Bobbi Brown 02.indd
WHEN BOBBI MET TORY
New York Fashion Week isn’t all temper tantrums and wacky make-up … CAROLINE SCOTT went behind the scenes with Bobbi Brown at Tory Burch’s Fall Presentation and witnessed nothing but calm, good manners and one very unique partnership
“
W
e share the same aesthetic,” explains
and everything she puts her hand to. Preparing 20 models in less
Bobbi Brown of her relationship with
than two hours, Bobbi doesn’t break a sweat, even once: “I never
American fashion designer Tory Burch,
get nervous, or stressed, or worried, though I may get annoyed!”
“make-up that’s clean, fresh and healthy.”
Later, Tory confides that she is, in fact, “very nervous” but “just a
On the surface, they seem a funny
calm person, really”.
pairing – Tory lives a glamorous lifestyle, in a sprawling apartment
Tory is showing her autumn/winter collection as a
overlooking Central Park, and is seen at all the best parties in town.
‘presentation’, a trend being adopted by an increasing number
Bobbi, on the other hand, loves escaping to her home in New Jersey,
of designers. Instead of stomping down a catwalk, models are
and eschews most things celebrity. “It began when I bought a pair
artfully arranged in a space, so the clothes, accessories – and
of her shoes. I rang [Tory] up and said ‘Let’s do a show’.” This direct,
make-up – can be studied up close. The space, today, is Christie’s,
no-nonsense attitude is the hallmark of her cosmetics range, books
the art auctioneers, at the Rockefeller Center; when I ask Tory why
140 | September 2008 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E I N E
Bobbi Brown 02.indd 140
P H O T O G R A P H S BY
PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N
18/08/2008 13:10:53
BACKSTAGE BEAUTY
Clockwise from above: Tory Burch speaks to the world’s press at her autumn/ winter presentation during New York Fashion Week, February 2008; models waiting backstage; Bobbi Brown’s tool kit.
she chose this particular location, she answers, without irony, “It’s central, and it’s somewhere everyone knows.” Despite being in the most enormous of buildings, with endless floors and corridors, the room set aside for preparing the models is miniscule. Models, assistants, press, PRs and photographers trip between rails of clothes, lines of
TWO HOURS TO GO ...
accessories, hair and make-up stations and their respective artists
Looking after the models are members of Bobbi’s ‘Elite Team’,
and stylists, awaiting Tory and Bobbi’s arrival. Also in the mix are
which consists of seven of her best intrenational artists. They travel
the “BobbiTV” team, a cameraman and interviewer, Jonathan, who
everywhere, working on shows, shoots and making appearances at
document Bobbi wherever she goes. They won’t rest until every
beauty counters (even here at Brown Thomas, during the store’s
last person in the room has been propped in front of the camera.
bi-annual beauty events). Although they’ve been given a ‘face map’
Rather embarrassingly, I am dragged, along with Bobbi’s lovely
detailing the look for today, still, each model is presented to Bobbi
UK Communications manager, Claire, to sit on a sofa outside and
for her approval and lightning-speed feedback. “The lips are TOO
be interviewed. At the very moment I’m asked the question “What’s
dark,” she says in an instant (we all agree), and the artist scurries
so great about Bobbi Brown?”, the make-up artist herself arrives,
away with his model to rectify the situation. The designer is next
stopping to listen before she enters the room.
up on the stool and, side by side, they couldn’t look more different: T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E | September 2008 | 141
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18/08/2008 13:11:41
BACKSTAGE BEAUTY RUNWAY TO REALITY When it comes to following beauty trends, can we really take our cue from what we see on the catwalks? “Well, the products we use backstage are the same as those you buy on a counter,” says Bobbi, “but you can’t take directly from what you see here today. Up on a catwalk, under bright lights, a model’s skin needs to be absolutely flawless but you don’t need that in real life.” This is the crux of both Bobbi and Tory’s relationship, and respective success: they know how to speak to real women. Today’s models are beautiful,
The crux of their RELATIONSHIP, and respective success: they know how to speak to REAL WOMEN.
admittedly, but not terrifyingly so and are more wholesome than cutting-edge cool. “Don’t over-pose!” are Tory’s last words to them as we’re moved, en masse, downstairs for the unveiling. The press pack are first
Tory in a silk blouse emblazoned with birds, a tweed skirt and
to arrive, and leave, hurrying off to file copy for tomorrow’s
wearing the most enormous rings I’ve ever seen (“by some Turkish
papers, and the room begins to swell with Tory’s friends and the
guy”), Bobbi head-to-toe in unassuming black, flats and glasses.
cream of New York society, including Aerin Lauder, Matthew
Later, when she’s finished, she slips on a “Vote Obama” fleece.
Mellon and Plum Sykes. Tory twirls around the room, graciously
Today, February 5, is Super Tuesday, after all, and I overhear her
greeting guests and giving interviews. Bobbi, on the other hand,
asking models if they’ve made time to go vote. Right here, in this
is nowhere to be seen. Job done, she’s gone ... back to reality.
cramped room, in one of the world’s most gilded institutions, she’s in a fashion bubble but Bobbi is very socially aware; this morning, she was doing make-up for the Heart Truth Red Dress Show, which raises awareness of heart disease among women, and she also donates funds and cosmetics to Dress for Success, a non-profit organisation that helps disadvantaged women re-entering the workforce.
THE LOOK So how much time goes into developing the look for a particular show? “Well, Tory and I spoke once or twice before today but I only prepared the look two days ago – it’s pointless any earlier as designers always change their mind! Today, we’re using just eight products – the look’s always natural with Tory,” she tells me, as I admire her drawing a sleek liquid line, with Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner, across a model’s eyelids. “The black line’s a timeless classic.” The pared-back look partners perfectly with Tory’s collection, which is seventies in style – “a little bit hippie, a little rock ‘n’ roll” – with a splattering of browns, reds, mustards, paisley prints and tassels. Tory urges me to “Please, please look at the bags”. She has every right to be proud: four months later, she wins the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) award for Accessory Designer of the Year. It’s hard to say whether fashion trends influence beauty trends, or vice versa, but when Bobbi’s autumn make-up – the Mauve Collection – arrives on my desk a few months later, it too takes its cue from vintage hues ...
142 | September 2008 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
Bobbi Brown 02.indd 142
18/08/2008 13:12:29
New York Fashion Week isn’t all temper tantrums and wacky make-up … CAROLINE SCOTT went behind the scenes with Bobbi Brown at Tory Burch’s Fall Presentation and witnessed nothing but calm, good manners and one very unique partnership
“
W
e share the same aesthetic,” explains
and everything she puts her hand to. Preparing 20 models in less
Bobbi Brown of her relationship with
than two hours, Bobbi doesn’t break a sweat, even once: “I never
American fashion designer Tory Burch,
get nervous, or stressed, or worried, though I may get annoyed!”
“make-up that’s clean, fresh and healthy.”
Later, Tory confides that she is, in fact, “very nervous” but “just a
On the surface, they seem a funny
calm person, really”.
pairing – Tory lives a glamorous lifestyle, in a sprawling apartment
Tory is showing her autumn/winter collection as a
overlooking Central Park, and is seen at all the best parties in town.
‘presentation’, a trend being adopted by an increasing number
Bobbi, on the other hand, loves escaping to her home in New Jersey,
of designers. Instead of stomping down a catwalk, models are
and eschews most things celebrity. “It began when I bought a pair
artfully arranged in a space, so the clothes, accessories – and
of her shoes. I rang [Tory] up and said ‘Let’s do a show’.” This direct,
make-up – can be studied up close. The space, today, is Christie’s,
no-nonsense attitude is the hallmark of her cosmetics range, books
the art auctioneers, at the Rockefeller Center; when I ask Tory why
140 | September 2008 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E I N E
Bobbi Brown 02.indd 140
P H O T O G R A P H S BY
PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N
18/08/2008 13:10:53
BACKSTAGE BEAUTY
Clockwise from above: Tory Burch speaks to the world’s press at her autumn/ winter presentation during New York Fashion Week, February 2008; models waiting backstage; Bobbi Brown’s tool kit.
she chose this particular location, she answers, without irony, “It’s central, and it’s somewhere everyone knows.” Despite being in the most enormous of buildings, with endless floors and corridors, the room set aside for preparing the models is miniscule. Models, assistants, press, PRs and photographers trip between rails of clothes, lines of
TWO HOURS TO GO ...
accessories, hair and make-up stations and their respective artists
Looking after the models are members of Bobbi’s ‘Elite Team’,
and stylists, awaiting Tory and Bobbi’s arrival. Also in the mix are
which consists of seven of her best intrenational artists. They travel
the “BobbiTV” team, a cameraman and interviewer, Jonathan, who
everywhere, working on shows, shoots and making appearances at
document Bobbi wherever she goes. They won’t rest until every
beauty counters (even here at Brown Thomas, during the store’s
last person in the room has been propped in front of the camera.
bi-annual beauty events). Although they’ve been given a ‘face map’
Rather embarrassingly, I am dragged, along with Bobbi’s lovely
detailing the look for today, still, each model is presented to Bobbi
UK Communications manager, Claire, to sit on a sofa outside and
for her approval and lightning-speed feedback. “The lips are TOO
be interviewed. At the very moment I’m asked the question “What’s
dark,” she says in an instant (we all agree), and the artist scurries
so great about Bobbi Brown?”, the make-up artist herself arrives,
away with his model to rectify the situation. The designer is next
stopping to listen before she enters the room.
up on the stool and, side by side, they couldn’t look more different: T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E | September 2008 | 141
Bobbi Brown 02.indd 141
18/08/2008 13:11:41
BACKSTAGE BEAUTY RUNWAY TO REALITY When it comes to following beauty trends, can we really take our cue from what we see on the catwalks? “Well, the products we use backstage are the same as those you buy on a counter,” says Bobbi, “but you can’t take directly from what you see here today. Up on a catwalk, under bright lights, a model’s skin needs to be absolutely flawless but you don’t need that in real life.” This is the crux of both Bobbi and Tory’s relationship, and respective success: they know how to speak to real women. Today’s models are beautiful,
The crux of their RELATIONSHIP, and respective success: they know how to speak to REAL WOMEN.
admittedly, but not terrifyingly so and are more wholesome than cutting-edge cool. “Don’t over-pose!” are Tory’s last words to them as we’re moved, en masse, downstairs for the unveiling. The press pack are first
Tory in a silk blouse emblazoned with birds, a tweed skirt and
to arrive, and leave, hurrying off to file copy for tomorrow’s
wearing the most enormous rings I’ve ever seen (“by some Turkish
papers, and the room begins to swell with Tory’s friends and the
guy”), Bobbi head-to-toe in unassuming black, flats and glasses.
cream of New York society, including Aerin Lauder, Matthew
Later, when she’s finished, she slips on a “Vote Obama” fleece.
Mellon and Plum Sykes. Tory twirls around the room, graciously
Today, February 5, is Super Tuesday, after all, and I overhear her
greeting guests and giving interviews. Bobbi, on the other hand,
asking models if they’ve made time to go vote. Right here, in this
is nowhere to be seen. Job done, she’s gone ... back to reality.
cramped room, in one of the world’s most gilded institutions, she’s in a fashion bubble but Bobbi is very socially aware; this morning, she was doing make-up for the Heart Truth Red Dress Show, which raises awareness of heart disease among women, and she also donates funds and cosmetics to Dress for Success, a non-profit organisation that helps disadvantaged women re-entering the workforce.
THE LOOK So how much time goes into developing the look for a particular show? “Well, Tory and I spoke once or twice before today but I only prepared the look two days ago – it’s pointless any earlier as designers always change their mind! Today, we’re using just eight products – the look’s always natural with Tory,” she tells me, as I admire her drawing a sleek liquid line, with Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner, across a model’s eyelids. “The black line’s a timeless classic.” The pared-back look partners perfectly with Tory’s collection, which is seventies in style – “a little bit hippie, a little rock ‘n’ roll” – with a splattering of browns, reds, mustards, paisley prints and tassels. Tory urges me to “Please, please look at the bags”. She has every right to be proud: four months later, she wins the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) award for Accessory Designer of the Year. It’s hard to say whether fashion trends influence beauty trends, or vice versa, but when Bobbi’s autumn make-up – the Mauve Collection – arrives on my desk a few months later, it too takes its cue from vintage hues ...
142 | September 2008 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E
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18/08/2008 13:12:29
