spices , herbs , specialties
CRAVE
The Feast of the 5ive Senses
S P I C E S, H E R B S, S P E C I A L T I E S
PART
III
spices
I AM FASCINATED WITH SPICES, FROM BOTH A HISTORICAL AND A CULINARY POINT OF VIEW. ANCIENT ROMANS DEMANDED PEPPER AS TRIBUTE FROM THEIR SUBJECTS. IN THE MIDDLE AGES, SPICES WERE USED FOR MONEY, AND MANY ADVENTURERS RISKED LIFE AND LIMB, SAILING INTO TREACHEROUS WATERS AND SOJOURNING TO MYSTERIOUS REGIONS TO ACQUIRE THEM. IT’S ALMOST AS IF SPICES HAVE A MAGIC HOLD OVER US. IN COOKING, THEY CAN MAKE ALL THE DIFFERENCE, TURNING SOMETHING ORDINARY INTO SOMETHING MAGICAL. YOU MAY NOT BE ABLE TO FIND MANY OF THE SPICES WE USE HERE AT THE GROCERY STORE, BUT DON’T WORRY. IF YOU’RE LUCKY ENOUGH TO LIVE IN A CITY WITH A SPICE STORE, BY ALL MEANS TAKE ADVANTAGE OF IT. THE SPICES WILL BE FRESHER, THE SELECTION WIDER, THE QUALITY BETTER, AND BELIEVE IT OR NOT, THE PRICES ARE LIKELY TO BE LOWER. OTHERWISE, THE INTERNET IS LADEN WITH NUMEROUS SHOPPING SITES FEATURING SPICES, AND FROM THESE, ALONG WITH SPICE HOUSES THAT DO MAIL ORDER, YOU CAN GET JUST ABOUT ANYTHING. THIS HOLDS TRUE FOR A NUMBER OF OTHER INGREDIENTS CALLED FOR IN THIS BOOK THAT AT FIRST GLANCE MAY SEEM HARD TO FIND. BE SURE TO CHECK THE RESOURCE GUIDE ON PAGE 246. IT’S ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL TO USE THE BEST SPICES YOU CAN FIND; QUALITY MAKES ALL THE DIFFERENCE. ALTHOUGH MANY PEOPLE LIKE TO TOAST THEIR SPICES THESE DAYS, BELIEVING IT BRINGS OUT THE FLAVOR, IN MOST CASES I PREFER NOT TO; I THINK THEY’RE BETTER FRESH. ALL SPICES SHOULD BE FRESHLY GROUND, THOUGH, AS SHORTLY BEFORE USING AS POSSIBLE. A FINAL THOUGHT: GROUND SPICES LOSE THEIR FLAVOR WHEN COOKED. I GENERALLY PREFER TO GIVE MY FOOD A DUSTING WITH THEM AFTER COOKING. THAT WAY YOU GET THE FULL INTENSITY OF THEIR FLAVOR.
21
CRAVE
The Feast of the 5ive Senses
HERE ARE A FEW OF MY FAVORITE SPICES:
C a r a w a y s e e d . Related to cumin, the caraway seed is aromatic and slightly fruity, with a strong hint of anise. It adds verve to cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, zucchini, and potatoes. One of my favorite uses for it is with lamb, such as in Rack of Lamb with Broth, Baby Vegetables, and Caraway Seeds on page 204.
C a r d a m o m . If you’ve had the now-popular Chai tea, you’ve tasted cardamom, a spice that combines hints of camphor, citrus, and bergamot. There are three types of cardamom: green (the most common), black, and white, though white is nearly impossible to find. Following the Indian tradition, I use green cardamom mostly for desserts. Black cardamom has a more smoky, minty character, and it is good with stronger meats like lamb and wild game, and stronger fish such as anchovies. Cardamom pods can be used whole, as with Chanterelles with Vinegar and Green Cardamom on page 132, or the seeds may be removed and ground and the pods discarded, as with Red Wine–Poached Beef with Star Anise, Long Pepper, and Cardamom Infusion on page 140. If grinding cardamom, toast the pods and using a pestle, bruise the shells and discard them, then grind the seeds to a fine powder. I like to dust fish and meat with it after cooking, but be careful because a little goes a long way.
C i n n a m o n . One of the most popular spices in the world, cinnamon is most typically added to desserts, but it’s also wonderful with chicken and legumes. I find that it blends well with salty foods, particularly shellfish (see Glazed Langoustines with Ceylon Cinnamon and Fried Angel Hair Pasta with Clams on page 210). In my opinion, cinnamon from Ceylon is the best in the world. Cinnamon sticks are actually the dried bark of a tropical evergreen tree, and the best are somewhat soft and have tender skin.
F l e u r d e s e l . All salt is not created equal, and my strong preference is for fleur de sel (flower of salt). Fleur de sel is sea salt that has been slowly evaporated in clay beds. After a few weeks, the fine, lacy crystals that rise to the top like cream are skimmed off, and that is the fleur de sel. Its flavor is more nuanced and less aggressive than any other salt, and it’s healthier, due to its lower level of sodium chloride. Because it retains the moisture of the sea, its grains have a tendency to stick together. I recommend spreading it out on a baking sheet and drying it in a 300-degree oven for forty minutes, which will cause it to clump into a gravelly mass. After it is dry, break it into pieces and grind it in a food processor until the granules are fine but not powdered. This will improve the flavor and allow it to infuse better. (You can do this with the entire container and store it for later use.)
22
CRAVE
The Feast of the 5ive Senses
G i n g e r . This may be my favorite spice of all. It’s peppery, aromatic, pungent, slightly bitter, and floral, all at the same time. You can use it with almost anything, and in any way: fresh, dried, or even candied. To test its range, try Sweetbreads with Ginger, Licorice, Roasted Pears, and Lemon Confit on page 97, and Cod Crusted with Ginger, Almonds, and Sesame Seeds with Baby Tomatoes and Candied Ginger on page 213. For a completely different application, see Bavaroise of Goat Cheese with Onions, Beets, and Candied Ginger on page 42.
L o n g p e p p e r . I fell in love with this Indian black pepper ever since my spice supplier introduced me to it a couple of years ago. It has a sharp flavor and a light floral aroma, and is somewhat bitter and slightly sweet. It will give a mildly acid taste to marinades. It is best when coarsely ground. To experience it, try Roast Beef with Long Pepper and Spiced French Fries on page 170.
M a c e . The outer membrane of the nutmeg seed, mace is usually sold ground, but I prefer to buy it whole (in which case it’s known as “blade” mace) and then grind it into a powder. A bit stronger than nutmeg, it’s a piquant but delicate spice, with a hint of hazelnuts. It’s good for infusing broths. It also goes well with chicken, pork, and veal, and with potatoes, such as in Potato Cake with Onions on page 85.
S a f f r o n . One of the most difficult spices to describe, saffron is truly unique; there’s really nothing else you can compare it to. Use it sparingly; its taste is more of a whisper than an announcement, yet it can overpower anything that comes into contact with it. It adds panache to seafood dishes, and it is wonderful with lentils and rice. For a less typical application, try the Lemon Sorbet with Saffron on page 230.
S t a r a n i s e . Native to China, star anise is the seed found in the pods of the Badian tree, a small evergreen related to the magnolia. It has the same essential oil as anise and fennel, but it’s quite powerful, so be careful when using it. Star anise is best when coarsely ground; then it becomes a textural component in addition to providing flavor, as in King Crab with Avocado Mousse and Water
24
Spices, Herbs, & Specialties
of Tomato and Star Anise on page 44.
V a n i l l a . Vanilla is one of the most primary spices, yet it is incredibly difficult to describe. Many flavor sensations and aromas are compared to vanilla, but to what can you compare vanilla? If you’ve only used vanilla extract in the past, you’re in for a surprise when you use the whole bean. The difference is huge. In my opinion, the best beans come from Madagascar and Tahiti. Vanilla is more versatile than most people imagine. If you thought vanilla was only for use in desserts, check out Salad of Tomato Confit with Basil and Mint and Vanilla and Raspberry Balsamic Vinaigrette on page 91, and Gently Cooked Ahi Infused with Vanilla on page 102. Vanilla beans are quite expensive, so I recommend keep-
25
herbs
ing the vanilla pod after you’ve scraped out and used the seeds, drying it for one hour in a 300-degree oven, and grinding it into a powder for later use.
26
Spices, Herbs, & Specialties
FRESH HERBS ARE AN ESSENTIAL COMPONENT OF MY COOKING. THEY ALLOW US TO COOK SIMPLY, WITH CLEAN, UNCLUTTERED FLAVORS, WHILE PROVIDING ANY NUMBER OF SURPRISES FOR THE PALATE. FOR THE MOST PART, I DON’T LIKE TO COOK HERBS; THEY’RE MUCH MORE EFFECTIVE WHEN ADDED RAW AT THE LAST MINUTE SO THEY RETAIN THEIR COLOR AND PUNGENCY. FARMERS’ MARKETS HAVE GREATLY EXPANDED THE SELECTION OF HERBS AVAILABLE TO THE HOME COOK. HERE ARE A FEW OF MY FAVORITES:
27
specialties
C h i v e s . Chives add zest to cheese, such as fromage blanc; spice up salads; and add sparkle to eggs, as you’ll discover with Eggs Caviar on page 162. Though members of the onion family, chives are much more subtle. I use them to season sauces and sprinkle on meat and fish. Chives are especially delicate, so always add them at the last minute.
L e m o n v e r b e n a . An amazingly versatile herb, with a strong, citrusy perfume and delicately bitter aftertaste, lemon verbena gives chicken an aromatic tanginess and provides a sharp high note for desserts.
28
Spices, Herbs, & Specialties
L e m o n g r a s s . A staple of Thai and other Asian cuisines, lemongrass imbues any kind of seafood with an irresistible bang of citrus, combined with a hint of ginger, as in Caramelized Black Sea Bass with Lemongrass-Infused Consommé, Clams, and Basil on page 57.
S o r r e l . Popular in France for centuries, sorrel is a slightly sour, leafy green, visually resembling spinach. It mades a wonderful salad and goes well with fish, as in Whole Dorade with Salt Crust, Yellow Wine Sauce, and Sorrel Salad on page 174.
T a r r a g o n . If you’ve only used dried tarragon in the past, the herb in its fresh form will surprise you with its delicate, savory flavor. Its properties are shown off to fine effect in Whole Lobster Cooked in Salt and Tarragon on page 166. The scent and flavor of tarragon always transport me to the south of France.
T h y m e . Another widely used herb in its dried form, thyme is even better fresh, and less likely to overpower a dish. It marries well with almost anything, from veal, chicken, and pork to tomatoes. The recipe for Young Garlic Soup with Thyme, Scallops, and Gold Leaf, on page 165, is a good demonstration of its amiable nature.
29
The Feast of the 5ive Senses
S P I C E S, H E R B S, S P E C I A L T I E S
PART
III
spices
I AM FASCINATED WITH SPICES, FROM BOTH A HISTORICAL AND A CULINARY POINT OF VIEW. ANCIENT ROMANS DEMANDED PEPPER AS TRIBUTE FROM THEIR SUBJECTS. IN THE MIDDLE AGES, SPICES WERE USED FOR MONEY, AND MANY ADVENTURERS RISKED LIFE AND LIMB, SAILING INTO TREACHEROUS WATERS AND SOJOURNING TO MYSTERIOUS REGIONS TO ACQUIRE THEM. IT’S ALMOST AS IF SPICES HAVE A MAGIC HOLD OVER US. IN COOKING, THEY CAN MAKE ALL THE DIFFERENCE, TURNING SOMETHING ORDINARY INTO SOMETHING MAGICAL. YOU MAY NOT BE ABLE TO FIND MANY OF THE SPICES WE USE HERE AT THE GROCERY STORE, BUT DON’T WORRY. IF YOU’RE LUCKY ENOUGH TO LIVE IN A CITY WITH A SPICE STORE, BY ALL MEANS TAKE ADVANTAGE OF IT. THE SPICES WILL BE FRESHER, THE SELECTION WIDER, THE QUALITY BETTER, AND BELIEVE IT OR NOT, THE PRICES ARE LIKELY TO BE LOWER. OTHERWISE, THE INTERNET IS LADEN WITH NUMEROUS SHOPPING SITES FEATURING SPICES, AND FROM THESE, ALONG WITH SPICE HOUSES THAT DO MAIL ORDER, YOU CAN GET JUST ABOUT ANYTHING. THIS HOLDS TRUE FOR A NUMBER OF OTHER INGREDIENTS CALLED FOR IN THIS BOOK THAT AT FIRST GLANCE MAY SEEM HARD TO FIND. BE SURE TO CHECK THE RESOURCE GUIDE ON PAGE 246. IT’S ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL TO USE THE BEST SPICES YOU CAN FIND; QUALITY MAKES ALL THE DIFFERENCE. ALTHOUGH MANY PEOPLE LIKE TO TOAST THEIR SPICES THESE DAYS, BELIEVING IT BRINGS OUT THE FLAVOR, IN MOST CASES I PREFER NOT TO; I THINK THEY’RE BETTER FRESH. ALL SPICES SHOULD BE FRESHLY GROUND, THOUGH, AS SHORTLY BEFORE USING AS POSSIBLE. A FINAL THOUGHT: GROUND SPICES LOSE THEIR FLAVOR WHEN COOKED. I GENERALLY PREFER TO GIVE MY FOOD A DUSTING WITH THEM AFTER COOKING. THAT WAY YOU GET THE FULL INTENSITY OF THEIR FLAVOR.
21
CRAVE
The Feast of the 5ive Senses
HERE ARE A FEW OF MY FAVORITE SPICES:
C a r a w a y s e e d . Related to cumin, the caraway seed is aromatic and slightly fruity, with a strong hint of anise. It adds verve to cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, zucchini, and potatoes. One of my favorite uses for it is with lamb, such as in Rack of Lamb with Broth, Baby Vegetables, and Caraway Seeds on page 204.
C a r d a m o m . If you’ve had the now-popular Chai tea, you’ve tasted cardamom, a spice that combines hints of camphor, citrus, and bergamot. There are three types of cardamom: green (the most common), black, and white, though white is nearly impossible to find. Following the Indian tradition, I use green cardamom mostly for desserts. Black cardamom has a more smoky, minty character, and it is good with stronger meats like lamb and wild game, and stronger fish such as anchovies. Cardamom pods can be used whole, as with Chanterelles with Vinegar and Green Cardamom on page 132, or the seeds may be removed and ground and the pods discarded, as with Red Wine–Poached Beef with Star Anise, Long Pepper, and Cardamom Infusion on page 140. If grinding cardamom, toast the pods and using a pestle, bruise the shells and discard them, then grind the seeds to a fine powder. I like to dust fish and meat with it after cooking, but be careful because a little goes a long way.
C i n n a m o n . One of the most popular spices in the world, cinnamon is most typically added to desserts, but it’s also wonderful with chicken and legumes. I find that it blends well with salty foods, particularly shellfish (see Glazed Langoustines with Ceylon Cinnamon and Fried Angel Hair Pasta with Clams on page 210). In my opinion, cinnamon from Ceylon is the best in the world. Cinnamon sticks are actually the dried bark of a tropical evergreen tree, and the best are somewhat soft and have tender skin.
F l e u r d e s e l . All salt is not created equal, and my strong preference is for fleur de sel (flower of salt). Fleur de sel is sea salt that has been slowly evaporated in clay beds. After a few weeks, the fine, lacy crystals that rise to the top like cream are skimmed off, and that is the fleur de sel. Its flavor is more nuanced and less aggressive than any other salt, and it’s healthier, due to its lower level of sodium chloride. Because it retains the moisture of the sea, its grains have a tendency to stick together. I recommend spreading it out on a baking sheet and drying it in a 300-degree oven for forty minutes, which will cause it to clump into a gravelly mass. After it is dry, break it into pieces and grind it in a food processor until the granules are fine but not powdered. This will improve the flavor and allow it to infuse better. (You can do this with the entire container and store it for later use.)
22
CRAVE
The Feast of the 5ive Senses
G i n g e r . This may be my favorite spice of all. It’s peppery, aromatic, pungent, slightly bitter, and floral, all at the same time. You can use it with almost anything, and in any way: fresh, dried, or even candied. To test its range, try Sweetbreads with Ginger, Licorice, Roasted Pears, and Lemon Confit on page 97, and Cod Crusted with Ginger, Almonds, and Sesame Seeds with Baby Tomatoes and Candied Ginger on page 213. For a completely different application, see Bavaroise of Goat Cheese with Onions, Beets, and Candied Ginger on page 42.
L o n g p e p p e r . I fell in love with this Indian black pepper ever since my spice supplier introduced me to it a couple of years ago. It has a sharp flavor and a light floral aroma, and is somewhat bitter and slightly sweet. It will give a mildly acid taste to marinades. It is best when coarsely ground. To experience it, try Roast Beef with Long Pepper and Spiced French Fries on page 170.
M a c e . The outer membrane of the nutmeg seed, mace is usually sold ground, but I prefer to buy it whole (in which case it’s known as “blade” mace) and then grind it into a powder. A bit stronger than nutmeg, it’s a piquant but delicate spice, with a hint of hazelnuts. It’s good for infusing broths. It also goes well with chicken, pork, and veal, and with potatoes, such as in Potato Cake with Onions on page 85.
S a f f r o n . One of the most difficult spices to describe, saffron is truly unique; there’s really nothing else you can compare it to. Use it sparingly; its taste is more of a whisper than an announcement, yet it can overpower anything that comes into contact with it. It adds panache to seafood dishes, and it is wonderful with lentils and rice. For a less typical application, try the Lemon Sorbet with Saffron on page 230.
S t a r a n i s e . Native to China, star anise is the seed found in the pods of the Badian tree, a small evergreen related to the magnolia. It has the same essential oil as anise and fennel, but it’s quite powerful, so be careful when using it. Star anise is best when coarsely ground; then it becomes a textural component in addition to providing flavor, as in King Crab with Avocado Mousse and Water
24
Spices, Herbs, & Specialties
of Tomato and Star Anise on page 44.
V a n i l l a . Vanilla is one of the most primary spices, yet it is incredibly difficult to describe. Many flavor sensations and aromas are compared to vanilla, but to what can you compare vanilla? If you’ve only used vanilla extract in the past, you’re in for a surprise when you use the whole bean. The difference is huge. In my opinion, the best beans come from Madagascar and Tahiti. Vanilla is more versatile than most people imagine. If you thought vanilla was only for use in desserts, check out Salad of Tomato Confit with Basil and Mint and Vanilla and Raspberry Balsamic Vinaigrette on page 91, and Gently Cooked Ahi Infused with Vanilla on page 102. Vanilla beans are quite expensive, so I recommend keep-
25
herbs
ing the vanilla pod after you’ve scraped out and used the seeds, drying it for one hour in a 300-degree oven, and grinding it into a powder for later use.
26
Spices, Herbs, & Specialties
FRESH HERBS ARE AN ESSENTIAL COMPONENT OF MY COOKING. THEY ALLOW US TO COOK SIMPLY, WITH CLEAN, UNCLUTTERED FLAVORS, WHILE PROVIDING ANY NUMBER OF SURPRISES FOR THE PALATE. FOR THE MOST PART, I DON’T LIKE TO COOK HERBS; THEY’RE MUCH MORE EFFECTIVE WHEN ADDED RAW AT THE LAST MINUTE SO THEY RETAIN THEIR COLOR AND PUNGENCY. FARMERS’ MARKETS HAVE GREATLY EXPANDED THE SELECTION OF HERBS AVAILABLE TO THE HOME COOK. HERE ARE A FEW OF MY FAVORITES:
27
specialties
C h i v e s . Chives add zest to cheese, such as fromage blanc; spice up salads; and add sparkle to eggs, as you’ll discover with Eggs Caviar on page 162. Though members of the onion family, chives are much more subtle. I use them to season sauces and sprinkle on meat and fish. Chives are especially delicate, so always add them at the last minute.
L e m o n v e r b e n a . An amazingly versatile herb, with a strong, citrusy perfume and delicately bitter aftertaste, lemon verbena gives chicken an aromatic tanginess and provides a sharp high note for desserts.
28
Spices, Herbs, & Specialties
L e m o n g r a s s . A staple of Thai and other Asian cuisines, lemongrass imbues any kind of seafood with an irresistible bang of citrus, combined with a hint of ginger, as in Caramelized Black Sea Bass with Lemongrass-Infused Consommé, Clams, and Basil on page 57.
S o r r e l . Popular in France for centuries, sorrel is a slightly sour, leafy green, visually resembling spinach. It mades a wonderful salad and goes well with fish, as in Whole Dorade with Salt Crust, Yellow Wine Sauce, and Sorrel Salad on page 174.
T a r r a g o n . If you’ve only used dried tarragon in the past, the herb in its fresh form will surprise you with its delicate, savory flavor. Its properties are shown off to fine effect in Whole Lobster Cooked in Salt and Tarragon on page 166. The scent and flavor of tarragon always transport me to the south of France.
T h y m e . Another widely used herb in its dried form, thyme is even better fresh, and less likely to overpower a dish. It marries well with almost anything, from veal, chicken, and pork to tomatoes. The recipe for Young Garlic Soup with Thyme, Scallops, and Gold Leaf, on page 165, is a good demonstration of its amiable nature.
29
