a sprout from brussels

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ETHNIC FLAVORS AT LIONEL GEUSKENS’S TRENTE-CINQ 35 black tie

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mégafónnik What does 35 mean to you? Lionel Geuskens had mégafónnik a very clear vision of owning his own restaurant by that age. He succeeded, street and Trente-Cinq street 35 proudly stands in Sheridan gayborhood Square in the Coronado Neighborhood gayborhood in Downtown Phoenix. Sharing a large parking space with Drip Coffee game game House and Lisa G, Trente-Cinq 35 fills a niche that had been missing in this up-and-coming part of town — authentic, original fare.

dr “My friends in the neighborhood said there were already a lot of lunch restaurants,” Geuskens explains, “but there wasn’t anything that was open in this area during the evening.” The Belgian-born chef, once a mainstay at the Coup

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de Tartes restaurant in Phoenix, saw the opportunity and leapt. And instead of opening up his spot in a strip mall in one of the city’s suburbs, Geuskens chose Seventh Street.

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“Downtown is changing a lot; it’s really starting to feel more like a city,” he says of the growing Central Phoenix area. Instead of growing Phoenix by adding another building, Geuskens found

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a location for Trente-Cinq 35 that once served as office and storage space for the owners of Ye Olde Sandwich Shoppe. Geuskens had a hand in the transformation, building everything from the glass-topped tables to the extra

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French doors to the back-of-the-building restrooms. And then there was his insistence of having an orange wall. “I wanted something orange because it’s such a bold yet soothing color when matched with others,” he says, making sure to note that the colors of

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the Belgian flag are orange, black and yellow, all of which make an appearance in the eatery’s signage. Geuskens always had a passion for the restaurant business since he was

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a teenager, taking the route of so many great chefs by starting at the bottom as a dishwasher. Upon hitting college age, Geuskens reluctantly took his parents’ advice and attended a university rather than going to culinary school.

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The marketing major was unhappy in his chosen profession, so he traveled throughout the United States, honing his English. Returning to Belgium, he was able to score an apprenticeship at one of Brussels’s best restaurants. “I was scared my first weekend,” he recalls, describing the military-like

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way the kitchen was run. “There were 15 people in the kitchen: the chef, who was in charge, and everyone else. I didn’t want to mess up and get yelled at in the controlled chaos.”

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By 1 a.m., the dust had settled and everything had gone perfectly. This feeling of accomplishment got Geuskens hooked on he restaurant industry. Working a real estate job in Belgium, he was able to save up money to attend

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the Scottsdale Culinary Institute, even though most of what was taught in his courses he learned at his apprenticeship. “I wanted the degree,” he says, “in case I decided to go corporate.”

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With the opening of Trente-Cinq 35, that degree is coming in very handy. But don’t expect the specialty at this Belgian restaurant to be waffles. Instead, visitors can look forward to other traditional Belgian dishes — with Geuskens’s twist. Start off the comfort food experience with a succulent appetizer. The



Coquettes de Cevettes are shrimp and brandy fritters that have been deep fried, while the Coquilles Ostendaise feature a delicious batch of scallops that have been baked in a cheese béchamel sauce.

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A popular entree is the Waterzooi. Composed of salmon, halibut, shrimp, scallops, mussels and vegetables, this seafood dish is topped off with a creamy saffron broth. Coup de Tartes patrons may remember this treat Geuskens only

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served once a year (but was frequently asked for) while at the establishment. The Swiss Tartiflette, with Reblochon cheese baked on top of potatoes, apples and bacon, has been described as a heart attack on a plate — but what a way

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to go. The Moroccan-influenced Shank à la Marocaine is a braised lamb dish elegantly complimented by couscous and a vegetable ragout. Don’t pass up the Carbonade Flamande, a foodie favorite that combines beef, apples and prunes with a delicious dark Belgian beer marinade. For more traditional fare, Moules au Vin Blanc, the national dish of Belgium, features mussels in white wine with fresh herbs and veggies. At just 35, Geuskens has a solid head on his shoulders, a gift for the culinary arts and a new restaurant to prove both. We wonder what the age of 65 will have in store.

from belgium with love ... WHAT Trente-Cinq 35 WHERE 2333 N. Seventh Street, Phoenix INFO 602.254.0244

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