Seoul Searching
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52 WANDERLUST
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Seoul Searching Fashion, Food, and Drinks in South Korea’s Capital Seoul may top the coveted list of the most fashionable and trendy cities in Asia, but to know where to go, you need the inside scoop. Discover the city’s latest hip places and all-time favorites with this introduction to Korean fashionistas, creative designers, trendsetters and their favorite places for indulging in art and good food. Text and photos by Vincent Sung
WWW.WANDERLUSTMAG.COM
WANDERLUST 53
Travel
S
eoul, one of the five great Asian cities, bustles with a population of twenty-five million. The South Korean capital successfully attracted global attention with aggressive marketing for major events such as the 2002 FIFA World Cup and World Design Capital in 2010. It’s a city in constant motion. But to tourists from the West, Seoul remains relatively undiscovered. Many simply pass through its futuristic Incheon airport en route to the USA or Japan, without taking the time to get swept up in its dynamic streets. A delightful city awaits the tourists and expats who make Seoul their end destination.
is the president of CFDK (Council of Fashion Designers of Korea) and an international cultural Ambassador for the City of Seoul. Often nicknamed the “Korean McQueen”, Lie Sang Bong has dressed notable women such as Korea’s First Lady, Beyoncé, Rihanna, Lady Gaga, Rosario Dawson, Kelly Rowland, and Juliette Binoche.
GETTING AROUND The Han River splits Seoul into two distinctive sections: The Northern Gangbuk, which was once the seat of the Chosun dynasty and the old capital, and The Southern Gangnam district, the center of commerce made famous by Korean pop singer Psy. Navigating the two main districts is affordable and easy. The Seoul transportation system costs a little more than a dollar per trip and can carry its riders all over the city in clean comfort.
URBAN LANDSCAPE Seoul is a work in progress. Five-star hotels line broad boulevards alongside restored historic properties. It is evolving by reinterpreting a rich tradition, yet daring to dazzle with bold experimentation. Just in the past five years, Seoul has been injected with a newfound sense of style and purpose and has taken on a cultural renaissance. World-famous architects such as Mario Botta, Jean Nouvel, Zaha Hadid, Rem Koolhaas and Daniel Libeskind first reshaped and revitalized Seoul’s urban landscape. Local architects and designers have continued the work those starchitects began and went beyond the aesthetic benchmarks set by the previous government.
LIE SANG BONG Internationally recognized artist, and one of Korea’s pioneering fashion designers, Lie Sang Bong founded his eponymous brand, LIE SANG BONG, in 1985. This entrepreneur began his career by creating couture garments for private clients at his humble atelier in Seoul. In 1993, he presented his first ready-to-wear collection, “The Reincarnation,” during SFAA collections. Recognized for its distinctive style, blending traditional influences and innovative techniques, he became quickly internationally recognized for his architectural collections celebrating and enhancing the feminine body. “Fashion is where art and industry converge. It allows me to combine diverse influences and personal passions including Korean poetry, calligraphy, architecture, Cubism, Bauhaus design, 1930’s Film Noir heroines, and the natural world. My garment construction is approached from an architectural perspective; silhouettes are built out from Bauhaus-influenced geometric shapes,” says Mr. Lie. Aiming at expanding his brand worldwide, LIE SANG BONG began to show his Paris Prêt-a-Porter collections in 2002 and then has continued at Mercedes-Benz Fashion week in New York from 2014 to the present day. An influential artistic and cultural figure in South Korea, he currently 54 WANDERLUST
GLAM “My favorite places for a drink are both located in Itaewon. Glam is where the internationally educated Koreans rub shoulders with well-dressed expats and women showing their latest accessories,” declares designer Lie Sang Bong. This luxury lounge, located in the District behind Hamilton hotel, is adorned in black marble highlighted by golden accents and candles scattered around the main bar. Comfortable seating, exclusive private areas and a large bullet-shaped bar sets the scene for an intimate night of mingling with Seoul’s beautiful people. Accompanying the opulent interior of Glam, it offers guests VIP semi-private seating indoors and outdoors in their adjacent multi-level garden gallery. The chic lounge restaurant serves a contemporary menu expanding the definition of Japanese and Asian tapas and complementing their selection of specialty cocktails, wine, champagne, and spirits. It is important to note that this is one of the few places in Seoul where smoking indoors is permitted.
MY SWEET Another pick from Lie Sang Bong, My Sweet, is a dessert cafe and restobar located in the recent adjunctions of Itaewon, near a Yongsan-gu office owned by Hong Seokcheon. A famous Korean entertainer, comedian and entrepreneur, Hong Seok-cheon was the first gay man ‘to
Travel come out of the closet’ in conservative Korean society. My Sweet features three floors spread across a wide corner building. The roof opens up only for a special event or a party. The interior has unique touches with artwork and carefully selected furniture. Original artworks by celebrated pop artist Nancy Lang can be found on display throughout the space. The overall venue has a more casual atmosphere, especially in the basement where a ‘fun and even wild’ party can start spontaneously.
KIM YONG-HO A famous and acclaimed Korean commercial photographer since the 90’s, Kim Yong-ho has become a household name for Korea’s fashion photography. He was awarded “Photographer of the Year” from Harper’s Bazaar Korea and served as head of Korea’s fashion photographer association for the past six years. He is still actively involved in commercial photography with brands ranging from Mercedes-Benz and Hyundai to Salvatore Ferragamo.
since December 1999. Palais de Gaumont is a French classic haute cuisine restaurant with décor inspired by French palaces and libraries from the Victorian era. The owner, Seo Hyun-min, majored in film and named the restaurant after Leon Gaumont, a pioneer of motion picture technology, and the Gaumont Palace. The entrance is magnificent yet elegant, and the interior design is classic with subdued lights and an overall French retro feel. The classy restaurant serves elaborately presented French-themed set menus made with quality ingredients changed seasonally (six courses set menu fixed price at 135,000 won). Along with a legendary selection of wines, this is the perfect place to take a date or to bring your future business partners.
TUTTO BENE Opened since 2007, Tutto Bene is the second restaurant by the talented Mr. Seo. Unlike the recent trend of creating open and light-filled spaces in restaurants, Tutto Bene is more reminiscent of a mansion of an eccentric collector from the 80’s. A narrow space featuring old train booths is often fully booked, and its strength lies in the in-house reinterpretations of Italian cooking. Fresh handmade fettuccine cooked al dente and served with grated Parmesan, egg yolk, sage and butter is among the top favorites. With the know-how inherited from Palais de Gaumont, the wine selection is as impressive as its sister restaurant.
GRANDMOTHER
915 INDUSTRY GALLERY Kim’s exhibition / photo studio space 915 Industry Gallery, hosts edgy photography exhibitions and serves as an informal cultural incubator. Mr. Kim is synonymous with the cultural era in Cheongdam-dong in Southern Seoul, once the most fashion-oriented area in the capital, to the minds of those in their 30’s and 40’s. Once a restaurateur, Kim founded and ran Cafe de Flore, a restaurant, wine bar and cafe that was a hot spot among celebrities and locals. After several successful years, he sold it to Kim Young-hee, a famous restaurateur and mother of the famed singer Psy, in order to focus on his fine art photography.
PALAIS DE GAUMONT Kim Yong-ho’s favorite place of all time is also located in Cheongdam-dong and has been at the same location
You Ji-young, a multi-talented artist and fashion designer, reopened Grandmother, her famous staple wine bar in March 2016. Previously located on Garosugil Road in Sinsa-dong, which has become an overpriced trendy neighborhood over the last ten years, her place finally found its perfect location in the Cheongdam area. In her new home, You created a multifunctional space where fashion, party, concert and culture blend together in harmony. Just as its name implies, Grandmother is a homey restaurant and wine bar where the fusion cuisine focuses on sharing rather than individual dishes. The interior is a reflection of her personality and great taste. The elegant, sensual venue is decorated with her paintings. Blue and purple fabrics that she personally dyed are draped at strategic locations, while some of her haute couture dresses hang nonchalantly next to antique wooden doors. Subdued lighting, grand chandeliers, and mismatched chairs create a distinct atmosphere, in line with her unique personality. WANDERLUST 55
Travel The menu leans toward Asian fusion and Korean favorites, and tasty side dishes go well with the carefully chosen wine list (two reds and two whites) or the best seller: Lady of Spain cava (60,000 won / bottle), a sexy bottle of Spanish sparkling. They also carry the best gins, two types of champagne, and high quality Korean spirits.
PIZZA MUZZO Recently opened in the heart of Itaewon, Pizza Muzzo celebrates contemporary, ingredient-focused cooking.
SHOP IN FORÊT One of the nation’s foremost experts in the makeup field, Lee Kyung-min, recently renovated the first floor of her prestigious building Forêt and opened a curated multi-brand shop named Shop in Forêt, which displays her personally selected limited edition items. From Korean traditional brass kitchenware reinterpreted with a modern twist, to cute gift objects, unique wallpaper, or digitized artsy LCD displays, these items are sourced locally as well as from Denmark, Italy, Canada and the USA. Lee Kyung-min, however, ensures that her prices are below the current offerings in other similar shops in this affluent Cheongdam-dong district. Included in this store is top-quality florist Helena Flowers and a small café with a terrace to enjoy a cup of tea or coffee while browsing the mini art gallery or shopping for a tasteful gift.
GWIBUIN Jennifer’s Model Academy director, Bae Young-min, (or Peter Bae) recommends a small, cozy bar located in Hannam-dong. Gwibuin or ‘Femme Distinguée’ (elegant lady) just opened at the beginning of March 2016. The owner, Shin Gui-ran, who is very much involved in fashion as the manager of several Korean top models, wanted a convivial and intimate place to drink with fashion industry colleagues and friends. She made it happen with Gwibuin.
Executive Chef, Cristian Gallarello, hailing from Torino, Italy, has reimagined Italian classics by adding new flavors to traditional Italian recipes and family secrets. The sleek industrial-style restaurant, reminiscent of a London train station, serves rustic pizzas made from traditional, seasonal ingredients with homemade dough. Cooked in a specially made wood-brick oven, the signature dish “Romeo Pizza” is a favorite amongst the hip Koreans who flock to the place every night. The menu also offers fresh antipasti, handmade pastas, and seasonal specials. 56 WANDERLUST
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Travel
SATTO Up on the second floor in the same building as Pizza Muzzo, another world lies at the upscale bar Satto. Very private and offering an immediate sense of occasion and glamour, the venue is split into three distinct sections, each with their own feeling and design. As you enter through the sliding door, there is a large central bar and a marble-tiled hall; opposite is a covered terrace that resembles a Mediterranean balcony. Next to the DJ table, up a short flight of stairs, there is a more intimate yet exquisite setting, Satto Orient Express. Shaped and decorated as the modern version of the famed train, the chic atmosphere guarantees enjoyment in the most luxurious fashion. About twenty signature cocktails are on offer and are made using the freshest ingredients available. The talented female bartenders can recommend or tailor a cocktail to your specific taste, but the “Smoked Gin” is a must-try. This contemporary speakeasy lounge is the perfect place for enjoying comfortable yet refined selections of alcohol with Seoul’s premier crowd. The local artists, designers and trendsetters of Seoul have spoken. With this guide, visitors to Seoul can unearth little-known gems only true locals know (for now)! WWW.WANDERLUSTMAG.COM
WANDERLUST 57
52 WANDERLUST
WWW.WANDERLUSTMAG.COM
Travel
Seoul Searching Fashion, Food, and Drinks in South Korea’s Capital Seoul may top the coveted list of the most fashionable and trendy cities in Asia, but to know where to go, you need the inside scoop. Discover the city’s latest hip places and all-time favorites with this introduction to Korean fashionistas, creative designers, trendsetters and their favorite places for indulging in art and good food. Text and photos by Vincent Sung
WWW.WANDERLUSTMAG.COM
WANDERLUST 53
Travel
S
eoul, one of the five great Asian cities, bustles with a population of twenty-five million. The South Korean capital successfully attracted global attention with aggressive marketing for major events such as the 2002 FIFA World Cup and World Design Capital in 2010. It’s a city in constant motion. But to tourists from the West, Seoul remains relatively undiscovered. Many simply pass through its futuristic Incheon airport en route to the USA or Japan, without taking the time to get swept up in its dynamic streets. A delightful city awaits the tourists and expats who make Seoul their end destination.
is the president of CFDK (Council of Fashion Designers of Korea) and an international cultural Ambassador for the City of Seoul. Often nicknamed the “Korean McQueen”, Lie Sang Bong has dressed notable women such as Korea’s First Lady, Beyoncé, Rihanna, Lady Gaga, Rosario Dawson, Kelly Rowland, and Juliette Binoche.
GETTING AROUND The Han River splits Seoul into two distinctive sections: The Northern Gangbuk, which was once the seat of the Chosun dynasty and the old capital, and The Southern Gangnam district, the center of commerce made famous by Korean pop singer Psy. Navigating the two main districts is affordable and easy. The Seoul transportation system costs a little more than a dollar per trip and can carry its riders all over the city in clean comfort.
URBAN LANDSCAPE Seoul is a work in progress. Five-star hotels line broad boulevards alongside restored historic properties. It is evolving by reinterpreting a rich tradition, yet daring to dazzle with bold experimentation. Just in the past five years, Seoul has been injected with a newfound sense of style and purpose and has taken on a cultural renaissance. World-famous architects such as Mario Botta, Jean Nouvel, Zaha Hadid, Rem Koolhaas and Daniel Libeskind first reshaped and revitalized Seoul’s urban landscape. Local architects and designers have continued the work those starchitects began and went beyond the aesthetic benchmarks set by the previous government.
LIE SANG BONG Internationally recognized artist, and one of Korea’s pioneering fashion designers, Lie Sang Bong founded his eponymous brand, LIE SANG BONG, in 1985. This entrepreneur began his career by creating couture garments for private clients at his humble atelier in Seoul. In 1993, he presented his first ready-to-wear collection, “The Reincarnation,” during SFAA collections. Recognized for its distinctive style, blending traditional influences and innovative techniques, he became quickly internationally recognized for his architectural collections celebrating and enhancing the feminine body. “Fashion is where art and industry converge. It allows me to combine diverse influences and personal passions including Korean poetry, calligraphy, architecture, Cubism, Bauhaus design, 1930’s Film Noir heroines, and the natural world. My garment construction is approached from an architectural perspective; silhouettes are built out from Bauhaus-influenced geometric shapes,” says Mr. Lie. Aiming at expanding his brand worldwide, LIE SANG BONG began to show his Paris Prêt-a-Porter collections in 2002 and then has continued at Mercedes-Benz Fashion week in New York from 2014 to the present day. An influential artistic and cultural figure in South Korea, he currently 54 WANDERLUST
GLAM “My favorite places for a drink are both located in Itaewon. Glam is where the internationally educated Koreans rub shoulders with well-dressed expats and women showing their latest accessories,” declares designer Lie Sang Bong. This luxury lounge, located in the District behind Hamilton hotel, is adorned in black marble highlighted by golden accents and candles scattered around the main bar. Comfortable seating, exclusive private areas and a large bullet-shaped bar sets the scene for an intimate night of mingling with Seoul’s beautiful people. Accompanying the opulent interior of Glam, it offers guests VIP semi-private seating indoors and outdoors in their adjacent multi-level garden gallery. The chic lounge restaurant serves a contemporary menu expanding the definition of Japanese and Asian tapas and complementing their selection of specialty cocktails, wine, champagne, and spirits. It is important to note that this is one of the few places in Seoul where smoking indoors is permitted.
MY SWEET Another pick from Lie Sang Bong, My Sweet, is a dessert cafe and restobar located in the recent adjunctions of Itaewon, near a Yongsan-gu office owned by Hong Seokcheon. A famous Korean entertainer, comedian and entrepreneur, Hong Seok-cheon was the first gay man ‘to
Travel come out of the closet’ in conservative Korean society. My Sweet features three floors spread across a wide corner building. The roof opens up only for a special event or a party. The interior has unique touches with artwork and carefully selected furniture. Original artworks by celebrated pop artist Nancy Lang can be found on display throughout the space. The overall venue has a more casual atmosphere, especially in the basement where a ‘fun and even wild’ party can start spontaneously.
KIM YONG-HO A famous and acclaimed Korean commercial photographer since the 90’s, Kim Yong-ho has become a household name for Korea’s fashion photography. He was awarded “Photographer of the Year” from Harper’s Bazaar Korea and served as head of Korea’s fashion photographer association for the past six years. He is still actively involved in commercial photography with brands ranging from Mercedes-Benz and Hyundai to Salvatore Ferragamo.
since December 1999. Palais de Gaumont is a French classic haute cuisine restaurant with décor inspired by French palaces and libraries from the Victorian era. The owner, Seo Hyun-min, majored in film and named the restaurant after Leon Gaumont, a pioneer of motion picture technology, and the Gaumont Palace. The entrance is magnificent yet elegant, and the interior design is classic with subdued lights and an overall French retro feel. The classy restaurant serves elaborately presented French-themed set menus made with quality ingredients changed seasonally (six courses set menu fixed price at 135,000 won). Along with a legendary selection of wines, this is the perfect place to take a date or to bring your future business partners.
TUTTO BENE Opened since 2007, Tutto Bene is the second restaurant by the talented Mr. Seo. Unlike the recent trend of creating open and light-filled spaces in restaurants, Tutto Bene is more reminiscent of a mansion of an eccentric collector from the 80’s. A narrow space featuring old train booths is often fully booked, and its strength lies in the in-house reinterpretations of Italian cooking. Fresh handmade fettuccine cooked al dente and served with grated Parmesan, egg yolk, sage and butter is among the top favorites. With the know-how inherited from Palais de Gaumont, the wine selection is as impressive as its sister restaurant.
GRANDMOTHER
915 INDUSTRY GALLERY Kim’s exhibition / photo studio space 915 Industry Gallery, hosts edgy photography exhibitions and serves as an informal cultural incubator. Mr. Kim is synonymous with the cultural era in Cheongdam-dong in Southern Seoul, once the most fashion-oriented area in the capital, to the minds of those in their 30’s and 40’s. Once a restaurateur, Kim founded and ran Cafe de Flore, a restaurant, wine bar and cafe that was a hot spot among celebrities and locals. After several successful years, he sold it to Kim Young-hee, a famous restaurateur and mother of the famed singer Psy, in order to focus on his fine art photography.
PALAIS DE GAUMONT Kim Yong-ho’s favorite place of all time is also located in Cheongdam-dong and has been at the same location
You Ji-young, a multi-talented artist and fashion designer, reopened Grandmother, her famous staple wine bar in March 2016. Previously located on Garosugil Road in Sinsa-dong, which has become an overpriced trendy neighborhood over the last ten years, her place finally found its perfect location in the Cheongdam area. In her new home, You created a multifunctional space where fashion, party, concert and culture blend together in harmony. Just as its name implies, Grandmother is a homey restaurant and wine bar where the fusion cuisine focuses on sharing rather than individual dishes. The interior is a reflection of her personality and great taste. The elegant, sensual venue is decorated with her paintings. Blue and purple fabrics that she personally dyed are draped at strategic locations, while some of her haute couture dresses hang nonchalantly next to antique wooden doors. Subdued lighting, grand chandeliers, and mismatched chairs create a distinct atmosphere, in line with her unique personality. WANDERLUST 55
Travel The menu leans toward Asian fusion and Korean favorites, and tasty side dishes go well with the carefully chosen wine list (two reds and two whites) or the best seller: Lady of Spain cava (60,000 won / bottle), a sexy bottle of Spanish sparkling. They also carry the best gins, two types of champagne, and high quality Korean spirits.
PIZZA MUZZO Recently opened in the heart of Itaewon, Pizza Muzzo celebrates contemporary, ingredient-focused cooking.
SHOP IN FORÊT One of the nation’s foremost experts in the makeup field, Lee Kyung-min, recently renovated the first floor of her prestigious building Forêt and opened a curated multi-brand shop named Shop in Forêt, which displays her personally selected limited edition items. From Korean traditional brass kitchenware reinterpreted with a modern twist, to cute gift objects, unique wallpaper, or digitized artsy LCD displays, these items are sourced locally as well as from Denmark, Italy, Canada and the USA. Lee Kyung-min, however, ensures that her prices are below the current offerings in other similar shops in this affluent Cheongdam-dong district. Included in this store is top-quality florist Helena Flowers and a small café with a terrace to enjoy a cup of tea or coffee while browsing the mini art gallery or shopping for a tasteful gift.
GWIBUIN Jennifer’s Model Academy director, Bae Young-min, (or Peter Bae) recommends a small, cozy bar located in Hannam-dong. Gwibuin or ‘Femme Distinguée’ (elegant lady) just opened at the beginning of March 2016. The owner, Shin Gui-ran, who is very much involved in fashion as the manager of several Korean top models, wanted a convivial and intimate place to drink with fashion industry colleagues and friends. She made it happen with Gwibuin.
Executive Chef, Cristian Gallarello, hailing from Torino, Italy, has reimagined Italian classics by adding new flavors to traditional Italian recipes and family secrets. The sleek industrial-style restaurant, reminiscent of a London train station, serves rustic pizzas made from traditional, seasonal ingredients with homemade dough. Cooked in a specially made wood-brick oven, the signature dish “Romeo Pizza” is a favorite amongst the hip Koreans who flock to the place every night. The menu also offers fresh antipasti, handmade pastas, and seasonal specials. 56 WANDERLUST
WWW.WANDERLUSTMAG.COM
Travel
SATTO Up on the second floor in the same building as Pizza Muzzo, another world lies at the upscale bar Satto. Very private and offering an immediate sense of occasion and glamour, the venue is split into three distinct sections, each with their own feeling and design. As you enter through the sliding door, there is a large central bar and a marble-tiled hall; opposite is a covered terrace that resembles a Mediterranean balcony. Next to the DJ table, up a short flight of stairs, there is a more intimate yet exquisite setting, Satto Orient Express. Shaped and decorated as the modern version of the famed train, the chic atmosphere guarantees enjoyment in the most luxurious fashion. About twenty signature cocktails are on offer and are made using the freshest ingredients available. The talented female bartenders can recommend or tailor a cocktail to your specific taste, but the “Smoked Gin” is a must-try. This contemporary speakeasy lounge is the perfect place for enjoying comfortable yet refined selections of alcohol with Seoul’s premier crowd. The local artists, designers and trendsetters of Seoul have spoken. With this guide, visitors to Seoul can unearth little-known gems only true locals know (for now)! WWW.WANDERLUSTMAG.COM
WANDERLUST 57
