Chogalisa from the Northwest, Third Ascent. Our expedition was

C hogalisa fr o m the N orthw est, Third A scent. O ur expedition was com ­ posed o f Françoise H énault, Pascal Poizat, C hristian L aV ergne, Philippe A rnaud, C hristine D a R onch and me. O ur approach m arch was from July 18 to 27. Base C am p w as at 4950 m eters on the V igne G lacier, five kilom eters above the confluence o f the V igne and Baltoro G laciers. From July 28 to A ugust 2, we established Cam p I at 5500 m eters eight kilom eters higher on the east branch o f the glacier at the foot o f a rocky triangular spur 1000 m eters in height at the top o f w hich we w ould place Cam p II. W e fixed 500 m eters o f rope on m ixed terrain and steep snow on the spur. Cam p II was occupied on A ugust 10 at 6500 m eters. O n the 11th, we m ade the first attem pt. M y wife Françoise, Poizat and I reached 7300 m eters in deep snow; A rnaud gave up at 6800 m eters. Poizat and I rem ained in C am p II for another attem pt tw o days later. The north ice face o f C hogolisa averages 35° with a few places o f 45°. There are few crevasses and little ice. At one P .M . on A ugust 13, Poizat and I reached the sum m it (7665 m eters, 25,148 feet) in dense fog. W e struck Base C am p on A ugust 15. J e a n -E t ie n n e H é n a u l t ,

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