13th Bulgarian Antarctic Expedition
23th Bulgarian Antarctic Expedition Report on the “Peaks of Tangra Mountains” Project The Peaks of Tangra Mountains Project was part of the 23th Bulgarian Antarctic Expedition research and exploration program. The Project’s main scope was to reach previously unclimbed peaks along the Tangra Mountains main ridge. Along the preplanned tasks, the expedition made a number of DGPS measurements of characteristic landmarks in the mountains to gather precise geodesic information. Leader of the 13th Bulgarian Antarctic Expedition was Prof. Christo Pimpirev. I. Project Duration Dec. 10, 2014 – Jan. 1, 2015 II. Participants Doychin Boyanov, Nikolay Petkov – mountaineers Alexandar Shopov – orientateering Yordan Yordanov, Stanimir Modev, Roman Edward – snowmobile drivers III. Geographical characteristics of Tangra Mountains Tangra Mountains are situated in the southeastern part of Livingston Island, South Shetland Islands, Antarctica. Starting from the southwest to the east, it begins with Botev Peak. Then the ridge gains altitude to the north–northeast with Kiril (1505 m), Simeon (1576 m) and Boris (1665 m) peaks, reaching its highest point at Mount Friesland (1700 m). From Mount Friesland, the main ridge continues eastward (Fig. 1). Here, starting from the west to the east, are Presian (1456 m), Lyaskovets (1470 m), Levski (1430 m), Sofia (1655 m) and Great Needle (1680 m) peaks.
Fig. 1. After Great Needle Peak, the main ridge slopes down through Vihren (1150 m), Helmet (1254 m), Plovdiv (1040 m) and Delchev (940 m) peaks to the mountain’s easternmost point near Cape Rainier.
Fig. 2 From the south, Tangra Mountains border with Prespa, Macy, Magura, Dobruja, Ropotamo and Stranja glaciers running down into Bransfield Straight. To the north it borders with the Huntress and Huron glaciers and the Moon Bay in McFarlon Straight (Fig. 3) [2].
Fig. 3 IV. Short history overview of Tangra Mountains ascents before 2014 1. Mount Friesland (1700 m, highest peak of the island): First climbed by the Catalans Francesc Sabat and Jorge Enrique starting from the Spanish base Juan Carlos I, on December 30, 1991; second ascent by the Australians Damien Guildey and John Baht and the Chilean Rodrigo Fica from Perunika Glacier, on December 20, 2003; third ascent by L. Ivanov and D. Vasilev, on December 15, 2004. 2. Presian’s Ridge (1456 m): First climbed by the Catalans Francesc Sabat and Jorge Enrique from the Spanish base Juan Carlos I, on December 30, 1991; second ascent by the Australians Damien Guildey and John Baht and the Chilean Rodrigo Fica from Perunika Glacier, on December 20, 2003; third ascent by L. Ivanov and D. Vasilev, on December 15, 2004. 3. Lyaskovets Peak (1473 m): First climbed by L. Ivanov and D. Vasilev, on December 14, 2004. 4. Zograf Peak (1011 m): First climbed by L. Ivanov, on December 31, 2004 [1]. V. Chronology of the Peaks of Tangra 2014/15 Expedition December 18. On a Brazilian military aircraft, we got from Punta Arenas, Chile, to King George’s Island, South Shetland Islands. From there, on board of the Spanish ship Esperidez, we reached Livingston Island. December 19. At 10 am (Chilean–Argentinean time), with two Spanish boats Zodiac, we managed to get on shore of Livingston Island, at St Kliment of Ohrid Base.
December 20. In good visibility conditions, with two snowmobiles driven by Yordan Yordanov, Stanimir Modev and Roman Edward, we crossed Perunika Glacier to reach the foot of South Burdik Peak. We left an equipment and tools depot there, and the snowmobiles went back to St Kliment of Ohrid Base. We continued on skis towards Orpheus Gate to reach Camp Academia. In this trip, three people took part: D. Boyanov, N. Petkov and Stanimir Modev, and R. Edward accompanied us to Orpheus Gate. From the Gate, in extremely foggy conditions, we continued towards Camp Academia following a GPS track recorded in 2013. For additional safety, we marked the route with red flags. After finding Camp Academia, we went 350 m down Huron Glacier to explore the route to Levski and Big Needle peaks. The farthest point we reached that day was Lozen Nunatak. There we found a metal sign marked N 1, left by the 2004/5 expedition. We decided it was a good place to set camp as a starting point for this part of the mountains, and the marked route to be relatively safe. After a 14 km ski trek, Boyanov, Petkov and Shopov returned to St. Kliment of Ohrid Base.
Fig. 4. Transporting equipment on Perunika Glacier with snowmobiles December 21. Rest day at St Kliment of Ohrid Base. December 22. With two snowmobiles driven by Yordanov, Modev and Edward, we headed for Camp Sofia (Fig. 5) at the foot of Lozen Nunatik. After 40 minutes on the Perunika and Huron glaciers, we transported the luggage to the camp. The snowmobiles then returned to the base along the already traced
route. Boyanov, Shopov and Petkov crossed Shipka Valley (a glacier starting from the cirque between Levski and Lyaskovets peaks) and a snowy–firn slope to reach the ridge near Komini Peak. For progressing, the running belay method was used. From Komini Peak, in heavy fog conditions, we reached 1000 m. The ridge here got narrower, the slope got steeper, and we could see some seracs hanging above us. We waited for about an hour on a small plateau for better visibility. At 2 pm we headed down for Camp Sofia. Then, after a long trek, at 7.30 pm we were back at St Kliment of Ohrid Base.
Fig. 5. Camp “Sofia” December 23. St Kliment of Ohrid Base. Strong wind and snowfall. December 24 (Christmas Eve). St Kliment of Ohrid Base. Strong wind until 11 pm. December 25 (Christmas). St Kliment of Ohrid Base. Dense clouds, snowfall. December 26. St Kliment of Ohrid Base. Windy, snowfall, dense clouds. The members of the fist group of the expedition left the Base to return to Bulgaria. December 27. St Kliment of Ohrid Base. Wind – 20 knots.
December 28. St Kliment of Ohrid Base. Windy, foggy, snowfall. We worked all day long to get water for the base. December 29. St Kliment of Ohrid Base. Scattered clouds, gentle breeze. We visited the Spanish base – Juan Carlos I. At 5 pm we started for Camp Sofia. The snowmobiles left us 350 m from there and we continued with skis to the camp. Until 9 pm we organized the camp, including snow barriers against the wind. We spent the night at Camp Sofia. December 30. At 6.45 am we started for Komini Peak (Fig. 6) and climbed the ridge towards Levski Peak. At 700 m visibility decreased to 10–15 m. We reached the last point of our previous ascent and there, again, we waited for about 1½ hours for better visibility. Then, we slowly continued through rough terrain and inclination up to 65 degrees. We met some crevasses. In such conditions, we proceeded to 1140 m (S62° 39.515' W60° 7.115'). This place is a sharp ridge, several centimeters wide, with steep slopes in every
direction. It ends with a pointed icy peak with a crevasse just one meter below the top. We determined that this was Ongal Peak. From here, climbing down and using a snow anchor, we got back to 1000 m. There, we waited again hoping for clearer skies in order to choose a different access route to Levski Peak. After 10 hours in unchanged weather conditions, we decided to go back to Camp Sofia. We spent the night at the camp hoping to change tactics the next day tracing a path under the main ridge to reach the foot of the slope leading directly to Great Needle.
Fig. 6. On the way to Komini Peak December 31. Camp Sofia. The weather remained unchanged – dense clouds above 650 m. On the satellite phone, we got information from the base that, for the following days, the trend was for the weather to grow worse. We decided to do the DGPS measurements planned in the early morning and then leave for the base. At 11.30 am, in the region of Camp Academia, we were met by the Yordanov–Modev– Edward team with two snowmobiles and with them we got back to the base. January 1, 2015 (New Year’s Day). We celebrated the New Year’s Day, in the “old” tradition, on Krum’s Boulder. Clouds above 400 m and light breeze. At 4 pm the clouds scattered and we saw the mountains for the first time. At 5 pm, with the snowmobiles, we reached 300 m after Camp Academia. From there we proceeded on skis to Camp Sofia hoping to start immediately for Great Needle. However, there was zero visibility from Camp Sofia towards Levski Peak and Great Needle. We decided to get back to Camp Academia with the skis and a sledge in tow with the necessary equipment and gear and, from there, try to reach the main ridge. At 7.30 pm we reached Camp Academia at ca. 650 m. There we put a small tent where we left A. Shopov, having intense pain from a previous leg trauma. Boyanov and Petkov headed for the main ridge up an easily negotiable snowy slope with large crevasses that could be rounded easily. Between 700 and 1100 m, we walked in heavy fog. We left marking stakes behind and we recorded our route on the GPS to find securely the way back. Above 1100 m the fog suddenly scattered and a majestic
mountain vista opened before our eyes. We could observe a sea of clouds. From the col between Lyaskovets and Presiyan peaks, we continued towards Lyaskovets with the intention to explore the route to Levski Peak and make GPS measurements. After a traverse at the base of the huge ice mushroom that is the top part of Lyaskovets Peak, we climbed vertically ca. 50 m up the ice–firn slope with 70 degrees inclination. We used a firn screw as an intermediate anchor. At 23.30 Boyanov and Petkov reached the top of Lyaskovets Peak – 1470 m (Fig. 7). We switched the satellite phone on and tried the connection with St Kliment of Ohrid Base. We used the same frequency as that of the Spanish base. In the course of one hour, we made DGPS measurements, examined the access route to Levski Peak and made detailed panoramic pictures with key landmarks on Tangra Mountains main ridge. The temperature on the top varied down to 14°С.
Fig. 7. D. Boyanov and N. Petkov on Lyaskovets Peak January 2. At midnight, we began the descent to Camp Academia. We got there in about 2 hours and called the base on the satellite phone to tell them that after a short rest we would continue for St Kliment of Ohrid Base. The Yordanov–Modev–Edward team took us with the snowmobiles at 3 am around Pliska Peak and Orpheus Gate. In 30 minutes we were again at the base! At noon we received guests from the Spanish base. We discussed at length our future plans with their meteorologist, Fausto, thanks to whom we got daily forecasts. He assured us that this was the place with the worst weather in the world.
January 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7. St Kliment of Ohrid Base. Strong winds of 20–23 knots, snowfall and zero visibility. January 8. St Kliment of Ohrid Base. Clouds above 800 m, no wind and no snowfall. The weather wasn’t perfect but we decided to try our last chance for an ascent. The forecast wasn’t promising. In about one hour the snowmobiles left us 300 m from Camp Sofia. Visibility was poor but we decided to head for Great Needle. We found the camp in a relatively good state. At 10 am we took a tent, a sleeping bag, a Primus heater, some food and a sleeping pad and started for Great Needle under the main mountain ridge. At Komini Peak we called the base on the satellite phone to get the last weather forecast sent by Fausto. We were informed that there were two layers of cloud, the first one between 800 and 1200 m and the other above 1600 m. For the next 20 hours we could rely on still weather but then it was going to worsen abruptly. From Komini Peak, we headed east through South Huron and Sofia glaciers. Glaciers are dangerous terrain including crevasse crossings on unstable snow bridges. At 3.40 pm, after climbing vertically an icy slope with rocky sections, we reached Plana Peak and the ridge leading to Great Needle. There, we entered a dense fog with no more than 20 m of visibility. After around 200 m on the ridge, we reached an icy terrace under a large serac. There, we left the tent and the other camping equipment and continued along the crest. The inclination reached 55 degrees at places and the slopes on both sides were very steep. At about 900 m the crest abutted to the main ridge. From there, we started traversing eastward across crevasses and several low icy walls up to 10 m high. We found our way thanks to our handheld GPS devices and photos of different landmarks made in clear weather. At 1200 m the cloud cover broke and we could clearly see the line of our ascent towards the ridge. At the beginning, the inclination was 35– 40 degrees but directly before the ridge we ran across the typical ice mushrooms. Climbing some of them directly, we finally got to the main mountain ridge at 7 pm. We reached the highest point there but then we saw Great Needle about 400 m to the southeast. We needed to go down following the main ridge, which, at that point, changed direction from east–to–west to the southeast. After ca. 150 m, we reached the col before the real Great Needle Peak. The Peak itself was an ice mushroom with a crevasse from the west and an overhanging wall of ice to the east (Fig. 8). At 8 pm, using an ice bridge from the west, we found a way to the Peak and all three of us – D. Boyanov, N. Petkov and A. Shopov – reached the top (Fig. 9). Till 9.15 pm we made measurements with the DGPS. With the portable equipment, we determined that the Peak was ca. 1680 m high, i.e. it is probably the second highest in the area, after Mount Friesland (1700 m according to the 2003 Australian expedition measurements). The temperature was 8 degrees Celsius. The
top of Great Needle is an 8x15 m terrace in the north direction, composed of large ice feathers, cemented together in a loose and crumbly masse at some places.
Fig. 8. Great Needle seen from Sofia Peak
Fig 9. D. Boyanov, N. Petkov and A. Shopov on Great Needle
At 9.45 pm we got back to the ridge before the col and decided to measure this peak as well, as it was a pronounced and independent summit on the main ridge. We gave it the provisional name “Sofia Peak” (Fig. 10).
Fig. 10. Sofia Peak seen from Great Needle
Fig. 11. DGPS measuring on Sofia Peak
At midnight we reached the place where we had left our equipment and spent there about one hour resting, eating and melting snow to make drinking water. Then we headed back for Camp Sofia trying unsuccessfully to reach the base on the phone. January 9. At 6 am we got to Camp Sofia. We switched the phone on and entered the sleeping bags to have some rest. The weather got worse. On the phone, Y. Yordanov from the base advised us to break camp, as they were ready to come and take us with the snowmobiles. By 7 am we broke camp and set all the equipment into the sledge, which, with the skis, we moved 200 m to a place free of crevasses on the Huron Glacier. The snowmobiles took us from there and by 8 am we were back to St Kliment of Ohrid Base. We rested for a while, then arranged the equipment from Camp Sofia. At 5.00 pm we got the news that the French vessel Le Soleil had entered the southern bay near the base and was ready to take us to King George’s Island. D. Boyanov and N. Petkov left Livingston Island the same day. January 10. We were welcomed to Great Wall Chinese Base on King George’s Island to wait for a flight back to South America. January 11. Great Wall Base on King George’s Island. January 12. Great Wall Base on King George’s Island. At 4 pm, after a short breaking of the cloud cover over the island, a Brazilian Army aircraft managed to set off and by 7 pm we successfully arrived at Punta Arenas, Chile. V. Map of the trips made in the course of the project For all distances covered during the trips in connection to the project, GPS tracks were recorded using Garmin type devices (Fig. 12, 13).
Fig. 12. Trips – general view
Fig. 13. Trips in the mountain after Camp Academia
VI. Results of the geodesic measurements during the expedition
Notes: ‘Shore’ point: At the lowest tide + 35 cm Lozen Nunatak point: Add 50 cm to height (see photo) There are situational photos for all measurement points included in the Appendix Fig 14. Results of the DGPS measurements around St. Kliment of Ohrid Base and the mountain All measurements (Fig. 14) were made with two precise devices Topcon GRS–1* provided by the Bulgarian Military Topography Service, with the assistance of Georgi Mihaylov for the training and calculations. These are two–frequency devices and the measurements and the subsequent processing of the results were made with the DGPS (Differential GPS) technology. For the points on Sofia and Lyaskovets peaks, ten–minute measurements of the highest point are given, with simultaneously working measurement station at a control point situated at the base. This control point was located after hours of measurements (Base 1, Base 2 and Base 3 points). All other points were measured with one station, between 1 and 4 hours for each point, and the subsequent calculations were made using the results from other continuously working stations in the Antarctic and the Southern Hemisphere. For photographic material from the precise places where the measurements were made, see Appendix 1.
VII. Suggestions for naming geographic places in Tangra Mountains 1. Sofia Peak (1654.93 m). Sofia Peak is on Tangra Mountains main ridge (S62 40 04.20234 W60 03 44.59795). It is situated to the east of Levski and St. Ivan of Rila peaks and, to the south, a col divides it from Great Needle. 2. Sofia Glacier. Sofia Glacier runs out of the cirque between Sofia and St. Ivan of Rila peaks, from Tangra Mountains main ridge, merging with the Huron Glacier to the north. It is blocked to the west by the rocky ridge descending from St. Ivan of Rila Peak and to the east by the ridge connecting Sofia and Plana (740 m) peaks. 3. South Huron Glacier. South Huron runs down from Tangra Mountains main ridge between Levski and St. Ivan of Rila peaks merging with the Huron Glacier to the north. It is blocked to the east by the St. Ivan of Rila Ridge and to the west by the rocky ridge descending from Levski Peak through Ongal (1149 m), Komini (774 m) and Ravda (664 m) peaks. 4. Camp Sofia. Camp Sofia was the main base camp for the expedition (S62° 38.696' W60° 8.319'). It was build for the duration of the expedition on a narrow col (429 m) between Zograf Peak and Lozen Nunatak (440 m).
Bibliography 1. Ivanov L., N. Ivanova, Antarctica, Sofia 2014 2. Ivanov L., Livingston Island, 1:120,000 scale map, Troyan 2010
Authors Eng. Nikolay Petkov, Phd Ass. Prof. Doychin Boyanov, Phd Sofia, February 20, 2015
Appendixes Appendix 1 Photos showing the exact place of each measurement point
Base 1, Base 2 and Base 3 points
Shore Point.
Wind Generator Point.
Chapel Point
Sinemorets Point
Lozen Nunatak Point.
Lyaskovets Peak Point.
Krum’s Boulder Point
Esperidez Point
The Parrots Point
Great Needle Point.
Sofia Peak Point
Fig. 1. After Great Needle Peak, the main ridge slopes down through Vihren (1150 m), Helmet (1254 m), Plovdiv (1040 m) and Delchev (940 m) peaks to the mountain’s easternmost point near Cape Rainier.
Fig. 2 From the south, Tangra Mountains border with Prespa, Macy, Magura, Dobruja, Ropotamo and Stranja glaciers running down into Bransfield Straight. To the north it borders with the Huntress and Huron glaciers and the Moon Bay in McFarlon Straight (Fig. 3) [2].
Fig. 3 IV. Short history overview of Tangra Mountains ascents before 2014 1. Mount Friesland (1700 m, highest peak of the island): First climbed by the Catalans Francesc Sabat and Jorge Enrique starting from the Spanish base Juan Carlos I, on December 30, 1991; second ascent by the Australians Damien Guildey and John Baht and the Chilean Rodrigo Fica from Perunika Glacier, on December 20, 2003; third ascent by L. Ivanov and D. Vasilev, on December 15, 2004. 2. Presian’s Ridge (1456 m): First climbed by the Catalans Francesc Sabat and Jorge Enrique from the Spanish base Juan Carlos I, on December 30, 1991; second ascent by the Australians Damien Guildey and John Baht and the Chilean Rodrigo Fica from Perunika Glacier, on December 20, 2003; third ascent by L. Ivanov and D. Vasilev, on December 15, 2004. 3. Lyaskovets Peak (1473 m): First climbed by L. Ivanov and D. Vasilev, on December 14, 2004. 4. Zograf Peak (1011 m): First climbed by L. Ivanov, on December 31, 2004 [1]. V. Chronology of the Peaks of Tangra 2014/15 Expedition December 18. On a Brazilian military aircraft, we got from Punta Arenas, Chile, to King George’s Island, South Shetland Islands. From there, on board of the Spanish ship Esperidez, we reached Livingston Island. December 19. At 10 am (Chilean–Argentinean time), with two Spanish boats Zodiac, we managed to get on shore of Livingston Island, at St Kliment of Ohrid Base.
December 20. In good visibility conditions, with two snowmobiles driven by Yordan Yordanov, Stanimir Modev and Roman Edward, we crossed Perunika Glacier to reach the foot of South Burdik Peak. We left an equipment and tools depot there, and the snowmobiles went back to St Kliment of Ohrid Base. We continued on skis towards Orpheus Gate to reach Camp Academia. In this trip, three people took part: D. Boyanov, N. Petkov and Stanimir Modev, and R. Edward accompanied us to Orpheus Gate. From the Gate, in extremely foggy conditions, we continued towards Camp Academia following a GPS track recorded in 2013. For additional safety, we marked the route with red flags. After finding Camp Academia, we went 350 m down Huron Glacier to explore the route to Levski and Big Needle peaks. The farthest point we reached that day was Lozen Nunatak. There we found a metal sign marked N 1, left by the 2004/5 expedition. We decided it was a good place to set camp as a starting point for this part of the mountains, and the marked route to be relatively safe. After a 14 km ski trek, Boyanov, Petkov and Shopov returned to St. Kliment of Ohrid Base.
Fig. 4. Transporting equipment on Perunika Glacier with snowmobiles December 21. Rest day at St Kliment of Ohrid Base. December 22. With two snowmobiles driven by Yordanov, Modev and Edward, we headed for Camp Sofia (Fig. 5) at the foot of Lozen Nunatik. After 40 minutes on the Perunika and Huron glaciers, we transported the luggage to the camp. The snowmobiles then returned to the base along the already traced
route. Boyanov, Shopov and Petkov crossed Shipka Valley (a glacier starting from the cirque between Levski and Lyaskovets peaks) and a snowy–firn slope to reach the ridge near Komini Peak. For progressing, the running belay method was used. From Komini Peak, in heavy fog conditions, we reached 1000 m. The ridge here got narrower, the slope got steeper, and we could see some seracs hanging above us. We waited for about an hour on a small plateau for better visibility. At 2 pm we headed down for Camp Sofia. Then, after a long trek, at 7.30 pm we were back at St Kliment of Ohrid Base.
Fig. 5. Camp “Sofia” December 23. St Kliment of Ohrid Base. Strong wind and snowfall. December 24 (Christmas Eve). St Kliment of Ohrid Base. Strong wind until 11 pm. December 25 (Christmas). St Kliment of Ohrid Base. Dense clouds, snowfall. December 26. St Kliment of Ohrid Base. Windy, snowfall, dense clouds. The members of the fist group of the expedition left the Base to return to Bulgaria. December 27. St Kliment of Ohrid Base. Wind – 20 knots.
December 28. St Kliment of Ohrid Base. Windy, foggy, snowfall. We worked all day long to get water for the base. December 29. St Kliment of Ohrid Base. Scattered clouds, gentle breeze. We visited the Spanish base – Juan Carlos I. At 5 pm we started for Camp Sofia. The snowmobiles left us 350 m from there and we continued with skis to the camp. Until 9 pm we organized the camp, including snow barriers against the wind. We spent the night at Camp Sofia. December 30. At 6.45 am we started for Komini Peak (Fig. 6) and climbed the ridge towards Levski Peak. At 700 m visibility decreased to 10–15 m. We reached the last point of our previous ascent and there, again, we waited for about 1½ hours for better visibility. Then, we slowly continued through rough terrain and inclination up to 65 degrees. We met some crevasses. In such conditions, we proceeded to 1140 m (S62° 39.515' W60° 7.115'). This place is a sharp ridge, several centimeters wide, with steep slopes in every
direction. It ends with a pointed icy peak with a crevasse just one meter below the top. We determined that this was Ongal Peak. From here, climbing down and using a snow anchor, we got back to 1000 m. There, we waited again hoping for clearer skies in order to choose a different access route to Levski Peak. After 10 hours in unchanged weather conditions, we decided to go back to Camp Sofia. We spent the night at the camp hoping to change tactics the next day tracing a path under the main ridge to reach the foot of the slope leading directly to Great Needle.
Fig. 6. On the way to Komini Peak December 31. Camp Sofia. The weather remained unchanged – dense clouds above 650 m. On the satellite phone, we got information from the base that, for the following days, the trend was for the weather to grow worse. We decided to do the DGPS measurements planned in the early morning and then leave for the base. At 11.30 am, in the region of Camp Academia, we were met by the Yordanov–Modev– Edward team with two snowmobiles and with them we got back to the base. January 1, 2015 (New Year’s Day). We celebrated the New Year’s Day, in the “old” tradition, on Krum’s Boulder. Clouds above 400 m and light breeze. At 4 pm the clouds scattered and we saw the mountains for the first time. At 5 pm, with the snowmobiles, we reached 300 m after Camp Academia. From there we proceeded on skis to Camp Sofia hoping to start immediately for Great Needle. However, there was zero visibility from Camp Sofia towards Levski Peak and Great Needle. We decided to get back to Camp Academia with the skis and a sledge in tow with the necessary equipment and gear and, from there, try to reach the main ridge. At 7.30 pm we reached Camp Academia at ca. 650 m. There we put a small tent where we left A. Shopov, having intense pain from a previous leg trauma. Boyanov and Petkov headed for the main ridge up an easily negotiable snowy slope with large crevasses that could be rounded easily. Between 700 and 1100 m, we walked in heavy fog. We left marking stakes behind and we recorded our route on the GPS to find securely the way back. Above 1100 m the fog suddenly scattered and a majestic
mountain vista opened before our eyes. We could observe a sea of clouds. From the col between Lyaskovets and Presiyan peaks, we continued towards Lyaskovets with the intention to explore the route to Levski Peak and make GPS measurements. After a traverse at the base of the huge ice mushroom that is the top part of Lyaskovets Peak, we climbed vertically ca. 50 m up the ice–firn slope with 70 degrees inclination. We used a firn screw as an intermediate anchor. At 23.30 Boyanov and Petkov reached the top of Lyaskovets Peak – 1470 m (Fig. 7). We switched the satellite phone on and tried the connection with St Kliment of Ohrid Base. We used the same frequency as that of the Spanish base. In the course of one hour, we made DGPS measurements, examined the access route to Levski Peak and made detailed panoramic pictures with key landmarks on Tangra Mountains main ridge. The temperature on the top varied down to 14°С.
Fig. 7. D. Boyanov and N. Petkov on Lyaskovets Peak January 2. At midnight, we began the descent to Camp Academia. We got there in about 2 hours and called the base on the satellite phone to tell them that after a short rest we would continue for St Kliment of Ohrid Base. The Yordanov–Modev–Edward team took us with the snowmobiles at 3 am around Pliska Peak and Orpheus Gate. In 30 minutes we were again at the base! At noon we received guests from the Spanish base. We discussed at length our future plans with their meteorologist, Fausto, thanks to whom we got daily forecasts. He assured us that this was the place with the worst weather in the world.
January 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7. St Kliment of Ohrid Base. Strong winds of 20–23 knots, snowfall and zero visibility. January 8. St Kliment of Ohrid Base. Clouds above 800 m, no wind and no snowfall. The weather wasn’t perfect but we decided to try our last chance for an ascent. The forecast wasn’t promising. In about one hour the snowmobiles left us 300 m from Camp Sofia. Visibility was poor but we decided to head for Great Needle. We found the camp in a relatively good state. At 10 am we took a tent, a sleeping bag, a Primus heater, some food and a sleeping pad and started for Great Needle under the main mountain ridge. At Komini Peak we called the base on the satellite phone to get the last weather forecast sent by Fausto. We were informed that there were two layers of cloud, the first one between 800 and 1200 m and the other above 1600 m. For the next 20 hours we could rely on still weather but then it was going to worsen abruptly. From Komini Peak, we headed east through South Huron and Sofia glaciers. Glaciers are dangerous terrain including crevasse crossings on unstable snow bridges. At 3.40 pm, after climbing vertically an icy slope with rocky sections, we reached Plana Peak and the ridge leading to Great Needle. There, we entered a dense fog with no more than 20 m of visibility. After around 200 m on the ridge, we reached an icy terrace under a large serac. There, we left the tent and the other camping equipment and continued along the crest. The inclination reached 55 degrees at places and the slopes on both sides were very steep. At about 900 m the crest abutted to the main ridge. From there, we started traversing eastward across crevasses and several low icy walls up to 10 m high. We found our way thanks to our handheld GPS devices and photos of different landmarks made in clear weather. At 1200 m the cloud cover broke and we could clearly see the line of our ascent towards the ridge. At the beginning, the inclination was 35– 40 degrees but directly before the ridge we ran across the typical ice mushrooms. Climbing some of them directly, we finally got to the main mountain ridge at 7 pm. We reached the highest point there but then we saw Great Needle about 400 m to the southeast. We needed to go down following the main ridge, which, at that point, changed direction from east–to–west to the southeast. After ca. 150 m, we reached the col before the real Great Needle Peak. The Peak itself was an ice mushroom with a crevasse from the west and an overhanging wall of ice to the east (Fig. 8). At 8 pm, using an ice bridge from the west, we found a way to the Peak and all three of us – D. Boyanov, N. Petkov and A. Shopov – reached the top (Fig. 9). Till 9.15 pm we made measurements with the DGPS. With the portable equipment, we determined that the Peak was ca. 1680 m high, i.e. it is probably the second highest in the area, after Mount Friesland (1700 m according to the 2003 Australian expedition measurements). The temperature was 8 degrees Celsius. The
top of Great Needle is an 8x15 m terrace in the north direction, composed of large ice feathers, cemented together in a loose and crumbly masse at some places.
Fig. 8. Great Needle seen from Sofia Peak
Fig 9. D. Boyanov, N. Petkov and A. Shopov on Great Needle
At 9.45 pm we got back to the ridge before the col and decided to measure this peak as well, as it was a pronounced and independent summit on the main ridge. We gave it the provisional name “Sofia Peak” (Fig. 10).
Fig. 10. Sofia Peak seen from Great Needle
Fig. 11. DGPS measuring on Sofia Peak
At midnight we reached the place where we had left our equipment and spent there about one hour resting, eating and melting snow to make drinking water. Then we headed back for Camp Sofia trying unsuccessfully to reach the base on the phone. January 9. At 6 am we got to Camp Sofia. We switched the phone on and entered the sleeping bags to have some rest. The weather got worse. On the phone, Y. Yordanov from the base advised us to break camp, as they were ready to come and take us with the snowmobiles. By 7 am we broke camp and set all the equipment into the sledge, which, with the skis, we moved 200 m to a place free of crevasses on the Huron Glacier. The snowmobiles took us from there and by 8 am we were back to St Kliment of Ohrid Base. We rested for a while, then arranged the equipment from Camp Sofia. At 5.00 pm we got the news that the French vessel Le Soleil had entered the southern bay near the base and was ready to take us to King George’s Island. D. Boyanov and N. Petkov left Livingston Island the same day. January 10. We were welcomed to Great Wall Chinese Base on King George’s Island to wait for a flight back to South America. January 11. Great Wall Base on King George’s Island. January 12. Great Wall Base on King George’s Island. At 4 pm, after a short breaking of the cloud cover over the island, a Brazilian Army aircraft managed to set off and by 7 pm we successfully arrived at Punta Arenas, Chile. V. Map of the trips made in the course of the project For all distances covered during the trips in connection to the project, GPS tracks were recorded using Garmin type devices (Fig. 12, 13).
Fig. 12. Trips – general view
Fig. 13. Trips in the mountain after Camp Academia
VI. Results of the geodesic measurements during the expedition
Notes: ‘Shore’ point: At the lowest tide + 35 cm Lozen Nunatak point: Add 50 cm to height (see photo) There are situational photos for all measurement points included in the Appendix Fig 14. Results of the DGPS measurements around St. Kliment of Ohrid Base and the mountain All measurements (Fig. 14) were made with two precise devices Topcon GRS–1* provided by the Bulgarian Military Topography Service, with the assistance of Georgi Mihaylov for the training and calculations. These are two–frequency devices and the measurements and the subsequent processing of the results were made with the DGPS (Differential GPS) technology. For the points on Sofia and Lyaskovets peaks, ten–minute measurements of the highest point are given, with simultaneously working measurement station at a control point situated at the base. This control point was located after hours of measurements (Base 1, Base 2 and Base 3 points). All other points were measured with one station, between 1 and 4 hours for each point, and the subsequent calculations were made using the results from other continuously working stations in the Antarctic and the Southern Hemisphere. For photographic material from the precise places where the measurements were made, see Appendix 1.
VII. Suggestions for naming geographic places in Tangra Mountains 1. Sofia Peak (1654.93 m). Sofia Peak is on Tangra Mountains main ridge (S62 40 04.20234 W60 03 44.59795). It is situated to the east of Levski and St. Ivan of Rila peaks and, to the south, a col divides it from Great Needle. 2. Sofia Glacier. Sofia Glacier runs out of the cirque between Sofia and St. Ivan of Rila peaks, from Tangra Mountains main ridge, merging with the Huron Glacier to the north. It is blocked to the west by the rocky ridge descending from St. Ivan of Rila Peak and to the east by the ridge connecting Sofia and Plana (740 m) peaks. 3. South Huron Glacier. South Huron runs down from Tangra Mountains main ridge between Levski and St. Ivan of Rila peaks merging with the Huron Glacier to the north. It is blocked to the east by the St. Ivan of Rila Ridge and to the west by the rocky ridge descending from Levski Peak through Ongal (1149 m), Komini (774 m) and Ravda (664 m) peaks. 4. Camp Sofia. Camp Sofia was the main base camp for the expedition (S62° 38.696' W60° 8.319'). It was build for the duration of the expedition on a narrow col (429 m) between Zograf Peak and Lozen Nunatak (440 m).
Bibliography 1. Ivanov L., N. Ivanova, Antarctica, Sofia 2014 2. Ivanov L., Livingston Island, 1:120,000 scale map, Troyan 2010
Authors Eng. Nikolay Petkov, Phd Ass. Prof. Doychin Boyanov, Phd Sofia, February 20, 2015
Appendixes Appendix 1 Photos showing the exact place of each measurement point
Base 1, Base 2 and Base 3 points
Shore Point.
Wind Generator Point.
Chapel Point
Sinemorets Point
Lozen Nunatak Point.
Lyaskovets Peak Point.
Krum’s Boulder Point
Esperidez Point
The Parrots Point
Great Needle Point.
Sofia Peak Point
