element
NEWS 2-27
TV IQ 28-29 30-39
BUSINESS SPORT 40-43 47-56
i Monday 19 March 2018
Travel
In their
A
s I lie back in a wooden tub filled with beer, I ponder the otherworldliness of Iceland, the land of trolls and Northern Lights and unforgettable landscapes. I am soaking in a bath of beer and fresh mountain water infused with hops, yeast and essential oils. Outside, two larger tubs overlook the mountains, Eyjafjord and Hrisey Island. Relaxation is assisted by Kaldi, a local brew that is quite literally on tap beside me. The Bjórböðin Beer Spa, which opened in the north coast village of Árskógssandi last summer, claims that “young” beer is good for hair and skin. Wellness is a common theme in the far north, where Icelanders tell me that bathing and being outdoors is good for mental wellbeing. This is particularly resonant in a country that’s shrouded by darkness and cloaked in snow for much of the winter. The beer spa is just one of the quirky attractions in this less-travelled part of the country, now accessible on direct charter flights from the UK to the harbour town of Akureyri. Geothermal pools provide a more traditional bathing experience so, from Bjórböðin, I travel south-east to the natural baths at Lake Mývatn, northern Iceland’s answer to the tourist-packed Blue Lagoon. Silica and natural minerals in the water are said to nourish the skin, but that’s not the only draw for visiting these hot pools. The temperature is sub-zero but the water is a balmy 36°C to 40°C, the contrast reputedly health-bolstering. I certainly feel invigorated as I make a dash from
voices 14-18
Travel essentials
element The raw beauty of northern Iceland is now more accessible, as Bex Bastable discovers the lagoon to the steam room. The panoramic views of the mountainous, lava-sculpted landscape certainly add to the sensory experience. It is so striking, a battle scene from Game of Thrones was filmed here. Fortunately, there’s no sign of the Army of the Undead as I sip a cold glass of sparkling wine while taking a long soak in the mineral-rich waters. Nearby at the Dimmuborgir lava formations, a guide encourages me to spot trolls’ faces in the rocks. These mythical creatures loom large in Icelandic culture. It’s worth asking a local to tell you the tale of mythical giantess Grýla – who seeks out naughty
Humpback whales can often be spotted in the fjords and out at sea
insureandgo.com
children – and her offspring the mischievous Yule Lads, who leave gifts in well-behaved children’s shoes before Christmas, or potatoes if they’ve been bad. After quite a lot of relaxing, it’s time to get active. Dettifoss is the most powerful waterfall in Europe, but to get there I have to hike. This means being kitted out
In the far north, Icelanders say being outdoors is good for mental wellbeing with crampons in order to tackle the frozen, volcanic landscape of Vatnajökull National Park, which is also home to Europe’s largest glacier outside the Arctic. It is worth the effort to see the monster in action, with 500 cubic metres of water thundering into a canyon every second. About a 25-minute drive north of Akureyri, on the shores of Eyjafjord, is the fishing village of Hauganes. From here, I board a traditional oak fishing boat for a whale-watching trip out on the fjord. To combat the icy wind, I am presented with a boiler suit to
33
wear – not particularly fetching, but it does the job. Sailing north, we are surrounded by snowdraped mountains and it’s not long before we are joined by two humpback whales which come to the surface to greet us, spraying water into the air. We are transfixed as the pair accompany the boat for a memorable half-hour. Back in Hauganes, I visit Baccala Bar, which serves traditional salted cod, and neighbouring fish factory Ektafiskur. Both are run by the charismatic Elvar Reykjalin, who demonstrates the traditional way to fillet and prepare salt cod – covering it in salt for several days and then hanging it to dry. Less appetising is the Icelandic delicacy of fermented shark, which is cured in a sandy hole then hung to dry for several months, but home-made schnapps helps to wash it down. The fresh cod and chips at Baccala Bar is a welcome treat after such a peculiar taste. Although not unique to northern Iceland, the Northern Lights tend to top the wish lists of most visitors and when they make an appearance in the skies over Akureyri, I’m thrilled. It is around 9pm when I wrap up and venture out of town on a mini-bus – the
HOW TO GET THERE Superbreak offers a fournight trip to North Iceland from £749pp. The price includes return flights from 13 airports across the UK including Exeter, Liverpool, Manchester, Cardiff, Leeds and Bournemouth, plus accommodation and transfers. Activities included are Lake Mývatn and a Northern Lights tour; optional extras available include whalewatching, beer spa, and snowmobiling (superbreak. com/promotions/ incredible-iceland-breaks). MORE INFORMATION inspiredbyiceland.com northiceland.is
The fishing town of Siglufjörður (main picture) and Elvar Reykjalin (above) bex.bastabLE
less light pollution, the more likely you are to get a good viewing. I don’t have to go far to see the natural phenomenon. After less than half an hour of aurora hunting, the night sky is suddenly filled with dancing strobes of white and green light. It is entrancing, like nothing I’ve seen before. I stay and watch in awe for about an hour, trying to capture photographs on my phone, in an attempt to take a little bit of the magic of northern Iceland home with me.
Take us away with you
TV IQ 28-29 30-39
BUSINESS SPORT 40-43 47-56
i Monday 19 March 2018
Travel
In their
A
s I lie back in a wooden tub filled with beer, I ponder the otherworldliness of Iceland, the land of trolls and Northern Lights and unforgettable landscapes. I am soaking in a bath of beer and fresh mountain water infused with hops, yeast and essential oils. Outside, two larger tubs overlook the mountains, Eyjafjord and Hrisey Island. Relaxation is assisted by Kaldi, a local brew that is quite literally on tap beside me. The Bjórböðin Beer Spa, which opened in the north coast village of Árskógssandi last summer, claims that “young” beer is good for hair and skin. Wellness is a common theme in the far north, where Icelanders tell me that bathing and being outdoors is good for mental wellbeing. This is particularly resonant in a country that’s shrouded by darkness and cloaked in snow for much of the winter. The beer spa is just one of the quirky attractions in this less-travelled part of the country, now accessible on direct charter flights from the UK to the harbour town of Akureyri. Geothermal pools provide a more traditional bathing experience so, from Bjórböðin, I travel south-east to the natural baths at Lake Mývatn, northern Iceland’s answer to the tourist-packed Blue Lagoon. Silica and natural minerals in the water are said to nourish the skin, but that’s not the only draw for visiting these hot pools. The temperature is sub-zero but the water is a balmy 36°C to 40°C, the contrast reputedly health-bolstering. I certainly feel invigorated as I make a dash from
voices 14-18
Travel essentials
element The raw beauty of northern Iceland is now more accessible, as Bex Bastable discovers the lagoon to the steam room. The panoramic views of the mountainous, lava-sculpted landscape certainly add to the sensory experience. It is so striking, a battle scene from Game of Thrones was filmed here. Fortunately, there’s no sign of the Army of the Undead as I sip a cold glass of sparkling wine while taking a long soak in the mineral-rich waters. Nearby at the Dimmuborgir lava formations, a guide encourages me to spot trolls’ faces in the rocks. These mythical creatures loom large in Icelandic culture. It’s worth asking a local to tell you the tale of mythical giantess Grýla – who seeks out naughty
Humpback whales can often be spotted in the fjords and out at sea
insureandgo.com
children – and her offspring the mischievous Yule Lads, who leave gifts in well-behaved children’s shoes before Christmas, or potatoes if they’ve been bad. After quite a lot of relaxing, it’s time to get active. Dettifoss is the most powerful waterfall in Europe, but to get there I have to hike. This means being kitted out
In the far north, Icelanders say being outdoors is good for mental wellbeing with crampons in order to tackle the frozen, volcanic landscape of Vatnajökull National Park, which is also home to Europe’s largest glacier outside the Arctic. It is worth the effort to see the monster in action, with 500 cubic metres of water thundering into a canyon every second. About a 25-minute drive north of Akureyri, on the shores of Eyjafjord, is the fishing village of Hauganes. From here, I board a traditional oak fishing boat for a whale-watching trip out on the fjord. To combat the icy wind, I am presented with a boiler suit to
33
wear – not particularly fetching, but it does the job. Sailing north, we are surrounded by snowdraped mountains and it’s not long before we are joined by two humpback whales which come to the surface to greet us, spraying water into the air. We are transfixed as the pair accompany the boat for a memorable half-hour. Back in Hauganes, I visit Baccala Bar, which serves traditional salted cod, and neighbouring fish factory Ektafiskur. Both are run by the charismatic Elvar Reykjalin, who demonstrates the traditional way to fillet and prepare salt cod – covering it in salt for several days and then hanging it to dry. Less appetising is the Icelandic delicacy of fermented shark, which is cured in a sandy hole then hung to dry for several months, but home-made schnapps helps to wash it down. The fresh cod and chips at Baccala Bar is a welcome treat after such a peculiar taste. Although not unique to northern Iceland, the Northern Lights tend to top the wish lists of most visitors and when they make an appearance in the skies over Akureyri, I’m thrilled. It is around 9pm when I wrap up and venture out of town on a mini-bus – the
HOW TO GET THERE Superbreak offers a fournight trip to North Iceland from £749pp. The price includes return flights from 13 airports across the UK including Exeter, Liverpool, Manchester, Cardiff, Leeds and Bournemouth, plus accommodation and transfers. Activities included are Lake Mývatn and a Northern Lights tour; optional extras available include whalewatching, beer spa, and snowmobiling (superbreak. com/promotions/ incredible-iceland-breaks). MORE INFORMATION inspiredbyiceland.com northiceland.is
The fishing town of Siglufjörður (main picture) and Elvar Reykjalin (above) bex.bastabLE
less light pollution, the more likely you are to get a good viewing. I don’t have to go far to see the natural phenomenon. After less than half an hour of aurora hunting, the night sky is suddenly filled with dancing strobes of white and green light. It is entrancing, like nothing I’ve seen before. I stay and watch in awe for about an hour, trying to capture photographs on my phone, in an attempt to take a little bit of the magic of northern Iceland home with me.
Take us away with you
