A38 Making potting mixes - Garden Organic
A38 Making potting mixes Plants in pots and containers need special potting mixes to grow well. Soil on its own isn’t enough as the small volume available is unable to provide the benefits it does to outdoor plants, such as disease suppression, balanced nutrient levels, etc. A potting mix takes over these roles by blending different materials. The main types are reviewed in this activity, together with useful recipes.
Resources
• Pots, trays and containers, with appropriate plants, eg, herbs, vegetables, • fruit trees and attractant flowering plants. Materials for potting mixes. Most are readily available (see next page).
Activity 1 Use the instructions on the next page. Select a potting mix recipe that suits the plant’s needs. 2 Prepare the necessary quantities of materials. One of the perks of making your own mixes is blending just the right quantities. It’s generally best not to store homemade mixes as quality can decline.
Top tip Keep experimenting
J
Getting potting mixes just right can be difficult and results variable. Manufacturers spend years getting commercial products right, while head gardeners are famous for keeping their recipes a close secret. The trick is to start by making simple recipes and work up from there.
3 Mix your materials thoroughly on a hard surface at a convenient height or on the ground for larger quantities. Use your hands, or a shovel for larger quantities. Materials should be slightly damp, but not wet. 4 Try out small quantities at first and monitor plant growth carefully.
Extended activity Find out why organic gardeners don’t use peat based potting mixes. What are the exceptions and alternatives? Tip: see the Organic Gardening Guidelines on the DVD.
Health & Safety
Potting mix ingredients are safe to handle if the usual garden hygiene rules are followed. Keep cuts covered, wash hands and keep your tetanus vaccination up to date. Follow Manual Handling guidelines (SG1.3) when moving heavy loads. If using mechanical processes or equipment, eg loam pasteurisation, observe manufacturers’ Health & Safety Advice and Guidelines on their use, particularly where heat is generated or electric power used. See also Health and Safety Guidelines (Section SG1.2)
Further information
S4.2 Using compost Organic Gardening Guidelines (see DVD)
1
Instructions for making potting mixes Example recipes Note: The following recipes are mixed by VOLUME, not by weight, so you can use anything from a bucket to wheelbarrow to measure how much of each material you need, eg equal parts leafmould and loam. Seed sowing Requirements Seeds contain their own nutrients to get going so germinate successfully in low nutrient material. Seedlings need potting on as they start growing. Easy mix Leafmould, two years old. Good basic One part loam; sieved and ‘pasteurised’ (see Top tip mix page 6). One part leafmould, composted bark, or coir. One part sharp sand or vermiculite. Use See A18 and 19 about sowing seeds. Potting on Requirements Transplants need more nutrients than seedlings to keep growing strongly, but must also grow sturdily, so don’t need excessive nutrients. Good basic One part loam. mix One part leafmould. One part home-made compost. High nutrient One part worm compost or sieved, well rotted manure mix Three parts leafmould, composted bark or coir. Use See A21 about potting on. Cuttings Requirements Very good drainage so cuttings don’t rot, plus some nutrients for early growth. Mix
One part home-made compost, leafmould, composted bark or coir. One part horticultural grit, sharp sand, or vermiculite.
Use
See A58 about taking cuttings.
Herbs that need free draining mix Requirements Good drainage so plants don’t rot, eg those from Mediterranean regions, such as sage. Mix One part loam (sieved if needed, not ‘pasteurised’). One part home-made compost, leafmould or composted bark. One part horticultural grit, sharp sand, or vermiculite. Use See S3.5 for other examples of herbs.
2
Large containers Requirements Plants growing for a long time in the same container, eg fruit trees and bushes, need a good balance of slow-release nutrients. Good basic One part loam (sieved if needed, not pasteurised). mix One part home-made compost (substitute manure for compost for higher nutrients). Add general organic fertilisers (see manufacturers’ instructions). Use See A11 about potting up containers. Top tip mix should The ideal
J
Provide the correct nutrients for the plant. Retain moisture, but drain well. Retain air, yet hold plant roots firmly. Be uniform in consistency, eg no large lumps, etc. Be free from pest, disease and weed seeds.
The ideal mix should not Reduce in volume, leaving pots, trays and containers half empty. ‘Slump’, becoming compact and airless. Become drained of nutrients very quickly or be too rich for young seedlings.
Sieving components for potting mixes, eg homemade compost, well rotted manure, etc.
Main components of potting mixes Loam Uses Source
Seed sowing, potting on, larger containers.
• Good quality garden soil. See A9 for example. • Buy bags from garden centres. • Make your own from rotting down grass turf. See A14 for technique.
Purpose
Conditions
Bulk, nutrients, excellent buffer for slight nutrient imbalances, adds weight to help stop top heavy and taller plants toppling over, good moisture retention. Sieve before use. May contain weed seeds. Pasteurise before using for seed sowing and seedlings (see Top tip page 6).
3
Leafmould Uses Seed sowing, potting on, larger containers. Source Decomposed deciduous leaves. See A40 for technique. Suitable for potting mixes after two years. Use composted bark as substitute if leafmould not available. Purpose Bulk, low in nutrients, rich in micro-organisms helpful in suppressing diseases. Conditions May contain weed seeds and slug eggs. Composted bark Uses Seed sowing, potting on, larger containers. Source Made from decomposed bark. Buy in bags from garden centres. Purpose Bulk that retains air well, low in nutrients, rich in microorganisms helpful in suppressing diseases. Conditions
May contain weed seeds. Sieve before use as can be coarse. Use only if fine and no visible lumps of wood remaining.
Home-made compost Uses Potting on, larger containers. Source Made from decomposed garden waste, vegetable peelings and paper waste. See list in B5.7. Purpose Conditions
Bulk, nutrient rich, rich in micro-organisms. Consistency and nutrient levels may vary. May contain weed seeds and slug eggs.
Worm compost Uses Potting on, larger containers. Source Made mostly from decomposed vegetable peelings and paper waste using worms. See A53 for technique.
4
Purpose
Bulk, very nutrient rich, rich in micro-organisms.
Conditions
Nutrient levels are variable. Too nutrient rich to be used alone.
Well-rotted manure Uses Potting on, larger containers. Source Made from decomposed animal waste. Purpose Conditions
Bulk, very nutrient rich, rich in micro-organisms. May contain weed seeds. Nutrient levels can vary. Too nutrient rich to be used alone. Use when fine textured and crumbly brown after 12-24 months rotting; sieve if needed. Be cautious of potential contamination with herbicides. See details in S4.2.
Horticultural grit, sharp sand, vermiculite Uses Seed sowing, potting on, larger containers. Source Natural materials, eg from quarrying. Purpose
Improve drainage. Vermiculite is lightweight so pots are easier to move.
Conditions
Don’t use softer builders’/play sand as this can make drainage worse and may affect pH levels.
Organic fertilisers Uses Potting on, larger containers. Source Nutrients derived from finely ground minerals and/or animal based products, seaweed, plants, etc. Purpose Slow release nutrients, eg bone meal high in phosphorous; hoof and horn high in nitrogen; rock potash high in potassium, seaweed high in trace elements, etc. Conditions Excess fertilisers can burn plant roots and ‘overfeed’, producing lush growth vulnerable to pest and disease attack. See www.organiccatalogue.com Coir Uses Source Purpose
Potting on, cuttings. Coarse natural fibre from the seed husks of the coconut palm. Adds bulk, eg aeration and water retention.
Conditions
Low in nutrients.
See
www.organiccatalogue.com
5
Top tip loam for seed sowing and seedlings Preparing
J
You’ll need to ‘pasteurise’ loam to kill pests, diseases and weed seeds, while retaining some essential microorganisms. Only loam should be pasteurised, not other ingredients as their structure will be destroyed. There are three options as follows. • Buy specialist soil pasteurising equipment. • Put moist soil in loosely covered bowl in a microwave oven. Sieve first as it must not contain stones because these may explode. Allow two and half minutes for 900g of soil; seven minutes for 4.5kg. This process releases a strong smell. Spread out the soil on a tray and allow to cool. • Place moist soil in shallow tray about 10cm deep. Cover with foil and put in preheated oven at no higher than 80°C for 30 minutes. This process releases a strong smell. Remove promptly and uncover. Leave to cool. Important note: Check with school policy before pasteurising soil and choose your location carefully, eg science lab. Monitor carefully, ensuring adult supervision. Pasteurising soil is good practice, but don’t worry if the facilities aren’t available, as you can use an alternative material.
6
Resources
• Pots, trays and containers, with appropriate plants, eg, herbs, vegetables, • fruit trees and attractant flowering plants. Materials for potting mixes. Most are readily available (see next page).
Activity 1 Use the instructions on the next page. Select a potting mix recipe that suits the plant’s needs. 2 Prepare the necessary quantities of materials. One of the perks of making your own mixes is blending just the right quantities. It’s generally best not to store homemade mixes as quality can decline.
Top tip Keep experimenting
J
Getting potting mixes just right can be difficult and results variable. Manufacturers spend years getting commercial products right, while head gardeners are famous for keeping their recipes a close secret. The trick is to start by making simple recipes and work up from there.
3 Mix your materials thoroughly on a hard surface at a convenient height or on the ground for larger quantities. Use your hands, or a shovel for larger quantities. Materials should be slightly damp, but not wet. 4 Try out small quantities at first and monitor plant growth carefully.
Extended activity Find out why organic gardeners don’t use peat based potting mixes. What are the exceptions and alternatives? Tip: see the Organic Gardening Guidelines on the DVD.
Health & Safety
Potting mix ingredients are safe to handle if the usual garden hygiene rules are followed. Keep cuts covered, wash hands and keep your tetanus vaccination up to date. Follow Manual Handling guidelines (SG1.3) when moving heavy loads. If using mechanical processes or equipment, eg loam pasteurisation, observe manufacturers’ Health & Safety Advice and Guidelines on their use, particularly where heat is generated or electric power used. See also Health and Safety Guidelines (Section SG1.2)
Further information
S4.2 Using compost Organic Gardening Guidelines (see DVD)
1
Instructions for making potting mixes Example recipes Note: The following recipes are mixed by VOLUME, not by weight, so you can use anything from a bucket to wheelbarrow to measure how much of each material you need, eg equal parts leafmould and loam. Seed sowing Requirements Seeds contain their own nutrients to get going so germinate successfully in low nutrient material. Seedlings need potting on as they start growing. Easy mix Leafmould, two years old. Good basic One part loam; sieved and ‘pasteurised’ (see Top tip mix page 6). One part leafmould, composted bark, or coir. One part sharp sand or vermiculite. Use See A18 and 19 about sowing seeds. Potting on Requirements Transplants need more nutrients than seedlings to keep growing strongly, but must also grow sturdily, so don’t need excessive nutrients. Good basic One part loam. mix One part leafmould. One part home-made compost. High nutrient One part worm compost or sieved, well rotted manure mix Three parts leafmould, composted bark or coir. Use See A21 about potting on. Cuttings Requirements Very good drainage so cuttings don’t rot, plus some nutrients for early growth. Mix
One part home-made compost, leafmould, composted bark or coir. One part horticultural grit, sharp sand, or vermiculite.
Use
See A58 about taking cuttings.
Herbs that need free draining mix Requirements Good drainage so plants don’t rot, eg those from Mediterranean regions, such as sage. Mix One part loam (sieved if needed, not ‘pasteurised’). One part home-made compost, leafmould or composted bark. One part horticultural grit, sharp sand, or vermiculite. Use See S3.5 for other examples of herbs.
2
Large containers Requirements Plants growing for a long time in the same container, eg fruit trees and bushes, need a good balance of slow-release nutrients. Good basic One part loam (sieved if needed, not pasteurised). mix One part home-made compost (substitute manure for compost for higher nutrients). Add general organic fertilisers (see manufacturers’ instructions). Use See A11 about potting up containers. Top tip mix should The ideal
J
Provide the correct nutrients for the plant. Retain moisture, but drain well. Retain air, yet hold plant roots firmly. Be uniform in consistency, eg no large lumps, etc. Be free from pest, disease and weed seeds.
The ideal mix should not Reduce in volume, leaving pots, trays and containers half empty. ‘Slump’, becoming compact and airless. Become drained of nutrients very quickly or be too rich for young seedlings.
Sieving components for potting mixes, eg homemade compost, well rotted manure, etc.
Main components of potting mixes Loam Uses Source
Seed sowing, potting on, larger containers.
• Good quality garden soil. See A9 for example. • Buy bags from garden centres. • Make your own from rotting down grass turf. See A14 for technique.
Purpose
Conditions
Bulk, nutrients, excellent buffer for slight nutrient imbalances, adds weight to help stop top heavy and taller plants toppling over, good moisture retention. Sieve before use. May contain weed seeds. Pasteurise before using for seed sowing and seedlings (see Top tip page 6).
3
Leafmould Uses Seed sowing, potting on, larger containers. Source Decomposed deciduous leaves. See A40 for technique. Suitable for potting mixes after two years. Use composted bark as substitute if leafmould not available. Purpose Bulk, low in nutrients, rich in micro-organisms helpful in suppressing diseases. Conditions May contain weed seeds and slug eggs. Composted bark Uses Seed sowing, potting on, larger containers. Source Made from decomposed bark. Buy in bags from garden centres. Purpose Bulk that retains air well, low in nutrients, rich in microorganisms helpful in suppressing diseases. Conditions
May contain weed seeds. Sieve before use as can be coarse. Use only if fine and no visible lumps of wood remaining.
Home-made compost Uses Potting on, larger containers. Source Made from decomposed garden waste, vegetable peelings and paper waste. See list in B5.7. Purpose Conditions
Bulk, nutrient rich, rich in micro-organisms. Consistency and nutrient levels may vary. May contain weed seeds and slug eggs.
Worm compost Uses Potting on, larger containers. Source Made mostly from decomposed vegetable peelings and paper waste using worms. See A53 for technique.
4
Purpose
Bulk, very nutrient rich, rich in micro-organisms.
Conditions
Nutrient levels are variable. Too nutrient rich to be used alone.
Well-rotted manure Uses Potting on, larger containers. Source Made from decomposed animal waste. Purpose Conditions
Bulk, very nutrient rich, rich in micro-organisms. May contain weed seeds. Nutrient levels can vary. Too nutrient rich to be used alone. Use when fine textured and crumbly brown after 12-24 months rotting; sieve if needed. Be cautious of potential contamination with herbicides. See details in S4.2.
Horticultural grit, sharp sand, vermiculite Uses Seed sowing, potting on, larger containers. Source Natural materials, eg from quarrying. Purpose
Improve drainage. Vermiculite is lightweight so pots are easier to move.
Conditions
Don’t use softer builders’/play sand as this can make drainage worse and may affect pH levels.
Organic fertilisers Uses Potting on, larger containers. Source Nutrients derived from finely ground minerals and/or animal based products, seaweed, plants, etc. Purpose Slow release nutrients, eg bone meal high in phosphorous; hoof and horn high in nitrogen; rock potash high in potassium, seaweed high in trace elements, etc. Conditions Excess fertilisers can burn plant roots and ‘overfeed’, producing lush growth vulnerable to pest and disease attack. See www.organiccatalogue.com Coir Uses Source Purpose
Potting on, cuttings. Coarse natural fibre from the seed husks of the coconut palm. Adds bulk, eg aeration and water retention.
Conditions
Low in nutrients.
See
www.organiccatalogue.com
5
Top tip loam for seed sowing and seedlings Preparing
J
You’ll need to ‘pasteurise’ loam to kill pests, diseases and weed seeds, while retaining some essential microorganisms. Only loam should be pasteurised, not other ingredients as their structure will be destroyed. There are three options as follows. • Buy specialist soil pasteurising equipment. • Put moist soil in loosely covered bowl in a microwave oven. Sieve first as it must not contain stones because these may explode. Allow two and half minutes for 900g of soil; seven minutes for 4.5kg. This process releases a strong smell. Spread out the soil on a tray and allow to cool. • Place moist soil in shallow tray about 10cm deep. Cover with foil and put in preheated oven at no higher than 80°C for 30 minutes. This process releases a strong smell. Remove promptly and uncover. Leave to cool. Important note: Check with school policy before pasteurising soil and choose your location carefully, eg science lab. Monitor carefully, ensuring adult supervision. Pasteurising soil is good practice, but don’t worry if the facilities aren’t available, as you can use an alternative material.
6
