SELF- ACCEPTANCE

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THE BEAUTY BUZZ

SELFACCEPTANCE YOUNG WOMEN ARE REJECTING PERF ECTION AND EMB RACING THEIR TRUE SELVES. LOSING INTEREST IN ANTI- AGEING SKINCARE, MILLENNIALS ASK F OR AN AGE OF AUTHENTICITY.

Beauty Papers

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ANALYSIS In 2016, t h e beau t y i n du st ry wi t n essed a massi ve co n su mer at t i t u de sh i f t t o wards sel f - accept an ce. Wh et h er i t ’s t h e n o make- u p mo vemen t (ch ampi o n ed by mu si ci an Al i ci a Keys) o r t h e su d d en d ecl i n e i n an t i - ag ei n g ski n care, t ran sparen cy an d au t h en t i ci t y are n o w t ren di n g . Mi l l en n i al s dri ve t h i s ph en o men o n , t h e i n f l u en ce an d f u t u re i mpl i cat i o n s o f wh i ch are t aki n g sh ape. As ski n care sal es mu t at e f o r yo u n g er wo men , i t 's beco mi n g cl ear t h at t h ei r bu yi n g n eeds di f f er g reat l y f ro m previ o u s g en erat i o n s. " Anti -age i ng s ki nc are i s fac i ng a c hal l e nge , wi th a de c l i ne of -3. 4% be twe e n January-O c tobe r i n 2016 ve rs us l as t ye ar. And i n c ontras t, we s aw s trong growth from s e gme nts i nc l udi ng fac e mas ks ( +39%) and pri me r ( +5 8%) . T he s e produc ts foc us on fas t, i ns tant be ne fi ts , promi s i ng he al thy s ki n boos te d wi th mi ne ral s and vi tami ns , whi c h i s what Mi l l e nni al s are l ooki ng for, " s ays T e re s a F i s he r, s e ni or ac c ount manage r at T he N PD Group. Make -up s al e s i nc re as e d i n 2015 too, but purc has e s now l e an towards ac hi e vi ng a more natural l ook, as c ontouri ng – the bi gge s t be auty tre nd of re c e nt ye ars – fal te rs . " Ami d thi s s torm of e mpowe rme nt, I’ m s urpri s e d by a c uri ous l ac k of re s pons e on s oc i al me di a from c os me ti c s brands . Are the y hopi ng that i f the y i gnore i t l ong e nough, the tre nd wi l l fi z z l e out? T he y are de ad wrong. Wome n of al l age s and bac kgrounds are re j e c ti ng the fake faç ade s of the Kardas hi an c l an and e mbrac i ng re al be auty and body pos i ti vi ty, ’ wri te s Jul i a Be ardwood for F orbe s . c om.

Fault Magazine

Glossier

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Glamour

THE CONSUMER Wi th re ports that age -s pe c i al i s t produc ts have de c l i ne d for the fi rs t ti me i n two ye ars , we l e arn that Mi l l e nni al s no l onge r hol d the s ame purc has i ng habi ts as pre vi ous ge ne rati ons . " T he re ’ s thi s ove ral l s e ns e of ‘ oh, that’ s good e nough’ . It’ s l e s s about gi vi ng up and more about e mbrac i ng who you are and what you are , " Kare n Grant, gl obal be auty i ndus try anal ys t, te l l s WWD. T he has htag #mywri nkl e s are mys tri pe s has be e n tre ndi ng i n re c e nt months ac ros s s oc i al me di a pl atforms . Whi c h brands wi l l be abl e to di ge s t and adj us t to thi s ne w c ons ume r be havi our? Doc tor-brande d produc ts are a favouri te of Mi l l e nni al s , who de mand authori tati ve advi c e – wi thout s urge ry. " My pati e nts who are 45 and unde r don’ t e ve n want to c ons i de r s urge ry. T he y want to be mai ntai ne d me di c al l y wi thout the ne e d for i nvas i on, " s ays Be ve rl y H i l l s de rmatol ogi s t Dr H arol d Lanc e r. And the bi gge s t tre nd of 2015 , c ontouri ng, i s no l onge r l ove d. Wi th the has htag #nomake up c l oc ki ng up around 13m hi ts on Ins tagram al one , Mi l l e nni al wome n are re duc i ng or e l i mi nati ng the i r make -up us e as the y e mbrac e the i r true s e l ve s . A She Spe aks pol l s tate s that c l os e to 30% of wome n s ay the y woul d c ons i de r goi ng make -up-fre e for an e xte nde d pe ri od of ti me – wi th 20% al re ady de c l i ni ng to us e make -up and 25 % s ki ppi ng make -up pe ri odi c al l y.

Harper's Bazaar

Lancer Skincare

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Pixabay

THE MARKET As Mi l l e nni al s ’ ne e ds c hange , the i ndus try fol l ows s ui t. “T he pre s ti ge be auty i ndus try has re ac he d a ne w mi l e s tone , ” s ays Kare n Grant. “Ac ros s be auty, the c ate gori e s , brands and produc ts that appe al younge r have be c ome the l e ade rs of growth. N e w or onc e ove rl ooke d produc t type s are at the fore front, as are ne w or s mal l e r brands onc e thought of as l e s s s i gni fi c ant. . . In thi s e nvi ronme nt, maj or brands l ook to bui l d the i r pre s e nc e and e qui ty i n ways that re s onate wi th younge r c ons ume rs , who are not onl y fre s h to the marke t, but more mul ti ge ne rati onal i n i nfl ue nc e , mul ti nati onal and mul ti c ul tural ." At thi s ye ar's Gl obal We l l ne s s Summi t, Jac que l i ne C l arke , we l l ne s s re s e arc h di re c tor at Di agonal Re ports , s ays , " A me gatre nd unfol di ng i s we l l ne s s as be auty – or 'be auty from the i ns i de out'. And thi s dramati c al l y di ffe re nt phi l os ophy wi l l s hake up the marke ti ng s trate gi e s of the bi g c os me ti c hous e s . T he be auty-c ome s -from-wi thi n argume nt make s the c os me ti c s argume nt l ook more l i ke hype d 'hope i n a j ar'. "

Allure Magazine

But whe re doe s thi s l e ave make -up brands ? Re c e nt re s e arc h by N PD fi nds that 5 0% of UK make -up s al e s fal l i nto the fac e c ate gory – c onc e al e r, moi s turi s e r, brus he s and foundati on, wi th s al e s of l i ps ti c k and e ye s hadow fal l i ng. " F or e xampl e , make -up pri me rs have i nc re as e d by 23%, c onc e al e rs 12% and powde r by 11%, " s ays T e re s a F i s he r. Eve n i f wome n c onti nue to buy make up, the y ai m for a natural l ook. The Estee Edit

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Sephora

"MILLENNIALS HAVE EXPECTATIONS F OR QUICKER RESULTS – THEY JUST WANT IT EASY AND THEY REQUIRE COMPLETE EXPLANATIONS F OR WHY. IT’S NOT THAT THEY AREN’T WILLING TO INVEST IN ANTI- AGEING SKINCARE, B UT MORE SO THAT THEY NEED INTENSE TRAINING ON THE B ENEF ITS TO INCLINE THEM TO DO SO." ​ R HA ROLD LA NCER D ​D ERMA T OLOGIST & FOU ND ER OF LA NCER SKINCA RE

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​I NFLUENCERS H ol l ywood’ s e l i te , s upe rmode l s and bl ogge rs al l promote s e l fac c e ptanc e . Be yonc é , Sal ma H aye k and Gwyne th Pal trow s hare s e l fi e s wi thout make -up, us i ng the #N oMake Up has htag. Ac tre s s C ame ron Di az re l e as e d T he Longe vi ty Book to e nc ourage grac e ful age i ng wi thout c os me ti c s urge ry. " T he tre nd i n H ol l ywood i s l e s s and l e s s make -up, and i t’ s ge tti ng more re l aye d to the publ i c , " s ays Dr Lanc e r. Mus i c i an Al i c i a Ke ys ac ti ve l y s e l f-promote s he r de c i s i on to re move make -up from he r l i fe . In he r arti c l e for Le na Dunham’ s Le nny Le tte r, publ i s he d e arl i e r thi s ye ar, s he e xpl ai ns he r de c i s i on: " In one s ong I wrote i t s ays , 'In the morni ng from the mi nute that I wake up / What i f I don’ t want to put on al l that make -up / Who s ays I mus t c onc e al what I’ m made of / Maybe al l thi s Maybe l l i ne i s c ove ri ng my s e l f-e s te e m. ' I was re al l y s tarti ng to fe e l l i ke that – that, as I am, I was not good e nough for the worl d to s e e . " Whe n be auty bl ogge r Emi l y We i s s formul ate d he r range Gl os s i e r, s he de l i be rate l y c re ate d produc ts that produc e i ns tant re s ul ts , but al l ow the c ons ume r to we ar l e s s make -up.

Elle UK

T hi s s e l f-ac c e ptanc e goe s be yond the make -up worl d. Earl i e r thi s ye ar i n Ke nya, the fi rs t e ve r al bi no be auty c onte s t was he l d to he l p fi ght growi ng pre j udi c e . H e l d i n N ai robi , the c onte s t, Be auty Be yond Ski n, e nc ourage d me n and wome n wi th al bi ni s m, who fac e os trac i s m from c ommuni ti e s who fe ar the m, to mode l i n front of a c rowd of 1, 000 pe opl e , @camerondiaz

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@gwynethpaltrow

PRODUCTS & BRANDS As Mi l l e nni al s l ook to s mal l e r, ni c he brands , bi g be auty pl aye rs are havi ng to s te p up the i r game . C ons ume rs no l onge r want to c hange the way the y l ook; i ns te ad the y want to e nhanc e what the y’ ve got – wi th i ns tant re s ul ts from prove n me di c al s c i e nc e . Ac c ordi ng to i ndus try s ourc e s , the brand 111 Ski n, founde d by pl as ti c s urge on Yanni s Al e xandri de s , has s e e n a 142% s al e s i nc re as e s i nc e i t was founde d i n 2012. C ol be rt MD wi tne s s e d a 38% i nc re as e . Soc i al me di a i s provi ng to be the c onne c ti ng tool . Emi l y We i s s , founde r of Gl os s i e r, c i te s i t as he r brand's " numbe r-one c ommuni c ati on c hanne l " . T he younge r c ons ume r doe s n’ t ful l y be l i e ve i n c onve nti onal adve rti s i ng me thods and i ns te ad wants to j oi n a c onve rs ati on and be part of the i nfl ue nc e . Mi ya, a brand that us e s " be auty from the i ns i de out" as i ts s l ogan, l aunc he d a l i ne of te as thi s ye ar, c l ai mi ng j us t thi s . It s e l l s the range i n Anthropol ogi e and othe r outl e ts . T he As i an brand Shi s e i do l aunc he d a di gi tal -l e d brandi ng c ampai gn thi s ye ar, wi th the tagl i ne " Be auty vs the Worl d" . By as ki ng four we l l known ac tre s s e s to di s c us s the i r de fi ni ti on of be auty, the brand produc e s c onte nt that l ooks at be auty ve rs us the true s e l f, be auty ve rs us progre s s i on and more . T he brand al s o l aunc he d a s ki nc are l i ne c al l e d Ibuki , whi c h trans l ate s to i nne r s tre ngth i n Japane s e .

111Skin

Glossier

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Shiseido

CHALLENGES & FUTURE RELEVANCE T he ri s e of s e l f-ac c e ptanc e i s trans formi ng the c onve rs ati on wi thi n the be auty i ndus try. T he c hangi ng c ons ume r habi ts of Mi l l e nni al s re s ul ts i n be auty brands movi ng qui c kl y to l aunc h ne w produc ts , ai me d di re c tl y at the m. In addi ti on, the y’ re adopti ng ne w marke ti ng s trate gi e s to be abl e to s pe ak to a de mographi c that buys wi th a ne w s e t of rul e s and de mands . T he i nfl ue nc e of tre ndi ng has htags and onl i ne i nte rac ti on be twe e n c ons ume rs and i nfl ue nc e rs on s oc i al me di a i s promoti ng c hange , di ffe re nc e , ac c e ptanc e of age i ng and natural be auty. T he Pi re l l i c al e ndar for 2017 – s hot by Pe te r Li ndbe rgh – fe ature s s ome of H ol l ywood’ s mos t s uc c e s s ful ac tre s s e s pos i ng wi thout make -up. F rom Jul i anne Moore and Robi n Wri ght to N i c ol e Ki dman, e ac h i mage bre aks the moul d. " As an arti s t, I fe e l I’ m re s pons i bl e for fre e i ng wome n from the i de a of e te rnal youth and pe rfe c ti on. T he i de al of pe rfe c t be auty promote d by s oc i e ty i s s ome thi ng that s i mpl y c an’ t be attai ne d, " s ays Li ndbe rgh.

Pirelli

Mi l l e nni al s want i ns tant re s ul ts from natural or c l i ni c al produc ts , and produc ts that e nhanc e rathe r than hi de . C e l e brati ng be auty i n i ts vari ous forms i s now i nte re s ti ng and ac c e ptabl e . “F or the l as t 10 ye ars , i t’ s be e n l i ne s , wri nkl e s , l i ne s , wri nkl e s , ” s ays Kare n Grant of the N PD Group. " Mi l l e nni al s are j us t l e s s anxi ous about the l i ne s , the wri nkl e s , the gre y hai r, the natural hai r. ” Atti tude , outl ook, and be i ng yours e l f: thi s i s the ne w be auty s tandard. Glamour Magazine Paris

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