Huayna Potosí, West Face and Ancohuma, Cordillera Real. During ...

Huayna Potosí, West Face and Ancohuma, Cordillera Real. During June Miro and Pogačar, Viljem Božič , Blaž Jereb, Borut Kersnik, Franc Ferjan and Miha Zŭmer were in the Cordillera Real. On June 9 they camped under the west face of Huaya Potosí . On June 11 they made an acclimatization climb, traversing Maria Lloco (5522 meters, 18,117 feet) from north to south. On June 13 they started up the west face of Huayna Potosí on what may have been a new route on the left of the face. They climbed to the left of the hanging glacier to reach the ridge, which they followed to the summit. The first part was 50° and the top 60°. They had much hard, brittle ice. They bivouacked on the hanging glacier and 100 meters below the summit (6088 meters, 19,975 feet), which they reached early on June 15. They descended the southwest ridge, bivouack­ ing once more. On June 20 they jeeped to the Quebrada San Francisco and camped near the lake at 14,750 feet. On June 23 Božič , Ferjan and Pogačar and on June 25 Jereb and Kersnik reached the summit of Ancohuma by the normal route. F r a n c i S a v e n c , Planinska Zveza Slovenije, Yugoslavia