Broad Peak, Central Summits. A Polish expedition from Wroclaw

Broad Peak, Central Sum m its. A Polish expedition from Wrocl aw consisted of 15 climbers under the leadership of Janusz F ereński. Their Base Cam p was established at 16,400 feet on the G odw in Austen G lacier on June 30. The route followed the A ustrian route of 1957 w ith some variants, keeping more on the crest of the buttress. Cam ps I, II and III were at 19,000, 21,500 and 23,625 feet. On July 28 Rom an Bebak, K azim ierz Gl azek, M arek K ęsicki, Janusz K uliś, Bogdan N ow aczyk and A ndrzej Sirokski set off for the summ it of the central peak (c. 26,300 feet) but in the afternoon Bebak w ithdrew while still below the col between the m ain and central peaks. Right above the col and near the top were two difficult rock steps. A t 7:30 P.M . the five other climbers reached the sum m it of the central peak. A fter descending most of the fairly difficult ridge in the dark under worsening w eather, they decided to rappel to a snow terrace on the west side, which led back to the col. N ow aczyk was lost when his rappel rope came adrift and plunged down the Chinese side. This was their only rope. D uring the unroped descent further on the icy slopes K ęsicki, Sikorski and Kulis slipped at different times. Kulis m anaged to arrest himself, but the other two fell to their deaths. H a l i n a C i e p l i Ń s k a - B o j a r s k a , K lub W ysokogórskiego, Poland