Je Ne Sais Quoi
Wine
That
Je Ne Sais Quoi Wine drinkers philander from region to region but it seems that passion for New World wines is fizzling out and love for the classic world wines is returning. Amour for the French varieties, in particular, is in bloom once again. Valerie Jordan reports.
D
uring the nineties French wines dominated the Irish market but in the 2000s drinkers started to look further afield. Throughout that decade wine drinkers experimented with and embraced the offerings of the New World. A 2012 report by ABFI (Alcohol Beverage Federation Ireland) showed France had a 23% share of the Irish wine market in 2000; by 2008 they had just 13%. In stark contrast, Australia had market share of 16.7% in 2000 and 26% by 2008. However, in 2012 France had clawed back to a 14% share, with the Australian share declining to 24% (The figures for 2012 are based on
official trade statistics, IWA Country of Origin Survey, and other trade sources). Figures for 2013 are not yet available but the share of French wines is expected to increase again. So what is happening? For one, French prices that originally alienated the average drinker have been coming down - at least at the lower end of the market - and prices of New World wines, which once offered the best value, are increasing. “French wines at the lower price end have improved enormously,” says Billy Kelly, French wine lover and owner of Kelly’s Resort Hotel & Spa. “They’ve 27
Wine
learnt from the New World wines that you can make a good wine at a lower price.” Secondly, wine drinkers embraced the simplicity offered by the New World - they learned quickly that they liked an Argentinian Malbec or Chilean Merlot. Now, it seems, that simplicity has become tiresome. Billy Kelly agrees. “I see a real move back to French wines,” he says. “People used to automatically come in and look for something like a Chilean Sauvignon but not so much now.” Wine Business Solutions, an Australian wine consultancy, have just produced a report that predicts a bleak outlook for New World wines, namely Australia, Chile and South Africa, but suggests that things are looking great for France. Peter McAtamney, who runs the consultancy, predicts the rise of a sophisticated drinker seeking more exciting wines. “France is obviously the most well-endowed overall,” he says. “They are also the most dynamic, which is a frightening prospect for competitors.”
Regions to Watch French wine is often perceived in terms of Champagne, Bordeaux and Burgundy – appellations that have earned a reputation for quality. However, there are
“France offers so many styles of wines from different regions using different grape varieties. As Irish consumers become more adventurous in their food choices, so they will with their wine.”
28
fantastic wines produced throughout France and, with a new emphasis on both value and quality, producers are pricing themselves back in to the Irish market. About one third of all French wine is produced in the Languedoc-Rousillon region, which has about three times the number of vines as Bordeaux. The vast quantity produced there keeps prices down and, according to Peter Dunne, Director of Mitchell & Son Wine Merchants, it’s the region to watch. “From our experience, it’s the Languedoc region that people are really beginning to discover,” he says. “They have continued to have good vintages which makes them shine out.” Peter Roycroft, Portfolio Development Manager at Findlater Wines, agrees. “Certainly in terms of value for money the Languedoc can compete with anywhere - the price of a good Fleurie or Chablis can get you a spectacular red wine from this region,” he says. “Or, for people who may be tiring of Sauvignon Blanc, Picpoul de Pinet, an appellation from the Château Font Mars vineyard, is developing a loyal band of followers here in Ireland.” The South-West is Peter Roycroft’s other region to watch. “Malbec is a grape that is winning lots of new followers, and, while Argentina has certainly led the way, Cahors, Malbec’s spiritual home, is now starting to produce very consumer– friendly styles, and new brands for the Irish market.” Alsace, famous for its Rieslings and Pinot Gris, struggled to find a market in Ireland initially but is now being accepted. “Alsace is one of the world’s best white wine regions,” says Peter. “We have found that consumers like wines such as Hugel Gentil because it offers fruitiness, aromatic complexity and is good with a range of foods.” Billy Kelly suggests keeping an eye on the Loire Valley for quality wines. “Across
Wine
regional France I predict growth in the Loire and a move to the Loire for red as well as white. It’s famous for its Sauvignon Blancs but also offers outstanding value for money for Sancerre, Bourgueil and Chinon.” Experts also believe that France’s gastro tradition will pave the way for its revival, with the Irish fast becoming a nation of sophisticated foodies. “France offers so many styles of wines from different regions using different grape varieties,” says Peter. “As Irish consumers become more adventurous in their food choices, so they will with their wine.”
The Top End At the other end of the spectrum, top-end wines struggle for a market in Ireland - the top-end of Bordeaux and Burgundy wines and, of course, Champagne. “The top end wines are proving difficult - there’s no demand,” says Billy Kelly. “People aren’t looking to spend s200 to s300 on a bottle of wine anymore.” Alternative ‘bubbly’, like Prosecco, Cava or French Crémants have encroached on the Champagne market. “We sell three times more Crémant than we do champagne,” says Billy. “A very good Crémant and a good champagne, the difference isn’t enormous but the price differential is quite substantial.” Peter Dunne agrees. “Champagne do have problems ahead I think,” he says. “They extended their plantings but by extending the region of Champagne they’re producing more than they need. Prosecco has definitely intruded on their market. I think the top-end of the Bordeaux market is getting quite difficult now too.” The top end of the Burgundy and Beaujolais appellations have also become too expensive for the common wine drinker. Peter Roycroft says that in terms of the old stalwarts of the Irish trade - Chablis and Fleurie - the current prices of these wines means they sell less than they once did.
The Outlook France produces more wine than Australia and New Zealand. However, their domestic wine drinking has declined in recent years (in 1980, 51% of the French drank wine every day; in 2010 it was only 17%) so producers are looking to new markets and driving down prices for export, which is very good news for value-seeking drinkers. Peter Dunne is positive about the outlook for French wines and advises the trade to prepare itself for a return to French wines. “People are learning more about wine,” he says. “French wine requires a little bit more knowledge and people are being more selective when they drink wine. They’ve experimented with New World wines but they’re
“Fifteen years ago if you liked Sauvignon or Chardonnay that was all you needed to know but in France the varieties are pretty far reaching. The trade needs to have a good knowledge of their products to sell wines.” beginning to think ‘I’ve never had a Côtes du Rhône or a Bordeaux’.There’s more sophistication in drinking so it’s all to play for for France. To drink French wines you need to know a little bit more about wine. Fifteen years ago if you liked Sauvignon or Chardonnay that was all you needed to know but in France the varieties are pretty far reaching. The trade needs to have a good knowledge of their products to sell wines.”
New Entrants UBI FRANCE recently held a trade show at the Aviva Stadium with the aim of securing Irish distributors for new French wines in the Irish market. Twenty-two wine producers introduced over 250 wines to the Irish trade at the event, which was organised in association with Sud de France and the Languedoc-Roussillon region. At the time of going to press, several of the wine producers had secured Irish distributors. Les Domaines Auriol secured a new distributor for their Picpoul de Pinet. Also from the Languedoc-Roussillon region, the 155 hectare estate of Domaine de la Provenquière have had several interests from the trade. A Wine to Try works for 27 wineries across France and exhibited wines from the Loire Valley, the Rhône Valley and Languedoc-Roussillon at the show. Nomad Wine Importers Ltd have since ordered their Château Haut Blanville’s Peyrals and Bergerie des Charmes. The family-owned Château la Grave de Bertin in Bordeaux are looking forward to working with a new Irish distributor in the coming months. Château Guiraud in Bordeaux, already imported by Mitchells & Son and The Corkscrew Wine Merchants, have also had new interest in their Sauternes. The Rauzan wine cellars, who represent close to 300 wine producers in Bordeaux, had several interests from the trade, including The Connemara Wine Cellar, Boyne Valley and Cases Wine Warehouse.
“French wine requires a little bit more knowledge and people are being more selective when they drink wine. They’ve experimented with New World wines but they’re beginning to think ‘I’ve never had a Côtes du Rhône or a Bordeaux’. There’s more sophistication in drinking so it’s all to play for for France.” 29
That
Je Ne Sais Quoi Wine drinkers philander from region to region but it seems that passion for New World wines is fizzling out and love for the classic world wines is returning. Amour for the French varieties, in particular, is in bloom once again. Valerie Jordan reports.
D
uring the nineties French wines dominated the Irish market but in the 2000s drinkers started to look further afield. Throughout that decade wine drinkers experimented with and embraced the offerings of the New World. A 2012 report by ABFI (Alcohol Beverage Federation Ireland) showed France had a 23% share of the Irish wine market in 2000; by 2008 they had just 13%. In stark contrast, Australia had market share of 16.7% in 2000 and 26% by 2008. However, in 2012 France had clawed back to a 14% share, with the Australian share declining to 24% (The figures for 2012 are based on
official trade statistics, IWA Country of Origin Survey, and other trade sources). Figures for 2013 are not yet available but the share of French wines is expected to increase again. So what is happening? For one, French prices that originally alienated the average drinker have been coming down - at least at the lower end of the market - and prices of New World wines, which once offered the best value, are increasing. “French wines at the lower price end have improved enormously,” says Billy Kelly, French wine lover and owner of Kelly’s Resort Hotel & Spa. “They’ve 27
Wine
learnt from the New World wines that you can make a good wine at a lower price.” Secondly, wine drinkers embraced the simplicity offered by the New World - they learned quickly that they liked an Argentinian Malbec or Chilean Merlot. Now, it seems, that simplicity has become tiresome. Billy Kelly agrees. “I see a real move back to French wines,” he says. “People used to automatically come in and look for something like a Chilean Sauvignon but not so much now.” Wine Business Solutions, an Australian wine consultancy, have just produced a report that predicts a bleak outlook for New World wines, namely Australia, Chile and South Africa, but suggests that things are looking great for France. Peter McAtamney, who runs the consultancy, predicts the rise of a sophisticated drinker seeking more exciting wines. “France is obviously the most well-endowed overall,” he says. “They are also the most dynamic, which is a frightening prospect for competitors.”
Regions to Watch French wine is often perceived in terms of Champagne, Bordeaux and Burgundy – appellations that have earned a reputation for quality. However, there are
“France offers so many styles of wines from different regions using different grape varieties. As Irish consumers become more adventurous in their food choices, so they will with their wine.”
28
fantastic wines produced throughout France and, with a new emphasis on both value and quality, producers are pricing themselves back in to the Irish market. About one third of all French wine is produced in the Languedoc-Rousillon region, which has about three times the number of vines as Bordeaux. The vast quantity produced there keeps prices down and, according to Peter Dunne, Director of Mitchell & Son Wine Merchants, it’s the region to watch. “From our experience, it’s the Languedoc region that people are really beginning to discover,” he says. “They have continued to have good vintages which makes them shine out.” Peter Roycroft, Portfolio Development Manager at Findlater Wines, agrees. “Certainly in terms of value for money the Languedoc can compete with anywhere - the price of a good Fleurie or Chablis can get you a spectacular red wine from this region,” he says. “Or, for people who may be tiring of Sauvignon Blanc, Picpoul de Pinet, an appellation from the Château Font Mars vineyard, is developing a loyal band of followers here in Ireland.” The South-West is Peter Roycroft’s other region to watch. “Malbec is a grape that is winning lots of new followers, and, while Argentina has certainly led the way, Cahors, Malbec’s spiritual home, is now starting to produce very consumer– friendly styles, and new brands for the Irish market.” Alsace, famous for its Rieslings and Pinot Gris, struggled to find a market in Ireland initially but is now being accepted. “Alsace is one of the world’s best white wine regions,” says Peter. “We have found that consumers like wines such as Hugel Gentil because it offers fruitiness, aromatic complexity and is good with a range of foods.” Billy Kelly suggests keeping an eye on the Loire Valley for quality wines. “Across
Wine
regional France I predict growth in the Loire and a move to the Loire for red as well as white. It’s famous for its Sauvignon Blancs but also offers outstanding value for money for Sancerre, Bourgueil and Chinon.” Experts also believe that France’s gastro tradition will pave the way for its revival, with the Irish fast becoming a nation of sophisticated foodies. “France offers so many styles of wines from different regions using different grape varieties,” says Peter. “As Irish consumers become more adventurous in their food choices, so they will with their wine.”
The Top End At the other end of the spectrum, top-end wines struggle for a market in Ireland - the top-end of Bordeaux and Burgundy wines and, of course, Champagne. “The top end wines are proving difficult - there’s no demand,” says Billy Kelly. “People aren’t looking to spend s200 to s300 on a bottle of wine anymore.” Alternative ‘bubbly’, like Prosecco, Cava or French Crémants have encroached on the Champagne market. “We sell three times more Crémant than we do champagne,” says Billy. “A very good Crémant and a good champagne, the difference isn’t enormous but the price differential is quite substantial.” Peter Dunne agrees. “Champagne do have problems ahead I think,” he says. “They extended their plantings but by extending the region of Champagne they’re producing more than they need. Prosecco has definitely intruded on their market. I think the top-end of the Bordeaux market is getting quite difficult now too.” The top end of the Burgundy and Beaujolais appellations have also become too expensive for the common wine drinker. Peter Roycroft says that in terms of the old stalwarts of the Irish trade - Chablis and Fleurie - the current prices of these wines means they sell less than they once did.
The Outlook France produces more wine than Australia and New Zealand. However, their domestic wine drinking has declined in recent years (in 1980, 51% of the French drank wine every day; in 2010 it was only 17%) so producers are looking to new markets and driving down prices for export, which is very good news for value-seeking drinkers. Peter Dunne is positive about the outlook for French wines and advises the trade to prepare itself for a return to French wines. “People are learning more about wine,” he says. “French wine requires a little bit more knowledge and people are being more selective when they drink wine. They’ve experimented with New World wines but they’re
“Fifteen years ago if you liked Sauvignon or Chardonnay that was all you needed to know but in France the varieties are pretty far reaching. The trade needs to have a good knowledge of their products to sell wines.” beginning to think ‘I’ve never had a Côtes du Rhône or a Bordeaux’.There’s more sophistication in drinking so it’s all to play for for France. To drink French wines you need to know a little bit more about wine. Fifteen years ago if you liked Sauvignon or Chardonnay that was all you needed to know but in France the varieties are pretty far reaching. The trade needs to have a good knowledge of their products to sell wines.”
New Entrants UBI FRANCE recently held a trade show at the Aviva Stadium with the aim of securing Irish distributors for new French wines in the Irish market. Twenty-two wine producers introduced over 250 wines to the Irish trade at the event, which was organised in association with Sud de France and the Languedoc-Roussillon region. At the time of going to press, several of the wine producers had secured Irish distributors. Les Domaines Auriol secured a new distributor for their Picpoul de Pinet. Also from the Languedoc-Roussillon region, the 155 hectare estate of Domaine de la Provenquière have had several interests from the trade. A Wine to Try works for 27 wineries across France and exhibited wines from the Loire Valley, the Rhône Valley and Languedoc-Roussillon at the show. Nomad Wine Importers Ltd have since ordered their Château Haut Blanville’s Peyrals and Bergerie des Charmes. The family-owned Château la Grave de Bertin in Bordeaux are looking forward to working with a new Irish distributor in the coming months. Château Guiraud in Bordeaux, already imported by Mitchells & Son and The Corkscrew Wine Merchants, have also had new interest in their Sauternes. The Rauzan wine cellars, who represent close to 300 wine producers in Bordeaux, had several interests from the trade, including The Connemara Wine Cellar, Boyne Valley and Cases Wine Warehouse.
“French wine requires a little bit more knowledge and people are being more selective when they drink wine. They’ve experimented with New World wines but they’re beginning to think ‘I’ve never had a Côtes du Rhône or a Bordeaux’. There’s more sophistication in drinking so it’s all to play for for France.” 29
