Rushan Pamirs Expedition Report from 626 September 2010 by ...
Rushan Pamirs Expedition Report from 626 September 2010 by Andrew StokesRees
Photo taken from the advance base camp tarn, looking west. We climbed most of the peaks shown This is a report on a climbing trip to the Rushan Pamir, in south Tajikistan, southeast of Patkhor Peak, and to the north of Vankala village. During the summer of 2010, a series of violent acts against foreigners in north Afghanistan led our team to postpone climbing in the Hindu Kush. With flights to Dushanbe already booked, we decided to explore an area that appeared to have many unclimbed peaks surrounded by extensive glaciated valleys. The team spent various lengths of time in country, but none more than three weeks. The efficiency of preparations and approach was largely achieved through prior planning and reliance on a Tajik fixer (Aslisho Qurboniev). We were lucky to make a connection with Aslisho and his brother, one living in our city (London, UK) whilst the other still resided in Khorog area, in the midst of the Pamir. During the period of two weeks climbing, our team made a number of “first ascents” and identified further potential for spectacular rock faces, mixed /ice climbs and routes to connect valleys. The quality of mountaineering objectives in the region is fantastic, due to the stable climate, moderate scale of the peaks, the
variety of rock , snow and ice features, and the sheer expanse of undocumented mountains there. Arriving in Tajikistan Aslisho Qurboniev assisted us with translated documents and formalities to ensure ease of travel and passing of checkpoints. From Dushanbe we obtained additional visas (two were necessary in order to reach Khorog) then drove to Khorog in about 26 hours, only stopping for meals. The roads are mostly nontarmac. In one direction we used a soviet van that had space for ten of us and all equipment. It was economical. Coming back we spent three times the amount hiring three jeeps. There were several military style checkpoints and it was essential to have the additional visa for GornoBadakhstan. Reaching Khorog we used a full day to purchase supplies in the market. We bought bags full of bread, cheese, flour, oil, eggs, produce, spices, grains etc. We also brought a substantial supply of lightweight expedition meals from the UK. We had simple but excellent accommodation with Pamir Lodge in Khorog. Help in PL Said Ilolov. +992 93 592 1004 (mob) +992 3522 2 65 45 (H) [email protected]
Guide in Dushanbe (English speaking, if needed)……Parviz Aidarshoev [email protected] Mobile # is: +992 93 575 4499 Charge for services: …………………………………...$10 per half a day assistance …………………………………... $20 per full day assistance Services include from Meeting you @ Dushanbe airport, purchasing ticket for DushKhorog, assistance with Plan B if Plan A does not work and go by car to Khorog, assistance with purchasing Indigo sim card for your unlocked Mobile phone. Khorog/Porshinev have Mobile connection, so do some places in Rushan and explanation of how to make internal phone calls in TJK, arranging
accommodation in Dushanbe if needed.
Reaching Base Camp: A bit of guesswork gave me the confidence to think we should reach the height of the glaciers in a single day from Khorog. It was successful but not easy. The drive from Khorog to Vankala was spectacular. On the south side of the road there are several peaks of remarkable shape and I guess mostly unclimbed. At Vankala village we had already notified local men that we required packanimals to travel with us for a long day up the valley. The men seemed to have little experience, knowledge or proper equipment for this task, but we set off determined with four donkeys loaded with about 14 bags of gear, food and fuel. A good path led up to a grazing meadow about two hours hike in. Above that meadow a large boulder slope slowed progress and proved to be especially tricky for the animals. Above the boulder field the terrain was much less complicated. Late in the day we chose a location to cross the river since we were aiming to be on the east and north side of the river by the time of making camp. The river crossing was serious but entirely feasible with normal care and determination. Another two hours up the valley and we reached the desired base camp location which was ideal for its grassy meadow, water supply and proximity to the climbing valleys in several directions. Climbing The most abundant type of climbing in the area is on moderate ice faces (north aspects) that ramp from glacier valley to summit ridge. The more interesting lines on these mountains are the “goulotte” routes that follow veins of ice through steeper rock faces. Furthermore we dabbled in traditional rock climbing, but left the immense rock towers for another team to explore in the future. We climbed five significant summits in the area. The higher of these peaks required a bivi or advanced base camp. Initially it was tiresome to ascend and descend the moraines, but after one passing we marked the route and broke trail into the loose scree and steep sections. The highest peak climbed appears to be approx 5700m, and we found both the ascent route and descent via a couloir on the west side of the mountain, to be very enjoyable. In fact there was an idyllic bivi ledge on the col from which we could easily gain the ice face the next morning. This peak was climbed by Michael Reid, Sam Williams and Andrew StokesRees on the 22 September 2010. We named the peak Asabek Peak (after the family in Vankala who helped us).
Michael Reid on the summit of Asabek Peak Visible and to the west of base camp was the peak we called “hourglass” for its striking ice feature. First ascent by David Gladwin (solo) t was easily climbed however revealed a false summit. We climbed a peak on the next ridge north, a striking feature we called the Sickle. First ascent by James Yip, Michael Reid, Matthew Freear and Andrew StokesRees (65 degree ice, short mixed sections, TD). The climb of the Sickle is vividly featured in my video on climbs in the Rushan Pamirs.
Photo showing a fine section of rock pillars, measuring 900m or more. There are some world class rock lines to be done in parts of this range.
One hour’s drive from Khorog, parallel access valleys head directly north from Vankala / M41. On this map the eastern approach valley and camp location are marked. The west approach valley from Vankala leads almost directly to Patkhor Peak 6083m.
Transfer plan: Khorog Flight information Tickets go on sale at airport at 7am. If weather is clear flights are daily and arrive to Khorog at 9:30am. Flying would be cheaper than two days of driver hire. Driver information Aslisho Qurboniev comes recommended, has given a detailed offer for transport from Dushanbe. Alternate drivers are Surat Toimastov; Odina Nurmamadov for price comparison. About the drive. Accommodation Pamir lodge with all meals provided, now booked for six on inbound and outbound nights. £6/ea Trailhead dropoff Ilolov family who run Pamir lodge are going to arrange our drop off and pickup at end of trip, anywhere we request within a day’s drive (see trailhead photo below). Porters/packanimals Yes both are possible but we will need $20usd per animal and probably more for a porter if that is the case. Estimate: 1 animal per 2 people, therefore probably 3 donkeys loaded with food/ropes.
The trail head: Satellite photo of the settlement at Vankala East (population 730). This settlement lies on the M41 Pamir Highway and is at the confluence three rivers including the access valley to base camp.
Advance Base camp options are numerous: The tarn sites pictured above gave direct glacier access and visibility to the alpine.
Photo taken from tarn at advanced base camp, looking east.
Photo taken from the advance base camp tarn, looking west. We climbed most of the peaks shown This is a report on a climbing trip to the Rushan Pamir, in south Tajikistan, southeast of Patkhor Peak, and to the north of Vankala village. During the summer of 2010, a series of violent acts against foreigners in north Afghanistan led our team to postpone climbing in the Hindu Kush. With flights to Dushanbe already booked, we decided to explore an area that appeared to have many unclimbed peaks surrounded by extensive glaciated valleys. The team spent various lengths of time in country, but none more than three weeks. The efficiency of preparations and approach was largely achieved through prior planning and reliance on a Tajik fixer (Aslisho Qurboniev). We were lucky to make a connection with Aslisho and his brother, one living in our city (London, UK) whilst the other still resided in Khorog area, in the midst of the Pamir. During the period of two weeks climbing, our team made a number of “first ascents” and identified further potential for spectacular rock faces, mixed /ice climbs and routes to connect valleys. The quality of mountaineering objectives in the region is fantastic, due to the stable climate, moderate scale of the peaks, the
variety of rock , snow and ice features, and the sheer expanse of undocumented mountains there. Arriving in Tajikistan Aslisho Qurboniev assisted us with translated documents and formalities to ensure ease of travel and passing of checkpoints. From Dushanbe we obtained additional visas (two were necessary in order to reach Khorog) then drove to Khorog in about 26 hours, only stopping for meals. The roads are mostly nontarmac. In one direction we used a soviet van that had space for ten of us and all equipment. It was economical. Coming back we spent three times the amount hiring three jeeps. There were several military style checkpoints and it was essential to have the additional visa for GornoBadakhstan. Reaching Khorog we used a full day to purchase supplies in the market. We bought bags full of bread, cheese, flour, oil, eggs, produce, spices, grains etc. We also brought a substantial supply of lightweight expedition meals from the UK. We had simple but excellent accommodation with Pamir Lodge in Khorog. Help in PL Said Ilolov. +992 93 592 1004 (mob) +992 3522 2 65 45 (H) [email protected]
Guide in Dushanbe (English speaking, if needed)……Parviz Aidarshoev [email protected] Mobile # is: +992 93 575 4499 Charge for services: …………………………………...$10 per half a day assistance …………………………………... $20 per full day assistance Services include from Meeting you @ Dushanbe airport, purchasing ticket for DushKhorog, assistance with Plan B if Plan A does not work and go by car to Khorog, assistance with purchasing Indigo sim card for your unlocked Mobile phone. Khorog/Porshinev have Mobile connection, so do some places in Rushan and explanation of how to make internal phone calls in TJK, arranging
accommodation in Dushanbe if needed.
Reaching Base Camp: A bit of guesswork gave me the confidence to think we should reach the height of the glaciers in a single day from Khorog. It was successful but not easy. The drive from Khorog to Vankala was spectacular. On the south side of the road there are several peaks of remarkable shape and I guess mostly unclimbed. At Vankala village we had already notified local men that we required packanimals to travel with us for a long day up the valley. The men seemed to have little experience, knowledge or proper equipment for this task, but we set off determined with four donkeys loaded with about 14 bags of gear, food and fuel. A good path led up to a grazing meadow about two hours hike in. Above that meadow a large boulder slope slowed progress and proved to be especially tricky for the animals. Above the boulder field the terrain was much less complicated. Late in the day we chose a location to cross the river since we were aiming to be on the east and north side of the river by the time of making camp. The river crossing was serious but entirely feasible with normal care and determination. Another two hours up the valley and we reached the desired base camp location which was ideal for its grassy meadow, water supply and proximity to the climbing valleys in several directions. Climbing The most abundant type of climbing in the area is on moderate ice faces (north aspects) that ramp from glacier valley to summit ridge. The more interesting lines on these mountains are the “goulotte” routes that follow veins of ice through steeper rock faces. Furthermore we dabbled in traditional rock climbing, but left the immense rock towers for another team to explore in the future. We climbed five significant summits in the area. The higher of these peaks required a bivi or advanced base camp. Initially it was tiresome to ascend and descend the moraines, but after one passing we marked the route and broke trail into the loose scree and steep sections. The highest peak climbed appears to be approx 5700m, and we found both the ascent route and descent via a couloir on the west side of the mountain, to be very enjoyable. In fact there was an idyllic bivi ledge on the col from which we could easily gain the ice face the next morning. This peak was climbed by Michael Reid, Sam Williams and Andrew StokesRees on the 22 September 2010. We named the peak Asabek Peak (after the family in Vankala who helped us).
Michael Reid on the summit of Asabek Peak Visible and to the west of base camp was the peak we called “hourglass” for its striking ice feature. First ascent by David Gladwin (solo) t was easily climbed however revealed a false summit. We climbed a peak on the next ridge north, a striking feature we called the Sickle. First ascent by James Yip, Michael Reid, Matthew Freear and Andrew StokesRees (65 degree ice, short mixed sections, TD). The climb of the Sickle is vividly featured in my video on climbs in the Rushan Pamirs.
Photo showing a fine section of rock pillars, measuring 900m or more. There are some world class rock lines to be done in parts of this range.
One hour’s drive from Khorog, parallel access valleys head directly north from Vankala / M41. On this map the eastern approach valley and camp location are marked. The west approach valley from Vankala leads almost directly to Patkhor Peak 6083m.
Transfer plan: Khorog Flight information Tickets go on sale at airport at 7am. If weather is clear flights are daily and arrive to Khorog at 9:30am. Flying would be cheaper than two days of driver hire. Driver information Aslisho Qurboniev comes recommended, has given a detailed offer for transport from Dushanbe. Alternate drivers are Surat Toimastov; Odina Nurmamadov for price comparison. About the drive. Accommodation Pamir lodge with all meals provided, now booked for six on inbound and outbound nights. £6/ea Trailhead dropoff Ilolov family who run Pamir lodge are going to arrange our drop off and pickup at end of trip, anywhere we request within a day’s drive (see trailhead photo below). Porters/packanimals Yes both are possible but we will need $20usd per animal and probably more for a porter if that is the case. Estimate: 1 animal per 2 people, therefore probably 3 donkeys loaded with food/ropes.
The trail head: Satellite photo of the settlement at Vankala East (population 730). This settlement lies on the M41 Pamir Highway and is at the confluence three rivers including the access valley to base camp.
Advance Base camp options are numerous: The tarn sites pictured above gave direct glacier access and visibility to the alpine.
Photo taken from tarn at advanced base camp, looking east.
