Everest Attempt. We established Base Camp at the terminal moraine
E verest A ttem pt. W e established B ase Camp at the terminal moraine o f the Rongbuk G lacier at 1 6 ,9 0 0 feet on M arch 24 after a three-day truck trip from Lhasa. W e were 12 clim bers, including a doctor and two television reporters. Our plan was to clim b without porters and supplementary oxygen. W e carried five bottles o f oxygen for sleeping at high camps. During April we placed Cam ps I, II, III, IV and V at 1 8 ,3 7 5 , 1 9 ,7 0 0 , 2 1 ,3 2 5 , 2 2 ,9 7 5 and 2 4 ,9 5 0 feet. W e fixed rope on the ascent to the North Col and on the ice ridge between Camps IV and V , a total o f 1000 m eters. In extrem ely unstable, cold weather we made
our final assault in m id-M ay, supported by Juan Pardo and Luis G arcia, placing Camps V I and V II at 2 6 ,4 0 0 and 2 7 ,3 2 5 feet. The summit team , Claudio L u cero, Iván V igorou x, Dagoberto Peña and I, trapped by high winds, stayed three days and nights at Camp V II without artificial oxygen, which caused all four to becom e exhausted and one to suffer from cerebral edema. On M ay 21 we left Camp V II to bring the sick man down to Camp III. W e had an unfortunate event. Gino C asassa, without permission and without our knowledge, clim bed Changtse. This caused a series o f problems with the Chinese authorities. He has been expelled from our Federation. The other m embers were Claudio G álvez, Nelson R ivera, Nelson M uñoz, Eduardo Parvex, Jorge B assa, Santiago Pavlovic and Danilo Aravena. G astó n O y a r z ú n ,
F e d e r a c ió n de Andinismo de C hile
our final assault in m id-M ay, supported by Juan Pardo and Luis G arcia, placing Camps V I and V II at 2 6 ,4 0 0 and 2 7 ,3 2 5 feet. The summit team , Claudio L u cero, Iván V igorou x, Dagoberto Peña and I, trapped by high winds, stayed three days and nights at Camp V II without artificial oxygen, which caused all four to becom e exhausted and one to suffer from cerebral edema. On M ay 21 we left Camp V II to bring the sick man down to Camp III. W e had an unfortunate event. Gino C asassa, without permission and without our knowledge, clim bed Changtse. This caused a series o f problems with the Chinese authorities. He has been expelled from our Federation. The other m embers were Claudio G álvez, Nelson R ivera, Nelson M uñoz, Eduardo Parvex, Jorge B assa, Santiago Pavlovic and Danilo Aravena. G astó n O y a r z ú n ,
F e d e r a c ió n de Andinismo de C hile
