Cordillera Apolobamba, various ascents. In July and August we did ...
C
o r d il l e r a
A
polobam ba
Cordillera Apolobamba, various ascents. In July and August we did som e climbs in a rem ote area o f the Peruvian A polobam ba along the Peru-Bolivia border. Few clim bers have visited this area. In 2004 Peter B utzham m er, B enjam in Reuter, Dr. Stepfan Fuchs, and I had already clim bed in the C ordillera V ilcanota w hen we m et H erm an n Wolf, w ho invited us to explore the Q uebrada V iscachani, in the C ordillera A polobam ba, w ith his ex pedition. His team also inclu d ed G erd D auch, M anni O berm eier, an d O tto Reus (w ho h ad been to th e A polobam ba w ith H erm an n in 1968). In 2004 we did th e fol low ing climbs: July 10: Suchi I / H uejolom a I (5,361m ), first ascent, n o rth ridge, probably UIAA rock II (p erh ap s III); O. Reus, P. B utzham m er, B. Reuter, Bros D elgado (Peruvian). July 13: Suchi III / H uejo lo m a III (5,243m ), first ascent, from northw est, loose rock and sand, UIAA II near the su m m it; H. Wolf, O. Reus, M. O berm eier, A. Bayerlein, A ndres Zevallos (Peruvian). July 15: C h au p i O reo (6,059m ), new route; first ascent from Peruvian side; from northw est via G laciar Viscachani, difficult due to cre vasses, cam p at 5,450m , th en up n o rth ridge to th e su m m it; Dr. S. Fuchs, B. Reuter, A. Bayerlein. July 15: Suchi II / H uejolom a II (5,238m ), first ascent, from n o rth east; H. Wolf, O. Reus, M. O berm eier, A. Zevallos (Peruvian). July
18:
S orap ata
II
(5 ,511m ), first ascent, via G laciar S orapata parallel to S orapata Crest, th en up east ridge (snow, rock, ice), th en becom ing m ainly rock to the sum m it; B. Reuter, A. Bayerlein. We know o f a G erm an expedi tio n m ade up o f U lrich Lossen, T h o m as D rexler, R obin G roschup, an d T h o m as Raab th a t had been in the area in 2005 and m ade the p ro b able first ascents o f S orapata III (5,440m , w est ridge, after clim bing over Sorapata II, D rexler-G roschupLossen)
and
Yanalom a
(5,219m ,
n o rth -n o rth e a st ridge, rock up to III+, whole team ). We also heard that an in ternational team failed to repeat o u r clim b on C haupi O rco. In 2004 B enjam in and I saw an interesting gully in the Salluyo group, b u t u n fo rtu n a te ly we d id n ’t have tim e. In S eptem ber 2006 I called B enjam in, a n d we began organizing o u r retu rn . In 2007 we m ade the following clim bs (w ith, as above, new route and first ascent claim s according to o u r research). O u r base cam p was in the Q uebrada V iscachani at 4,635m: Nevado Salluyo II (5,818m ), new route; from cam p at 5,315m, west gully (400m , T D -/TD 80° III [UIAA rock]); B. Reuter, A. Bayerlein. N evado C haupi O rco N orte (5,958m [Jordan m ap], 6,025m [GPS]), new route an d first ascent from this side; from cam p at 5,365m , w est-n o rth w est ridge (650m , A D+ 70° III); Jan Eisenstein, Dr. S. Fuchs. FA o f peak was in 1950s (Italians), second in 1960s (H erm an n W olf), b oth from the Bolivian side. C am panane II (5,307m ), probable first ascent, n o rth east ridge (m ostly rock I and II, with som e III); B. Reuter, A. Bayerlein. Yanaloma (5,219m ), new route an d first ascent from this side, southeast ridge (450m , V[m ostly III and IV]); B. Reuter, R Brosius. Nevado C haupi O rco (6,059m ), new route; from cam p at 5,450m , n o rth face (500m , D60°); J. Eisenstein, B. Reuter, M. Hoess, R Brosius. N evado Sorapata IV (5,272m ), first ascent, from base cam p up the Sorapata Crest, then descend 50m , then so u th o f th e glacier betw een S orapata II and III, th en up again (som e II rock) and across small glacier at ridge and m ore easy rock to su m m it (PD II); Dr. S. Fuchs, A. Bayerlein. Caca Yuacho C ocho (5,557m ), from northeast; J. Eisenstein, M. Hoess. A n d r e a s B a y e r l e in , Germ any
o r d il l e r a
A
polobam ba
Cordillera Apolobamba, various ascents. In July and August we did som e climbs in a rem ote area o f the Peruvian A polobam ba along the Peru-Bolivia border. Few clim bers have visited this area. In 2004 Peter B utzham m er, B enjam in Reuter, Dr. Stepfan Fuchs, and I had already clim bed in the C ordillera V ilcanota w hen we m et H erm an n Wolf, w ho invited us to explore the Q uebrada V iscachani, in the C ordillera A polobam ba, w ith his ex pedition. His team also inclu d ed G erd D auch, M anni O berm eier, an d O tto Reus (w ho h ad been to th e A polobam ba w ith H erm an n in 1968). In 2004 we did th e fol low ing climbs: July 10: Suchi I / H uejolom a I (5,361m ), first ascent, n o rth ridge, probably UIAA rock II (p erh ap s III); O. Reus, P. B utzham m er, B. Reuter, Bros D elgado (Peruvian). July 13: Suchi III / H uejo lo m a III (5,243m ), first ascent, from northw est, loose rock and sand, UIAA II near the su m m it; H. Wolf, O. Reus, M. O berm eier, A. Bayerlein, A ndres Zevallos (Peruvian). July 15: C h au p i O reo (6,059m ), new route; first ascent from Peruvian side; from northw est via G laciar Viscachani, difficult due to cre vasses, cam p at 5,450m , th en up n o rth ridge to th e su m m it; Dr. S. Fuchs, B. Reuter, A. Bayerlein. July 15: Suchi II / H uejolom a II (5,238m ), first ascent, from n o rth east; H. Wolf, O. Reus, M. O berm eier, A. Zevallos (Peruvian). July
18:
S orap ata
II
(5 ,511m ), first ascent, via G laciar S orapata parallel to S orapata Crest, th en up east ridge (snow, rock, ice), th en becom ing m ainly rock to the sum m it; B. Reuter, A. Bayerlein. We know o f a G erm an expedi tio n m ade up o f U lrich Lossen, T h o m as D rexler, R obin G roschup, an d T h o m as Raab th a t had been in the area in 2005 and m ade the p ro b able first ascents o f S orapata III (5,440m , w est ridge, after clim bing over Sorapata II, D rexler-G roschupLossen)
and
Yanalom a
(5,219m ,
n o rth -n o rth e a st ridge, rock up to III+, whole team ). We also heard that an in ternational team failed to repeat o u r clim b on C haupi O rco. In 2004 B enjam in and I saw an interesting gully in the Salluyo group, b u t u n fo rtu n a te ly we d id n ’t have tim e. In S eptem ber 2006 I called B enjam in, a n d we began organizing o u r retu rn . In 2007 we m ade the following clim bs (w ith, as above, new route and first ascent claim s according to o u r research). O u r base cam p was in the Q uebrada V iscachani at 4,635m: Nevado Salluyo II (5,818m ), new route; from cam p at 5,315m, west gully (400m , T D -/TD 80° III [UIAA rock]); B. Reuter, A. Bayerlein. N evado C haupi O rco N orte (5,958m [Jordan m ap], 6,025m [GPS]), new route an d first ascent from this side; from cam p at 5,365m , w est-n o rth w est ridge (650m , A D+ 70° III); Jan Eisenstein, Dr. S. Fuchs. FA o f peak was in 1950s (Italians), second in 1960s (H erm an n W olf), b oth from the Bolivian side. C am panane II (5,307m ), probable first ascent, n o rth east ridge (m ostly rock I and II, with som e III); B. Reuter, A. Bayerlein. Yanaloma (5,219m ), new route an d first ascent from this side, southeast ridge (450m , V[m ostly III and IV]); B. Reuter, R Brosius. Nevado C haupi O rco (6,059m ), new route; from cam p at 5,450m , n o rth face (500m , D60°); J. Eisenstein, B. Reuter, M. Hoess, R Brosius. N evado Sorapata IV (5,272m ), first ascent, from base cam p up the Sorapata Crest, then descend 50m , then so u th o f th e glacier betw een S orapata II and III, th en up again (som e II rock) and across small glacier at ridge and m ore easy rock to su m m it (PD II); Dr. S. Fuchs, A. Bayerlein. Caca Yuacho C ocho (5,557m ), from northeast; J. Eisenstein, M. Hoess. A n d r e a s B a y e r l e in , Germ any
