tape
slider 7,
Lower
to
point
and the zipwhere
the
begins. the
needle
to hold
the fab-
ric and raise the presser foot,
23
SECTION
3.
Sew in a Zipper
LEARN
THE STITCHES
(Continued)
8.
Open the zipper,
9.
Lower
10.
the presser
foot
and stitch
Close
the
z_pper
and
fabric
right
side up.
turn
the
11.
the rest of the seam, 12.
To sew the right
side of the needle.
Stitch
INVISIBLE
ZIPPER
AND t
CORDING INVISIBLE Adjust
ZIPPER
the
the
center
the
toot
Follow
ructions,
sewing
ho_e ms riding
shown.
sewing
_oot
seam
the
ot
needle
the on
_he
After
through
so
toot the
Z_pper
zipper by
_s sewing and
teeth
groove
the
manufacturer's
has been
shlftmg
one o_
through
foot
inserted, to
side
of
z_pper
as Inst-
fimsh position
sfde notch,
CORDING Foot can a_so be used to make cording for slipcovers etc. Cover a cord with a str_p ot b_as |eb_]c and sew as shown, NOTE: Use "Low Bar Sewing (6757) for "invJsibJe which can be obtained
24
Machine ZIPPER FOOT" z_pper" and "cording", at any Sears reta_! store.
Turn
the
slde of
set
tom 13.
right
per,
across
z_pper
and
the
zip-
on
the
foot
the
bot-
corner
and continue
to
guide
the
teeth,
as shown.
St*tch
through
z_pper tape.
toot
the
z_pper
about
2"
from
Lower
the
needle
Remove open
fabric
and
nght
of
17.
Lower
the
basting
eveR,
the
fabric
foot. stitches
and
the zipper. the foot
and stitch
of the seam. Make the
the
into
and raise the presser 16.
along
Stop
the z_pper. 15.
below
of the zipper. the
t4.
the rest
sure the fold
is
SECTION Box Stitching
Shell Stitching (Model 11681 only) .......
Set the Machine Stitch
F
THE STITCHES
(Model 11681 only)
Stitch
,
LEARN
Set the Machine
Stitch selector
Top thread tens=on control 3 to 9
3,
Stitch selector
Top thread tension control ! to 4
......
J
Here's How 1.
Use this
For best effect: --
you may need to tighten top thread
-
Zigzag foot
allow clear fabric
2.
If you
sew
You The Stitch
and Its Uses
The Shell
Stitch
blind
hem over
rows
ot
shell
soft
is formed folded
stitching
by sewing
the
fabric.
wovens
the
slightly.
needle
to
join
heavy
weight
to
just
it z=gzags,
rows
of shelt stitches,
1/2" Stitch
Zigzag foot
Overlap
two
use this
stitch
raw
edges together
to join
and
them.
edge of the
when
can sew She]] silky
tension
the folded
space the rows
stitch
interlining.
apart. on knits
or
in any direction.
a
Several
are called
shell
tucks. Shell
stitching
can
be used
hems, sleeve and neck Shefi
tucking
scalloped
can
tucks
be used on
to
finish
to
create
opentngs.
blouses
and
lingerie.
25
SECTION 4.
PERFORMANCE PROBLEMSCHART
Whatto DoWhen PROBLEM
PROBABLE Incorrect
Choose correct s_ze needle for thread and fabric. Rethread machine. tension.
Bunching
Needle
of Thread
thread tension(s),
very sheer or very soft,
needle
Reset presser
Upper and lower threads not drawn back under presser foot before starting seam.
Using two different sizes or kinds Bent or blunt needle. Loose presser foot.
Replace
plate, or polish off
burrs
Do not pullfabric; guide it gently, Choose correct size needle for thread Reset needle.
Incorrect setting of needle. Loose presser foot.
Fabric
26
plate.
Pulling fabric. Incorrect size needle.
Incorrect Puckering
Tighten upper thread tension. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently. Reset presser foot. Rewind bobbin.
Pulling fabric. Loose presser foot. Unevenly wound bobbin. Nicks or burrs at hole of needle
Breaking
CORRECTION
size needle.
Improper threading. Loose upper thread
Irregular Stitches
CAUSE
and fabric.
foot.
When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under and back of presser foot about 4" and hold unti_ a few stitchs are formed. Reset thread
of thread.
completely.
tension(s).
Upper thread and bobbin thread Insert new needle, Reset presser foot, Use underlay of tissue paper.
should
be same size and kind.
SECTION 4.
PROBLEM
Skipping
Breaking
PROBABLE
Stitches
Upper
Thread
CAUSE
Choose correct size needle for thread Insert new needle.
Incorrect setting of needle. Tight upper thread tension.
Reset needle, Loosen upper
Starting to stitch too fast. Improper threading. Tight upper thread tension. Incorrect size needle.
Start to stitch at a medium Rethread machine.
Nicks
Fabric
Machine
Bobbin
Thread
not Moving
Jamming
Noise
or burrs
at hole of needle plate.
thread
speed.
Loosen upper thread tension. Choose correct size needle for thread Insert new needle. Replace
shuttle,
Replace
needle plate,
or polish
off
or polish
Check bobbin case threading. Clean bobbin case and shuttle.
Darning
Remove
plate knotted
Thread caught Lint in bobbin
in place. under
fabric.
in shuttle. case or shuttle.
darning
Place both to stitch.
and fabric,
tension.
Improper bobbin case threading. Lint in bobbin case or shuttle.
Thread
Knocking
CORRECTION
Incorrect _ize needle, Bent or blunt needle.
Sharp eye in needle. Nicks or burrs on shuttle.
Breaking
PERFORMANCE PROBLEMSCHART
burrs off
and fabric, completely.
burrs
completely,
plate.
threads
back under
presser foot
before
beginning
Disassemble and clean shuttle, Clean bobbin case and shuttle.
27
SECTION 5.
CAREFORYOURMACHINE
Replacingthe Light Bulb
Cleaningthe Machine To insure that
your
machine
The feed dogs and shuttle
operates
at _ts best, you need to keep the essential
race areas can attract
dust and lint.
Your
machine
parts clean can become
at all times. slugg=sh or knock
loudly
if a thread
is caught. Check
and clean those areas about
tf you sew frequently,
clean more
every three
months
under
normal
use.
often.
J
Clean the Feed Dogs
1.
Unplug the face cover.
CAUTION!
machine
The
Ifght
HOT. fingers handle
and open the
bulb
wilf
be
Protect
your
when
you
Follow
these directions:
it. Unplug
2.
Push bulb
the
buib
up
counter-c]ockwise
and
turn to
the
remove
it. 3,
28
Put the new butb in by pushing it up and turning it clockwise.
the
presser foot
machine.
Remove
and needle.
Using
a
needle
plate.
screw
driver,
2,
Use a lint dogs.
remove
brush
and clean the feed
3.
Replace
needle pfate
into pos_t=on_
SECTION
o Clean the Shuttle
Race
This
kept
area must
be
about every three
free
of
dust,
lint
and occasional
tangled
Clean
thread.
the shuttle
5.
CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE
race area
months.
Center pin ot the shuttle
Shuttle
driver Lever
Lever Lever_
Shuttle
Race
L
Pomted
(Oil here}
Shuttle Cover
case
To Clean the Shuttle 1.
2.
3.
Raise
the
To Replace Shuttle Assembly:
Area:
needle
point
and remove
Push
shuttle
bar
to
its highest
the bobbin
race
levers
aside.
race cover and take shuttle the
with
out. a
2.
of oil
the
and
shuttle
over-oil.
Hold
on the center shuttle
race.
pm of
shuttle
to form
lint
wili
Put a drop
shuttle is forming
race half
as illustrated
so that
moon
left
on the
shuttle
side of the
machine.
brush. 4.
Posmon driver
Lift
Clean
race
1.
case.
shuttle
shuttle
Race
3,
by center
a haft moon
pin and position
shuttle
on the right
side,
Pointed
cover
place
over
so as hook
be on the bottom,
Place
shuttle
race
into
shuttle
assembly.
Do not 4.
Snap the levers back
into
the original
position.
29
SECTION
5.
CARE FOR YOUR
MACHINE
Oiling the Machine Oi]
the
machine
frequently, sewing
machine
Kenmore NOTE:
•
m all
oi] the oil.
sewing Unp]ug
areas shown
machine
under
One or two
machine
on this the top
drops
oil is available
the machine
before
page at
cover
least
about
of oil is suffiment. at your
oiling.
once
every
a year;
three
Remove
needle
the machine
In case machine
excess oil, otherwise
nearest Sears retail
Remove
otherwise
months,
can become
sluggish
or will
Is not used for an extended
knock
time,
Ioud]y_
oil it before
If you sewing.
use the
machine
Use good
quality
it may stain fabric.
store.
and put needle
bar in full
down
position.
Oil behind the Face Cover Plate and under the Arm Cover Plate
e
Oil the Underside
plate
/Armcover Face cover
plate
!
Shuttle
Open
face cover
plate
andlor
remove
arm cover
plate
by loosening
up top
screw
to
oil
points
Open
the
in illustration.
the
Use only
remove
3O
a drop of oil; do not over-oil.
left
shuttle s_de of
bottom
cover
cover the cover.
by pulling
cover.
Tilt
Oi] points
down the
the embossed
machine
m illustration.
head
part on back
and
PARTS LIST "_
1
2
4
5
All
parts listed
herein
WHEN ORDERING INFORMATION:
may be ordered
REPAIR
from
PARTS,
I. PART NUMBER 3. MODEL NUMBER
any Sears s_ore or service
ALWAYS
Ref. No,
9
15
/
12
FOLLOWING
your order will be electronically Center for expedited handling.
Part No.
Description
10 1 2 3 4 5
11
THE
2, PART DESCRIPTION 4. NAME OF ITEM
If the parts you need are not stocked locally, transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution
6
GIVE
center,
13
14
16
19
6 7 8 9 10 11 t2 13 14 15 16 17 18 t9
* These items instructions
47 6510 *6862 1939 813404013 655t 6552 6553 6554 652508002 650802003 735503007 "6870 593401008 "6757 135 *6864 6797 "802424O04 820832005 41669 *6889 _35801008
are not furnished above,
Shuttle Bobbin Bobbin
case box with
10 bobbins
Bobbin winder rubber ring No, 11 Stretch fabric needles No. ! 1 Single needles {ORG) No. 14 Single needles {RED) No, 16 Single needles !PUR) No. 18 Single needles (GRN} Needle clamp with screw Straight stitch foot Standard zigzag foot Satin stitch foot
{BLU}
Zipper foot Zipper foot Thumb screw Needle threader Light bulb Lint brush Large screw driver Small screw driver Oit and lint brush Darning
with
plate
the machine.but
may be ordered
per
31
INDEX
A
H
Accessory storage box ............... Arm cover plate .................
2, 6 3, 30
S
Hand wheel ...................
3,44
I B
Invisible zipper ..............
Bar tacking ............... Basic zigzag ................... Blind hemming ................... Bobbin ................... Bobbin case ............ Bobbin thread ..............
19 18 21 3, 8_9, 31 8_9, 29, 31 11_I 2
Bobbin winding ................ Bobbin winding tension disc .......... Bobbin winding spindle ............ Box stitching ..................
8_9 2, 9 2, 9 25
C Cabinet
.......................
2
Carrying handle ............ Changing needle ................. Changing presser foot ............... Cleaning feed dogs and shuttle race Clutch knob ................ Cording ...................... Cornering guide ...............
3 6 6 ,
_ 28"29 3, 8, 9 24 15
24
L Lace work
...................
22
Large screw driver .............. Light and power switch .......... Light bulb _ , _,............... Lint brush ...................
3, 3t 3_4 4, 28, 31 3I
Satin Satin
stitch stitch
Monogramming
................
19
N Needle .............. Needle clamp screw ............. Needle plate .................. Needle, thread and fabric
3, 6_7, 31 3, 6, 31
chart
.......
2, 28 7
O Oiling ................... Overcasting stitch ...............
30 20
31 18
Seam guides ..................... Sewing light .................... Shell stitching .................... Shuttle .................. Shuttle cover ................... Shuttle race ................... Small screw driver ............. Spool Stitch
15 4 25 29, 31 2, 8 29 3, 31
pm ................. selector ................
Straight Straight
M
foot ................ .................
stitch stitch
............... foot .......
2, 5 2, 13 t 5_1.6 3, 15_16, 31
T Thread
cutter
Thread Thread Thread
guide ................ take-up lever ............. tensions ...............
.................
2, 5 2, 10 2, 10 12_!3
Three-step zigzag ............ Topstitching ................... Top thread ................. Top thread tension ............ Top thread tension control .......... Turn
a square
corner
20 16 10_13 12_13 2
..............
15
D Z
P
Darning Darning
............ plate ...........
3, 16_17,
17 3t
E Extension tabie
.............
F Fabric, needle and thread chart Face cover plate ................ Feed dogs ..................... Foot control .................. Free arm sewing ...................
32
2, 6
Parts list
...................
Performance problems chart Plug connector ............. Portable case ................... Power switch ..................... Presser foot ..................... Presser foot
........
7 2, 30 28 3_4 6
lever
31 .......
..............
26_27 3_4 2 4 3 3, 5
R Replacing bobbin case ............ Reverse stitch control .............
8_9 2, t4
Zigzag foot ........ 15_16, Zigzag stitches .......... Zipper application ........... Zipper foot ............
18"-'22,
25, 31 18_20 23"24 3, 23_24, 31
WARRANTY
()
FULL
25*YEAR
WARRANTY
For 25 years from in the mechanica_
FULL For
the date of purchase, components
TWO YEAR two
appear
years _n the
ON SEWING
the
e_ectrica_
Sears will,
of the sewing
WARRANTY
from
date
MACHINE
free of charge,
machine
purchase,
equipment
of
the
EQUIPMENT
Sears will, sewing
repair
defects
m materia_
or Workmanship
which
appear
#
which
_-
head,
ON ELECTRICAL of
HEAD
free
machine,
OF SEWING
of charge, including
repmr
MACHINE defects
e]ectromc
in mater_al
components,
or workmanship
motor,
wiring,
switch
and
_
speed control+ -
FULL
90-DAY
WARRANTY
For 90 days from necessary for proper
WARRANTY SERVICE CENTER!DEPARTMENT
This warranty
ON ALL
the date operation
PARTS
AND
MECHANICAL
of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, replace any parts of the sewing machine, except for normal maintenance.
IS AVAILABLE BY RETURNING IN THE UNITED STATES.
gives you specific
ADJUSTMENTS
THE
SEWING
MACHINE
and
TO THE
prowde
mechanical
serwce #
NEAREST
SEARS
SERVICE #
legal r_ghts, and you may also have other rights which
vary from
state to state.
€
#
SEARS,
ROEBUCK
AND
CO., Dept.
698/73tA,
Sears Tower,
Chicago,
IL 60684
_) #
SEWING MACHINE Now
that
you
or service,
have purchased
s_mply
contact
your
your
Kenmore
nearest
Sewing
Sears Service
Machine, Center.
should
a need ever exist
Be sure to provide
for repmr
all pertinent
parts
facts when
you call or vtsit. The model your
WHEN *MODEL
If
number
Sewing
the
Repair
ORDERING NUMBER
parts
of
Machine,
you
your
Sewing
Machine
REPAI *NAME
need
Parts Distribution
R PARTS, OF
are not Center
ITEM
stocked
ALWAYS
SEARS
PARTS_
SOURCE
be shown
GIVE
on your
THE
*PART
DESCRIPTION
nomenclature
plate
on the back of
locally0
your
order
FOLLOWING
will
INFORMATION:
be electronically
transmitted
to a Sears
for handling.
SEARS, ROEBUCK
PBRTIt
will
See page 3 for location.
AND CO., Chicago, IL60684 U.S.A.
385
735800100
INSTRUCTION O"TY_ i_ PRINTED
S-385
BOOK IN
TAIWAF
Printed
in Taiwan
Part No, 735800100
