Denim Tote
©
The Quilted Jeans Tote© Designed by Barbara Weiland Talbert ©
1
Quilted Jeans Tote© Designed by Barbara Weiland Talbert Finished Size: 11" X 12"
Salvage an old and worn pair of your jeans or purchase an inexpensive pair at your favorite thrift shop. Use the existing pockets for the exterior pocket and for a hanging pocket on the inside. This tote is the perfect size if you prefer a small purse or it makes a great book bag to carry your favorite read. It's also a nice size for a bag for your tween or teen. I hope you will take the time to check out all of my other tote bag patterns here on Craftsy. Look for my best-sellers: The Quilted Carryall and The Quilted Traveler's Tote.
Materials
1 pair used or new jeans Cotton print for lining pieces and binding for the facing edge (1/2 yard). Search your fabric stash for something you could use.
2 Lightweight batting Denim sewing machine needle, size 100 Thread to match the denim for assembly and quilting. For the quilting, you may substitute a thread color that matches the topstitching on the pockets if you prefer. Notes You may need topstitching thread in a color to match the topstitching on the pockets; see Step 5 in "Cut and Assemble the Denim Bag Panel." If you prefer readymade straps instead of matching denim straps as shown), purchase 1-1/8 yards of cotton webbing.
Cut and Assemble the Denim Panel 1. To salvage the back pockets from the jeans,, carefully insert the point of a seam ripper between the pocket and the jeans and cut stitches all around. Depending on how the pockets were attached, this pocket removal method may or may not leave the pocket topstitching intact. You will replace the topstitching later if it has come undone.
2. Cut off both pant legs just below the worn knees.
3
3. Cut the legs apart along the outside seamline (the one that isn't topstitched), and then cut away the seam allowances on each piece.
4. Cut away the bulky turned hem allowance on each leg.
5. You should have two roughly shaped rectangles. Straighten the edges to make two rectangles the same size. 6. Arrange the rectangles on top of each other with wrong sides facing as shown in the photo on the next page. Shift the top piece so the bulky topstitched seam lies below the seam allowance on the bottom piece, to avoid bulk in the side seams. Then trim each rectangle to 11-1/2" x 14". Offsetting the seam allowances is necessary to eliminate a really bulky area that you won't be able to stitch over Note: If the rectangles cut from the lower legs are wide enough, you can cut the panel wider an inch or two wider or a larger bag.
4
Offset the seam allowances to avoid bulk.
7. With right sides facing, sew the two denim rectangles together at the lower edges and press the seam allowance to one side. On the right side of the bag, stitch close to the turned edge of the seam, through all layers.
Stitch 1/4" from the bottom edges.
Press seam to one side and edgestitch.
8. Measure the denim panel and cut a lining rectangle that is at least 1" larger all around. Cut a rectangle of lightweight batting (or substitute lightweight cotton flannel if you prefer), making it 3" shorter and the same width as the rectangle. The shorter batting panel eliminates bulk in the turn-under facing at the upper edge of the bag. 9. Center the batting on the wrong side of the denim panel with the short edges 1-1/2" from the denim short edges. Trim if necessary (some batting stretches when handled). Make sure there are no wrinkles.
5
Batting is 1-1/2" from both short edges of denim. 10. Place the denim/batting panel, batting side down, on the wrong side of the lining with excess lining extending past all edges. Smooth in place and baste with pins (or use temporary spray adhesive to attach the lining if desired). 11. Quilt as desired. Trim the excess lining even with the denim raw edges and set aside for the "Finishing" steps below. Don't try to quilt over the horizontal seam allowances.
Cut and Assemble the Inside Hanging Pocket 1. Cutting along the seamlines, cut the remaining upper section of the back legs apart so that you can use them for the straps and a backing for the inside hanging pocket.
Salvaged back legs of jeans
2. For the inside hanging pocket, place the most worn* pocket on one of the back legs in the widest area (by the crotch curve) allowing for room all around so you can cut it 1" larger than the sides and bottom edges and 2-1/2" larger at the upper edge. Mark and cut out. See the photo on the next page. * You can see the worn imprint of my husband' wallet in the pocket shown below.
6
2-1/2"
1" larger at side and bottom edges
3. Pin and then edgestitch the side and bottom edges of the pocket in place. If the contrast topstitching rows came undone when you removed the pocket, replace both rows with topstitching thread in a color that matches the topstitching as closely as possible. 4. Use the pocket panel to cut a matching piece of lining fabric.
5. Trim 1/8" from the side and bottom edges of the pocket lining. With right sides facing and raw edges even, pin the lining to the side and bottom edges; since it's slightly narrower, you may need to force the edges to align on all three edges.. Stitch 1/4" from the side and bottom raw edges, leaving the upper edge unstitched for turning. Clip corners and points to remove bulk. Turn right side out and press. The lining should roll slightly to the underside of the completed pocket panel as shown in the photo on the next page so it doesn't show at the finished edges of the pocket.
7
Lining should roll to the underside at the pocket edges.
6. With chalk or a disappearing ink pen, draw a line across the upper edge 1" above the upper open edge of the pocket. Set aside.
Draw chalk line 1" above the open edge of the pocket.
Cut and Prepare the Straps 1. From the remaining back leg panel, cut (2) 3" x 20" strips. If the legs are not long enough to cut strips of this length, cut 3 strips of the longest length possible (you may need to cut one from the longest edge of the leg from which you cut the pocket panel). Sew together with bias seams to make a strip at least 40" long. Press the seams open and cut two 20"-long pieces from the long strip. Note: If you prefer, you can substitute 1"-wide cotton webbing for the straps (1-1/8 yards, cut into two equal lengths).
8 2. Machine-baste 3/8" from the long raw edges of each strip.
3. Using the basting as a guide, turn under and press the raw edges. Make sure the basting doesn't show on the right side of the pressed strip.
4. Fold the prepared strips in half with the turned edges aligned and edgestitch together. Edgestich along the remaining folded edge of each strap.
Finishing 1. Determine which half of the bag panel has the larger section from the horizontal seam down. Center the remaining pocket on this half, with the upper edge of the pocket 2" above the upper edge of the topstitched seam. If the stitching is intact on
9 the pocket, simply edgestitch in place with matching thread. If the stitching came out when removing them from the jeans, edgestitch and topstitch in place, using topstitching thread to match the original.
Place upper edge of pocket 2" above seam edge.
2. Fold the bag in half with right sides facing and stitch 1/4" from the raw edges to form the side seams. Clip the seams almost to the stitching 1-1/2" from the upper edge. Serge- or zigzag-finish the long sections of the seam. The short section will be covered when the facing is turned down and doesn't require finishing. Working on a sleeve board or seam roll if available, press the short sections toward the front of the bag above the clip, so when the facing is turned down there, will be less bulk at the seams. Press the long sections toward the opposite half of the bag as far in the corner as you can reach with the iron. Turn right out, pushing out the lower corners.
Clip 1-1/2" from upper edge of each side seam.
3. Cut a 2-1/2" x 27" strip of the lining fabric for the upper-edge binding. Turn under one edge at an angle as shown in the first photo on the next page and press. Trim and discard the excess, leaving a 1/4"-wide turn-under allowance.
10
Fold the strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and edges even. Press.
4. Beginning on the back of the bag, away from the side seam, pin the binding strip to the upper edge of the bag with right sides facing. Trim away any excess strip, so it's even with the raw edge of the turn-under allowance. Stitch in place 1/4" from the raw edges. 5. Turn the binding strip toward the seam allowance and press. Wrap the binding over the seam edge and press. The binding edge will extend beyond the first stitching so it will be caught in the next stitching. Pin in place and then stitch-in-the ditch from the right side.
11
6. At each end of each strap, draw a positioning line 1/2" from the raw edge.
7. Tuck each strap end under the bound edge of the bag at the marked line, with the outer edges of the strap 2" from the side seams. Stitch in place through the center of the binding. Repeat with the remaining strap.
Place the edge of the binding at the marking on the strap end. Stitch through the center of the binding.
8. On the back half of the bag (the side without the pocket), slip the inside hanging pocket under the bound edge with the bound edge at the marked line as shown in the photo on the next page. Note that the strap lies on top of the pocket. Center it between the seamlines and pin in place. Stitch-in-the-ditch of the binding seam to attach the pocket, backstitching at each end.
12
Place bound edge at marked line on hanging pocket; pin.
Stitch-in-the-ditch of the binding seam to attach hanging pocket. 9. Turn under the upper edge of the bag to form the facing. It should fold naturally in place along the batting edges. The facing will be 1/12" wide and the straps and hanging pocket should be inside the bag at this point. Edgestitch with matching thread. Stitch again, 3/8" from the edge of the bag.
10. With the straps still inside the bag and using thread to match the denim, stitch through each strap just below the bound edge to secure to the bag as shown in the photo on the next page. Stitch again for added security.
13
Stitch straps in place next to the bound facing edge on the inside of the bag.
11. Flip the straps up against the bound edge on the inside of the bag and pin in place. Make sure the bound edge of the facing is smooth and flat underneath the straps.
12. With matching thread, edgestitch each strap in place along the previous edgestitching. Stitch again for added security.
More Totes from Jo-Lydia’s Attic I hope you enjoyed this free pattern and that you will look for my other tote and travel patterns for sale at www.craftsy.com Below are just a few of the pattern choices you will find there.
The Quilted Carryall
Quilted Travel & Sewing Organizers
The Quilted Traveler’s Tote
Sew ‘n’ Go BeachMat Tote & Pillow
How Cute is That Bucket Bag
The Sew ‘n’ Go Quilted Handbag
Copyright 2014 Barbara Weiland Talbert All Rights Reserved. Pattern Support: [email protected] 13211 NE 7th Ave., Vancouver, WA 98685 No part of this PDF Pattern may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means including information storage and retrieval systems, unless otherwise stated, in which case reproduction is limited to the use of the purchaser. The written directions and designs as well as any photographs, illustrations, and patterns or templates are copyright protected and are for the personal use of the retail purchaser. It is a violation of our copyright to share, forward, or in any way distribute this electronic PDF pattern to any other party. It is strictly for personal use. If you wish to make items for resale, contact the publisher for permission. We do everything possible to ensure that the information included in this pattern is accurate; it is presented in good faith. No warranty is provided nor results guaranteed. Please report any technical errors to the designer by e-mail at [email protected] Thank you!
The Quilted Jeans Tote© Designed by Barbara Weiland Talbert ©
1
Quilted Jeans Tote© Designed by Barbara Weiland Talbert Finished Size: 11" X 12"
Salvage an old and worn pair of your jeans or purchase an inexpensive pair at your favorite thrift shop. Use the existing pockets for the exterior pocket and for a hanging pocket on the inside. This tote is the perfect size if you prefer a small purse or it makes a great book bag to carry your favorite read. It's also a nice size for a bag for your tween or teen. I hope you will take the time to check out all of my other tote bag patterns here on Craftsy. Look for my best-sellers: The Quilted Carryall and The Quilted Traveler's Tote.
Materials
1 pair used or new jeans Cotton print for lining pieces and binding for the facing edge (1/2 yard). Search your fabric stash for something you could use.
2 Lightweight batting Denim sewing machine needle, size 100 Thread to match the denim for assembly and quilting. For the quilting, you may substitute a thread color that matches the topstitching on the pockets if you prefer. Notes You may need topstitching thread in a color to match the topstitching on the pockets; see Step 5 in "Cut and Assemble the Denim Bag Panel." If you prefer readymade straps instead of matching denim straps as shown), purchase 1-1/8 yards of cotton webbing.
Cut and Assemble the Denim Panel 1. To salvage the back pockets from the jeans,, carefully insert the point of a seam ripper between the pocket and the jeans and cut stitches all around. Depending on how the pockets were attached, this pocket removal method may or may not leave the pocket topstitching intact. You will replace the topstitching later if it has come undone.
2. Cut off both pant legs just below the worn knees.
3
3. Cut the legs apart along the outside seamline (the one that isn't topstitched), and then cut away the seam allowances on each piece.
4. Cut away the bulky turned hem allowance on each leg.
5. You should have two roughly shaped rectangles. Straighten the edges to make two rectangles the same size. 6. Arrange the rectangles on top of each other with wrong sides facing as shown in the photo on the next page. Shift the top piece so the bulky topstitched seam lies below the seam allowance on the bottom piece, to avoid bulk in the side seams. Then trim each rectangle to 11-1/2" x 14". Offsetting the seam allowances is necessary to eliminate a really bulky area that you won't be able to stitch over Note: If the rectangles cut from the lower legs are wide enough, you can cut the panel wider an inch or two wider or a larger bag.
4
Offset the seam allowances to avoid bulk.
7. With right sides facing, sew the two denim rectangles together at the lower edges and press the seam allowance to one side. On the right side of the bag, stitch close to the turned edge of the seam, through all layers.
Stitch 1/4" from the bottom edges.
Press seam to one side and edgestitch.
8. Measure the denim panel and cut a lining rectangle that is at least 1" larger all around. Cut a rectangle of lightweight batting (or substitute lightweight cotton flannel if you prefer), making it 3" shorter and the same width as the rectangle. The shorter batting panel eliminates bulk in the turn-under facing at the upper edge of the bag. 9. Center the batting on the wrong side of the denim panel with the short edges 1-1/2" from the denim short edges. Trim if necessary (some batting stretches when handled). Make sure there are no wrinkles.
5
Batting is 1-1/2" from both short edges of denim. 10. Place the denim/batting panel, batting side down, on the wrong side of the lining with excess lining extending past all edges. Smooth in place and baste with pins (or use temporary spray adhesive to attach the lining if desired). 11. Quilt as desired. Trim the excess lining even with the denim raw edges and set aside for the "Finishing" steps below. Don't try to quilt over the horizontal seam allowances.
Cut and Assemble the Inside Hanging Pocket 1. Cutting along the seamlines, cut the remaining upper section of the back legs apart so that you can use them for the straps and a backing for the inside hanging pocket.
Salvaged back legs of jeans
2. For the inside hanging pocket, place the most worn* pocket on one of the back legs in the widest area (by the crotch curve) allowing for room all around so you can cut it 1" larger than the sides and bottom edges and 2-1/2" larger at the upper edge. Mark and cut out. See the photo on the next page. * You can see the worn imprint of my husband' wallet in the pocket shown below.
6
2-1/2"
1" larger at side and bottom edges
3. Pin and then edgestitch the side and bottom edges of the pocket in place. If the contrast topstitching rows came undone when you removed the pocket, replace both rows with topstitching thread in a color that matches the topstitching as closely as possible. 4. Use the pocket panel to cut a matching piece of lining fabric.
5. Trim 1/8" from the side and bottom edges of the pocket lining. With right sides facing and raw edges even, pin the lining to the side and bottom edges; since it's slightly narrower, you may need to force the edges to align on all three edges.. Stitch 1/4" from the side and bottom raw edges, leaving the upper edge unstitched for turning. Clip corners and points to remove bulk. Turn right side out and press. The lining should roll slightly to the underside of the completed pocket panel as shown in the photo on the next page so it doesn't show at the finished edges of the pocket.
7
Lining should roll to the underside at the pocket edges.
6. With chalk or a disappearing ink pen, draw a line across the upper edge 1" above the upper open edge of the pocket. Set aside.
Draw chalk line 1" above the open edge of the pocket.
Cut and Prepare the Straps 1. From the remaining back leg panel, cut (2) 3" x 20" strips. If the legs are not long enough to cut strips of this length, cut 3 strips of the longest length possible (you may need to cut one from the longest edge of the leg from which you cut the pocket panel). Sew together with bias seams to make a strip at least 40" long. Press the seams open and cut two 20"-long pieces from the long strip. Note: If you prefer, you can substitute 1"-wide cotton webbing for the straps (1-1/8 yards, cut into two equal lengths).
8 2. Machine-baste 3/8" from the long raw edges of each strip.
3. Using the basting as a guide, turn under and press the raw edges. Make sure the basting doesn't show on the right side of the pressed strip.
4. Fold the prepared strips in half with the turned edges aligned and edgestitch together. Edgestich along the remaining folded edge of each strap.
Finishing 1. Determine which half of the bag panel has the larger section from the horizontal seam down. Center the remaining pocket on this half, with the upper edge of the pocket 2" above the upper edge of the topstitched seam. If the stitching is intact on
9 the pocket, simply edgestitch in place with matching thread. If the stitching came out when removing them from the jeans, edgestitch and topstitch in place, using topstitching thread to match the original.
Place upper edge of pocket 2" above seam edge.
2. Fold the bag in half with right sides facing and stitch 1/4" from the raw edges to form the side seams. Clip the seams almost to the stitching 1-1/2" from the upper edge. Serge- or zigzag-finish the long sections of the seam. The short section will be covered when the facing is turned down and doesn't require finishing. Working on a sleeve board or seam roll if available, press the short sections toward the front of the bag above the clip, so when the facing is turned down there, will be less bulk at the seams. Press the long sections toward the opposite half of the bag as far in the corner as you can reach with the iron. Turn right out, pushing out the lower corners.
Clip 1-1/2" from upper edge of each side seam.
3. Cut a 2-1/2" x 27" strip of the lining fabric for the upper-edge binding. Turn under one edge at an angle as shown in the first photo on the next page and press. Trim and discard the excess, leaving a 1/4"-wide turn-under allowance.
10
Fold the strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and edges even. Press.
4. Beginning on the back of the bag, away from the side seam, pin the binding strip to the upper edge of the bag with right sides facing. Trim away any excess strip, so it's even with the raw edge of the turn-under allowance. Stitch in place 1/4" from the raw edges. 5. Turn the binding strip toward the seam allowance and press. Wrap the binding over the seam edge and press. The binding edge will extend beyond the first stitching so it will be caught in the next stitching. Pin in place and then stitch-in-the ditch from the right side.
11
6. At each end of each strap, draw a positioning line 1/2" from the raw edge.
7. Tuck each strap end under the bound edge of the bag at the marked line, with the outer edges of the strap 2" from the side seams. Stitch in place through the center of the binding. Repeat with the remaining strap.
Place the edge of the binding at the marking on the strap end. Stitch through the center of the binding.
8. On the back half of the bag (the side without the pocket), slip the inside hanging pocket under the bound edge with the bound edge at the marked line as shown in the photo on the next page. Note that the strap lies on top of the pocket. Center it between the seamlines and pin in place. Stitch-in-the-ditch of the binding seam to attach the pocket, backstitching at each end.
12
Place bound edge at marked line on hanging pocket; pin.
Stitch-in-the-ditch of the binding seam to attach hanging pocket. 9. Turn under the upper edge of the bag to form the facing. It should fold naturally in place along the batting edges. The facing will be 1/12" wide and the straps and hanging pocket should be inside the bag at this point. Edgestitch with matching thread. Stitch again, 3/8" from the edge of the bag.
10. With the straps still inside the bag and using thread to match the denim, stitch through each strap just below the bound edge to secure to the bag as shown in the photo on the next page. Stitch again for added security.
13
Stitch straps in place next to the bound facing edge on the inside of the bag.
11. Flip the straps up against the bound edge on the inside of the bag and pin in place. Make sure the bound edge of the facing is smooth and flat underneath the straps.
12. With matching thread, edgestitch each strap in place along the previous edgestitching. Stitch again for added security.
More Totes from Jo-Lydia’s Attic I hope you enjoyed this free pattern and that you will look for my other tote and travel patterns for sale at www.craftsy.com Below are just a few of the pattern choices you will find there.
The Quilted Carryall
Quilted Travel & Sewing Organizers
The Quilted Traveler’s Tote
Sew ‘n’ Go BeachMat Tote & Pillow
How Cute is That Bucket Bag
The Sew ‘n’ Go Quilted Handbag
Copyright 2014 Barbara Weiland Talbert All Rights Reserved. Pattern Support: [email protected] 13211 NE 7th Ave., Vancouver, WA 98685 No part of this PDF Pattern may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means including information storage and retrieval systems, unless otherwise stated, in which case reproduction is limited to the use of the purchaser. The written directions and designs as well as any photographs, illustrations, and patterns or templates are copyright protected and are for the personal use of the retail purchaser. It is a violation of our copyright to share, forward, or in any way distribute this electronic PDF pattern to any other party. It is strictly for personal use. If you wish to make items for resale, contact the publisher for permission. We do everything possible to ensure that the information included in this pattern is accurate; it is presented in good faith. No warranty is provided nor results guaranteed. Please report any technical errors to the designer by e-mail at [email protected] Thank you!
