Adastra: Technology Transfer
Adastra: Technology Transfer Cost saving solutions for dyeing and finishing
Adastra: Technology Transfer Environmentally friendly, cost saving solutions for dyeing and finishing With the pressures of competition, coupled with environmental concerns, the need to optimise all operational and production processes across the supply chain has never been greater. There is increasing pressure to deliver measurable, sustainable results. Dyehouses in the 21st century have to operate in a difficult world:
Legislative initiatives to restrict the impact of manufacturing industry on the environment may be desirable for us all as human beings, but restrictions on production techniques create new barriers to business success. We are faced with ever stiffening quality requirements from the consumer and greater demand for production uniformity from retailers and garment makers Instrumental colour measurement and digital colour communication are essential tools in the modern dyehouse.
SDC technology transfer can provide expert direction through the maze of 21st century colour physics.
What are our clients looking for? Efficiency and profitability, combined with a genuine commitment to sustainability through energy saving and good environmental practices. Our approach is based on innovation and good performance. We will optimise the performance of existing procedures. Our results are measurable and sustainable in the long-term.
The SDC team As the longest established textile colour organisation in the world, SDC has set the standards in best practice for the supply chain. Whereas individual consultants often have specialised expertise, SDC can call upon a wealth of experience from over 500 Chartered Colourists. Our dedicated team of consultants, experts in every field of textile coloration, have huge amounts of experience worldwide. This gives you, the customer, peace of mind in the knowledge that your partners in the project are solid, secure and experienced professionals with a long track record of sustained success in the wet processing of textiles around the world. Read on for biographies of some of our team of experts. The team is led by Arthur Welham, a member of the SDC Board of Trustees:
What do we offer? We offer target based projects designed specifically for the individual dyehouse with full consideration for all local parameters related to utility supply, factory conditions, customer base and fabric styles and related to performance, i.e. quality, costs and environmental issues in managing colour through the supply chain. Our team will visit you to establish the need, then design, set up and implement the project that is appropriate for your needs, including how best the dyehouse can take advantage of available technology. Key areas of support include:
Colour measurement and communication Laboratory management and testing Dyehouse management
SDC technology transfer is supported by state of the art hardware and software tools, essential in helping to deliver results. Lead by our specialist team, our project implementation follows best practice procedures. The framework includes:
An audit, to identify and establish inefficiencies in manufacturing and operational procedures Identifying and quantifying the optimal performance parameters The redesign of procedures – manufacturing and operational, based on our findings The set up and implementation of new hardware and software The development of new procedures to make best use of the available infrastructure Staff training, as required, to ensure the new systems and procedures are embedded into day to day practice The introduction of specialist tools and methodologies for monitoring and evaluating the results Implementation support for the new systems and processes, so that the benefits are achieved and maintained
What are the benefits? Whilst each project and customer is individual, the benefits you can expect are universal in terms of efficiency and the impact on profits and customer satisfaction and include:
Production and operational – benefits which can be measured, on an ongoing long term basis. The consultancy will identify and eliminate inefficiencies, and focus on maximising production levels Financial - tangible and significant savings, and maximised profitability by reducing costs, whilst not impacting on quality. Sustainable - long term benefits to the customer and the environment Efficiency at all levels of operation and production, with the adoption of best manufacturing principles Well trained staff, with a knowledge base that is deeply embedded within the organisation.
Case study examples Below, we have detailed some real examples from different dyehouses, illustrating typical situations and the significant cost savings you can expect.
Case Study One The dyehouse claimed the following cost implications of reproducibility: Cost of Dyeing per year: $US 2,562,000 Revenue of Dyehouse after admin costs etc: $US 2,760,000 Profit: $US 198,000 (7.2% on turnover) This is based on 10,000 kg per day, 300 days per year, 80% right first time on established recipes and 50% right first time from lab recipes. However, the actual situation was as follows: Cost of Dyeing per year: $US 2,637,000 Revenue of Dyehouse after admin costs etc: $US 2,760,000 Profit: $US 123,000 (4.5% on turnover) This is based on 10,000 kg per day, 300 days per year, 70% right first time on established recipes and 30% right first time from lab recipes. In other words, the actual profit was only 4.5% on turnover, with significantly lower percentages for right first time than had been claimed. In addition, the cost of dyeing per year was higher than had been reported, and the profit lower. Following the consultancy, the statistics were as follows: Cost of Dyeing per year: $US 2,430,000 Revenue of Dyehouse after admin costs etc: $US 2,760,000 Profit: $US 330,000 (12% on turnover) This is based on 10,000 kg per day, 300 days per year, 98% right first time on established recipes and 80% right first time from lab recipes. In summary, although the revenue of the Dyehouse remained the same, the following benefits were achieved: The cost of dyeing was reduced by over $ US 200,000 The right first time percentage was dramatically increased from 70% to 98% on established recipes and from 30% to 80% on lab recipes The profit was significantly increased from $ US 123,000 to $ US 330,000
Case study two The table below summarises the production cost analysis, and projected savings. Production Cost Analysis Cost element
Current situation
Projected situation
Savings
Steam
0.0800
0.0195
75.6%
Water
0.0505
0.0084
83.4%
Electricity
0.0193
0.0132
31.5%
Dyestuff and chemicals
0.4245
0.4118
3.0%
Labour costs (estimated)
0.0129
0.0088
31.8%
Total cost per kg
0.5872
0.4617
21.4%
0.1255
21.4%
Cost reductions per kg Yearly cost reduction
€ 325,324
Project benefits:
Proper organisation of the dyehouse and related departments, resulting in the creation of a healthy environment, which will yield the best outcome from production in the available machinery Lower water, energy, dyestuffs and chemicals usage Shorter process times and therefore more batches per day High repeatability or bulk to bulk continuity More consistency in the lab operation and therefore better lab to bulk reproducibility Less operator intervention in process control Standardisation and overall control of the dyeing processes and machines settings
This resulted in the following financial benefits:
Cost savings of 21.4% on the project of 7,300 kg per day Annualised cost savings of € 325,324 Further financial benefit from increased profit from higher production of € 489,000 (assuming a margin of € 0.6 per kg)
In summary, the total annualised financial benefit was projected to be in excess of € 700,000
Theoretical Example The following theoretical example illustrates the potential cost savings by right first time in further detail:
A small to medium sized dyehouse processing 10,000 kg per day at an average cost of x per kg. In this commission dyehouse due to new shades or changing substrate 40% of dyeings are to a new recipe directly from the lab. At present only 30% of these new recipes are on shade after the completion of the standard dyeing cycle (although the continuity of established recipes is 80%).
Of the shades requiring correction: 80% are corrected by an average of 3 shading additions and the other 20% cannot be corrected and need stripping and redyeing. The theoretical cost of preparation and dyeing is: y per kg Each addition costs 15% of y The cost of stripping and redyeing is: 145% of y including any necessary shade corrections (note: this is only carried out after attempts to correct the shade without stripping, which adds even more cost so the final cost of a stripped and redyed batch is 290% of the standard dyeing cost) The impact of improving lab to bulk reproducibility from 30% to 80% gives a cost saving equivalent to: $US 433,000
The detailed cost advantages will be different in every case, but if you substitute realistic numbers from other dyehouses into this model these kind of very significant cost savings are shown in almost every case.
Sustainabilty For the environment and the business. An SDC technology transfer project can help to reduce the impact on the environment (including a reduction in emissions) and achieve significant energy savings (including electricity and water). Overall efficiency benefits include increased daily production, a decrease in production costs and outstanding delivery against all performance indicators.
Why use SDC consultants?
Value for money – achieve efficiency savings and reduced processing time Excellence – we offer objective advice and have an international reputation for excellence Independence – unlike many consultants, we are not allied with any commercial organisation selling dyes, chemicals or equipment Expertise – our consultants are acknowledged industry experts worldwide, and highly experienced within industry. We have access to broad based technical expertise in every aspect of colour application and performance testing Specialist advice – we are specialists in every aspect of dyeing and coloration Industry standards – we are the ultimate authority on standards, having commissioned and published standards and seminal texts used by textile dyers worldwide for many years
Our consultancy is the result of many years of experience in working with dyehouses around the world.
About SDC The SDC is the leading independent charity dedicated to advancing the science and technology of colour worldwide. We do this by maintaining professional standards and improving the skills of coloration professionals, enabling them to deliver exceptional results for their organisations. This is delivered through membership, qualifications, training, publications, events and access to knowledge and expertise.
The team of experts Mike Bartle – Biography Dr Mike Bartle is a Past President of the SDC. His career started at ICI Ltd in the Process Development section of polyester production. After becoming a graduate of the Royal Institute of Chemistry he worked with Sketchley Ltd and developed an interest in textile coloration. He went back to university to carry out research into Azo dyes and was granted a PhD. He has worked in the textile industry gaining experience in fashion, automotive, sportswear and performance fabric processing involving cotton, silk, polyester, acrylic, polyamide and wool yarns. Mike has spent much of the last seven years in Egypt establishing AngloTextiles from a hole in the sand to three factories employing 350 people. He has also helped out with the transfer printing business in Sri Lanka. Dr Bartle was awarded SDC’s Silver Medal in 1999, and has also been awarded an FSDC. He also serves on the Court of the Worshipful Company of Dyers in the City of London.
Sue Bolton - Biography Sue Bolton graduated from Bradford University with a degree in Colour Chemistry and Colour Technology, gaining experience at the International Wool Secretariat (IWS) in Ilkley, UK, doing research into shrink resist wool, and at Hoechst in the paints technical services laboratories. Receiving her ASDC in 1981 she was awarded the SDC’s silver medal for services to the coloration industry in 1992 and was made a Fellow of the Society in 1995. Joining Marks and Spencer in the textile laboratory she worked in a number of roles, gaining world leading experience in all aspects of textile and clothing quality, performance and safety standards, testing and assurance procedures and processes, and leading initiatives such as the supplier accreditation system, designing and establishing the new laboratory and developing product recall systems and procedures. Establishing her own company, Bolton Consultancy in 2005, Sue now provides consultancy relating to textiles and clothing testing, performance and compliance internationally in areas ranging from test-lab design and procedures to product troubleshooting and training, Her interests include chemical testing, colour fastness, flammability, care labeling and children’s wear. For nearly 30 years, Sue has been an active member of BSI, CEN and ISO technical committees developing standards for textiles. Sue is chair of the SDC Technical Co-ordination Committee, a trustee of the board, and a frequent lecturer at SDC events.
Andrew McDonald - Biography In 1987 Andrew joined ICI's global Cotton Knitgoods Industry Team. This team was very customer and retailer driven, providing technical marketing leadership in campaigns for the promotion of the Procion HEXL range of exhaust reactive dyes. The team was at the forefront of the development of 'Right First Time' principles. This resulted in the development of a complete technology for exhaust dyeing. During this time Andrew completed his educational and professional studies, attaining the SDC’s ASDC qualification. In 1995 Andrew relocated to Thailand. He formed part of a young team focused on the development of ZENCA's technical marketing campaigns to promote sales in exhaust dyeing in South East Asia. With the purchase of ZENECA's textile dyes business by BASF in 1997, Andrew located to Johor Bahru in Malaysia, to continue project work at BASF's Textile Leather Center Asia. In 2000 they returned to Thailand. Responsibilities for Andrew increased with activities and visits to South Asia becoming more frequent. With the merger of BASF into DyStar in October 2000 Andrew saw the role of the dyes industry develop, extensive knowledge of dye selection was becoming of primary importance. The addition of Remazol, Levefix and Dianix technology to Andrew's knowledge base aided his ability to carry out his role in providing solutions that lead to sales opportunities for DyStar in Asia. DyStar undertook an extensive internal (and later developed externally), education and training activity for it's staff called DyStar Academy. Andrew played a key role in Asia to pass on both his colleague's and his own knowledge. Having spent most of his family and working life in South East Asia, in 1996 Andrew set up his own business based in Thailand. Creative Solutions Thailand Co Ltd was born with a close business partner formerly of the
UK retailer NEXT. Andrew takes responsibility for product sales to Thai industry, as well coloration matters and utilizes his knowledge of dye selection and process technology to assist textile producers in Thailand to upgrade their lab and bulk dyeing operations. As throughout all his near 30 year career, Andrew remains in very close daily contact to the dyeing production environment and continues to see the need to develop more industry solutions to ensure the expectations of retailers, and their clients the consumer, are met in terms of efficiency and sustainability.
Arthur C Welham - Biography Arthur Welham is a past President of the world’s oldest and most reputable professional society dealing with coloration, The Society of Dyers and Colourists, founded in 1884. He graduated from the University of Manchester in 1969 in Textile Chemistry, was elected an Associate of the Society of Dyers and Colourists and Chartered Colourist in 1972, a Fellow of the Society in 1986 and a Fellow of the Textile Institute in 1990. From 1969, Arthur worked in the world famous Courtaulds, Droylsden Research Laboratory and then later as a dyehouse manager in a Household Textiles factory in Lancashire, England. From 1978 he worked with Sandoz as UK Technical Manager and Head of the Textile Dyeing Laboratories. In 1990 he transferred to Sandoz Chemical Corporation as Technical Manager for the Northeast USA. In 1992 he became Executive Vice President of Sclavos USA Inc and then in 1995 Managing Director of Crompton and Knowles UK Ltd. In 2001 he went back into textile production as a dyehouse manager in El Salvador later working with Sclavos International as an Independent Technical and Management Consultant and running, on their behalf, Olympian consultancy projects. He has lectured to learned societies and trade organisations throughout the world, published over 30 technical papers in scientific journals and trade magazines and was a chapter author in the standard textbook, Wool Dyeing, published by the SDC. His specialities are jet dyeing of knits and wovens, the dyeing of wool and polyamide, dyeing elastomeric blends with cotton, polyester and polyamide and all issues relating to the environmental impact of the textile dyeing industry. He is the author of The Dyehouse Doctor Laboratory Manual.
Sue Williams – Biography Sue Williams is a past President of the SDC and only the second female president in the Society’s history. A Chartered Colourist and Fellow of the SDC, Sue has been a Society member for over 20 years and was awarded the Society’s Gold Medal in 2006 for significant contribution to colour measurement. Throughout her career, education and training have featured highly and remained her focus particularly in her presidential year by heading the launch of the Colour Management in Textiles Diploma. Sue graduated in Chemistry in 1967. She has worked in colour measurement in the coloration industry for over 40 years having been a founder member and Director of Instrumental Colour Systems Limited, the first UK based colour measurement company. She has written many papers and delivered lectures on all aspects of the application of colour measurement. Sue always made sure that the customer has the best equipment and solution for the job and has therefore worked closely with Datacolor, GretagMacbeth, XRite, and Verivide. Particularly, Sue is proud to have been head of the applications team which developed the new digital imaging technology, DigiEye together with Verivide and Leeds University. It is so important that users know how to view and measure samples correctly and consistently and Sue is passionate about the implementation of best practices. She has worked closely with retailers and specifiers: Adidas, M&S, Tesco, George, Next, John Lewis and Panache in the training of best practice in colour management within their supply chains.
Further information For further information about consultancy, please contact Andrew Filarowski, Technical Director: email: [email protected], telephone: +44 (0) 1274 761 777
Adastra: Technology Transfer Environmentally friendly, cost saving solutions for dyeing and finishing With the pressures of competition, coupled with environmental concerns, the need to optimise all operational and production processes across the supply chain has never been greater. There is increasing pressure to deliver measurable, sustainable results. Dyehouses in the 21st century have to operate in a difficult world:
Legislative initiatives to restrict the impact of manufacturing industry on the environment may be desirable for us all as human beings, but restrictions on production techniques create new barriers to business success. We are faced with ever stiffening quality requirements from the consumer and greater demand for production uniformity from retailers and garment makers Instrumental colour measurement and digital colour communication are essential tools in the modern dyehouse.
SDC technology transfer can provide expert direction through the maze of 21st century colour physics.
What are our clients looking for? Efficiency and profitability, combined with a genuine commitment to sustainability through energy saving and good environmental practices. Our approach is based on innovation and good performance. We will optimise the performance of existing procedures. Our results are measurable and sustainable in the long-term.
The SDC team As the longest established textile colour organisation in the world, SDC has set the standards in best practice for the supply chain. Whereas individual consultants often have specialised expertise, SDC can call upon a wealth of experience from over 500 Chartered Colourists. Our dedicated team of consultants, experts in every field of textile coloration, have huge amounts of experience worldwide. This gives you, the customer, peace of mind in the knowledge that your partners in the project are solid, secure and experienced professionals with a long track record of sustained success in the wet processing of textiles around the world. Read on for biographies of some of our team of experts. The team is led by Arthur Welham, a member of the SDC Board of Trustees:
What do we offer? We offer target based projects designed specifically for the individual dyehouse with full consideration for all local parameters related to utility supply, factory conditions, customer base and fabric styles and related to performance, i.e. quality, costs and environmental issues in managing colour through the supply chain. Our team will visit you to establish the need, then design, set up and implement the project that is appropriate for your needs, including how best the dyehouse can take advantage of available technology. Key areas of support include:
Colour measurement and communication Laboratory management and testing Dyehouse management
SDC technology transfer is supported by state of the art hardware and software tools, essential in helping to deliver results. Lead by our specialist team, our project implementation follows best practice procedures. The framework includes:
An audit, to identify and establish inefficiencies in manufacturing and operational procedures Identifying and quantifying the optimal performance parameters The redesign of procedures – manufacturing and operational, based on our findings The set up and implementation of new hardware and software The development of new procedures to make best use of the available infrastructure Staff training, as required, to ensure the new systems and procedures are embedded into day to day practice The introduction of specialist tools and methodologies for monitoring and evaluating the results Implementation support for the new systems and processes, so that the benefits are achieved and maintained
What are the benefits? Whilst each project and customer is individual, the benefits you can expect are universal in terms of efficiency and the impact on profits and customer satisfaction and include:
Production and operational – benefits which can be measured, on an ongoing long term basis. The consultancy will identify and eliminate inefficiencies, and focus on maximising production levels Financial - tangible and significant savings, and maximised profitability by reducing costs, whilst not impacting on quality. Sustainable - long term benefits to the customer and the environment Efficiency at all levels of operation and production, with the adoption of best manufacturing principles Well trained staff, with a knowledge base that is deeply embedded within the organisation.
Case study examples Below, we have detailed some real examples from different dyehouses, illustrating typical situations and the significant cost savings you can expect.
Case Study One The dyehouse claimed the following cost implications of reproducibility: Cost of Dyeing per year: $US 2,562,000 Revenue of Dyehouse after admin costs etc: $US 2,760,000 Profit: $US 198,000 (7.2% on turnover) This is based on 10,000 kg per day, 300 days per year, 80% right first time on established recipes and 50% right first time from lab recipes. However, the actual situation was as follows: Cost of Dyeing per year: $US 2,637,000 Revenue of Dyehouse after admin costs etc: $US 2,760,000 Profit: $US 123,000 (4.5% on turnover) This is based on 10,000 kg per day, 300 days per year, 70% right first time on established recipes and 30% right first time from lab recipes. In other words, the actual profit was only 4.5% on turnover, with significantly lower percentages for right first time than had been claimed. In addition, the cost of dyeing per year was higher than had been reported, and the profit lower. Following the consultancy, the statistics were as follows: Cost of Dyeing per year: $US 2,430,000 Revenue of Dyehouse after admin costs etc: $US 2,760,000 Profit: $US 330,000 (12% on turnover) This is based on 10,000 kg per day, 300 days per year, 98% right first time on established recipes and 80% right first time from lab recipes. In summary, although the revenue of the Dyehouse remained the same, the following benefits were achieved: The cost of dyeing was reduced by over $ US 200,000 The right first time percentage was dramatically increased from 70% to 98% on established recipes and from 30% to 80% on lab recipes The profit was significantly increased from $ US 123,000 to $ US 330,000
Case study two The table below summarises the production cost analysis, and projected savings. Production Cost Analysis Cost element
Current situation
Projected situation
Savings
Steam
0.0800
0.0195
75.6%
Water
0.0505
0.0084
83.4%
Electricity
0.0193
0.0132
31.5%
Dyestuff and chemicals
0.4245
0.4118
3.0%
Labour costs (estimated)
0.0129
0.0088
31.8%
Total cost per kg
0.5872
0.4617
21.4%
0.1255
21.4%
Cost reductions per kg Yearly cost reduction
€ 325,324
Project benefits:
Proper organisation of the dyehouse and related departments, resulting in the creation of a healthy environment, which will yield the best outcome from production in the available machinery Lower water, energy, dyestuffs and chemicals usage Shorter process times and therefore more batches per day High repeatability or bulk to bulk continuity More consistency in the lab operation and therefore better lab to bulk reproducibility Less operator intervention in process control Standardisation and overall control of the dyeing processes and machines settings
This resulted in the following financial benefits:
Cost savings of 21.4% on the project of 7,300 kg per day Annualised cost savings of € 325,324 Further financial benefit from increased profit from higher production of € 489,000 (assuming a margin of € 0.6 per kg)
In summary, the total annualised financial benefit was projected to be in excess of € 700,000
Theoretical Example The following theoretical example illustrates the potential cost savings by right first time in further detail:
A small to medium sized dyehouse processing 10,000 kg per day at an average cost of x per kg. In this commission dyehouse due to new shades or changing substrate 40% of dyeings are to a new recipe directly from the lab. At present only 30% of these new recipes are on shade after the completion of the standard dyeing cycle (although the continuity of established recipes is 80%).
Of the shades requiring correction: 80% are corrected by an average of 3 shading additions and the other 20% cannot be corrected and need stripping and redyeing. The theoretical cost of preparation and dyeing is: y per kg Each addition costs 15% of y The cost of stripping and redyeing is: 145% of y including any necessary shade corrections (note: this is only carried out after attempts to correct the shade without stripping, which adds even more cost so the final cost of a stripped and redyed batch is 290% of the standard dyeing cost) The impact of improving lab to bulk reproducibility from 30% to 80% gives a cost saving equivalent to: $US 433,000
The detailed cost advantages will be different in every case, but if you substitute realistic numbers from other dyehouses into this model these kind of very significant cost savings are shown in almost every case.
Sustainabilty For the environment and the business. An SDC technology transfer project can help to reduce the impact on the environment (including a reduction in emissions) and achieve significant energy savings (including electricity and water). Overall efficiency benefits include increased daily production, a decrease in production costs and outstanding delivery against all performance indicators.
Why use SDC consultants?
Value for money – achieve efficiency savings and reduced processing time Excellence – we offer objective advice and have an international reputation for excellence Independence – unlike many consultants, we are not allied with any commercial organisation selling dyes, chemicals or equipment Expertise – our consultants are acknowledged industry experts worldwide, and highly experienced within industry. We have access to broad based technical expertise in every aspect of colour application and performance testing Specialist advice – we are specialists in every aspect of dyeing and coloration Industry standards – we are the ultimate authority on standards, having commissioned and published standards and seminal texts used by textile dyers worldwide for many years
Our consultancy is the result of many years of experience in working with dyehouses around the world.
About SDC The SDC is the leading independent charity dedicated to advancing the science and technology of colour worldwide. We do this by maintaining professional standards and improving the skills of coloration professionals, enabling them to deliver exceptional results for their organisations. This is delivered through membership, qualifications, training, publications, events and access to knowledge and expertise.
The team of experts Mike Bartle – Biography Dr Mike Bartle is a Past President of the SDC. His career started at ICI Ltd in the Process Development section of polyester production. After becoming a graduate of the Royal Institute of Chemistry he worked with Sketchley Ltd and developed an interest in textile coloration. He went back to university to carry out research into Azo dyes and was granted a PhD. He has worked in the textile industry gaining experience in fashion, automotive, sportswear and performance fabric processing involving cotton, silk, polyester, acrylic, polyamide and wool yarns. Mike has spent much of the last seven years in Egypt establishing AngloTextiles from a hole in the sand to three factories employing 350 people. He has also helped out with the transfer printing business in Sri Lanka. Dr Bartle was awarded SDC’s Silver Medal in 1999, and has also been awarded an FSDC. He also serves on the Court of the Worshipful Company of Dyers in the City of London.
Sue Bolton - Biography Sue Bolton graduated from Bradford University with a degree in Colour Chemistry and Colour Technology, gaining experience at the International Wool Secretariat (IWS) in Ilkley, UK, doing research into shrink resist wool, and at Hoechst in the paints technical services laboratories. Receiving her ASDC in 1981 she was awarded the SDC’s silver medal for services to the coloration industry in 1992 and was made a Fellow of the Society in 1995. Joining Marks and Spencer in the textile laboratory she worked in a number of roles, gaining world leading experience in all aspects of textile and clothing quality, performance and safety standards, testing and assurance procedures and processes, and leading initiatives such as the supplier accreditation system, designing and establishing the new laboratory and developing product recall systems and procedures. Establishing her own company, Bolton Consultancy in 2005, Sue now provides consultancy relating to textiles and clothing testing, performance and compliance internationally in areas ranging from test-lab design and procedures to product troubleshooting and training, Her interests include chemical testing, colour fastness, flammability, care labeling and children’s wear. For nearly 30 years, Sue has been an active member of BSI, CEN and ISO technical committees developing standards for textiles. Sue is chair of the SDC Technical Co-ordination Committee, a trustee of the board, and a frequent lecturer at SDC events.
Andrew McDonald - Biography In 1987 Andrew joined ICI's global Cotton Knitgoods Industry Team. This team was very customer and retailer driven, providing technical marketing leadership in campaigns for the promotion of the Procion HEXL range of exhaust reactive dyes. The team was at the forefront of the development of 'Right First Time' principles. This resulted in the development of a complete technology for exhaust dyeing. During this time Andrew completed his educational and professional studies, attaining the SDC’s ASDC qualification. In 1995 Andrew relocated to Thailand. He formed part of a young team focused on the development of ZENCA's technical marketing campaigns to promote sales in exhaust dyeing in South East Asia. With the purchase of ZENECA's textile dyes business by BASF in 1997, Andrew located to Johor Bahru in Malaysia, to continue project work at BASF's Textile Leather Center Asia. In 2000 they returned to Thailand. Responsibilities for Andrew increased with activities and visits to South Asia becoming more frequent. With the merger of BASF into DyStar in October 2000 Andrew saw the role of the dyes industry develop, extensive knowledge of dye selection was becoming of primary importance. The addition of Remazol, Levefix and Dianix technology to Andrew's knowledge base aided his ability to carry out his role in providing solutions that lead to sales opportunities for DyStar in Asia. DyStar undertook an extensive internal (and later developed externally), education and training activity for it's staff called DyStar Academy. Andrew played a key role in Asia to pass on both his colleague's and his own knowledge. Having spent most of his family and working life in South East Asia, in 1996 Andrew set up his own business based in Thailand. Creative Solutions Thailand Co Ltd was born with a close business partner formerly of the
UK retailer NEXT. Andrew takes responsibility for product sales to Thai industry, as well coloration matters and utilizes his knowledge of dye selection and process technology to assist textile producers in Thailand to upgrade their lab and bulk dyeing operations. As throughout all his near 30 year career, Andrew remains in very close daily contact to the dyeing production environment and continues to see the need to develop more industry solutions to ensure the expectations of retailers, and their clients the consumer, are met in terms of efficiency and sustainability.
Arthur C Welham - Biography Arthur Welham is a past President of the world’s oldest and most reputable professional society dealing with coloration, The Society of Dyers and Colourists, founded in 1884. He graduated from the University of Manchester in 1969 in Textile Chemistry, was elected an Associate of the Society of Dyers and Colourists and Chartered Colourist in 1972, a Fellow of the Society in 1986 and a Fellow of the Textile Institute in 1990. From 1969, Arthur worked in the world famous Courtaulds, Droylsden Research Laboratory and then later as a dyehouse manager in a Household Textiles factory in Lancashire, England. From 1978 he worked with Sandoz as UK Technical Manager and Head of the Textile Dyeing Laboratories. In 1990 he transferred to Sandoz Chemical Corporation as Technical Manager for the Northeast USA. In 1992 he became Executive Vice President of Sclavos USA Inc and then in 1995 Managing Director of Crompton and Knowles UK Ltd. In 2001 he went back into textile production as a dyehouse manager in El Salvador later working with Sclavos International as an Independent Technical and Management Consultant and running, on their behalf, Olympian consultancy projects. He has lectured to learned societies and trade organisations throughout the world, published over 30 technical papers in scientific journals and trade magazines and was a chapter author in the standard textbook, Wool Dyeing, published by the SDC. His specialities are jet dyeing of knits and wovens, the dyeing of wool and polyamide, dyeing elastomeric blends with cotton, polyester and polyamide and all issues relating to the environmental impact of the textile dyeing industry. He is the author of The Dyehouse Doctor Laboratory Manual.
Sue Williams – Biography Sue Williams is a past President of the SDC and only the second female president in the Society’s history. A Chartered Colourist and Fellow of the SDC, Sue has been a Society member for over 20 years and was awarded the Society’s Gold Medal in 2006 for significant contribution to colour measurement. Throughout her career, education and training have featured highly and remained her focus particularly in her presidential year by heading the launch of the Colour Management in Textiles Diploma. Sue graduated in Chemistry in 1967. She has worked in colour measurement in the coloration industry for over 40 years having been a founder member and Director of Instrumental Colour Systems Limited, the first UK based colour measurement company. She has written many papers and delivered lectures on all aspects of the application of colour measurement. Sue always made sure that the customer has the best equipment and solution for the job and has therefore worked closely with Datacolor, GretagMacbeth, XRite, and Verivide. Particularly, Sue is proud to have been head of the applications team which developed the new digital imaging technology, DigiEye together with Verivide and Leeds University. It is so important that users know how to view and measure samples correctly and consistently and Sue is passionate about the implementation of best practices. She has worked closely with retailers and specifiers: Adidas, M&S, Tesco, George, Next, John Lewis and Panache in the training of best practice in colour management within their supply chains.
Further information For further information about consultancy, please contact Andrew Filarowski, Technical Director: email: [email protected], telephone: +44 (0) 1274 761 777
