THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY INNOVATION & COMMUNICATION
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY INNOVATION & COMMUNICATION Raniero De Stasio Scientific and Regulatory Affairs Director L’Oreal Europe
OUR MISSION TO OFFER WOMEN AND MEN THE WORLD OVER THE BEST QUALITY, QUALITY MOST EFFECTIVE, SAFEST COSMETICS AND THEREBY SATISFY ALL THEIR BEAUTY NEEDS AND DESIRES IN ALL THEIR INFINITE DIVERSITY.
> 100 YEARS RESEARCH
L’OREAL
THE L’OREAL GROUP RESEARCH
A DRIVING FORCE BEHIND INNOVATION A KEY FOR GROWTH
L’OREAL
L’OREAL RESEARCH KEY FIGURES 2009
609 Millions Euros 3313 PEOPLE 674 PATENTS 100 COLLABORATIONS 80 PUBLICATIONS
L’OREAL
RESEARCH & EVALUATION CENTERS
18 RESEARCH CENTERS
13 EVALUATION CENTERS
EFFICACY EVALUATION PROCESS
In vitro Cell culture, reconstructed skin… In vivo Biological clinical prooff Consumer ttests C t multicentric
Typical numbers of people exposed to a product in research and marketing studies prior to launch = “the body of evidence” 1000 900 800 700 600 500 people
400 300 200 100 0 Discovery Form. Dev Proof of Concept (in vitro)
Clinical trials
Mkt tst Controlled Subjective Tests
Consmr Tsts Subjective tests
BREAKTHROUGH INNOVATION & COMMUNICATION NANOSOMES MEXORYL SX XL AMINEXIL CERAMIDE R
PROXYLANE SKINOMICS STEM CELLS
Delivery vectors
UVA photostabe sun filter
Anti hair loss
The intercellular ‘glue’
Anti-ageing
Screening g tool Reactivating Youth Proteins
“Pampering” Stem Cells to reactivate youth
“Here comes the science bit … concentrate!” (Jennifer Aniston 1997)
RESEARCH CORE ACTIVITIES SKIN CARE APPLIED RESEARCH
HAIR CARE
ADVANCED RESEARCH S C
APPLIED RESEARCH
MAKE UP L’OREAL
SKIN
SKIN
A tissue …with mechanical properties…
SKIN
A living organ… able to tan,, to age g and that we can reconstruct in vitro
EPISKIN IN VITRO RECONSTITUTED SKIN FROM TISSUE ENGINEERING 1975 FIRST IN VITRO MODEL KERATINOCYTES OVER 3T3 FIBROBLASTS 1979 FIRST TRUE SKIN IN A PETRI DISH INCLUDING ‘HORNY HORNY LAYER’ LAYER (DED IDEA) 1986 MELANOCYTES ‘ADDED’ 1992 SKIN TISSUE GROWTH IN VITRO 99 EPISKIN S ACQUISITION CQU S O FROM O 1997 IMEDEX 1998 ECVAM VALIDATON FOR SKIN CORROSION 2006 SKINETHIC ACQUISITION 2007 ECVAM VALIDATION FOR SKIN IRRITATION
L’OREAL
Film Episkin
INNOVATION… in SKIN CARE 10 years RESEARCH in GENOMICS, PROTEOMICS
DISCOVERY : GENE EXPRESSION
Aged subjects Young subjects
≠
Transcriptomic SIGNATURE
≠
Proteic SIGNATURE
≠
ANSWER after a stress
INNOVATION… in SKIN CARE
> NEW TARGETS for ACTIVE INGREDIENTS SCREENING
>N NEW W SSTRATEGIES G S to PREVENT, REPAIR, CORRECT
PRESERVE SKIN YOUTH BIOLOGICAL AGE < CHRONOLOGICAL AGE
A NOVEL ANTI-AGEING «ENGINE »: PRO XYLANE – A « GREEN CHEMISTRY » ACTIVE PRO-XYLANE
L’OREAL
PRO-XYLANE DISCOVERY
TARGETING THE EXTRACELLULAR MATRIX OF THE DERMIS
Skin structure L’OREAL
PRO-XYLANE AN ECOFRIENDLY INGREDIENT
GREEN
DISCOVERY
CHEMISTRY
L’OREAL
PRO-XYLANE
L’OREAL
Derma Genesis TV Advert 2007
PHOTOSTABLE SUN FILTERS A difficult idea to communicate to consumers 2006 - EU labelling recommendation: “photostability” one of the key properties 2007 – Garnier Ambre Solaire TV Campaign
Garnier Ambre Solaire 2007
HAIR
HAIR
A fibre … with mechanical properties… A living organ
INNOVATION…in HAIR COLOUR REINVENTING HAIR DYES Without ODOUR With t INCONVENIENCE Without Without COMPROMISING on results
A TECHNOLOGICAL CHALLENGE A SOLUTION : O.D.S. A KEY : THE SCIENCE OF EMULSIONS
INNOVATION…in HAIR COLOUR Oil Delivery System
OIL in WATER
WATER in OIL
INVERSING PROPORTIONS OF WATER AND OIL PHASES => EFFICACY OF HAIR DYES
COLOUR BIOLOGICAL colour CHEMICAL colour: dyes, y , pigments pg STRUCTURAL colour: colour without pigments
INNOVATION… in COLOUR
TODA HYBRID PIGMENTS
WHAT YOU SEE IS WHAT YOU GET!
Shu Uemura …
L’OREAL
INNOVATION…in MAKE UP
Horny layer Epidermis
Upper dermis
Deep dermis
Light / Matter Interaction
Toda Pigments
How does the future of beauty look like?
CONCLUSIONS • SCIENCE WORKS WELL IN COMMUNICATIONS • WE LIKE TO FIND THE “FUSION OF POETRY & SCIENCE” TO COMMUNICATE SCIENCE TO OUR CONSUMERS • WE “PUSH THE BOUNDARY” OF SCIENTIFIC COMMUNICATIONS ON EACH KEY INNOVATION WE CREATE • YOU CAN EXPECT MORE INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS (AND COMMUNICATIONS) FROM L’OREAL FOR THE FUTURE!
THANK YOU! ANY QUESTIONS?
OUR MISSION TO OFFER WOMEN AND MEN THE WORLD OVER THE BEST QUALITY, QUALITY MOST EFFECTIVE, SAFEST COSMETICS AND THEREBY SATISFY ALL THEIR BEAUTY NEEDS AND DESIRES IN ALL THEIR INFINITE DIVERSITY.
> 100 YEARS RESEARCH
L’OREAL
THE L’OREAL GROUP RESEARCH
A DRIVING FORCE BEHIND INNOVATION A KEY FOR GROWTH
L’OREAL
L’OREAL RESEARCH KEY FIGURES 2009
609 Millions Euros 3313 PEOPLE 674 PATENTS 100 COLLABORATIONS 80 PUBLICATIONS
L’OREAL
RESEARCH & EVALUATION CENTERS
18 RESEARCH CENTERS
13 EVALUATION CENTERS
EFFICACY EVALUATION PROCESS
In vitro Cell culture, reconstructed skin… In vivo Biological clinical prooff Consumer ttests C t multicentric
Typical numbers of people exposed to a product in research and marketing studies prior to launch = “the body of evidence” 1000 900 800 700 600 500 people
400 300 200 100 0 Discovery Form. Dev Proof of Concept (in vitro)
Clinical trials
Mkt tst Controlled Subjective Tests
Consmr Tsts Subjective tests
BREAKTHROUGH INNOVATION & COMMUNICATION NANOSOMES MEXORYL SX XL AMINEXIL CERAMIDE R
PROXYLANE SKINOMICS STEM CELLS
Delivery vectors
UVA photostabe sun filter
Anti hair loss
The intercellular ‘glue’
Anti-ageing
Screening g tool Reactivating Youth Proteins
“Pampering” Stem Cells to reactivate youth
“Here comes the science bit … concentrate!” (Jennifer Aniston 1997)
RESEARCH CORE ACTIVITIES SKIN CARE APPLIED RESEARCH
HAIR CARE
ADVANCED RESEARCH S C
APPLIED RESEARCH
MAKE UP L’OREAL
SKIN
SKIN
A tissue …with mechanical properties…
SKIN
A living organ… able to tan,, to age g and that we can reconstruct in vitro
EPISKIN IN VITRO RECONSTITUTED SKIN FROM TISSUE ENGINEERING 1975 FIRST IN VITRO MODEL KERATINOCYTES OVER 3T3 FIBROBLASTS 1979 FIRST TRUE SKIN IN A PETRI DISH INCLUDING ‘HORNY HORNY LAYER’ LAYER (DED IDEA) 1986 MELANOCYTES ‘ADDED’ 1992 SKIN TISSUE GROWTH IN VITRO 99 EPISKIN S ACQUISITION CQU S O FROM O 1997 IMEDEX 1998 ECVAM VALIDATON FOR SKIN CORROSION 2006 SKINETHIC ACQUISITION 2007 ECVAM VALIDATION FOR SKIN IRRITATION
L’OREAL
Film Episkin
INNOVATION… in SKIN CARE 10 years RESEARCH in GENOMICS, PROTEOMICS
DISCOVERY : GENE EXPRESSION
Aged subjects Young subjects
≠
Transcriptomic SIGNATURE
≠
Proteic SIGNATURE
≠
ANSWER after a stress
INNOVATION… in SKIN CARE
> NEW TARGETS for ACTIVE INGREDIENTS SCREENING
>N NEW W SSTRATEGIES G S to PREVENT, REPAIR, CORRECT
PRESERVE SKIN YOUTH BIOLOGICAL AGE < CHRONOLOGICAL AGE
A NOVEL ANTI-AGEING «ENGINE »: PRO XYLANE – A « GREEN CHEMISTRY » ACTIVE PRO-XYLANE
L’OREAL
PRO-XYLANE DISCOVERY
TARGETING THE EXTRACELLULAR MATRIX OF THE DERMIS
Skin structure L’OREAL
PRO-XYLANE AN ECOFRIENDLY INGREDIENT
GREEN
DISCOVERY
CHEMISTRY
L’OREAL
PRO-XYLANE
L’OREAL
Derma Genesis TV Advert 2007
PHOTOSTABLE SUN FILTERS A difficult idea to communicate to consumers 2006 - EU labelling recommendation: “photostability” one of the key properties 2007 – Garnier Ambre Solaire TV Campaign
Garnier Ambre Solaire 2007
HAIR
HAIR
A fibre … with mechanical properties… A living organ
INNOVATION…in HAIR COLOUR REINVENTING HAIR DYES Without ODOUR With t INCONVENIENCE Without Without COMPROMISING on results
A TECHNOLOGICAL CHALLENGE A SOLUTION : O.D.S. A KEY : THE SCIENCE OF EMULSIONS
INNOVATION…in HAIR COLOUR Oil Delivery System
OIL in WATER
WATER in OIL
INVERSING PROPORTIONS OF WATER AND OIL PHASES => EFFICACY OF HAIR DYES
COLOUR BIOLOGICAL colour CHEMICAL colour: dyes, y , pigments pg STRUCTURAL colour: colour without pigments
INNOVATION… in COLOUR
TODA HYBRID PIGMENTS
WHAT YOU SEE IS WHAT YOU GET!
Shu Uemura …
L’OREAL
INNOVATION…in MAKE UP
Horny layer Epidermis
Upper dermis
Deep dermis
Light / Matter Interaction
Toda Pigments
How does the future of beauty look like?
CONCLUSIONS • SCIENCE WORKS WELL IN COMMUNICATIONS • WE LIKE TO FIND THE “FUSION OF POETRY & SCIENCE” TO COMMUNICATE SCIENCE TO OUR CONSUMERS • WE “PUSH THE BOUNDARY” OF SCIENTIFIC COMMUNICATIONS ON EACH KEY INNOVATION WE CREATE • YOU CAN EXPECT MORE INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS (AND COMMUNICATIONS) FROM L’OREAL FOR THE FUTURE!
THANK YOU! ANY QUESTIONS?
