Street Kitchen

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Food RESTAURANT OF THE WEEK

Street Kitchen London Fields ‡ 381 Mentmore Terrace, E8 3PH. London Fields Overground.

WHAT IS IT... A lunch-only outpost of Street Kitchenís ëgourmet-to-goí gang

ONCE UPON A TIME , not so long ago, railway arches were the hangout of mechanics alone. Now the fact that this one sells excellent vegan and gluten-free apple cake ain’t even newsworthy. But a place doesn’t necessarily need a hook to be worth a visit, it just has to be doing everything right. London-based chefs Jun Tanaka and Mark Jankel started Street Kitchen in a shiny silver Airstream back in !009 with the aim of making gourmet food more accessible. Now they’ve got two Airstreams and a permanent spot in the City as well as this new one in London Fields. The menu is uncomplicated but so appealing; they’re dishing up the sort of food Nigella might serve

WHY GO... For wholesome hugs on a plate.

to her kids. Hot smoked salmon with soft, savoury crushed new potatoes, buttery but still healthytasting greens and chunks of sweet, firm beetroot makes for the sort of stomach-filler that makes you feel nourished as well as hugged. If fish is too wholesome then go for the flavour-packed but impressively light lamb meatballs with fruited couscous, or fill up on cake; Jackie

Lee is Street Kitchen’s resident baker and her sweet treats are irresistible. The aforementioned apple cake is the sort that’s stealthy-healthy – I didn’t order it for its free-from credentials and would order it again in spite of them. This branch of Street Kitchen is currently lunch-only, but when it starts serving dinners it’ll be an excellent upgrade for east

Londoners who want the comfort of high-class home cooking without the trip to M&S. And until then, as long as you don’t mind sharing the bright, cosy space with a few pushchairs and a rotating queue of local workers, this is a lunch spot that is definitely doing everything right. ■ Ashleigh Arnott

Lunch for two with drinks and service: around £25.

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Time Out London June 14 ñ 20 2016

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10/06/2016 13:47

10.06.2016

13:49