tutorial
Kommatia patterns
ANDY...
A cozy and loose top featuring a mock turtleneck, long ftted sleeees and dropped shoulders aake it in no time using a wide range of soft knits or sweater knits
PATTERN PIECES
1- Front, cut x1 on the fold 2- Back, cut x1 on the fold
Sizes: XS-S-a-L-XL Finished length: 66 6cm (26 ¼") Difculty leeel: easy
3- Collar, cut x1 on the fold 4- Sleeee, cut x2 on the fold
CHOOSE YOUR SIZE
Andy falls generously around the body with an ease of 10cm (4") at the hips Choose your size with your hip measurement and if it falls in between two sizes, opt for the larger one Because of its loose shape, it is not necessary to combine other sizes Bust Waist Hips
XS 80cm 31 ½" 65cm 25 ½" 88cm 34 ½"
S 87cm 34 ¼" 72cm 28 ¼" 95cm 37 ¼"
M 94cm 37" 79cm 31" 102cm 40"
L 101cm 39 ¾" 86cm 33 ¾" 109cm 42 ¾"
XL 108cm 42 ½" 93cm 36 ½" 116cm 45 ½"
PREPARATIONS
Print and assemble your pattern, then cut directly into the pattern board or trace the pattern in the desired size If your height is less than 1m63 or more than 1m74, it’s recommended to adjust the pattern length to preseree the proportions of the garment
ADJUSTMENTS
The sleeees are closely ftted from the wrist to slightly aboee the elbow If you prefer to haee more ease, refer to the diagram below to adjust the pattern accordingly
Andy
Copyright © 2017 Kommatia Patterns | www kommatiapatterns com
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Kommatia patterns
FABRICS
4-way stretch knit with spandex Width: 150cm (59"), length: 1m25 (1yd⅜) **Print matching may require extra fabric. Notes: this pattern is adapted for knits with a stretch percentage of at least 40% Be sure to use the proper knit by stretching a section measuring 10cm (4") lengthwise and crosswise The section should be stretched without resistance to at least 14cm (5 ½") If not, your knit isn’t stretching enough so you will need to choose a larger size or another fabric This pattern can also be cut in thicker materials such as micro polar or sweater knit, howeeer, consider choosing a bigger size to compensate for the fabric thickness
NOTIONS & TOOLS
All purpose thread
Stretch needle
Optional: double stretch needle, textured thread and oeercast foot
CUTTING OUT
First, be sure to wash the fabric and dry it according to your liking Then, set your iron at medium temperature and press the fabric to remoee any creases Use the cutting layout below to lay the pieces on the fabric Notes: cut on the RIGHT SIDE of the unfolded fabric (S-L = seleage) BEFORE REaOVING THE PATTERN, notch the edge of the fabric as indicated on the pattern
SEWALONG
Notes: unless stated otherwise, stitch at 12mm (½") from the edge and match notches and markings according to the corresponding numbers Assemble RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, namely by placing the right side of a piece against the right side of another one – the right side being the side showing when the garment is worn Use a straight stretch stitch or a narrow and short zigzag stitch For stretch-proof seams, thread the needle with all-purpose thread and the bobbin with textured thread
**Be sure to read the entire sewalong before you start sewing. Andy
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GLOSSARY
EDGE-FINISH: with an overlocker (serger), serge cutting away the excess of seam allowances With a standard machine, stitch next to the seam stitches with a zigzag and cut away the excess of seam allowances close to the second stitches, as shown in the illustration below
STEP 01 Stitch together the front (1) and back pieces (2) at the shoulder seams EDGE-FINISH the seam allowances and press them to the back
STEP 02 Stitch together the short sides of the collar piece (3) Trim the seam allowances to half and press the seam open
With WRONG SIDES TOGETHER, fold the collar onto itself to align the long edges together and press
Andy
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Stitch the collar to the RIGHT SIDE of the garment neckline by matching up the centre front, centre back and shoulder notches To do so, be sure that the collar is stretched EDGE-FINISH the seam allowances
STEP 03 Hem the bottom of the sleeees (4) by folding the edges at 20mm (¾") to the WRONG SIDE Stitch the hems using a double needle or a zigzag stitch Press the hems
STEP 04 Stitch the sleeees to the garment and EDGE-FINISH the seam allowances
STEP 05 Stitch together the front and back of the garment at the underarm and side seams Be sure to match the hem stitches at the bottom of the sleeees to make a continuous line EDGE-FINISH the seam allowances ** If your knit curls a lot around the edges, start to sew from the top of the sleeve to the bottom edges of the sleeve and the garment.
Andy
Copyright © 2017 Kommatia Patterns | www kommatiapatterns com
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Kommatia patterns
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STEP 06 Add a bar tack in the sleeee hem First, set your machine to a zigzag triple stitch with a maximum width, and lower the feed dogs (or coeer them with a darning plate) Place the sleeee so that the presser foot opening is on the edge of the hem and parallel to the underarm seam to sew oeer the seam allowances Pull down the presser foot and press the pedal slowly to produce three stitches Release the pedal once the moeement is repeated at least three times STEP 07 To remoee bulk at the bottom of the side seams, clip the seam allowances in the hem fold line (20mm - ¾" from the bottom edge) Be sure to not cut through the seam lines Then, press the seam allowances within the hem allowance in the opposite direction
Hem the bottom of the garment by folding the edge at 20mm (¾") to the WRONG SIDE Stitch the hem using a double needle or a zigzag stitch Press the hem
Showcase your new handmade creation on social media using the hashtag #andypattern!
Andy
Copyright © 2017 Kommatia Patterns | www kommatiapatterns com
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