Ruth Gorge, The Eye Tooth, West Face, The Dream in the Spirit of ...

Ruth Gorge, The Eye Tooth, West Face, The Dream in the Spirit o f Mugs, new variation. After trying to do ice an d m ixed clim bing on D enali and M t. H unter, Julian N eum ayer an d I changed o u r plans because o f Alaska’s tropical tem peratures, flying to the Ruth Gorge to climb rock. O n June 16 we m ade the sixth ascent o f T he D ream in th e S pirit o f M ugs, in 10 h o u rs to th e su m m it ridge, by a new variation. Perhaps because we were happy to clim b again, after sitting to o long in the tent, we m issed the route after the th ird pitch a n d clim bed a new v ariation to th e right, up to the bivy sp o t at pitch 13. R ight o f th e big 120m corner, we clim bed seven long (u p to 80m ) pitches on slabs, directly th ro u g h a sm all ro o f system. The clim bing w ent at easy 5 .10 on very good rock. A lexander F idi , Austria