Tirich Mir Attempt. Bill Dunaway, Chuck Hall, Fritz Stammberger, Vern ...

Tirich M ir A ttem p t. Bill D unaw ay, Chuck Hall, F ritz Stamm berger, V ern Read and I attem pted the South Barum G lacier route followed by the successful Norw egian party in 1950. W e organized the trip in less than a m onth. A fter leaving Aspen on M ay 5, we were at Base Cam p at 11,400 feet on M ay 11. Cam p I at 14,500 feet was set up in three days. Camps II and III (17,000 and 19,500 feet) were established w ithout porters. Baseless snow m ade all progress laborious and especially tedious in reaching the saddle, the 21,500-foot site for Cam p IV. Heavy snowfall during the night produced endless avalanches from all flanks of the peak. We could not w ait for im proved conditions and in three days were back in lovely C hitral and the airport on June 4. D a v id M i c h a e l