Component assembly instructions - Thingiverse
Lulzbot Taz 4/5 Removable bed upgrade, Revision F. 4-21-2015
Component assembly instructions Please follow these steps prior to installation into your Taz 3D printer: 1. Using the high temp silicone adhesive (in the 2.8 oz tube), glue one of the ¾” dia x 1/16” thick magnets into each of the aluminum tray’s (3 each side) circular recesses. 2. 3D Print 2x bed handles appropriate to the thickness of the 12”x12” glass bed you are using. For 1/8th thick use the file “bedhandle1_8thk.stl”. For 3/16” or ¼” thick glass use the file “bedhandle3_16or1_4thk.stl” These files can be found on the thingverse page of this upgrade. Please use ABS plastic, as the adhesive listed in the parts list is designed for glass to ABS plastic adhesion. Also print the Z stop extension and the bed spacer (1 piece each). While you are waiting for the prints to finish you can do steps 3, 4 and 5, if you wish. 3. While you are 3D printing your handles, z stop extension and bed spacer, thread the 4x #6-32 x 1.25” flat head screws into the top of the aluminum tray until tight (one at each tray corner), and fully protruding out the bottom of the tray. (The top of the tray is the side you can see the 6x magnet circular indentations, and the indentation at one center -side of the perimeter of the tray). Add a dab of the same silicone adhesive from step 1, underneath where the threaded portion of the 4 screws exits the tray. This is to be sure the screws don’t loosen and turn whenever you adjust the bed level during normal use. Unthread the screws a few turns to draw a little glue upward and then retighten the screws. Make sure the glue still contacts the underside of the tray after retightening the screws. Press it back up with your fingers if you need to. 4. Use the same silicone adhesive to glue the aerogel insulation to the top of the aluminum leveling tray (reminder: the magnets from step 1 are visible when viewing the top of the tray). Spread a thin layer of glue on the 290mm square area of the tray and also down into the dip on the
one center side of the tray (clearance for the power and thermistor cables of the silicone heater pad). Use an old credit card to make an even thin layer. Press the Aerogel insulation on top of the glue. Make sure the insulation sits flat except on the part of the tray where there is a dip, be sure to press the insulation down into the dip to contact the adhesive. You can test fit the heater pad and see if there are any gaps in the area where the cables come on top of the indentation, and add more (double up) insulation to remove the gaps so the pad is fully supported by the frame and stays flat. Trim the insulation to the perimeter of the tray so that it is flush (290mm square) all around. Proceed to step 5 immediately, do not wait for the adhesive to cure. 5. Before the glue from step 4 dries, apply a thin layer of silicone adhesive to the bottom of the silicone heater pad. Again, an old credit card is a good tool to use for this. The bottom of the pad is the side that has the power and thermistor cables bulging outward. Be sure to not use excessive glue. A very thin layer is all you need. Press the pad adhesive side down onto the insulation you applied in step 4 (make sure the cables go into the dip on the perimeter of one center-side of the aluminum tray), square up the pad, tray and insulation, and place your purchased 12”x 12” glass on top of the pad. DO NOT PUT ADHESIVE ON THE TOP OF THE SILICONE PAD, WHERE IT WILL MEET THE GLASS. Weight it all down well, with a few text books. Don’t put more than 4 or 5 lbs of weight on the glass. We don’t want to crush the aerogel insulation! 6. After the appropriate handles are printed, use the silicone adhesive from step one to glue the remaining 6 magnets into the handles in their circular recesses. Make sure you check the polarity of each of the magnets relative to the installed ones on the aluminum tray that they will sit above so that each pair attracts appropriately!!! The notched portion of the handles will face upwards, and to the center of the aluminum leveling tray, with the pockets for the magnets facing down. Make sure each of the 3 pairs of magnets on each side of the tray will be attracting to the handles, at each position. Double and triple check
this prior to applying adhesive to the magnets in the handles. Do not make any special attempt to make the polarity such that the handles are interchangeable to each side of the tray. We always want the glass beds going into the printer the same way. Front always to the front, back always to the back. Otherwise small imperfections in the glass surface could (if your glass is especially out of tolerance) cause them to be out of level if you re-install the bed the opposite way from when you originally leveled it. So all things being equal, it’s better if each handle can only work (attract at each magnet pair) on one side of the tray. This will result in a bed that can only go on the tray in one orientation. If your handles do end up being interchangeable (by bad luck) you can just mark one handle as your front side. 7. Let everything (from steps 1-6) cure at least 24 hours before proceeding!!! 8. After the silicone has cured everywhere, we can remove the glass and weights from step 5. Inspect everything and make sure the glue has cured well and everything is flush flat and square. Remove any excess glue with a razor knife. 9. Cut the power and thermistor cables from the silicone heater pad to an appropriate length, copying the lengths of the stock Taz bed is a good approach. 10. Apply the power pole connectors to the heavy gauge cables, and the molex connector to the light gauge cables. Polarity for either of the cable pairs is unimportant. 11. Place the printed bed handles with magnets installed from step 6, on the aluminum tray (on their matched magnet pairs), with the notched portion of the handle facing towards the center of the tray. Place the glass bed on the silicone pad, and it should drop neatly between the bed handles (into the notch on each one). Carefully center the glass bed side to side so that it protrudes from the free sides (those without handles) of the silicone pad equally. Using painter’s tape, carefully mark the location of each side of the bed handles by placing a small strip of tape on the glass so that it’s flush with each side of the handle,
wrapping the tape around the edge of the glass and just touching the bed handle sides (but not sticking to them, edge of tape just touches either outside edge of bed handle). Also place a strip of tape (running left to right with the handle protruding toward you), lining it up with the innermost edge of the bed handle (by looking down through the glass). Do this for both handles on the glass. 12. Remove the glass, leaving the handles in the tray. Wrap the extra of the painter’s tape marking the outer edges of the bed handles around to the other side of the glass (glass bottom), marking the boundary on the edge of the glass equal to the notch width on the bed handle. Flip the glass over and place another strip of tape, lined up (left to right) with the strip of tape that was first used to locate the inner edge of each bed handle by looking through the glass. Do this for each side. Remove the original strips (off of the top surface of the glass) of tape that first located the innermost edges of the bed handles. 13. You should now have a tape outline representing exactly where the bed handle notches each engage the glass. Using black emery cloth sandpaper, sand the glass inside the areas outlined by the painter’s tape (Edges and glass bottom). Make sure you scuff up the glass well, wherever it will engage the notches of each bed handle. 14. Using coarse sandpaper, rough up the notches on the printed bed handles. Then wipe down the bed handle notches with denatured alcohol. 15. Wipe down the glass (where you sanded in step 13) with Acetone. 16. Using the EC-3901 primer, put an extremely thin layer of the primer where you sanded the glass. A small hobby paint brush is good for this purpose. Do not use the primer on the bed handles themselves, only the glass!! Be sure to use adequate ventilation, do not breath these vapors! Let the primer dry for at least 30 minutes to an hour before applying the glue from step 17. 17. Mix up a small batch of the 2216 adhesive for a few minutes. Apply a thin layer of adhesive to the notch on each bed handle. Make sure you get a nice even and thin layer covering all portions of the notch.
18. Place the bed handles on a flat table opposite one another, with notches up and facing inboard and then lower the glass on to them, such that it engages the notches of the handles exactly in the areas marked by the painters tape. The tape marking the inner edges should be facing down towards the table. Make sure the glue spreads evenly to the glass by pressing down on the glass. Put a small weight on the glass and let dry for at least 9 hours. Again double and triple check that everything is lined up well and square (make sure the handles are flat against both the glass and the table too!). Make sure the handle notches line up perfectly within the tape outline. Remove any excess glue with a paper towel. Remove the painters tape after the glue has cured. You may have to use a razor to get all the tape off. 19. Run the pronterface application, and change the silicone heater PID values as follows: Kp = 624.74 Ki = 67.69 Kd = 1441.42 This is done by sending the following command in the terminal window of pronterface when the printer is connected via usb: M304 P624.74 I67.69 D1441.42 Then send: M500 (This is assuming you purchased the exact silicone heater pad per the parts list, if you use a different one, you will need to establish your own PID values using pronterface and the M303 command.) If you wish, later, you can rerun the heater optimization (M303) in pronterface to get these values perfect for your specific heater. But these numbers should get you close.
Congratulations! You are now ready to install the bed system into your Taz.
Lulzbot Taz 4/5 Removable bed upgrade
Printer installation instructions Please follow these steps to install the removable bed upgrade assembled earlier, into your Taz 4/5 printer: 1. Remove the stock bed and the associated (4 corners) Taz stock printed supports and leveling screws, but leave the stock Y travel aluminum tray in place. None of the old hardware is needed and may be put away. 2. Place the newly assembled aluminum tray upgrade (without the glass installed) on top of the stock aluminum Y travel tray with the #6-32 screws resting on top of the Y travel tray. Locate the four #6-32 screws protruding from the bottom of the upgrade tray onto the Y travel tray such that they are equidistant (in X and Y directions) from each corner of the stock Y travel tray. Make sure you have the upgrade tray oriented such that the cables from the new silicone pad are facing towards the electronics enclosure of the Taz. Mark the 4 screw locations with a felt tip pen. Both the upper and lower trays should now be square with each other, and centered. 3. Double check the marked locations such that they are matched in distance to each other as are the #6-32 screws on the upgrade tray, and that they are in fact equidistant from the corners of the Y travel tray in both X and Y. 4. Check #3 again. 5. And check it again. 6. At each correctly marked location drill a 0.156” (4mm) hole through the Y travel tray. Clean up aluminum chips. Make sure the Y axis rods are clean of metal dust too. 7. Place the printed bed spacer centered over the back left hole you drilled in step 6. Place the three compression springs centered over the remaining three drilled holes. Line up the upgrade tray’s 4 screws over the springs and spacer (with the cables from the silicone pad pointing toward the electronics enclosure of the Taz), and lower the upgrade tray, sandwiching the compression springs and spacer between the two aluminum trays and
allowing the screws to pass through the springs, spacer and drilled holes through and passed the bottom of the Y axis tray. 8. Press down on the upper tray to deflect the spring in each of their three corners and make sure it is free to travel and the screw threads don’t catch in the through holes you’ve just drilled. If you have interference, you can open up the rear-most left hole (where the spacer is) with a 3/16” (5mm) drill bit. Try not to do this to more than one hole. If you have to open them all up to avoid interference, you did a poor job of step 3. You’ll have to ensure the tray can’t move laterally when printing. This can be accomplished with a heavy dab of silicone glue between each end of the springs (and the spacer) and the upper and lower trays. But make sure you don’t get any glue on the screws and through holes. 9. Using the three thumb nuts, place them loosely under the stock Y travel tray at the three spring supported corners. Place a #6-32 nut (or another thumbnut) under the Y axis tray at the corner with the printed spacer and tighten it fully, using blue Loctite, fixing that corner in Z height. You may consider using blue Loctite at the other screws as well, which will provide a little more resistance to thumbnut adjustments and prevent vibrations from printing to alter level. However the tightened springs should prevent this on their own. 10. Prepare the glass for printing with hairspray or the surface of your choice (e.g. PEI). Place the prepared glass bed onto the installed upgrade tray with the bed handle magnets oriented correctly such that the glass is drawn tightly into the silicone pad. You should feel the bed pop into place. 11. Connect the DC powerpoles, and thermistor cables to the electronics of the Taz just like the stock bed heater. Tie wrap into place per the stock Taz method. 12. Place the Z stop extender printed earlier by pressing it onto the stock Z stop screw head. 13. Level the bed. Since the back left corner is fixed in Z height by the printed spacer, start out by adjusting to the proper printing Z height (using the extended height Z knob on the Taz) with your nozzle positioned in the back left corner. Then send the nozzle to the front right corner and adjust its
thumbnut to about the same Z height (trying to match the back left print height but don’t worry about perfection yet). From there you’ll want to tighten in all three thumbnuts until the entire bed is level. The best approach is achieved by adjusting any two springs at a time, with the nozzle on the center of their corresponding side (formed by either; both front springs, or both right hand side springs). Going to the remaining corners instead can cause problems since one spring can effect an entire side (and opposite corner) not just that corner. Stick to the center of each side once you have the back left and front right corners close to level. Be aware that each thumbnut will alter the height of the others (even the spacer corner due to the stock Y tray flexing). There’s some trial and error involved as the Y axis tray flexes differently as you adjust the springs. So you’ll have to double check all 4 center sides as you make adjustments. Also you’ll have to check the glass center. You may find you’ll need to compromise in some areas due to glass tolerances, and X axis sag on the Taz. But these troubles also occur on the stock Taz bed due to the design of the printer. Find a happy medium and you will find it prints trouble free.
You are ready to print. Enjoy your new bed system!
Component assembly instructions Please follow these steps prior to installation into your Taz 3D printer: 1. Using the high temp silicone adhesive (in the 2.8 oz tube), glue one of the ¾” dia x 1/16” thick magnets into each of the aluminum tray’s (3 each side) circular recesses. 2. 3D Print 2x bed handles appropriate to the thickness of the 12”x12” glass bed you are using. For 1/8th thick use the file “bedhandle1_8thk.stl”. For 3/16” or ¼” thick glass use the file “bedhandle3_16or1_4thk.stl” These files can be found on the thingverse page of this upgrade. Please use ABS plastic, as the adhesive listed in the parts list is designed for glass to ABS plastic adhesion. Also print the Z stop extension and the bed spacer (1 piece each). While you are waiting for the prints to finish you can do steps 3, 4 and 5, if you wish. 3. While you are 3D printing your handles, z stop extension and bed spacer, thread the 4x #6-32 x 1.25” flat head screws into the top of the aluminum tray until tight (one at each tray corner), and fully protruding out the bottom of the tray. (The top of the tray is the side you can see the 6x magnet circular indentations, and the indentation at one center -side of the perimeter of the tray). Add a dab of the same silicone adhesive from step 1, underneath where the threaded portion of the 4 screws exits the tray. This is to be sure the screws don’t loosen and turn whenever you adjust the bed level during normal use. Unthread the screws a few turns to draw a little glue upward and then retighten the screws. Make sure the glue still contacts the underside of the tray after retightening the screws. Press it back up with your fingers if you need to. 4. Use the same silicone adhesive to glue the aerogel insulation to the top of the aluminum leveling tray (reminder: the magnets from step 1 are visible when viewing the top of the tray). Spread a thin layer of glue on the 290mm square area of the tray and also down into the dip on the
one center side of the tray (clearance for the power and thermistor cables of the silicone heater pad). Use an old credit card to make an even thin layer. Press the Aerogel insulation on top of the glue. Make sure the insulation sits flat except on the part of the tray where there is a dip, be sure to press the insulation down into the dip to contact the adhesive. You can test fit the heater pad and see if there are any gaps in the area where the cables come on top of the indentation, and add more (double up) insulation to remove the gaps so the pad is fully supported by the frame and stays flat. Trim the insulation to the perimeter of the tray so that it is flush (290mm square) all around. Proceed to step 5 immediately, do not wait for the adhesive to cure. 5. Before the glue from step 4 dries, apply a thin layer of silicone adhesive to the bottom of the silicone heater pad. Again, an old credit card is a good tool to use for this. The bottom of the pad is the side that has the power and thermistor cables bulging outward. Be sure to not use excessive glue. A very thin layer is all you need. Press the pad adhesive side down onto the insulation you applied in step 4 (make sure the cables go into the dip on the perimeter of one center-side of the aluminum tray), square up the pad, tray and insulation, and place your purchased 12”x 12” glass on top of the pad. DO NOT PUT ADHESIVE ON THE TOP OF THE SILICONE PAD, WHERE IT WILL MEET THE GLASS. Weight it all down well, with a few text books. Don’t put more than 4 or 5 lbs of weight on the glass. We don’t want to crush the aerogel insulation! 6. After the appropriate handles are printed, use the silicone adhesive from step one to glue the remaining 6 magnets into the handles in their circular recesses. Make sure you check the polarity of each of the magnets relative to the installed ones on the aluminum tray that they will sit above so that each pair attracts appropriately!!! The notched portion of the handles will face upwards, and to the center of the aluminum leveling tray, with the pockets for the magnets facing down. Make sure each of the 3 pairs of magnets on each side of the tray will be attracting to the handles, at each position. Double and triple check
this prior to applying adhesive to the magnets in the handles. Do not make any special attempt to make the polarity such that the handles are interchangeable to each side of the tray. We always want the glass beds going into the printer the same way. Front always to the front, back always to the back. Otherwise small imperfections in the glass surface could (if your glass is especially out of tolerance) cause them to be out of level if you re-install the bed the opposite way from when you originally leveled it. So all things being equal, it’s better if each handle can only work (attract at each magnet pair) on one side of the tray. This will result in a bed that can only go on the tray in one orientation. If your handles do end up being interchangeable (by bad luck) you can just mark one handle as your front side. 7. Let everything (from steps 1-6) cure at least 24 hours before proceeding!!! 8. After the silicone has cured everywhere, we can remove the glass and weights from step 5. Inspect everything and make sure the glue has cured well and everything is flush flat and square. Remove any excess glue with a razor knife. 9. Cut the power and thermistor cables from the silicone heater pad to an appropriate length, copying the lengths of the stock Taz bed is a good approach. 10. Apply the power pole connectors to the heavy gauge cables, and the molex connector to the light gauge cables. Polarity for either of the cable pairs is unimportant. 11. Place the printed bed handles with magnets installed from step 6, on the aluminum tray (on their matched magnet pairs), with the notched portion of the handle facing towards the center of the tray. Place the glass bed on the silicone pad, and it should drop neatly between the bed handles (into the notch on each one). Carefully center the glass bed side to side so that it protrudes from the free sides (those without handles) of the silicone pad equally. Using painter’s tape, carefully mark the location of each side of the bed handles by placing a small strip of tape on the glass so that it’s flush with each side of the handle,
wrapping the tape around the edge of the glass and just touching the bed handle sides (but not sticking to them, edge of tape just touches either outside edge of bed handle). Also place a strip of tape (running left to right with the handle protruding toward you), lining it up with the innermost edge of the bed handle (by looking down through the glass). Do this for both handles on the glass. 12. Remove the glass, leaving the handles in the tray. Wrap the extra of the painter’s tape marking the outer edges of the bed handles around to the other side of the glass (glass bottom), marking the boundary on the edge of the glass equal to the notch width on the bed handle. Flip the glass over and place another strip of tape, lined up (left to right) with the strip of tape that was first used to locate the inner edge of each bed handle by looking through the glass. Do this for each side. Remove the original strips (off of the top surface of the glass) of tape that first located the innermost edges of the bed handles. 13. You should now have a tape outline representing exactly where the bed handle notches each engage the glass. Using black emery cloth sandpaper, sand the glass inside the areas outlined by the painter’s tape (Edges and glass bottom). Make sure you scuff up the glass well, wherever it will engage the notches of each bed handle. 14. Using coarse sandpaper, rough up the notches on the printed bed handles. Then wipe down the bed handle notches with denatured alcohol. 15. Wipe down the glass (where you sanded in step 13) with Acetone. 16. Using the EC-3901 primer, put an extremely thin layer of the primer where you sanded the glass. A small hobby paint brush is good for this purpose. Do not use the primer on the bed handles themselves, only the glass!! Be sure to use adequate ventilation, do not breath these vapors! Let the primer dry for at least 30 minutes to an hour before applying the glue from step 17. 17. Mix up a small batch of the 2216 adhesive for a few minutes. Apply a thin layer of adhesive to the notch on each bed handle. Make sure you get a nice even and thin layer covering all portions of the notch.
18. Place the bed handles on a flat table opposite one another, with notches up and facing inboard and then lower the glass on to them, such that it engages the notches of the handles exactly in the areas marked by the painters tape. The tape marking the inner edges should be facing down towards the table. Make sure the glue spreads evenly to the glass by pressing down on the glass. Put a small weight on the glass and let dry for at least 9 hours. Again double and triple check that everything is lined up well and square (make sure the handles are flat against both the glass and the table too!). Make sure the handle notches line up perfectly within the tape outline. Remove any excess glue with a paper towel. Remove the painters tape after the glue has cured. You may have to use a razor to get all the tape off. 19. Run the pronterface application, and change the silicone heater PID values as follows: Kp = 624.74 Ki = 67.69 Kd = 1441.42 This is done by sending the following command in the terminal window of pronterface when the printer is connected via usb: M304 P624.74 I67.69 D1441.42 Then send: M500 (This is assuming you purchased the exact silicone heater pad per the parts list, if you use a different one, you will need to establish your own PID values using pronterface and the M303 command.) If you wish, later, you can rerun the heater optimization (M303) in pronterface to get these values perfect for your specific heater. But these numbers should get you close.
Congratulations! You are now ready to install the bed system into your Taz.
Lulzbot Taz 4/5 Removable bed upgrade
Printer installation instructions Please follow these steps to install the removable bed upgrade assembled earlier, into your Taz 4/5 printer: 1. Remove the stock bed and the associated (4 corners) Taz stock printed supports and leveling screws, but leave the stock Y travel aluminum tray in place. None of the old hardware is needed and may be put away. 2. Place the newly assembled aluminum tray upgrade (without the glass installed) on top of the stock aluminum Y travel tray with the #6-32 screws resting on top of the Y travel tray. Locate the four #6-32 screws protruding from the bottom of the upgrade tray onto the Y travel tray such that they are equidistant (in X and Y directions) from each corner of the stock Y travel tray. Make sure you have the upgrade tray oriented such that the cables from the new silicone pad are facing towards the electronics enclosure of the Taz. Mark the 4 screw locations with a felt tip pen. Both the upper and lower trays should now be square with each other, and centered. 3. Double check the marked locations such that they are matched in distance to each other as are the #6-32 screws on the upgrade tray, and that they are in fact equidistant from the corners of the Y travel tray in both X and Y. 4. Check #3 again. 5. And check it again. 6. At each correctly marked location drill a 0.156” (4mm) hole through the Y travel tray. Clean up aluminum chips. Make sure the Y axis rods are clean of metal dust too. 7. Place the printed bed spacer centered over the back left hole you drilled in step 6. Place the three compression springs centered over the remaining three drilled holes. Line up the upgrade tray’s 4 screws over the springs and spacer (with the cables from the silicone pad pointing toward the electronics enclosure of the Taz), and lower the upgrade tray, sandwiching the compression springs and spacer between the two aluminum trays and
allowing the screws to pass through the springs, spacer and drilled holes through and passed the bottom of the Y axis tray. 8. Press down on the upper tray to deflect the spring in each of their three corners and make sure it is free to travel and the screw threads don’t catch in the through holes you’ve just drilled. If you have interference, you can open up the rear-most left hole (where the spacer is) with a 3/16” (5mm) drill bit. Try not to do this to more than one hole. If you have to open them all up to avoid interference, you did a poor job of step 3. You’ll have to ensure the tray can’t move laterally when printing. This can be accomplished with a heavy dab of silicone glue between each end of the springs (and the spacer) and the upper and lower trays. But make sure you don’t get any glue on the screws and through holes. 9. Using the three thumb nuts, place them loosely under the stock Y travel tray at the three spring supported corners. Place a #6-32 nut (or another thumbnut) under the Y axis tray at the corner with the printed spacer and tighten it fully, using blue Loctite, fixing that corner in Z height. You may consider using blue Loctite at the other screws as well, which will provide a little more resistance to thumbnut adjustments and prevent vibrations from printing to alter level. However the tightened springs should prevent this on their own. 10. Prepare the glass for printing with hairspray or the surface of your choice (e.g. PEI). Place the prepared glass bed onto the installed upgrade tray with the bed handle magnets oriented correctly such that the glass is drawn tightly into the silicone pad. You should feel the bed pop into place. 11. Connect the DC powerpoles, and thermistor cables to the electronics of the Taz just like the stock bed heater. Tie wrap into place per the stock Taz method. 12. Place the Z stop extender printed earlier by pressing it onto the stock Z stop screw head. 13. Level the bed. Since the back left corner is fixed in Z height by the printed spacer, start out by adjusting to the proper printing Z height (using the extended height Z knob on the Taz) with your nozzle positioned in the back left corner. Then send the nozzle to the front right corner and adjust its
thumbnut to about the same Z height (trying to match the back left print height but don’t worry about perfection yet). From there you’ll want to tighten in all three thumbnuts until the entire bed is level. The best approach is achieved by adjusting any two springs at a time, with the nozzle on the center of their corresponding side (formed by either; both front springs, or both right hand side springs). Going to the remaining corners instead can cause problems since one spring can effect an entire side (and opposite corner) not just that corner. Stick to the center of each side once you have the back left and front right corners close to level. Be aware that each thumbnut will alter the height of the others (even the spacer corner due to the stock Y tray flexing). There’s some trial and error involved as the Y axis tray flexes differently as you adjust the springs. So you’ll have to double check all 4 center sides as you make adjustments. Also you’ll have to check the glass center. You may find you’ll need to compromise in some areas due to glass tolerances, and X axis sag on the Taz. But these troubles also occur on the stock Taz bed due to the design of the printer. Find a happy medium and you will find it prints trouble free.
You are ready to print. Enjoy your new bed system!
