SNOW OR AVALANCHE, WEATHER, POOR POSI ...
FALL ON ROCK/SNOW OR AVALANCHE, WEATHER, POOR POSITION Washington, Mount Index
On February 4, 1984, Philip G. W hite (27) and Eve D earborne (34), both employees of the M arm ot M ountain Works in Bellevue and Seattle residents, planned to make a winter ascent of a previously unclimbed route up the couloir that divides the middle peak from the main peak on the west side of M ount Index. Both were reported to have been excellent climbers, with W hite specializing in ice. They left for the climb after work on Friday, February 3, planning to go up Anderson Creek and complete the ascent on the 4th, with a bivouac either on the sum m it or on the descent. W hen they failed to return, Lach M iller of M arm ot M ountain Works phoned Om e Daiber for advice on how to proceed. This resulted in Terry W hite, Philip’s wife, contacting the Snohomish County Sheriff for help early on M onday afternoon. Sgt. John Taylor and Tom Barr flew the m ountain, but the weather was m arginal and they were unable to locate anything of significance. W hile this was going on, the vehicle was located at road end. Sgt. Taylor contacted George Sainsbury at 2110 for M RC support, and a full scale callout was initiated with a rendezvous for 0430 at Woodinville and a 0600 arrival at the K O A cam pground near Anderson Creek. An M RC team led by Al Errington was sent to Lake Serene and on up the standard route to the summit. An M RC team led by John M arts was sent up Anderson Creek to follow the proposed route of the party. An M RC team under Dennis Fensterm aker was held at base for im m ediate insertion by helicopter when a find was made. An Everett M RU team was dispatched up the west side of M ount Perses and into the saddle to check out footprints that had been seen from the air the preceeding day. Tom Barr arrived with the helicopter at 0724 and started the air search with Sgt. Taylor at 0730. At 0737 the fatally injured climbers were located at the 950 m eter level in a narrow gully
just south of the couloir that they were thought to have been attem pting. A helicopter evacuation was completed by late morning. (Source: Bergtrage, M ountain Rescue Council, Seattle, 84-01, M arch 1984)
Analysis
We will never know if the accident was caused by falling rock, snow, or ice, or by a slip on rock or snow. But we do know that the weather was a factor. It was clear and warm , and that turned the whole gully into a potential bowling alley. (Source: George Sainsbury, Seattle M RC)
On February 4, 1984, Philip G. W hite (27) and Eve D earborne (34), both employees of the M arm ot M ountain Works in Bellevue and Seattle residents, planned to make a winter ascent of a previously unclimbed route up the couloir that divides the middle peak from the main peak on the west side of M ount Index. Both were reported to have been excellent climbers, with W hite specializing in ice. They left for the climb after work on Friday, February 3, planning to go up Anderson Creek and complete the ascent on the 4th, with a bivouac either on the sum m it or on the descent. W hen they failed to return, Lach M iller of M arm ot M ountain Works phoned Om e Daiber for advice on how to proceed. This resulted in Terry W hite, Philip’s wife, contacting the Snohomish County Sheriff for help early on M onday afternoon. Sgt. John Taylor and Tom Barr flew the m ountain, but the weather was m arginal and they were unable to locate anything of significance. W hile this was going on, the vehicle was located at road end. Sgt. Taylor contacted George Sainsbury at 2110 for M RC support, and a full scale callout was initiated with a rendezvous for 0430 at Woodinville and a 0600 arrival at the K O A cam pground near Anderson Creek. An M RC team led by Al Errington was sent to Lake Serene and on up the standard route to the summit. An M RC team led by John M arts was sent up Anderson Creek to follow the proposed route of the party. An M RC team under Dennis Fensterm aker was held at base for im m ediate insertion by helicopter when a find was made. An Everett M RU team was dispatched up the west side of M ount Perses and into the saddle to check out footprints that had been seen from the air the preceeding day. Tom Barr arrived with the helicopter at 0724 and started the air search with Sgt. Taylor at 0730. At 0737 the fatally injured climbers were located at the 950 m eter level in a narrow gully
just south of the couloir that they were thought to have been attem pting. A helicopter evacuation was completed by late morning. (Source: Bergtrage, M ountain Rescue Council, Seattle, 84-01, M arch 1984)
Analysis
We will never know if the accident was caused by falling rock, snow, or ice, or by a slip on rock or snow. But we do know that the weather was a factor. It was clear and warm , and that turned the whole gully into a potential bowling alley. (Source: George Sainsbury, Seattle M RC)
