Beartooth Mountains, various routes. Over three trips in October and ...
M ontana
Beartooth Mountains, various routes. Over three trips in O ctober and November, Aaron Mulkey and I looked for ice and m ixed climbs in the Beartooths. We m anaged a m ajor route each trip, which made the long and rem ote approaches worthwhile. After speaking w ith several Beartooth climbers, we th in k these routes are likely new. O n Spirit M ountain, in Rock Creek Canyon, the C entral C him ney (2,200', V W I4 M6R) climbs the large chim ney right of Lunar Arête. We found com pact rock that did not easily yield protection or belays. O n the Bullet, also in Rock Creek, D aniel Burson, A aron, and I established Funeral For A nother F riend (IV W I4 M 6 + ) an extension to F uneral For a F riend (Jim K anzler and Jack
Tackle, 1978). We broke out of th e gully above th e second pitch via a rock wall an d clim bed an additional five pitches of m ainly m oderate m ixed and ice clim bing, w ith a sh o rt M 6+ crux at the headw all. In East Rosebud, on the G iants Belly of Mt. Inabnit (AAJ 2009, p. 123), to the far left of Ice Dragons (Mike Abbey and Ron Brunckhorst, O ctober 28, 2000) Aaron and I climbed a three-pitch line. Ice Fairies (III WI5) follows an iced-up corner to a ledge and the end of the ice. D o u g Sh e p h e r d ,
Colorado, A A C
Beartooth Mountains, various routes. Over three trips in O ctober and November, Aaron Mulkey and I looked for ice and m ixed climbs in the Beartooths. We m anaged a m ajor route each trip, which made the long and rem ote approaches worthwhile. After speaking w ith several Beartooth climbers, we th in k these routes are likely new. O n Spirit M ountain, in Rock Creek Canyon, the C entral C him ney (2,200', V W I4 M6R) climbs the large chim ney right of Lunar Arête. We found com pact rock that did not easily yield protection or belays. O n the Bullet, also in Rock Creek, D aniel Burson, A aron, and I established Funeral For A nother F riend (IV W I4 M 6 + ) an extension to F uneral For a F riend (Jim K anzler and Jack
Tackle, 1978). We broke out of th e gully above th e second pitch via a rock wall an d clim bed an additional five pitches of m ainly m oderate m ixed and ice clim bing, w ith a sh o rt M 6+ crux at the headw all. In East Rosebud, on the G iants Belly of Mt. Inabnit (AAJ 2009, p. 123), to the far left of Ice Dragons (Mike Abbey and Ron Brunckhorst, O ctober 28, 2000) Aaron and I climbed a three-pitch line. Ice Fairies (III WI5) follows an iced-up corner to a ledge and the end of the ice. D o u g Sh e p h e r d ,
Colorado, A A C
