SABCO Operation and CIP
Dogfish Head Craft Brewery Controlled Document
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DOGFISH HEAD CRAFT BREWERY Click here to enter a DOC # SB03 date. SABCO OPERATION AND CIP
CREATED BY: Kristen Ewer Date Created: 1/2/15 Revised Date: Click here to enter text.
PURPOSE:
The purpose of this document is to instruct Dogfish coworkers how to manually operate the SABCO/BrewMagic system for Small Batch, as well as how to properly and effectively CIP the system before and after use. EQUIPMENT: • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
SABCO Brew-Magic brew system Brewing ingredients Hot water hose (in Bay 4) Cold water drop down hose SB Grain Mill (in Malt Handling) Propane Lighter Carboy(s) Carboy gear (airlocks and lids if using wide-mouthed carboys) Bucket(s) Large spoon Timer/Clock Sample tubes Anton-Parr analytical instrument (on bench top in lab) Mesh bag (if needed during boil) Iodine (if wanting to test mash for sugar conversion) Wort chiller and wort chiller parts (see Figure 1 on page ____) CIP chemicals (caustic, iodophor) Electrical extension cord (yellow one in SB room) DFH Company Confidential Revision #
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Either new or old SABCO kettle (new one is not fitted with a false bottom, but the old one is, so if you’d prefer brewing with a false bottom in your kettle, swap out the new one for the old kettle, which is kept in the wood room)
PROCEDURES: NOTE: This SOP will instruct the user to use the SABCO manually, and will not go over how to program the electronic recipes in MagicSoft or how to use the electronic heater on the SABCO. If the user wishes to utilize these features, please read the Brew-Magic Manual for further instruction. So you’re ready to brew your Small Batch beer! You and your team have shown up for your brew day, you all have your proper PPE, ingredients, maybe a snack, some tunes, and are ready to roll. You can either brew in Bay 4 (preferred for proximity of utilities) or outside by the Bocce Ball courts (this SOP will focus on Bay 4 functionality). Move the SABCO system away from the wall into Bay 4, out of the way of the tour route (if brewing during tour hours) and plug her in. 1. Let’s go over some screen stuff so you know what you’re looking at. Any screen will always include a navigation map at the bottom where a blue dot will show your current location. There are 4 columns; home, recipe checklist, mash and boil. Navigating left/right moves you through columns and scrolling up/down moves you through the column where you are currently located. It is important to remember that with manual operation of the SABCO, you won’t use many of the parameters in the computer. Hit ME!
2. The Main Menu - the Brew option is for manual use of the system. Recipes and Settings are for more integrated use (please see Brew-Magic manual for these options). Hit Brew!
Navigation bar
3. This screen will pop up -
this is the main brewing screen. DFH Company Confidential Revision #
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a. The top left is the status bar and describes what the system is currently doing. Here’s a list of what each status means: i. Scroll Down to Start Mash/Boil – nothing is happening, the system is waiting for you to start ii. Pumping – the pump is on but the heat is not on iii. Use Burner – the pump is on and you should use your gas burner to heat the vessel – this is the heating option you should be using iv. Self-Regulating – the pump is on and the electric heat is enabled – this option should not be used v. Temp Control on Standby – the pump is off and heat is off vi. Sensor error – the controller is not receiving a usable signal from the temperature sensor b. The top right has two boxes: i.
Pump is off,
pump is on
ii. Electric heating feature is disabled (should always be grey) c. Other features i.
Your temperature readout and target. You can put in your target temperature, and when you’ve hit it, the system will give you an alarm, and you can either throttle back your heat, or turn off the burner.
4. Mash/Boil screen - Scroll down to get here. This is mainly used with programmed recipes, but you can run the timers for your convenience.
5. Settings screen - SABCO can operate in Fahrenheit or Celsius. You choose. An enabled beeper will warn you when temperatures have been reached or timers in use have run out, a disabled beeper will stay quiet. DFH Company Confidential Revision #
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Figure 1. SABCO/BrewMagic Small Batch system. Valves are labeled in red font, vessels in black. Valve # 1 2
3 4
5 6
Valve Description Outlet from the Boil Kettle Three-way valve that directs wort flow from the Mash vessel in two possible directions • To the Boil Kettle when the valve handle is turned to the left (open position) • To the pump when the valve handle is in the vertical position (closed, as shown) Outlet from the Hot Liquor Tank (HLT). When the valve is open (horizontal position), liquid moves to the pump. Stops flow of liquid to or from the Mash vessel (shown closed, in the vertical position) • When open along with Valve 2 closed, liquid can flow from the Mash vessel to the pump • When open with Valve 3 open, HLT water flows to Valve 2 (closed) and can enter the Mash vessel • When closed with Valve 3 open, HLT liquid flows to the pump only Regulates flow rate from the pump to the top inlet of the Mash vessel Drain valve to remove all liquid from the system for cleaning or cold storage
The Pump: • •
Never run the pump when there is no liquid through it! In order for this pump (magnetic drive, non-suction pump) to function properly, there must be liquid running through it at all times. Any air that remains in the pipes or pump DFH Company Confidential Revision #
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will cause the pump to cavitate, or stop functioning. In order to avoid pump cavitation, liquid must be passed through the pipes and pump, which is called priming. Prime the pump: follow this procedure before each brew session, and with proper pumping procedure, the pump will remain primed throughout the session. 1. Do not turn on the pump. 2. Close Valves 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6. All of ‘em! 3. Fill the HLT with a minimum of 12 gallons of water. This can be heated as desired for brewing. 4. Open Valves 3, 4 and 5. Water should flow into the mash vessel from the bottom up. 5. When the water level reaches 1 – 2 inches over the top of the false bottom, close Valve 4. 6. Do not open the drain Valve 6 as it can pull air into the plumbing. Now the pipes and pump are flooded with water. The pump can now be turned on when needed. While the pump is running, the following three things will help avoid cavitation: • • •
Either Valve 3 or Valve 4 must be fully open with liquid moving from the pump. Open a new liquid source (Valve 3 or 4) before closing the previous liquid source. While pumping, restricting flow by adjusting Valve 5 will not harm the pump. Fully closing it while trying to pump into the Mash vessel top inlet WILL dead-head the pump (make it pump with nowhere to go – not good!).
Ok, that’s MagicSoft and some mechanical stuff at a glance – ready to brew? Let’s do it! BREWING: (bold type is instructions, italic is background info) 1. Sign out however many carboys you need from the SB room sign out sheet. They should be clean, but you’ll have to at least sanitize them with ioduphor. It works best to fill them most of the way with water, then add the chemical, then fill to full (chemicals will foam so adding chemical first then water will bubble too much to get an accurate level). 2. Fill your Hot Liquor Tank (HLT) with either hot water from the large red hose coming off of the brewery’s HLT (vessel closest to the black doors in Bay 4) or a cold drop down hose. Some attachments can be added to the red hose to make use easier (ask Amanda about these); using hot water will cut down on heating time. If using cold water, plan on waiting a bit. DFH Company Confidential Revision #
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3. Heat water in HLT to a few degrees over your strike water temperature. This will ensure mash temperature won’t drop too much once the grain is added. a. To use the gas burner, first open the propane tank (righty tighty, lefty loosey – you want loosey).
b. c. Open the gas valve under the HLT to start the propane flowing. With the lighter, ignite the gas and throttle back the flame to what is appropriate. 4. While your strike water is heating up, mill your grain. Plug in the mill and place a clean bucket underneath the mill gap to catch your grain once it passes through. a. This mill isn’t the easiest to adjust – you want all of the grain crushed, but not pulverized. If it isn’t crushed enough initially, pass it through the mill a second time, or as needed. b. Grain milled too fine (flour-like) will create oatmeal and won’t allow for good lautering = stuck bed/mash. c. Grain not milled enough will not allow for enough and proper conversion of starches to sugar during the mash step, and your overall gravity will be low. 5. Mash in! a. Fill bottom of mash tun with water, enough to just cover the false bottom plates. i. With the pump off and Valve 2 closed, open Valve 3, 4 and 5. b. Make water and grain additions slowly until all of the grain is added, starting with water. Do not add grain to a dry mash tun, this allows grain to get below the false bottom and plugs up the pipes and pump. This is bad. i. You can add water from the bottom or the top. Follow the valve sequence stated above for bottom filling or… ii. Top filling – Close Valve 2 and 4. iii. Open Valve 3 and 5, adjusting Valve 5 to adjust flow rate. c. Stir grist slowly to create a homogenous mash, removing lumps and bubbles. Vigorous stirring can further crush grain increasing chances of a stuck mash, and leach tannins into the wort. d. Avoid adding too much water and too much grain at once. DFH Company Confidential Revision #
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e. Once all grain is in, add enough water to cover the grain bed by about 1 inch. Turn off pump and close valves 3 and 5. Position the tubing at the top of the mash tun to lay on top of the grain bed at the outermost, inside edge of the vessel. Make sure it is submerged in the 1 inch of water. You are now mashed-in and ready to circulate. SABCO calls this “RIMS recirculation”, brewers here call it “vorlaufing” or just plain circulating. This will help create a homogonous mash and avoid temperature hot spots in your mash. a. Liquid flows from under the false bottom plates through Valve 2 and Valve 4 to the pump. Use Valve 5 to adjust flow rate as it returns to the mash tun through the tubing at the top. i. Open Valve 4 ii. Close Valve 2… b. Turn on the pump and adjust flow rate with Valve 5 so that it is about halfway open. At first the liquid will be clear then will turn dark, this is normal. c. Maintain the approximate 1 inch of water on the top of the grain bed by adjusting Valve 5. d. Turn on the mash burner the same way you lit the HLT burner earlier. NOTE: never use the mash burner when the pump is not circulating liquid to avoid caramelization and heat layering. e. Be sure the tubing is not pointing down into the grain bed, and is laying flat on the top; this will promote the flow of liquid through the grain, rather than around it. f. Do not increase the depth of the water atop the grain bed – this means too much water is being pumped from the bottom of the mash tun to the top and will compact the grain bed and lead to a stuck mash. g. During this mash recirculation time, use a moderate to low flame to achieve about a 5 degree per minute ramp of temperature. Follow your mash profile, ramping up temperature to achieve your target temp by adjusting the mash burner flame, and resting by turning your burner down very low, or off. a. Test that your saccharification rest is complete by using the iodine test. b. Take a small sample of wort and add a few drops of iodine. If the sample remains black, more time is needed to convert the starches to sugar. If the sample is clear, your conversion is complete and you can proceed to step 8. During your mash time, re-fill the HLT for your sparge water. Heat this water to the desired sparge temperature. Ramp up to mash off temperature (172˚F) to end enzymatic activity. DFH Company Confidential Revision #
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10. Now you’re ready to start running off into the kettle. The SABCO system is set up to work best with a “fly-sparge” method (described below), but batch sparging is ok too. a. Open Valve 3 (supplies sparge water from HLT to pump). b. Close Valve 4 (shuts recirculation loop out of the mash vessel). c. Open and adjust Valve 2 to adjust your run-off flow rate into the kettle. d. Turn the pump on. e. Keep Valve 5 open and adjust to supply sparge water to the mash tun. f. Adjust Valve 2 and Valve 5 to match flow rates (ideally slow flow rates) to maintain the 1 inch of water above the grain bed. g. Turn on the kettle burner once there is some volume in the vessel. h. Take gravity samples throughout run off to keep track of how much sugar your wort contains. This will help you decide to cut the run off volume sooner or later if there is too much or not enough sugar in the wort. It will also help later on during boil decide if you should boil longer to further concentrate the wort if it’s too dilute. i. Once there is enough volume in the kettle PLUS the volume left in the mash tun to reach the pre-boil volume, stop the pump and close Valve 3 to stop sparging. j. Allow the remaining volume to run-off into the kettle, all the while adjusting the kettle burner to reach boil and occasionally stirring the wort in the kettle. k. Once run off is complete, close Valve 2 and shut off the mash burner. 11. Now your kettle is isolated from the mash tun and HLT and you want to bring the wort in the kettle to a boil. Adjust the kettle burner while heating up to achieve boil. a. Take a sample from the kettle for a pre-boil gravity check. 12. Just before boil, add about 0.5 oz of your initial bittering hops. This will relieve the surface tension of the wort and should help prevent boil over. This is most useful if brewing a 10 gallon batch; 5 gallons batches do not reach the top of the kettle, and do not need this step. 13. Once the kettle has reached boil, start your boil clock (either in the system, or by your watch, phone, sundial…). If you have any more bittering hops to add at the start of boil, add them now. a. Take a gravity sample once boil has been reached (from Valve 1). 14. Add the rest of your hops according to your hopping regime, in addition to any other ingredients you’re using during boil. Adding ingredients during the boil is useful because they become sterile so extra effort to sterilize them is unnecessary. It is good to play with ingredient addition times; things added early in boil are usually more for flavor and things added towards the end lend more aroma to the resulting brew. DFH Company Confidential Revision #
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15. While you’re boiling is a good time to make sure your carboys are ready. If you have not done so yet, sanitize them, allow at least 5 minutes of contact time, and empty them when ready to fill with wort. 16. Fill a bucket with new sanitizer solution. Place the wort chiller parts in the bucket to sanitize the parts, in addition to the airlocks for the carboys. 17. Time to set up your wort chiller; Figure 1 illustrates the parts needed to do so. Attach the hose to the kettle outlet Valve 1 and to the inlet to the knock out pump. From the pump outlet attach a hose to the inlet to the wort chiller. Attach your racking cane hose to the wort chiller outlet. Do not put the end in the carboy yet; leave it in the sanitizer bucket. Knock Out (transfer) pump
Drain valve (use to prime once liquid is running through it)
Wort Chiller (heat exchanger)
Wort Chiller wort inlet Connect to cold water source Wort Chiller cold water inlet
Wort Chiller cold water outlet
Wort Chiller wort outlet Hose to fermentation vessel
Figure 1. Knock out set up including hoses, knock out (transfer pump) and wort chiller
18. Attach a 1” grey hose from either the water drop down in Bay 4 or from the bottom of the filtered water tank also in Bay 4 (see Figures 2 and 3 for both water sources). If using the water drop down, make sure the 1” hose is long enough. Attach this water source to the wort chiller so that it runs opposite the flow of knock out. Attach a drain hose on the other end of the water source on the wort chiller.
The Hot Liquor Tank (HLT) is in Bay 4 DFH Company Confidential closest to the Brewhouse 1 black bay Revision # doors. There is usually a red hose (2”) attached to a pipe coming off of the tank. By attaching a smaller hose or filling up buckets from this hose,
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Figure 2. Hot liquor tank in Bay 4 and setup to use to use the hot water
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Filtered cold water tank, outlet at bottom (2” fitting, will need a reducer part to fit to a 1” hose)
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Cold water sources in Bay 4 include the filtered water tank (to the right of the HLT) and a water drop down connection on the wall the opposite side of Bay 4. 1” grey hoses can be found in the brewhouses or in the cellars – ask a brewer for help if you need.
Wall drop down water connection (1” fitting)
Figure 3. Cold water sources in Bay 4, the opposite end of the HLT
19. Once your boil time is up, it’s time to knock out into your carboy(s)! a. Make sure your carboy(s) are ready, as are the airlocks/lids for them. b. Is your yeast ready? Is it fluid enough to easily pitch into the wort? c. Take a post-boil/knock out gravity sample. 20. With the racking cane out of the sanitizer bucket and pointing to the floor, open Valve 1 on the kettle to start the knock out flow with gravity. You can turn on the knock out pump here, but make sure you do so AFTER Valve 1 is open. Once you see wort coming out of the racking cane, put it in the carboy. DFH Company Confidential Revision #
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21. You’re now knocking your wort out! Once your carboy(s) are full, shake up that yeast and throw it in! Make sure to spray the top of the carboy and your gloved hands with isopropyl alcohol, just to keep germs away. 22. Once the yeast is pitched, place the sanitized airlock(s) on the top (generously spraying the carboy and airlock with isopropyl alcohol), and aerate by shaking the carboy(s) around as best as you can. 23. Update your brewsheet in your team’s folder in the SB folder on the M Drive with the actual values from your brew. 24. That’s it, your wort is about to become beer! Pat yourselves on the backs, now it’s time to clean J CIP: 1. Disconnect and remove the Mash and Kettle vessels. Dump spent grain in a bucket and take out to the garbage dumpster. Take out the false bottom(s) and other small parts; clean these separately. Hosing out the vessels should be enough, however if there is anything stuck on, or stained, the SB room has proper cleaning supplies for stainless steel. DO NOT USE STEEL WOOL or CHLORINE BASED PRODUCTS (bleach). 2. Use the HLT to create a 10 gallon batch of cleaning solution (caustic chemical to be provided/in SB room) with 10 gallons water and ________ mL caustic (Avoid II). This solution can be preheated as it will aid in the cleaning process. 3. Put the Mash and Kettle vessels back in place and re-hook up. 4. Move the solution to the Mash vessel from the HLT. 5. Recirculate it to and from the Mash vessel for at least 15 minutes. 6. Move the solution over to the Kettle; let it soak for about 5 to 10 minutes. 7. While soaking, make sure your knock out lines are still set up (reset them if they were taken down); make one difference, flip the wort chiller around to into the outlet and out the inlet. After soaking the Kettle, pump the solution through the knock out pump and the wort chiller to the floor. The wort chiller will be hot to the touch here – use gloves when handling it! 8. Repeat steps 2 – 7 with cold rinse water and make sure system is rinsed thoroughly. 9. After all is said and done, open Valve 6 which is the drain valve to the whole system. DO THIS AFTER EVERY BREW SESSION as it will evacuate all liquid from the system and prevent future damage from cold or to the pump. 10. Hose/wipe down the frame/outside of the system, particularly if you had a boil over or are a messy brew team. 11. Break down all clamps and gaskets and place them in the metal mesh basket. If the large plastic cut-off tote in Bay 4 is full of liquid, hang the basket in the liquid. If it is DFH Company Confidential Revision #
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not, please email Amanda and leave the mesh basket underneath the SABCO after you’re done. 12. Wheel the SABCO back against the wall in Bay 4, and clean up all other parts, and you’re done! Please email Amanda once you have finished your Small Batch Brew. If you have questions, or if something didn’t work properly, couldn’t find something, broke something… if none of those things, just to say that you’ve finished. Then go ahead and read SOP #SB03 to care for your beer, and #SB04 for Post-Brew Day Stuff. Thanks, and hope you had a good brew day! GLOSSARY • • • • • •
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• •
Strike water – the water initially mixed with malted grains to form the mash Grist – the grains used to create wort, can use a wide variety of ingredients Mashing in – combining the strike water and grist to create the mash at a specific temperature Mash-Off Temperature – the temperature at which enzymatic activity ceases to occur, signifying time for runoff Wort – sweet, sugary liquid formed from the starches turned into sugars from grains, combined with yeast to create beer through fermentation Lautering – separating the fermentable wort from the mash grain by creating a filter bed out of the grain on top of a false bottom; volume collected from lautering is called runoff volume and is collected in the kettle Vorlauf – German for mash recirculation (literally “leader”), the process of pulling wort from the base of the mash vessel (or lauter tun) and recirculating it back on top of the grain bed Sparging/Sparge water – hot water (specific temperature) pumped atop the lautering grain bed to push wort in the grain bed out, as well as remaining sugars in the grain Batch Sparging – pumping a specific amount of liquid atop the grain bed and stopping, allowing for a certain runoff volume to drain off the bed, until pumping more sparge water atop the grain bed DFH Company Confidential Revision #
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Stuck Mash – when wort cannot effectively run off of the grain bed due to either too finely milled grain (oatmeal bed) or too much pressure across the grain bed (too much liquid on top and not enough underneath false bottom) Gravity – the amount of sugar contained in wort, measured in degrees Plato (⁰P) as whole numbers, or specific gravity (ratio of density of wort to water, so no units) Pre-boil Volume – volume in kettle right after runoff is complete, before boil Knock Out – term to describe transferring wort from the kettle into a fermentation vessel Fermentation – the chemical breakdown of sugars by yeast to produce ethyl alcohol and carbon dioxide (CO2)
DOCUMENTATION: Brewsheet in SB folder – don’t forget to save your copy in your team’s folder with updated numbers! SAFETY: PPE – eye glasses, steel-toed boots, chemical gloves REFERENCE:
Owner Signature: Kristen Ewer
Date: 1/2/15
Technical Review:
Date: DFH Company Confidential Revision #
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Safety Review Signature:
Date:
Reviewed By Signature:
Date:
Revision History Page Rev 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14
Originator Kristen Ewer
Date 1/16/15
Description of Revision Addition of pictures and glossary
Approval: Quality:
Date:
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DOGFISH HEAD CRAFT BREWERY Click here to enter a DOC # SB03 date. SABCO OPERATION AND CIP
CREATED BY: Kristen Ewer Date Created: 1/2/15 Revised Date: Click here to enter text.
PURPOSE:
The purpose of this document is to instruct Dogfish coworkers how to manually operate the SABCO/BrewMagic system for Small Batch, as well as how to properly and effectively CIP the system before and after use. EQUIPMENT: • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
SABCO Brew-Magic brew system Brewing ingredients Hot water hose (in Bay 4) Cold water drop down hose SB Grain Mill (in Malt Handling) Propane Lighter Carboy(s) Carboy gear (airlocks and lids if using wide-mouthed carboys) Bucket(s) Large spoon Timer/Clock Sample tubes Anton-Parr analytical instrument (on bench top in lab) Mesh bag (if needed during boil) Iodine (if wanting to test mash for sugar conversion) Wort chiller and wort chiller parts (see Figure 1 on page ____) CIP chemicals (caustic, iodophor) Electrical extension cord (yellow one in SB room) DFH Company Confidential Revision #
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Either new or old SABCO kettle (new one is not fitted with a false bottom, but the old one is, so if you’d prefer brewing with a false bottom in your kettle, swap out the new one for the old kettle, which is kept in the wood room)
PROCEDURES: NOTE: This SOP will instruct the user to use the SABCO manually, and will not go over how to program the electronic recipes in MagicSoft or how to use the electronic heater on the SABCO. If the user wishes to utilize these features, please read the Brew-Magic Manual for further instruction. So you’re ready to brew your Small Batch beer! You and your team have shown up for your brew day, you all have your proper PPE, ingredients, maybe a snack, some tunes, and are ready to roll. You can either brew in Bay 4 (preferred for proximity of utilities) or outside by the Bocce Ball courts (this SOP will focus on Bay 4 functionality). Move the SABCO system away from the wall into Bay 4, out of the way of the tour route (if brewing during tour hours) and plug her in. 1. Let’s go over some screen stuff so you know what you’re looking at. Any screen will always include a navigation map at the bottom where a blue dot will show your current location. There are 4 columns; home, recipe checklist, mash and boil. Navigating left/right moves you through columns and scrolling up/down moves you through the column where you are currently located. It is important to remember that with manual operation of the SABCO, you won’t use many of the parameters in the computer. Hit ME!
2. The Main Menu - the Brew option is for manual use of the system. Recipes and Settings are for more integrated use (please see Brew-Magic manual for these options). Hit Brew!
Navigation bar
3. This screen will pop up -
this is the main brewing screen. DFH Company Confidential Revision #
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a. The top left is the status bar and describes what the system is currently doing. Here’s a list of what each status means: i. Scroll Down to Start Mash/Boil – nothing is happening, the system is waiting for you to start ii. Pumping – the pump is on but the heat is not on iii. Use Burner – the pump is on and you should use your gas burner to heat the vessel – this is the heating option you should be using iv. Self-Regulating – the pump is on and the electric heat is enabled – this option should not be used v. Temp Control on Standby – the pump is off and heat is off vi. Sensor error – the controller is not receiving a usable signal from the temperature sensor b. The top right has two boxes: i.
Pump is off,
pump is on
ii. Electric heating feature is disabled (should always be grey) c. Other features i.
Your temperature readout and target. You can put in your target temperature, and when you’ve hit it, the system will give you an alarm, and you can either throttle back your heat, or turn off the burner.
4. Mash/Boil screen - Scroll down to get here. This is mainly used with programmed recipes, but you can run the timers for your convenience.
5. Settings screen - SABCO can operate in Fahrenheit or Celsius. You choose. An enabled beeper will warn you when temperatures have been reached or timers in use have run out, a disabled beeper will stay quiet. DFH Company Confidential Revision #
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Figure 1. SABCO/BrewMagic Small Batch system. Valves are labeled in red font, vessels in black. Valve # 1 2
3 4
5 6
Valve Description Outlet from the Boil Kettle Three-way valve that directs wort flow from the Mash vessel in two possible directions • To the Boil Kettle when the valve handle is turned to the left (open position) • To the pump when the valve handle is in the vertical position (closed, as shown) Outlet from the Hot Liquor Tank (HLT). When the valve is open (horizontal position), liquid moves to the pump. Stops flow of liquid to or from the Mash vessel (shown closed, in the vertical position) • When open along with Valve 2 closed, liquid can flow from the Mash vessel to the pump • When open with Valve 3 open, HLT water flows to Valve 2 (closed) and can enter the Mash vessel • When closed with Valve 3 open, HLT liquid flows to the pump only Regulates flow rate from the pump to the top inlet of the Mash vessel Drain valve to remove all liquid from the system for cleaning or cold storage
The Pump: • •
Never run the pump when there is no liquid through it! In order for this pump (magnetic drive, non-suction pump) to function properly, there must be liquid running through it at all times. Any air that remains in the pipes or pump DFH Company Confidential Revision #
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will cause the pump to cavitate, or stop functioning. In order to avoid pump cavitation, liquid must be passed through the pipes and pump, which is called priming. Prime the pump: follow this procedure before each brew session, and with proper pumping procedure, the pump will remain primed throughout the session. 1. Do not turn on the pump. 2. Close Valves 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6. All of ‘em! 3. Fill the HLT with a minimum of 12 gallons of water. This can be heated as desired for brewing. 4. Open Valves 3, 4 and 5. Water should flow into the mash vessel from the bottom up. 5. When the water level reaches 1 – 2 inches over the top of the false bottom, close Valve 4. 6. Do not open the drain Valve 6 as it can pull air into the plumbing. Now the pipes and pump are flooded with water. The pump can now be turned on when needed. While the pump is running, the following three things will help avoid cavitation: • • •
Either Valve 3 or Valve 4 must be fully open with liquid moving from the pump. Open a new liquid source (Valve 3 or 4) before closing the previous liquid source. While pumping, restricting flow by adjusting Valve 5 will not harm the pump. Fully closing it while trying to pump into the Mash vessel top inlet WILL dead-head the pump (make it pump with nowhere to go – not good!).
Ok, that’s MagicSoft and some mechanical stuff at a glance – ready to brew? Let’s do it! BREWING: (bold type is instructions, italic is background info) 1. Sign out however many carboys you need from the SB room sign out sheet. They should be clean, but you’ll have to at least sanitize them with ioduphor. It works best to fill them most of the way with water, then add the chemical, then fill to full (chemicals will foam so adding chemical first then water will bubble too much to get an accurate level). 2. Fill your Hot Liquor Tank (HLT) with either hot water from the large red hose coming off of the brewery’s HLT (vessel closest to the black doors in Bay 4) or a cold drop down hose. Some attachments can be added to the red hose to make use easier (ask Amanda about these); using hot water will cut down on heating time. If using cold water, plan on waiting a bit. DFH Company Confidential Revision #
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3. Heat water in HLT to a few degrees over your strike water temperature. This will ensure mash temperature won’t drop too much once the grain is added. a. To use the gas burner, first open the propane tank (righty tighty, lefty loosey – you want loosey).
b. c. Open the gas valve under the HLT to start the propane flowing. With the lighter, ignite the gas and throttle back the flame to what is appropriate. 4. While your strike water is heating up, mill your grain. Plug in the mill and place a clean bucket underneath the mill gap to catch your grain once it passes through. a. This mill isn’t the easiest to adjust – you want all of the grain crushed, but not pulverized. If it isn’t crushed enough initially, pass it through the mill a second time, or as needed. b. Grain milled too fine (flour-like) will create oatmeal and won’t allow for good lautering = stuck bed/mash. c. Grain not milled enough will not allow for enough and proper conversion of starches to sugar during the mash step, and your overall gravity will be low. 5. Mash in! a. Fill bottom of mash tun with water, enough to just cover the false bottom plates. i. With the pump off and Valve 2 closed, open Valve 3, 4 and 5. b. Make water and grain additions slowly until all of the grain is added, starting with water. Do not add grain to a dry mash tun, this allows grain to get below the false bottom and plugs up the pipes and pump. This is bad. i. You can add water from the bottom or the top. Follow the valve sequence stated above for bottom filling or… ii. Top filling – Close Valve 2 and 4. iii. Open Valve 3 and 5, adjusting Valve 5 to adjust flow rate. c. Stir grist slowly to create a homogenous mash, removing lumps and bubbles. Vigorous stirring can further crush grain increasing chances of a stuck mash, and leach tannins into the wort. d. Avoid adding too much water and too much grain at once. DFH Company Confidential Revision #
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e. Once all grain is in, add enough water to cover the grain bed by about 1 inch. Turn off pump and close valves 3 and 5. Position the tubing at the top of the mash tun to lay on top of the grain bed at the outermost, inside edge of the vessel. Make sure it is submerged in the 1 inch of water. You are now mashed-in and ready to circulate. SABCO calls this “RIMS recirculation”, brewers here call it “vorlaufing” or just plain circulating. This will help create a homogonous mash and avoid temperature hot spots in your mash. a. Liquid flows from under the false bottom plates through Valve 2 and Valve 4 to the pump. Use Valve 5 to adjust flow rate as it returns to the mash tun through the tubing at the top. i. Open Valve 4 ii. Close Valve 2… b. Turn on the pump and adjust flow rate with Valve 5 so that it is about halfway open. At first the liquid will be clear then will turn dark, this is normal. c. Maintain the approximate 1 inch of water on the top of the grain bed by adjusting Valve 5. d. Turn on the mash burner the same way you lit the HLT burner earlier. NOTE: never use the mash burner when the pump is not circulating liquid to avoid caramelization and heat layering. e. Be sure the tubing is not pointing down into the grain bed, and is laying flat on the top; this will promote the flow of liquid through the grain, rather than around it. f. Do not increase the depth of the water atop the grain bed – this means too much water is being pumped from the bottom of the mash tun to the top and will compact the grain bed and lead to a stuck mash. g. During this mash recirculation time, use a moderate to low flame to achieve about a 5 degree per minute ramp of temperature. Follow your mash profile, ramping up temperature to achieve your target temp by adjusting the mash burner flame, and resting by turning your burner down very low, or off. a. Test that your saccharification rest is complete by using the iodine test. b. Take a small sample of wort and add a few drops of iodine. If the sample remains black, more time is needed to convert the starches to sugar. If the sample is clear, your conversion is complete and you can proceed to step 8. During your mash time, re-fill the HLT for your sparge water. Heat this water to the desired sparge temperature. Ramp up to mash off temperature (172˚F) to end enzymatic activity. DFH Company Confidential Revision #
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10. Now you’re ready to start running off into the kettle. The SABCO system is set up to work best with a “fly-sparge” method (described below), but batch sparging is ok too. a. Open Valve 3 (supplies sparge water from HLT to pump). b. Close Valve 4 (shuts recirculation loop out of the mash vessel). c. Open and adjust Valve 2 to adjust your run-off flow rate into the kettle. d. Turn the pump on. e. Keep Valve 5 open and adjust to supply sparge water to the mash tun. f. Adjust Valve 2 and Valve 5 to match flow rates (ideally slow flow rates) to maintain the 1 inch of water above the grain bed. g. Turn on the kettle burner once there is some volume in the vessel. h. Take gravity samples throughout run off to keep track of how much sugar your wort contains. This will help you decide to cut the run off volume sooner or later if there is too much or not enough sugar in the wort. It will also help later on during boil decide if you should boil longer to further concentrate the wort if it’s too dilute. i. Once there is enough volume in the kettle PLUS the volume left in the mash tun to reach the pre-boil volume, stop the pump and close Valve 3 to stop sparging. j. Allow the remaining volume to run-off into the kettle, all the while adjusting the kettle burner to reach boil and occasionally stirring the wort in the kettle. k. Once run off is complete, close Valve 2 and shut off the mash burner. 11. Now your kettle is isolated from the mash tun and HLT and you want to bring the wort in the kettle to a boil. Adjust the kettle burner while heating up to achieve boil. a. Take a sample from the kettle for a pre-boil gravity check. 12. Just before boil, add about 0.5 oz of your initial bittering hops. This will relieve the surface tension of the wort and should help prevent boil over. This is most useful if brewing a 10 gallon batch; 5 gallons batches do not reach the top of the kettle, and do not need this step. 13. Once the kettle has reached boil, start your boil clock (either in the system, or by your watch, phone, sundial…). If you have any more bittering hops to add at the start of boil, add them now. a. Take a gravity sample once boil has been reached (from Valve 1). 14. Add the rest of your hops according to your hopping regime, in addition to any other ingredients you’re using during boil. Adding ingredients during the boil is useful because they become sterile so extra effort to sterilize them is unnecessary. It is good to play with ingredient addition times; things added early in boil are usually more for flavor and things added towards the end lend more aroma to the resulting brew. DFH Company Confidential Revision #
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15. While you’re boiling is a good time to make sure your carboys are ready. If you have not done so yet, sanitize them, allow at least 5 minutes of contact time, and empty them when ready to fill with wort. 16. Fill a bucket with new sanitizer solution. Place the wort chiller parts in the bucket to sanitize the parts, in addition to the airlocks for the carboys. 17. Time to set up your wort chiller; Figure 1 illustrates the parts needed to do so. Attach the hose to the kettle outlet Valve 1 and to the inlet to the knock out pump. From the pump outlet attach a hose to the inlet to the wort chiller. Attach your racking cane hose to the wort chiller outlet. Do not put the end in the carboy yet; leave it in the sanitizer bucket. Knock Out (transfer) pump
Drain valve (use to prime once liquid is running through it)
Wort Chiller (heat exchanger)
Wort Chiller wort inlet Connect to cold water source Wort Chiller cold water inlet
Wort Chiller cold water outlet
Wort Chiller wort outlet Hose to fermentation vessel
Figure 1. Knock out set up including hoses, knock out (transfer pump) and wort chiller
18. Attach a 1” grey hose from either the water drop down in Bay 4 or from the bottom of the filtered water tank also in Bay 4 (see Figures 2 and 3 for both water sources). If using the water drop down, make sure the 1” hose is long enough. Attach this water source to the wort chiller so that it runs opposite the flow of knock out. Attach a drain hose on the other end of the water source on the wort chiller.
The Hot Liquor Tank (HLT) is in Bay 4 DFH Company Confidential closest to the Brewhouse 1 black bay Revision # doors. There is usually a red hose (2”) attached to a pipe coming off of the tank. By attaching a smaller hose or filling up buckets from this hose,
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Figure 2. Hot liquor tank in Bay 4 and setup to use to use the hot water
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Filtered cold water tank, outlet at bottom (2” fitting, will need a reducer part to fit to a 1” hose)
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Cold water sources in Bay 4 include the filtered water tank (to the right of the HLT) and a water drop down connection on the wall the opposite side of Bay 4. 1” grey hoses can be found in the brewhouses or in the cellars – ask a brewer for help if you need.
Wall drop down water connection (1” fitting)
Figure 3. Cold water sources in Bay 4, the opposite end of the HLT
19. Once your boil time is up, it’s time to knock out into your carboy(s)! a. Make sure your carboy(s) are ready, as are the airlocks/lids for them. b. Is your yeast ready? Is it fluid enough to easily pitch into the wort? c. Take a post-boil/knock out gravity sample. 20. With the racking cane out of the sanitizer bucket and pointing to the floor, open Valve 1 on the kettle to start the knock out flow with gravity. You can turn on the knock out pump here, but make sure you do so AFTER Valve 1 is open. Once you see wort coming out of the racking cane, put it in the carboy. DFH Company Confidential Revision #
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21. You’re now knocking your wort out! Once your carboy(s) are full, shake up that yeast and throw it in! Make sure to spray the top of the carboy and your gloved hands with isopropyl alcohol, just to keep germs away. 22. Once the yeast is pitched, place the sanitized airlock(s) on the top (generously spraying the carboy and airlock with isopropyl alcohol), and aerate by shaking the carboy(s) around as best as you can. 23. Update your brewsheet in your team’s folder in the SB folder on the M Drive with the actual values from your brew. 24. That’s it, your wort is about to become beer! Pat yourselves on the backs, now it’s time to clean J CIP: 1. Disconnect and remove the Mash and Kettle vessels. Dump spent grain in a bucket and take out to the garbage dumpster. Take out the false bottom(s) and other small parts; clean these separately. Hosing out the vessels should be enough, however if there is anything stuck on, or stained, the SB room has proper cleaning supplies for stainless steel. DO NOT USE STEEL WOOL or CHLORINE BASED PRODUCTS (bleach). 2. Use the HLT to create a 10 gallon batch of cleaning solution (caustic chemical to be provided/in SB room) with 10 gallons water and ________ mL caustic (Avoid II). This solution can be preheated as it will aid in the cleaning process. 3. Put the Mash and Kettle vessels back in place and re-hook up. 4. Move the solution to the Mash vessel from the HLT. 5. Recirculate it to and from the Mash vessel for at least 15 minutes. 6. Move the solution over to the Kettle; let it soak for about 5 to 10 minutes. 7. While soaking, make sure your knock out lines are still set up (reset them if they were taken down); make one difference, flip the wort chiller around to into the outlet and out the inlet. After soaking the Kettle, pump the solution through the knock out pump and the wort chiller to the floor. The wort chiller will be hot to the touch here – use gloves when handling it! 8. Repeat steps 2 – 7 with cold rinse water and make sure system is rinsed thoroughly. 9. After all is said and done, open Valve 6 which is the drain valve to the whole system. DO THIS AFTER EVERY BREW SESSION as it will evacuate all liquid from the system and prevent future damage from cold or to the pump. 10. Hose/wipe down the frame/outside of the system, particularly if you had a boil over or are a messy brew team. 11. Break down all clamps and gaskets and place them in the metal mesh basket. If the large plastic cut-off tote in Bay 4 is full of liquid, hang the basket in the liquid. If it is DFH Company Confidential Revision #
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not, please email Amanda and leave the mesh basket underneath the SABCO after you’re done. 12. Wheel the SABCO back against the wall in Bay 4, and clean up all other parts, and you’re done! Please email Amanda once you have finished your Small Batch Brew. If you have questions, or if something didn’t work properly, couldn’t find something, broke something… if none of those things, just to say that you’ve finished. Then go ahead and read SOP #SB03 to care for your beer, and #SB04 for Post-Brew Day Stuff. Thanks, and hope you had a good brew day! GLOSSARY • • • • • •
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Strike water – the water initially mixed with malted grains to form the mash Grist – the grains used to create wort, can use a wide variety of ingredients Mashing in – combining the strike water and grist to create the mash at a specific temperature Mash-Off Temperature – the temperature at which enzymatic activity ceases to occur, signifying time for runoff Wort – sweet, sugary liquid formed from the starches turned into sugars from grains, combined with yeast to create beer through fermentation Lautering – separating the fermentable wort from the mash grain by creating a filter bed out of the grain on top of a false bottom; volume collected from lautering is called runoff volume and is collected in the kettle Vorlauf – German for mash recirculation (literally “leader”), the process of pulling wort from the base of the mash vessel (or lauter tun) and recirculating it back on top of the grain bed Sparging/Sparge water – hot water (specific temperature) pumped atop the lautering grain bed to push wort in the grain bed out, as well as remaining sugars in the grain Batch Sparging – pumping a specific amount of liquid atop the grain bed and stopping, allowing for a certain runoff volume to drain off the bed, until pumping more sparge water atop the grain bed DFH Company Confidential Revision #
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Stuck Mash – when wort cannot effectively run off of the grain bed due to either too finely milled grain (oatmeal bed) or too much pressure across the grain bed (too much liquid on top and not enough underneath false bottom) Gravity – the amount of sugar contained in wort, measured in degrees Plato (⁰P) as whole numbers, or specific gravity (ratio of density of wort to water, so no units) Pre-boil Volume – volume in kettle right after runoff is complete, before boil Knock Out – term to describe transferring wort from the kettle into a fermentation vessel Fermentation – the chemical breakdown of sugars by yeast to produce ethyl alcohol and carbon dioxide (CO2)
DOCUMENTATION: Brewsheet in SB folder – don’t forget to save your copy in your team’s folder with updated numbers! SAFETY: PPE – eye glasses, steel-toed boots, chemical gloves REFERENCE:
Owner Signature: Kristen Ewer
Date: 1/2/15
Technical Review:
Date: DFH Company Confidential Revision #
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Safety Review Signature:
Date:
Reviewed By Signature:
Date:
Revision History Page Rev 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14
Originator Kristen Ewer
Date 1/16/15
Description of Revision Addition of pictures and glossary
Approval: Quality:
Date:
DFH Company Confidential Revision #
