The Fashion Impulse

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Fashion Concepts and Theories Chapter 1 and Lecture Notes The Fashion Impulse FSN 223: Dr. Ben Barry

i.

Investigating the Fashion Impulse (p19)      

Clothing is a complex system of cultural communication. Expresses collective and individual identity, part of social performance Some argue that fashion is a cultural practice that coincides with capitalism and consumer culture (we argue against this notion) Fashionable impulses: constantly changing stylistic registers The label of “customary dress” ignores individuality Examples of early fashion shaped by individual taste: Europe, Canadian fur trade, Japanese fashions in tattooing, etc. o



Show that fashion impulses were not much different from those of today

Individual taste has been limited historically with sumptuary laws

ii. Color and Fashion Throughout Time (p34) 

Color has historically been used to identify hierarchy or symbolism in societies i. Cost of dyes tied together color and social elites ii. Chinese mourning rituals

Lecture Notes:  Explore relationships between fashion and :       

Sociology Psychology Anthropology Fine art Business History

Lecture topics:     

The Fashion Impulse: difference between “fashion”, “dress”, “clothing”. Does fashion exist outside consumer culture? Fashion Cycles, Symbols, and Flows: how does fashion borrow from history? Semiotic perspectives, the diffusion of a style Fashion and Representation: how does fashion communicate ideas about sexuality, race, gender, class, etc. The Eurocentric Fashion System: the emergence of fashion capitals, Canadian fashion Fashion, Body Techniques and Identity: how do we use fashion to express our identity?

   

Fashion, Aesthetics, and Art: can fashion be seen as high art? Fashion as a Business and Cultural Industry: fashion marketing, business statistics Popular Culture and Fashion: emergence of user-generated content The Politics of Fashion: criticism of industry standards, exploitation, labor, etc

The Fashion Impulse: 

Key Terms: o o o

Dress vs. Fashion vs. Style Fad (short term style) vs. Trend (direction fashion is moving) vs. Classic (timeless) Anti-Fashion (an outfit considered outside of fashion) vs. Fashionable (conforms to fashion) 



Fashion can emerge from a style that’s initially considered anti-fashion

3 Main Elements of Fashion i. Fashion is a system of communication  

convey our identity, class, etc. message changes over time

ii. Fashion helps us define ourselves individually and collectively  

Can be reflective of self esteem Desire to stand out or blend in

iii. The Essence of Fashion is Change



The fashion impulse: see p 20, p 48 for full definition o

o o



constantly changing clothing codes and stylistic registers that balance the impulse to belong to a group and the individual desire to stand out the fashion paradox: balance between individual and group identity, current and classic, etc. sumptuary laws, dress regulation

Does fashion exist beyond consumer culture? o

Historical influences



Does fashion exist beyond western culture? o

Conventions that other cultures did not adapt fashions until western influence 

Ex: Aboriginal beaded moccasins, Japanese kimonos