Devon
It was my second trip to the United Kingdom after a gap of four long years.
A beach-fringed landscape, where schedules and to-do lists hold no importance, beckons you. Enjoy a relaxing swim, surf the blue waters, sail the yacht down Dartmouth, cycle along the hedge-lined lanes, and horse-ride in the many moors. So, come and experience Devon! You’ll fall in love with the rippling landscape and rugged coast of this vibrant county. By Rathina Sankari 00
D E C E M B E R 2 014 t r a v e l+ l e i s u r e
s h u t t er s t o c k
In Love with Devon Torquay offers watersports like water skiing, sailing, diving, and wind surfing for the adventurous.
I had spent two months in London—shopped at its high streets and visited the highlands for a taste of the Scottish culture. It was time to leave the populous city and to explore the beautiful countryside. So, I hit the road and drove down to the south of England. Soon, the hustle and bustle of city life gave way to rolling hills, farms, and moors. Beech, oak, and pine trees dotted the road as I drove through disciplined traffic towards Devon county. The drive through Wiltshire and Somerset counties, with endless grasslands and shores, was long but the weather was great. The countryside was like a breath of fresh air; it brought back childhood memories of Enid Blyton’s books. Summer was here and the English were on vacation—campervans and cars lugged behind bicycles and kayaks. After all, the weather was perfect for an escape into the wilderness! The beautiful landscape of Devon, its heaths and coves, was in juxtaposition to the tall buildings of Canary Wharf and the fast-paced life of London. Devon is flanked by the Bristol Channel towards the north and the English Channel to the southeast. In summertime, the glistening blue water is dotted with adventurous sailors and the air has a lingering saline smell. With bucolic surroundings—a sun-drenched endless expanse of tumbling hills, green- and honey-coloured fields, and grazing cattle—it is not surprising that agriculture, dairy, and fishing are among the main occupations here. As the tourist season picks up, it is easy to spot visitors surfing, horse riding, kayaking, or taking long walks to the moors. There are many places offering meals and panoramic views of the coastline. While eating at one such place, the waiter recommended a visit to the prehistoric caves known as Kent’s Cavern. He also regaled me with folklores of pixies, giants, and the standing stones in the city. I was captivated by the tale of the giant Blunder bus and his four wives: It is said that the giant’s youngest wife Jennie was a beautiful and charming girl. One day she overheard a few men plotting to wreck a ship. Fearing the worst for the lives of the sailors she set a pile of wood on fire to alert those on board the ship. Fortunately, the ships’ captain noticed the fire and sent some sailors to investigate. Jennie told them about the impending danger. The captain was very grateful to her for saving their lives. In return he shared with her the secret cooking recipe of a cream. Next day when Jennie cooked the secret recipe the giant was awestruck with her culinary skills. Soon, word spread all across the land and that is how Devon got its famed clotted cream. I stopped for the night at the Exeter Court Hotel near Exeter, a historic city once ruled by the Romans. It is a beautiful hotel offering bed and breakfast accommodation, which can cost between £60 and £90, depending upon the room. A good way to explore the city and its history is by walking through its cobbled streets. The city-guided tour showcases the beautiful Gothic architecture of the Exeter Cathedral, Devon’s famous underground passages, and the Royal Albert Memorial Museum and Art Gallery. I took this opportunity to see innumerable articles associated with the city’s rich history. The Cathedrals of England calls the Exeter t r a v e l+ l e i s u r e D E C E M B E R 2 014
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T L Guide
Devon Getting There Fly to London by British Airways or Virgin Atlantic. From there you can reach Devon by road, rail, or air. Road It takes around four hours to cover the 273 kilometres from London to Devon by car. Alternatively, there are bus coaches from London on a daily basis. nationalexpress.com. To move around Devon, rent a car or take the bus service. visitdevon.co.uk Rail Trains run frequently from London’s Paddington and Waterloo stations to Plymouth and Exeter, respectively. Air The closest airport at Exeter is connected to London’s Gatwick airport. The best time to visit Devon is in the summer months, from June to September, when the weather is mostly pleasant. The idyllic villages and the beautiful coastline are ideal for scouting.
Clockwise from left: Fishing boats and motor boats of all sizes are found all across the English Channel; experience the panoramic south Devon on board the steam engine train; shimmering azure water with a light house; colourful beach huts on the Devon coast; Devonshire-style English cream tea is a not-to-be-missed-experience; Gothic architecture of the Exeter church.
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D E C E M B E R 2 014 t r a v e l+ l e i s u r e
Poirot also rode the train in the famed novels ‘Dead Man’s Folly’ and ‘The ABC Murders’. Many of Agatha’s novels are based in and around Torquay, her birthplace. Her love for the town is evident from the following lines in ‘The ABC Murders’: “why people want to go abroad when they’ve got this! I’ve wandered all over the world in my time and I’ve never seen anything as beautiful.” Much later, back on the train, I saw moors and hedges where cattle grazed and ponies stood proud. As we neared Kingswear, numerous fishing boats and private yachts came into view. The picturesque harbour has pristine blue waters on one side and green hills on the other. In the distance I could see the majestic twin castles of Dartmouth and Kingswear. The Dartmouth castle was built on the orders of the King to protect against attacks from the sea. It has witnessed both the Civil War and the Second World War. I soaked in the view as a Cormorant dived into the water to catch a fish while Seals lay by the shore as the waves lapped around. I rode a ferry to Dartmouth and thereafter took a bus to Paignton. I had covered the quaint Devon County via rail, road, and water. Didn’t someone say welcome to the English Riviera! In Devon, life is bliss. So much that it’s not easy to want to return home. At the end of my journey, I spent a few moments of solitude, basking in the glory of the beautiful landscape as the wind caressed my face. I lay down on the moors with John Keats’ song on my lips Where be ye going, you Devon maid? And what have ye there i’ the basket? Ye tight little fairy, just fresh from the dairy, Will ye give me some cream if I ask it? +
eat Try the Devon cream tea and the vast variety of English desserts such as cakes, scones, and cookies. Devon is well known for its fresh seafood delicacies—the classic Fish and Chips and other local delights. Head south of Devon for a vineyard experience and to indulge in wine tasting.
s h u t t er s t o c k (6)
Cathedral ‘the decorated cathedral par excellence’. It houses the longest uninterrupted vaulted ceiling in England and is the seat of the Bishop of Exeter. The next morning started with English breakfast and a stunning view. I followed it up with a drive through the countryside to Paignton, a town that originated as a Celtic settlement. Its pier was brimming with people. I managed to dig into some aromatic Devon cream tea and scones slathered with clotted cream and jam, before rushing to the railway station to board the Devon Belle—an age-old train with bogies of the bygone era pulled by a steam engine. I was going to Kingswear. As the train chugged along the Torbay coast I looked out to see woods lining the Dart estuary and the beautiful countryside. It is believed that the Emperor of France, Napoleon was brought here as a prisoner after the Battle of Waterloo. He was very impressed by Torbay and had exclaimed “Quel bon pays!” or “what a lovely country!” The train ride was simply magical. I spent the best 30 minutes of my life journeying through 11 kilometres of the picturesque southeast English coast watching white clouds drifting in the distance and small specks of yachts sail far away in nature’s infinity pool. Not surprisingly, I almost felt like Harry Potter on board the train to Hogwarts! The train stopped at many stations on the way and the briny waters changed colour from blue to green. The sandy beacy at Greenway had myriad rooms painted in a variety of bright colours. While other tourists and locals enjoyed a relaxing afternoon on the sun-soaked beach, I decided to visit the cottage where the queen of crime fiction writing, Agatha Christie once resided. She was a frequently traveller on the Dartmouth train to Churston Station. Her protagonist Hercule
stay The perfect place to stay is at Devon’s commercial and cultural hub, Exeter. Many hotels provide bed and breakfast accommodation. You can also stay at a farmhouse or in a Campervan.
do Dartmouth Castle This 600-year-old castle has stood guardian to the Dart estuary entrance and the port of Dartmouth. Do not forget to carry your binoculars for bird watching and wildlife sightings. Dartmouth Steam Railway Explore Devon by road, rail, and water. Avail the services of Dartmouth Rail River. For timings and prices dartmouthrailriver.co.uk English Rivera Visit Torquay, Paignton, and Brixham. The Kent’s Cavern, an archaeological site, dates back to the Stone Age. It is the perfect place to experience life in olden times. Visit author Agatha Christie’s home, explore the sandy beaches and ancient castles, or take the Dartmoor Scenic Tour for exploring the moors. Sail in the English Channel, ride ponies, go fishing, and relish the Devon cream tea. englishriviera.co.uk Shop Exeter offers high street shopping while art and craft items can be found at Appledore in north Devon. t r a v e l+ l e i s u r e D E C E M B E R 2 014
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A beach-fringed landscape, where schedules and to-do lists hold no importance, beckons you. Enjoy a relaxing swim, surf the blue waters, sail the yacht down Dartmouth, cycle along the hedge-lined lanes, and horse-ride in the many moors. So, come and experience Devon! You’ll fall in love with the rippling landscape and rugged coast of this vibrant county. By Rathina Sankari 00
D E C E M B E R 2 014 t r a v e l+ l e i s u r e
s h u t t er s t o c k
In Love with Devon Torquay offers watersports like water skiing, sailing, diving, and wind surfing for the adventurous.
I had spent two months in London—shopped at its high streets and visited the highlands for a taste of the Scottish culture. It was time to leave the populous city and to explore the beautiful countryside. So, I hit the road and drove down to the south of England. Soon, the hustle and bustle of city life gave way to rolling hills, farms, and moors. Beech, oak, and pine trees dotted the road as I drove through disciplined traffic towards Devon county. The drive through Wiltshire and Somerset counties, with endless grasslands and shores, was long but the weather was great. The countryside was like a breath of fresh air; it brought back childhood memories of Enid Blyton’s books. Summer was here and the English were on vacation—campervans and cars lugged behind bicycles and kayaks. After all, the weather was perfect for an escape into the wilderness! The beautiful landscape of Devon, its heaths and coves, was in juxtaposition to the tall buildings of Canary Wharf and the fast-paced life of London. Devon is flanked by the Bristol Channel towards the north and the English Channel to the southeast. In summertime, the glistening blue water is dotted with adventurous sailors and the air has a lingering saline smell. With bucolic surroundings—a sun-drenched endless expanse of tumbling hills, green- and honey-coloured fields, and grazing cattle—it is not surprising that agriculture, dairy, and fishing are among the main occupations here. As the tourist season picks up, it is easy to spot visitors surfing, horse riding, kayaking, or taking long walks to the moors. There are many places offering meals and panoramic views of the coastline. While eating at one such place, the waiter recommended a visit to the prehistoric caves known as Kent’s Cavern. He also regaled me with folklores of pixies, giants, and the standing stones in the city. I was captivated by the tale of the giant Blunder bus and his four wives: It is said that the giant’s youngest wife Jennie was a beautiful and charming girl. One day she overheard a few men plotting to wreck a ship. Fearing the worst for the lives of the sailors she set a pile of wood on fire to alert those on board the ship. Fortunately, the ships’ captain noticed the fire and sent some sailors to investigate. Jennie told them about the impending danger. The captain was very grateful to her for saving their lives. In return he shared with her the secret cooking recipe of a cream. Next day when Jennie cooked the secret recipe the giant was awestruck with her culinary skills. Soon, word spread all across the land and that is how Devon got its famed clotted cream. I stopped for the night at the Exeter Court Hotel near Exeter, a historic city once ruled by the Romans. It is a beautiful hotel offering bed and breakfast accommodation, which can cost between £60 and £90, depending upon the room. A good way to explore the city and its history is by walking through its cobbled streets. The city-guided tour showcases the beautiful Gothic architecture of the Exeter Cathedral, Devon’s famous underground passages, and the Royal Albert Memorial Museum and Art Gallery. I took this opportunity to see innumerable articles associated with the city’s rich history. The Cathedrals of England calls the Exeter t r a v e l+ l e i s u r e D E C E M B E R 2 014
00
+
T L Guide
Devon Getting There Fly to London by British Airways or Virgin Atlantic. From there you can reach Devon by road, rail, or air. Road It takes around four hours to cover the 273 kilometres from London to Devon by car. Alternatively, there are bus coaches from London on a daily basis. nationalexpress.com. To move around Devon, rent a car or take the bus service. visitdevon.co.uk Rail Trains run frequently from London’s Paddington and Waterloo stations to Plymouth and Exeter, respectively. Air The closest airport at Exeter is connected to London’s Gatwick airport. The best time to visit Devon is in the summer months, from June to September, when the weather is mostly pleasant. The idyllic villages and the beautiful coastline are ideal for scouting.
Clockwise from left: Fishing boats and motor boats of all sizes are found all across the English Channel; experience the panoramic south Devon on board the steam engine train; shimmering azure water with a light house; colourful beach huts on the Devon coast; Devonshire-style English cream tea is a not-to-be-missed-experience; Gothic architecture of the Exeter church.
00
D E C E M B E R 2 014 t r a v e l+ l e i s u r e
Poirot also rode the train in the famed novels ‘Dead Man’s Folly’ and ‘The ABC Murders’. Many of Agatha’s novels are based in and around Torquay, her birthplace. Her love for the town is evident from the following lines in ‘The ABC Murders’: “why people want to go abroad when they’ve got this! I’ve wandered all over the world in my time and I’ve never seen anything as beautiful.” Much later, back on the train, I saw moors and hedges where cattle grazed and ponies stood proud. As we neared Kingswear, numerous fishing boats and private yachts came into view. The picturesque harbour has pristine blue waters on one side and green hills on the other. In the distance I could see the majestic twin castles of Dartmouth and Kingswear. The Dartmouth castle was built on the orders of the King to protect against attacks from the sea. It has witnessed both the Civil War and the Second World War. I soaked in the view as a Cormorant dived into the water to catch a fish while Seals lay by the shore as the waves lapped around. I rode a ferry to Dartmouth and thereafter took a bus to Paignton. I had covered the quaint Devon County via rail, road, and water. Didn’t someone say welcome to the English Riviera! In Devon, life is bliss. So much that it’s not easy to want to return home. At the end of my journey, I spent a few moments of solitude, basking in the glory of the beautiful landscape as the wind caressed my face. I lay down on the moors with John Keats’ song on my lips Where be ye going, you Devon maid? And what have ye there i’ the basket? Ye tight little fairy, just fresh from the dairy, Will ye give me some cream if I ask it? +
eat Try the Devon cream tea and the vast variety of English desserts such as cakes, scones, and cookies. Devon is well known for its fresh seafood delicacies—the classic Fish and Chips and other local delights. Head south of Devon for a vineyard experience and to indulge in wine tasting.
s h u t t er s t o c k (6)
Cathedral ‘the decorated cathedral par excellence’. It houses the longest uninterrupted vaulted ceiling in England and is the seat of the Bishop of Exeter. The next morning started with English breakfast and a stunning view. I followed it up with a drive through the countryside to Paignton, a town that originated as a Celtic settlement. Its pier was brimming with people. I managed to dig into some aromatic Devon cream tea and scones slathered with clotted cream and jam, before rushing to the railway station to board the Devon Belle—an age-old train with bogies of the bygone era pulled by a steam engine. I was going to Kingswear. As the train chugged along the Torbay coast I looked out to see woods lining the Dart estuary and the beautiful countryside. It is believed that the Emperor of France, Napoleon was brought here as a prisoner after the Battle of Waterloo. He was very impressed by Torbay and had exclaimed “Quel bon pays!” or “what a lovely country!” The train ride was simply magical. I spent the best 30 minutes of my life journeying through 11 kilometres of the picturesque southeast English coast watching white clouds drifting in the distance and small specks of yachts sail far away in nature’s infinity pool. Not surprisingly, I almost felt like Harry Potter on board the train to Hogwarts! The train stopped at many stations on the way and the briny waters changed colour from blue to green. The sandy beacy at Greenway had myriad rooms painted in a variety of bright colours. While other tourists and locals enjoyed a relaxing afternoon on the sun-soaked beach, I decided to visit the cottage where the queen of crime fiction writing, Agatha Christie once resided. She was a frequently traveller on the Dartmouth train to Churston Station. Her protagonist Hercule
stay The perfect place to stay is at Devon’s commercial and cultural hub, Exeter. Many hotels provide bed and breakfast accommodation. You can also stay at a farmhouse or in a Campervan.
do Dartmouth Castle This 600-year-old castle has stood guardian to the Dart estuary entrance and the port of Dartmouth. Do not forget to carry your binoculars for bird watching and wildlife sightings. Dartmouth Steam Railway Explore Devon by road, rail, and water. Avail the services of Dartmouth Rail River. For timings and prices dartmouthrailriver.co.uk English Rivera Visit Torquay, Paignton, and Brixham. The Kent’s Cavern, an archaeological site, dates back to the Stone Age. It is the perfect place to experience life in olden times. Visit author Agatha Christie’s home, explore the sandy beaches and ancient castles, or take the Dartmoor Scenic Tour for exploring the moors. Sail in the English Channel, ride ponies, go fishing, and relish the Devon cream tea. englishriviera.co.uk Shop Exeter offers high street shopping while art and craft items can be found at Appledore in north Devon. t r a v e l+ l e i s u r e D E C E M B E R 2 014
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