Fashion Concepts and Theories Chapter 1 and Lecture Notes The Fashion Impulse FSN 223: Dr. Ben Barry
i.
Investigating the Fashion Impulse (p19)
Clothing is a complex system of cultural communication. Expresses collective and individual identity, part of social performance Some argue that fashion is a cultural practice that coincides with capitalism and consumer culture (we argue against this notion) Fashionable impulses: constantly changing stylistic registers The label of “customary dress” ignores individuality Examples of early fashion shaped by individual taste: Europe, Canadian fur trade, Japanese fashions in tattooing, etc. o
Show that fashion impulses were not much different from those of today
Individual taste has been limited historically with sumptuary laws
ii. Color and Fashion Throughout Time (p34)
Color has historically been used to identify hierarchy or symbolism in societies i. Cost of dyes tied together color and social elites ii. Chinese mourning rituals
Lecture Notes: Explore relationships between fashion and :
Sociology Psychology Anthropology Fine art Business History
Lecture topics:
The Fashion Impulse: difference between “fashion”, “dress”, “clothing”. Does fashion exist outside consumer culture? Fashion Cycles, Symbols, and Flows: how does fashion borrow from history? Semiotic perspectives, the diffusion of a style Fashion and Representation: how does fashion communicate ideas about sexuality, race, gender, class, etc. The Eurocentric Fashion System: the emergence of fashion capitals, Canadian fashion Fashion, Body Techniques and Identity: how do we use fashion to express our identity?
Fashion, Aesthetics, and Art: can fashion be seen as high art? Fashion as a Business and Cultural Industry: fashion marketing, business statistics Popular Culture and Fashion: emergence of user-generated content The Politics of Fashion: criticism of industry standards, exploitation, labor, etc
The Fashion Impulse:
Key Terms: o o o
Dress vs. Fashion vs. Style Fad (short term style) vs. Trend (direction fashion is moving) vs. Classic (timeless) Anti-Fashion (an outfit considered outside of fashion) vs. Fashionable (conforms to fashion)
Fashion can emerge from a style that’s initially considered anti-fashion
3 Main Elements of Fashion i. Fashion is a system of communication
convey our identity, class, etc. message changes over time
ii. Fashion helps us define ourselves individually and collectively
Can be reflective of self esteem Desire to stand out or blend in
iii. The Essence of Fashion is Change
The fashion impulse: see p 20, p 48 for full definition o
o o
constantly changing clothing codes and stylistic registers that balance the impulse to belong to a group and the individual desire to stand out the fashion paradox: balance between individual and group identity, current and classic, etc. sumptuary laws, dress regulation
Does fashion exist beyond consumer culture? o
Historical influences
Does fashion exist beyond western culture? o
Conventions that other cultures did not adapt fashions until western influence
Ex: Aboriginal beaded moccasins, Japanese kimonos