Tasermiut Fjord, Nalumatorsoq, Stupid White Man, attempt
Tasermiut Fjord, Nalum atorsoq, Stupid W hite M an, attem pt; Ulamertorssuaq, War and Poetry, attem pt. W awrzyniec “Wawa” Zakrzew ski and I have clim bed in Patagonia, Yosemite, an d the T rango Tower area o f Pakistan. Last year we visited G reenland, from late July till late August. O u t o f the 26 days th at we sp en t in th e T aserm iut, it rain ed on 20. T hree tim es we attem p ted the new G erm an route, S tupid W hite M an on N alum atorsoq, b u t each tim e we were defeated by rain. The route is nice and follows a logical line up a contin u o u s crack system. All pitches are difficult, and even the easiest involve offw idths. O n o u r first attem p t we clim bed th e first five
pitches onsight, th o u g h the last, w hich we felt was 5 .1 1+, we led w ith rest points. O n o u r sec ond attem p t we clim bed the first five pitches on o u r first try b u t only m anaged th e sixth pitch on the fo u rth attem pt. We felt this pitch to be 5.12b. The next tw o pitches we clim bed onsight, b u t the n in th was very vegetated, an d we spent th ree h o u rs aiding and cleaning it, before m ak ing a re d p o in t at 5.12a. O nce again we were forced dow n by rain. O n o u r th ird an d final a ttem p t we clim bed each o f the in itial n ine pitches o n o u r first try, an d th en c o n tin u ed up a straightforw ard 10th pitch before again being defeated by rain. We gave up an d decided to go to U lam ertorssuaq. O n the big west face we clim bed the first 16 pitches (the b olted ones) o f W ar and Poetry onsight at 5.12b. However, th e 17th pitch, rated 12c, we only got on o u r second go. We then clim bed two m ore difficult offwidths before it got dark and from o u r high point m ade four rap pels to the Black H eart Ledge, w here we bivouacked. D u rin g the nig h t it rained, so we bailed, rappelling to the g ro u n d in tw o hours. For o u r trip we used th e services o f T ierras Polares, by w hom we w ere given considerable assistance. We really reco m m en d this o rg an izatio n — great service at a great price. M a c ie k C ie s ie l s k i , Poland
pitches onsight, th o u g h the last, w hich we felt was 5 .1 1+, we led w ith rest points. O n o u r sec ond attem p t we clim bed the first five pitches on o u r first try b u t only m anaged th e sixth pitch on the fo u rth attem pt. We felt this pitch to be 5.12b. The next tw o pitches we clim bed onsight, b u t the n in th was very vegetated, an d we spent th ree h o u rs aiding and cleaning it, before m ak ing a re d p o in t at 5.12a. O nce again we were forced dow n by rain. O n o u r th ird an d final a ttem p t we clim bed each o f the in itial n ine pitches o n o u r first try, an d th en c o n tin u ed up a straightforw ard 10th pitch before again being defeated by rain. We gave up an d decided to go to U lam ertorssuaq. O n the big west face we clim bed the first 16 pitches (the b olted ones) o f W ar and Poetry onsight at 5.12b. However, th e 17th pitch, rated 12c, we only got on o u r second go. We then clim bed two m ore difficult offwidths before it got dark and from o u r high point m ade four rap pels to the Black H eart Ledge, w here we bivouacked. D u rin g the nig h t it rained, so we bailed, rappelling to the g ro u n d in tw o hours. For o u r trip we used th e services o f T ierras Polares, by w hom we w ere given considerable assistance. We really reco m m en d this o rg an izatio n — great service at a great price. M a c ie k C ie s ie l s k i , Poland
