In the Hoop zipper Instructions – Centered Zipper Supplies: Floriani Wet N Gone Tacky, 7” or 9” zipper, thread to match your garment, garment/project for zipper insertion. So maybe you decided to try in the hoop zippers because the traditional zipper method you tried gave less than great results. Congratulations for trying something new. However, to get good results with this method we need to do some advance preparation. As always, please test with scrap fabric. Tips: 1. Again, test on scrap fabric first and read through all directions before starting 2. Increase needle tension to 4.0-4.6. Most embroidery machines set the needle tension much lower in embroidery mode. We want the equivalent to a regular seam – not an embroidery seam. 3. Best results are obtained using a zipper foot. Depending on the style of your embroidery foot, this may work as well, but the needle must get close to the zipper teeth and some embroidery feet prevent this. 4. Relax and have some fun with this. For larger versions of the pictures go to my blog www.beccaberry.me. Let’s get going… this is really cool. 5. First, sew the garment seam together that will contain the zipper. With right sides together (RST) start at the bottom of the garment seam with a normal stitch length of 2.0 – 2.5. Stop with needle down when you get to the point that marks the bottom of the zipper and change your stitch length to a basting stitch – more around 5 or 6, continue stitching to the top, taking a couple back stitches to secure the seam. Press seam open. 6. Hoop Floriani Wet N Gone Tacky, paper side up in the hoop size required for the zipper size. The 7” zipper will need a hoop at least 150mmx240mm in size. The 9” and 11” zippers need at least 280mm length hoop. Score the paper with a pin to peel off the paper revealing the “sticky” stabilizer. See figure 1. 7. Insert the hoop into the machine and load the design. Increase the needle tension to 4.0 to 4.6. Stitch Color 1 directly onto the stabilizer. This is the placement guide line. See figure 2. 8. Remove hoop from machine. With zipper closed, position the zipper tape so that the bottom zipper stop is even with the zipper stop line. This is VERY critical. If the placement isn’t correct, the horizontal topstitch may hit the zipper stop causing an error on your machine or you may break a needle. See Figure 4
Figure 2
Figure 1
www.beccaberry.com
Figure 3
Page 1
figure 3. 9. You may use a longer zipper tape that extends beyond the top placement line. If you do, move the zipper pull toward the top to stay out of the way when stitching. Make sure the zipper tape is well adhered to the stabilizer. 10. Place the garment seam over the zipper aligning the seam exactly over the zipper teeth and the top edge of the garment should align with the top placement line. Gently press the garment into the stabilizer to hold it firmly in place. See figure 4. 11. With the zipper foot in the far right position (body of zipper foot to the right of the needle shank), stitch Color 2. This forms the top stitch going down the right side first, then across the bottom. See figure 5 for zipper foot position. 12. When the machine stops, move the zipper foot to the far left position (body of foot to left of the needle shank) and stitch color 3, which goes back up the left side. See figure 6. 13. Remove the garment from the hoop and cut the zipper out of the stabilizer. When the garment is washed the stabilizer dissolves completely leaving you with a perfectly inserted zipper! Figure 5
Figure 6
Figure 7
Figure 8
In the Hoop zipper Instructions – Lapped Zipper 1. For the lapped zipper version the steps are the same through step 7 above, obviously, using the lapped zipper file. However the placement of the fabric is different with this version. 2. After stitching the placement line onto the stabilizer, remove hoop from machine. Unzip the zipper and place the zipper stop exactly at the placement line indicated above by the blue arrow in figure 7. The bottom of the zipper will fall very close to the bottom placement line. 3. Align the right side zipper teeth exactly on the center placement line. See figure 8. 4. Place the garment over the zipper making sure the seam is positioned over the center of the zipper teeth. The top of the garment edge should be even with the top of the zipper placement line. Finger press gently to hold the garment secure to the stabilizer. 5. Return the hoop to the machine and stitch out color #3. This is the tack down line along the bottom edge of the zipper and along the top left side of the zipper. 6. Now, remove the zipper from the hoop and trim away the stabilizer. Again, once the stabilizer is washed out you’ll have a perfectly positioned lapped zipper! Caution: Make every effort to position the zipper bottom stop at the correct placement. If this isn’t done correctly, the needle may hit the metal stop and break the needle or cause damage to your machine. Becca Berry is not responsible for zippers incorrectly positioned.
COPYRIGHT POLICY: Copyrights to all files, images and graphics are retained by Becca Berry Ltd. with all rights reserved. UNAUTHORIZED USE: It is illegal to reproduce or distribute copyrighted material without the permission of the copyright owner. Do not share these files with anyone. Give credit for authorship when appropriate and direct others to www.beccaberry.com.
www.beccaberry.com
Page 2