Warp yarns
Textiles Lecture Week 8 Leno weave: “Figure 8” - Used to create decorative effects - Fabrics are open and lacey - Warp yarns not parallel - Groups of warp yarns twist in a figure 8 - Weft yearns are inserted through figure 8 - Used for drapery, thermal blankets - Also to create chenille yarns - Special attachment, from plain weave loom, called duke attachment, is used to create this weave Pile weave fabrics - Made with 3 sets of yarns - Background warp, background weft - And raised pile loops - Loops may be cut or uncut - Loops may be various heights - Loops may be crushed or flattened - Terrycloth - Polar fleece Durability: - Influenced by: o Density of the pile o Fibre content o ‘V” or “W” cut pile o With the nat: with the grain o Against the nat: against the grain o Three different ways to create a pile fabric o Weft pile fabrics o – Extra set of weft yarns float on surface o Cut after weaving to produce the pile o Corduroy: weft floats in lengthwise rows o Alternating with no pile rows o In velveteen weft floats are scattered Difference between velvet: pile is shorter, less plushy, more compact o Creating an overall uniform pile Warp Pile Fabric - Double cloth method o Two layers of fabric woven on the loom o One above the other o A yarn joins both layers o Cut apart to create two fabrics o Joining yarn creates the pile
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Wire pile method o As fabric is woven o A wire is inserted into the weft direction o Warp floats must pass over the wire o This wire has a knife edge o Wire is removed and cuts the float yarns o Forming the pile o Lab book page 56. - Slack tension method o Certain warp yarns controlled o At certain points during weaving o They are let off and slacken o They form the pile loops o Loops may be on both sides or one side o Loops may be cut o Creates terry cloth Seersucker - A non pile fabric - Made with the slack pile method - Loom holds alternating groups of yarns - In regular or slack tension - Fabric that has a striped, puckered effect Plisse -
Look is similar to seersucker A chemical finish is applied to the fabric In stripes Causes some areas to shrink Area between these stripes puckers up Will flatten and may be ironed out
Dobby Weaves - Clip spot (face) - An extra yarn floats across the fabric - Woven in a certain interval - Floats may be cut - Leaving small figures with a frayed edge - On one edge of the fabric - Produce a small woven in figure - Often geometric in shape - Include bird’s eye - Waffle - Huckaback Dotted Swiss - Used for gowns, wedding - White with small white spots
Jacquard - Large, woven in designs - Produced on a jacquard loom - Made up f a variety f weaves - Plain, rib, twill, satin, and sateen - Durability varies, it depends on Damask - A reversible flat jacquard fabric Brocade (face) - There are multiple colored yarns used within the weave Tapestry - Stiff and heavy - Uses multiple sets of warp and weft yarns Matelassé - Quilted look - Three dimensional effect - Seen most often in bedding - Highly twisted Mamie (Crepe) Weave - Identified by random floats - Pebbly, crinkled, or seeded surface - Random float - Small floats have no apparent patter Pique - A fabric with a raised surface - Three dimensional - Small geometric pattern - In the category of dobby weaves - Includes sand crepe, moss crepe, and granite crepe True Crepe - Created using a plain weave - Using very high twist yarns (>65 tpi) - Yarns do not lie flat - Creating a pebbled surface - Includes chiffon and georgette - Less stable - Have more shrinkage, - Softer, more drape FINAL EXAM: Saturday December 8th, 9am
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Wire pile method o As fabric is woven o A wire is inserted into the weft direction o Warp floats must pass over the wire o This wire has a knife edge o Wire is removed and cuts the float yarns o Forming the pile o Lab book page 56. - Slack tension method o Certain warp yarns controlled o At certain points during weaving o They are let off and slacken o They form the pile loops o Loops may be on both sides or one side o Loops may be cut o Creates terry cloth Seersucker - A non pile fabric - Made with the slack pile method - Loom holds alternating groups of yarns - In regular or slack tension - Fabric that has a striped, puckered effect Plisse -
Look is similar to seersucker A chemical finish is applied to the fabric In stripes Causes some areas to shrink Area between these stripes puckers up Will flatten and may be ironed out
Dobby Weaves - Clip spot (face) - An extra yarn floats across the fabric - Woven in a certain interval - Floats may be cut - Leaving small figures with a frayed edge - On one edge of the fabric - Produce a small woven in figure - Often geometric in shape - Include bird’s eye - Waffle - Huckaback Dotted Swiss - Used for gowns, wedding - White with small white spots
Jacquard - Large, woven in designs - Produced on a jacquard loom - Made up f a variety f weaves - Plain, rib, twill, satin, and sateen - Durability varies, it depends on Damask - A reversible flat jacquard fabric Brocade (face) - There are multiple colored yarns used within the weave Tapestry - Stiff and heavy - Uses multiple sets of warp and weft yarns Matelassé - Quilted look - Three dimensional effect - Seen most often in bedding - Highly twisted Mamie (Crepe) Weave - Identified by random floats - Pebbly, crinkled, or seeded surface - Random float - Small floats have no apparent patter Pique - A fabric with a raised surface - Three dimensional - Small geometric pattern - In the category of dobby weaves - Includes sand crepe, moss crepe, and granite crepe True Crepe - Created using a plain weave - Using very high twist yarns (>65 tpi) - Yarns do not lie flat - Creating a pebbled surface - Includes chiffon and georgette - Less stable - Have more shrinkage, - Softer, more drape FINAL EXAM: Saturday December 8th, 9am
