ASIA Nepal Kangchenjunga Traverses. The second Soviet
ASIA Nepal
Kangchenjunga Traverses. T he second Soviet H im alayan expedition had 32 m em bers, o f w hom 22 clim bers spent two years o f hard training and high-
altitude acclim atization in the C aucasus, Pam ir and Tien Shan. The leader was Eduard M yslovsky, who in 1982 made a new route with V ladim ir Balyberdin and others on the southw est face o f Everest. The expedition left M oscow on February 8 and arrived with 600 porters at their 5350-m eter Base Cam p below the norm al route on M arch 4. The Soviet clim bers with the help of Sherpas established five cam ps on the slopes o f the m ain, central, south sum m its o f K angchenjunga and o f Yalung K ang, w hich is the w esternm ost top o f K angchenjunga. O n April 9, Vasily Yelagin, V ladim ir K orotaev, Eugeny Klinezky and A lexander Sheinov ascended to the main sum m it, m aking its 27th ascent. On A pril 15, Sergei B ershov, V iktor Pastuk, M ikhail Turkevich and R inat C haibullin m ade the third ascent o f the south sum m it. That sam e day, B alyberdin, Sergei A rsentiev, A natoly Bukreev and Valery K hrishchaty made the fourth ascent o f the central sum m it. On April 16, K azbek Valiev, V iktor Dedy, G rigory Lunjakov, V ladim ir Suviga, Z ijnur Khalitov, A lexander G lushkovsky, Yuri M oiseev and Leonid Troshchinenko reached the main sum m it. On April 18, Eugeny V inogradsky, Korotaev, M ikhail M ozaev and A lexander Pogorelov again got to the south sum m it. O n April 29, Pastuk, M ozaev, Korotaev, C haibullin and Sergei B ogom olov reached the main sum m it and Pastuk, M ozaev and K orotaev continued on over the south sum m it. On April 30, the traverse o f the entire ridge began. The first group traversed from Yalung Kang to the m ain, central and south sum m its m ainly, but not entirely, along the sum m it ridges. Bershov, Bukreev, V inogradsky, Pogorelov and Turkevich m ade the 15th ascent o f Yalung K ang and traversed to Cam p V below the main sum m it. O n M ay 1, they left C am p V at eight A .M . and w ere on the main sum m it at 10:10. A fter an h o u r’s rest in m ild, w indless w eather, they continued on to reach the central sum m it at 12:40 and the south sum m it at three P.M. All five used supplem entary oxygen. This first group was accom panied to the sum m it of Yalung K ang on April 30 by A rsentiev, K linezky, Suviga, K hrish chaty, D edy and Sheinov. On M ay 1, a second group o f five attacked the south sum m it first. The leader o f the group E lagin, Lunyakov and K halitov with oxygen got to the south sum m it at 12:10 P.M. but were obliged to w ait for Balyberdin and Korotaev, who were w ithout oxygen. It was decided that all should continue on oxygen. At 3:40 they reached the central sum m it and traversed to C am p V betw een the main sum m it and Yalung Kang. On M ay 2, they clim bed to the m ain sum m it and then reached Yalung K ang at 2:10 P M . This com pleted the traverse by ten clim bers in opposite directions. On M ay 3, the main sum m it was ascended by Soviets N ikolai Cherny and Sergei Yefimov and Ang Babu Sherpa. In m ost cases the Soviets used supplem entary oxygen for safety sake. H ow ever, K azbek V aliev’s group on April 16 clim bed w ithout it. The next day, w hile the group was descending, Dr. K arpenko exam ined Valiev, who was not feeling w ell, and found that he was being threatened by edem a. (The Editor is very grateful to Dr. Kolev, w ho was not part o f the Soviet team , for this inform ation.) S v e t o s l a v K o l e v , B u lg a ria n M o u n ta in e e rin g F ederation
Kangchenjunga Traverses. T he second Soviet H im alayan expedition had 32 m em bers, o f w hom 22 clim bers spent two years o f hard training and high-
altitude acclim atization in the C aucasus, Pam ir and Tien Shan. The leader was Eduard M yslovsky, who in 1982 made a new route with V ladim ir Balyberdin and others on the southw est face o f Everest. The expedition left M oscow on February 8 and arrived with 600 porters at their 5350-m eter Base Cam p below the norm al route on M arch 4. The Soviet clim bers with the help of Sherpas established five cam ps on the slopes o f the m ain, central, south sum m its o f K angchenjunga and o f Yalung K ang, w hich is the w esternm ost top o f K angchenjunga. O n April 9, Vasily Yelagin, V ladim ir K orotaev, Eugeny Klinezky and A lexander Sheinov ascended to the main sum m it, m aking its 27th ascent. On A pril 15, Sergei B ershov, V iktor Pastuk, M ikhail Turkevich and R inat C haibullin m ade the third ascent o f the south sum m it. That sam e day, B alyberdin, Sergei A rsentiev, A natoly Bukreev and Valery K hrishchaty made the fourth ascent o f the central sum m it. On April 16, K azbek Valiev, V iktor Dedy, G rigory Lunjakov, V ladim ir Suviga, Z ijnur Khalitov, A lexander G lushkovsky, Yuri M oiseev and Leonid Troshchinenko reached the main sum m it. On April 18, Eugeny V inogradsky, Korotaev, M ikhail M ozaev and A lexander Pogorelov again got to the south sum m it. O n April 29, Pastuk, M ozaev, Korotaev, C haibullin and Sergei B ogom olov reached the main sum m it and Pastuk, M ozaev and K orotaev continued on over the south sum m it. On April 30, the traverse o f the entire ridge began. The first group traversed from Yalung Kang to the m ain, central and south sum m its m ainly, but not entirely, along the sum m it ridges. Bershov, Bukreev, V inogradsky, Pogorelov and Turkevich m ade the 15th ascent o f Yalung K ang and traversed to Cam p V below the main sum m it. O n M ay 1, they left C am p V at eight A .M . and w ere on the main sum m it at 10:10. A fter an h o u r’s rest in m ild, w indless w eather, they continued on to reach the central sum m it at 12:40 and the south sum m it at three P.M. All five used supplem entary oxygen. This first group was accom panied to the sum m it of Yalung K ang on April 30 by A rsentiev, K linezky, Suviga, K hrish chaty, D edy and Sheinov. On M ay 1, a second group o f five attacked the south sum m it first. The leader o f the group E lagin, Lunyakov and K halitov with oxygen got to the south sum m it at 12:10 P.M. but were obliged to w ait for Balyberdin and Korotaev, who were w ithout oxygen. It was decided that all should continue on oxygen. At 3:40 they reached the central sum m it and traversed to C am p V betw een the main sum m it and Yalung Kang. On M ay 2, they clim bed to the m ain sum m it and then reached Yalung K ang at 2:10 P M . This com pleted the traverse by ten clim bers in opposite directions. On M ay 3, the main sum m it was ascended by Soviets N ikolai Cherny and Sergei Yefimov and Ang Babu Sherpa. In m ost cases the Soviets used supplem entary oxygen for safety sake. H ow ever, K azbek V aliev’s group on April 16 clim bed w ithout it. The next day, w hile the group was descending, Dr. K arpenko exam ined Valiev, who was not feeling w ell, and found that he was being threatened by edem a. (The Editor is very grateful to Dr. Kolev, w ho was not part o f the Soviet team , for this inform ation.) S v e t o s l a v K o l e v , B u lg a ria n M o u n ta in e e rin g F ederation
