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• • composting in bear country page 3
• • native plants page 4
• • wildlife-friendly fences page 6
lawn& garden the
WATCH N E W S P A P E R S
• • salty hot tubs page 7
• • perennials/annuals page 8
• • summer roses page 9
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Rules for Composting in Bear Country By Elisabeth Gick
Compost, n, a mixture of various decaying organic substances, such as dead leaves, manure, etc. for fertilizing land (Random House College Dictionary) TELLURIDE – In the beginning of March, Yvette Henson from the Colorado State University extension office gave an introductory class on composting at the Wilkinson Library. The room was filled to capacity. From the discussion at the end of the presentation, it was clear that there were experienced – and quite innovative – composters in the audience. Henson started her presentation with a startling statistic: 75 percent of the stuff that is trucked to the landfill could be composted. We all know that landfills are running out of land to fill, so let’s do our part! I attended because I was hoping to find a solution to my own composting problem: a bear cub digging through yard waste and vegetable scraps while his big, fat, absolutely gorgeous mama watched from my entry deck. Part of me was in awe, but the other part was scared, very scared. I knew I would not want to meet mama bear when walking home at dusk.
BEAR AWARE – Hungry bears have a great sense of smell and are willing to do anything for an easy meal. Rule number one in high country composting: Fruit and vegetable scraps in your compost, unless you are willing to experiment with the six-part plastic-clamshell burial described in this article, are a surefire way to attract bears. (A wide-mouth mason jar should work, too.) (Photo by Patrick Nicklaus)
My compost heap was an open pile of carefully stacked nitrogen parts, namely leaves, deadheaded flowers, the occasional dead plant, vegetable peels and cuttings from the kitchen – usually green, moist, sloppy items – and carbon parts, such as broken down twigs and branches, dried up leaves, torn up newspaper and egg cartons (the dry, brown stuff). Sawdust or wood shavings would be good here, too, if you have them.
I had done my homework and followed the instructions in Rodale’s Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening to the letter, watering the pile slowly on hot and/or windy days, so it would always be moist, but not wet, “like a wrung-out sponge.” I turned it occasionally (which is backbreaking labor!) and it worked. At the end of the season, I was digging out soil nice enough to sleep in. So all was well until baby bear
smelled something delicious. High-country composting rule 1: Do not put any fruit or vegetable scraps in your compost pile (or, if you must, bury them deeply in the middle of the pile). That leads me to Telluride resident Chris Myers’ ingenious composting method. He digs a hole in the ground right next to his house, dumps his vegetarian kitchen scraps in, covers the hole up again and walks away.
The next time compostable stuff has accumulated in his under-thesink lidded plastic bin (those plastic clamshells for organic greens work great!) he digs another hole just next to the first one. Six inches or one-shovel-deep is enough, he says. When he has made his way down the length of the house, Myers starts again, from the beginning, finding see composting on page 11
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Deep Thoughts From a Native Plant Enthusiast By jen Mann
As gardeners, we are all looking for that extra something special to plant in our gardens. With so many ornamental varieties available today in nurseries, however, this can be both exciting and daunting all at the same time. There is much to be considered: bloom times, drought tolerance, height, color, placement, disease resistance, and, perhaps most importantly, whether we are considering a native or nonnative plant. What exactly is a native plant? According to Native Plant Specialist Randy Mandel, co-founder of Rocky Mountain Native Plants in Rifle, “the definition most used for ‘native’ is: A plant species which occurs naturally in a particular site as determined by the combination of living and non-living factors and was not introduced by human activities after the advent of European Colonists on the American Continent.” In other words, native plants existed here in specific communities before we brought them into the lab and morphed them into what we want them to be – plants
trail, stretching from east end of the valley to along Telluride’s Valley Floor. Places that focus on native plantings tend to be areas of reclamation or revegetation, or parks and other public places, and they tend to be planted exclusively with natives. Conversely, our private gardens tend towards ornamentals, with less focus on natives. Should we incorporate native plants into our ornamental gardens – or maybe even go so far as to plant natives exclusively or at least have specific areas in our gardens just for natives? Again, I turn to the experts for answers. Mandel states, “It’s important to incorporate the best attributes of both improved varieties and wild type populations, depending on layout and project context…” Mandel also sees great significance in the exclusive use of native plants in traditional garden design, for this “inclusion native coluMBine grows more sparsely, with fewer flowers. It can be found along the San Miguel enables these landscapes to act as genetic repositories, hence helpriver trail. (Courtesy photo) ing to perpetuate these ecotypes in a broader array of environwith bigger fruit, plants with areas in landscape design – such grasses and rushes abound, invit- ments.” persistent fruit, plants with pink as in the Telluride/Placerville ing native fauna and pollinators Landscape architect Linda rather than white blooms, etc. Down Valley Park, where native alike to the area. Another good see native on page 5 Native plants are used in many cottonwoods, chokecherries, iris, example is the San Miguel river
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contamination due to back siphoning when a sudden loss ofthpressure public water u rsday, ju n e 3in , 2 0 1the 0 awn& system occurs. Buildings nearlgarden the release of water can have a sudden drop in water considered a good reason to inte- it isand very possible and even re- the aesthetic value the we areend look- of pressure, liquid inourcontact with grate natives with non-natives. sponsibility to “pull the woods for- ing for? Their flowers are often garden hose or in atodrain get siphoned Regarding the a GMO debate, ward,” in Mandel’s words, bet- muchcan less conspicuous than their however, more research is need- ter return disturbed areas to their cultivar counterparts; they often upclaims and the main ed to substantiate any that contaminate native surroundings. bloom water only once. system. One solution
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non-native plants could provide a Can native plants be suc- to this is to plant natives “en detriment to native pollinators. cessfully incorporated into our And regarding cross-polli- ornamental gardens to provide see native on page 11 nation between natives and their closely related cultivar counterparts, apparently this can occur, in which case genes could be introduced into the native gene pool, but more research needs to be done on this subject. Cross-pollination and GMO pollen grains aside, I would like to ponder one last thing: Are native landscapes sought after? And if so, can we as gardeners and designers successfully mimic or recreate nature in a landscape? It sounds easy enough, but let’s really think about this. Native plants have evolved alongside many natural factors that have influenced their growth and reproduction habits for, well, close to forever, Mandel says, “because of inherent environmental variability, the majority of native species have inherent dormancy so that a portion of the seed bank is held back for the proper environmental conditions.” In other words, no DNA is left behind. And for this reason natives can be difficult to propagate and establish. However, I do think
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red feathers – This native plant will bloom from May until frost if it is deadheaded. (Courtesy photo)
native from page 4 Robinson offers us another perspective, saying that the cultural requirements of native plants “can vary as much or more than exotics. Many exotics available in the nurseries have been bred to be very adaptable and tough and easy to cultivate. Because of that,” native perennials “are also not nearly as varied or interesting, or useful as members of a native ecosystem” – and tend to be “pushed out” of ornamental gardens. These are just a few opinions amongst a plethora of others, including scientific research (or the lack thereof) to support these ongoing debates. So, while we’re at it, let’s add to the mix another thought worth pondering: Could
all of these cultivars being produced for today’s ornamental gardens have any adverse effects on native pollinators via genetically modified (GMO) pollen grains? Can native pollinators tell the difference between a native and a non-native plant? And, if so, could this be a valid reason to not integrate natives with nonnatives in our gardens? Most pollinators visit flowers based on compatible morphology (the form and structure of, in this case, a plant) and ample nourishment. If the plant does not meet these criteria the pollinators will simply move on to the next plant. Also, as natives tend to sequence their flowering to a one-time bloom period, some ornamentals could fill those gaps with their repetitive flowering cycles. This could be
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How to Build Wildlife-Friendly Fences Free DOW Publication Available Every year, thousands of big game animals and birds die of injuries caused by fences. It is possible to build effective fences that meet the needs of landowners and that minimize harm to wildlife, however. Fencing with Wildlife in Mind, a new Department of Wildlife publication, explains how to build a variety of wildlife-friendly fences. It also includes instructions on how to construct enclosures around areas to exclude wildlife. When properly built, fences can allow wildlife to move through an area, both in their normal daily movements and in seasonal migration patterns. The information offered by the publication is based on long-term research and observations by wildlife officers and biologists. In addition, private landowners provided suggestions and designs that they employ on their properties. “Fences are major investments for landowners,” said Pat Tucker, coordinator of the Habitat Partnership Program for the DOW. “This publication isn’t the final word on fencing but it does show real life examples
Bye-Bye, BamBi – A wildlife fence like this one can protect your hard-earned summer crops. (Courtesy photo)
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Columbine: The Pennywise Perennial Once you’ve seen columbines blooming in the high country, you won’t forget them. The Columbine, the Colorado State flower, emblematizes our trademark clear blue skies and crisp mountain breezes. Columbines are not only hardy to most parts of Colorado – they are readily available at local garden centers. Also known as “Granny’s Bonnet,” the flower’s main bloom period is MayJuly. Deadheading encourages reblooming. The flowers are up to three inches across, with nectar-bearing spurs, five petals, five sepals, and one or two colors. They attract hummingbirds, butterflies and bees. There are various flower forms available in colors that range from pure white to almost black, on plants sized anywhere from eight diminutive inches to a grand four feet tall. Lacy, light-green to blue-green foliage and a soft fern-like texture gives the mounding plants a fresh woodland glen quality. Columbines can grow in full sun, but do best in part shade,
yellow daisy osteosPurmum. (Courtesy photo)
Great Early-in-theSeason Annuals season while temperatures are still cool. “Osteos,” or African Sun Daisies as they’re commonly called, produce many astoundingly colorful daisy flowers. You’ve probably by jacki hein, ccnP seen them – white, pink, lavender, deep purple, reddish, and the very Osteospermum or Diascia. Sounds like a foreign lan- popular yellows or oranges. They often have a bluish center and guage! Both of these flowers come make great combinations with lavfrom another country – South Af- ender or purple verbenas in pots. rica – but are still, surprisingly, see annuals on page 9 just the thing to plant early in the
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aquilegia caerulea ‘Colorado Blue Columbine’. Photo credit: see columbine on page 10 Keith Williamson, Little Valley Wholesale Nursery
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The Summer Roses Bring Autumn Rose Hips Easy-Care Redleaf Rose Provides YearRound Visuals
diascia darla – In light pink, it resembles apple blossoms. (Courtesy photo)
annuals from page 8 Diascias are members of the snapdragon family, but are more of a low-growing, mounding or cascading plant. With the common name “Twinspur,” they have two small petals in their flowers that project like spurs. Their flower colors include white, pastels, bright oranges and reds to lavender and purple, and are often so prolific that the plant itself can no longer be seen. Osteos and Diascias both do best in sunny locations and excel in containers. While Osteos are upright, reaching 12-18” in height, Diascias are low (6-12”) and often trailing which makes
them a great “spiller” to cascade over edges. Neither plant is bothered much by either insects or disease. Regular fertilizer helps keep plants looking their best, but if they become scraggly by late season, they’ll rebound beautifully if cut back. Either of these plants produce a good show of flowers early in the season, while temperatures are cool, and will continue to bloom into the fall after light frosts take out many of our other annuals. Plant them together in a pot, adding some vinca and maybe a spike. Voila! You have color and cold tolerance all at once! For more info go to www. gardencentersofcolorado.org
Redleaf Rose (Rosa glauca, R. rubrifolia) Medium-sized to large shrub Height: 6 to 8 ft. Width: 4 to 6 ft. Blooms: May to June Sun: Full sun to part shade Soil Moisture: Moderate to dry conditions; xeric Hardiness: USDA zones 3-9 (up to 9000’) red leaf rosa, in spring and Culture: Clay, sandy soil or loam summer. (Courtesy photo) summer roses – autumn hips
If you are looking for an outstanding xeric shrub that will provide year-round interest and require very little effort, look no further. Redleaf Rose (Rosa glauca) is an exceptionally hardy blooming shrub that grows just about anywhere and provides many outstanding ornamental features. The single petal blossoms
open pastel pink in May to June and fade to white as the season progresses. The deep purple foliage throughout the growing season provides an excellent contrast to the silvers and greens that dominate our landscapes and make this shrub standout. Unlike its more glamorous rose cousins, the stunning visual see roses on page 10
autumnal rosa Glauca hips – This summer rose with single pink flowers, purple-gray foliage features big hips in autumn; it originated in the Pyrenees mountains in Central France. (Courtesy photo)
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needing moist, well-drained soil, moderately fertile, that’s cooled by mulch. Water regularly until established; they are not xeric, but rather must be watered during drought, and fed with scattered granular organic fertilizer in spring. Use in borders, mass plantings, wildflower meadows, woodland gardens, and as a cut flower. Unfortunately, they are short-lived perennials, and may also go dormant in summer heat, so be prepared to replace cultivars every three to four years as they lose vigor, or allow reseeding. Unless you have planted only one species, be prepared for the seedlings to bloom in unexpected colors. Plants are avail-
Unless you have planted only one species, be prepared for the seedlings to bloom in unexpected colors. able in pots sizes ranging from 2.5 to six inches in diameter, or, directly sow seed in the fall for spring germination. Disease and insect problems include powdery mildew and leaf miners that require the removal and destruction of infected foliage (do not compost). Wash or pick off sawfly larvae and aphids
or find an organic pesticide at your local garden center. Check the soil or watering habits; the roots must be kept healthy. Find a local independent retail location at www.coloradonga.org, click on ‘find a member,’ and search any section.
roses from page 8
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display offered by Rosa glauca doesn’t end with summer. Gorgeous red-orange hips remain on the bushes through fall and winter, framed by the graceful reddishgreen canes. This very hardy, and drought resistant shrub is native to the mountains of southern Europe and will thrive in a wide range of areas along the Colorado Front Range and mountain elevations. The beautiful foliage of Redleaf Rose is especially nice when planted as an individual specimen in a shrub border or when planted in mass as a background. This dense, spreading shrub is an excellent choice for every xeriscape landscape.
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composting
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only lovely, crumbly dirt. Myers is certain that the residual heat from the structure and the rainwater/snowmelt dripping down from the roof help speed the process. Obviously, he isn’t overly concerned about getting the carbon/nitrogen mix just right. Tumbler-type composters would probably help with the bear problem as well – although, as Henson pointed out, everything that goes into the barrel has to be fairly small in size; turning the tumbler does not really mix up the stuff inside; more compost cannot be added while one batch is brewing (anywhere from
native from page 5 masse” for a better show. Also, some ornamental shrub varieties offer variegated or deep burgundy foliage whereas the foliage of natives has simple green variations, and many ornamental shrubs and vines have been bred to produce larger fruits more suitable for making pies and jams. It can be difficult for natives to compete with all of these enticing characteristics that ornamentals can offer – and many nurserygrown native plants, particularly perennials, are not easy to come by. One cannot simply drive to their local nursery and purchase some Mimulus lewisii (Lewis Monkeyflower), or Geranium viscosissimum (Sticky Purple Geranium), or even Fragaria vesca (Woodland Strawberry). There are many natives available in our local nurseries, and staffers who can explain the differences between the native Gaillardia aristata and its cultivar, Oranges and Lemons, as well as the native Lonicera involucrata and its cultivar Lonicera, Arnold’s
One composter digs a hole in the ground right next to his house, dumps his vegetarian kitchen scraps in, covers the hole up again and walks away. as “compost.” Another reason for making your own. Good luck!
Red, to name a few. Additionally, the Colorado State University extension has a wealth of information on native plants – and even a Native Plant Master program (www.extension. colostate.edu/SanMiguel/hortnativeplantmaster.htm). In the right setting, there is plenty of room in gardening for ornamentals and natives to comingle. And, science aside, who doesn’t love all the colors of the yarrows and the blanket flowers so readily available to us? The big bodacious bionic lupines (compared to the modest blooms of the native lupine) can be hard to resist. We even have over ten or more varieties of columbine to choose from! Planting natives in our gardens can not only provide that extra something special, allow us the opportunity to learn more about our local ecosystem – and reaffirms our roles as stewards of this land. “Gardens are places for people to connect with an outdoor environment,” Robinson says. “The designed garden environment becomes a great place
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several weeks to several months); and turning the tumbler is really hard work. Maybe we are back to the 3x3foot wood-slatted box… And here is another interesting tidbit from the class, for anyone buying compost for flower or vegetable beds: In Colorado, anything can be sold
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• • composting in bear country page 3
• • native plants page 4
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Rules for Composting in Bear Country By Elisabeth Gick
Compost, n, a mixture of various decaying organic substances, such as dead leaves, manure, etc. for fertilizing land (Random House College Dictionary) TELLURIDE – In the beginning of March, Yvette Henson from the Colorado State University extension office gave an introductory class on composting at the Wilkinson Library. The room was filled to capacity. From the discussion at the end of the presentation, it was clear that there were experienced – and quite innovative – composters in the audience. Henson started her presentation with a startling statistic: 75 percent of the stuff that is trucked to the landfill could be composted. We all know that landfills are running out of land to fill, so let’s do our part! I attended because I was hoping to find a solution to my own composting problem: a bear cub digging through yard waste and vegetable scraps while his big, fat, absolutely gorgeous mama watched from my entry deck. Part of me was in awe, but the other part was scared, very scared. I knew I would not want to meet mama bear when walking home at dusk.
BEAR AWARE – Hungry bears have a great sense of smell and are willing to do anything for an easy meal. Rule number one in high country composting: Fruit and vegetable scraps in your compost, unless you are willing to experiment with the six-part plastic-clamshell burial described in this article, are a surefire way to attract bears. (A wide-mouth mason jar should work, too.) (Photo by Patrick Nicklaus)
My compost heap was an open pile of carefully stacked nitrogen parts, namely leaves, deadheaded flowers, the occasional dead plant, vegetable peels and cuttings from the kitchen – usually green, moist, sloppy items – and carbon parts, such as broken down twigs and branches, dried up leaves, torn up newspaper and egg cartons (the dry, brown stuff). Sawdust or wood shavings would be good here, too, if you have them.
I had done my homework and followed the instructions in Rodale’s Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening to the letter, watering the pile slowly on hot and/or windy days, so it would always be moist, but not wet, “like a wrung-out sponge.” I turned it occasionally (which is backbreaking labor!) and it worked. At the end of the season, I was digging out soil nice enough to sleep in. So all was well until baby bear
smelled something delicious. High-country composting rule 1: Do not put any fruit or vegetable scraps in your compost pile (or, if you must, bury them deeply in the middle of the pile). That leads me to Telluride resident Chris Myers’ ingenious composting method. He digs a hole in the ground right next to his house, dumps his vegetarian kitchen scraps in, covers the hole up again and walks away.
The next time compostable stuff has accumulated in his under-thesink lidded plastic bin (those plastic clamshells for organic greens work great!) he digs another hole just next to the first one. Six inches or one-shovel-deep is enough, he says. When he has made his way down the length of the house, Myers starts again, from the beginning, finding see composting on page 11
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Deep Thoughts From a Native Plant Enthusiast By jen Mann
As gardeners, we are all looking for that extra something special to plant in our gardens. With so many ornamental varieties available today in nurseries, however, this can be both exciting and daunting all at the same time. There is much to be considered: bloom times, drought tolerance, height, color, placement, disease resistance, and, perhaps most importantly, whether we are considering a native or nonnative plant. What exactly is a native plant? According to Native Plant Specialist Randy Mandel, co-founder of Rocky Mountain Native Plants in Rifle, “the definition most used for ‘native’ is: A plant species which occurs naturally in a particular site as determined by the combination of living and non-living factors and was not introduced by human activities after the advent of European Colonists on the American Continent.” In other words, native plants existed here in specific communities before we brought them into the lab and morphed them into what we want them to be – plants
trail, stretching from east end of the valley to along Telluride’s Valley Floor. Places that focus on native plantings tend to be areas of reclamation or revegetation, or parks and other public places, and they tend to be planted exclusively with natives. Conversely, our private gardens tend towards ornamentals, with less focus on natives. Should we incorporate native plants into our ornamental gardens – or maybe even go so far as to plant natives exclusively or at least have specific areas in our gardens just for natives? Again, I turn to the experts for answers. Mandel states, “It’s important to incorporate the best attributes of both improved varieties and wild type populations, depending on layout and project context…” Mandel also sees great significance in the exclusive use of native plants in traditional garden design, for this “inclusion native coluMBine grows more sparsely, with fewer flowers. It can be found along the San Miguel enables these landscapes to act as genetic repositories, hence helpriver trail. (Courtesy photo) ing to perpetuate these ecotypes in a broader array of environwith bigger fruit, plants with areas in landscape design – such grasses and rushes abound, invit- ments.” persistent fruit, plants with pink as in the Telluride/Placerville ing native fauna and pollinators Landscape architect Linda rather than white blooms, etc. Down Valley Park, where native alike to the area. Another good see native on page 5 Native plants are used in many cottonwoods, chokecherries, iris, example is the San Miguel river
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contamination due to back siphoning when a sudden loss ofthpressure public water u rsday, ju n e 3in , 2 0 1the 0 awn& system occurs. Buildings nearlgarden the release of water can have a sudden drop in water considered a good reason to inte- it isand very possible and even re- the aesthetic value the we areend look- of pressure, liquid inourcontact with grate natives with non-natives. sponsibility to “pull the woods for- ing for? Their flowers are often garden hose or in atodrain get siphoned Regarding the a GMO debate, ward,” in Mandel’s words, bet- muchcan less conspicuous than their however, more research is need- ter return disturbed areas to their cultivar counterparts; they often upclaims and the main ed to substantiate any that contaminate native surroundings. bloom water only once. system. One solution
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non-native plants could provide a Can native plants be suc- to this is to plant natives “en detriment to native pollinators. cessfully incorporated into our And regarding cross-polli- ornamental gardens to provide see native on page 11 nation between natives and their closely related cultivar counterparts, apparently this can occur, in which case genes could be introduced into the native gene pool, but more research needs to be done on this subject. Cross-pollination and GMO pollen grains aside, I would like to ponder one last thing: Are native landscapes sought after? And if so, can we as gardeners and designers successfully mimic or recreate nature in a landscape? It sounds easy enough, but let’s really think about this. Native plants have evolved alongside many natural factors that have influenced their growth and reproduction habits for, well, close to forever, Mandel says, “because of inherent environmental variability, the majority of native species have inherent dormancy so that a portion of the seed bank is held back for the proper environmental conditions.” In other words, no DNA is left behind. And for this reason natives can be difficult to propagate and establish. However, I do think
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red feathers – This native plant will bloom from May until frost if it is deadheaded. (Courtesy photo)
native from page 4 Robinson offers us another perspective, saying that the cultural requirements of native plants “can vary as much or more than exotics. Many exotics available in the nurseries have been bred to be very adaptable and tough and easy to cultivate. Because of that,” native perennials “are also not nearly as varied or interesting, or useful as members of a native ecosystem” – and tend to be “pushed out” of ornamental gardens. These are just a few opinions amongst a plethora of others, including scientific research (or the lack thereof) to support these ongoing debates. So, while we’re at it, let’s add to the mix another thought worth pondering: Could
all of these cultivars being produced for today’s ornamental gardens have any adverse effects on native pollinators via genetically modified (GMO) pollen grains? Can native pollinators tell the difference between a native and a non-native plant? And, if so, could this be a valid reason to not integrate natives with nonnatives in our gardens? Most pollinators visit flowers based on compatible morphology (the form and structure of, in this case, a plant) and ample nourishment. If the plant does not meet these criteria the pollinators will simply move on to the next plant. Also, as natives tend to sequence their flowering to a one-time bloom period, some ornamentals could fill those gaps with their repetitive flowering cycles. This could be
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How to Build Wildlife-Friendly Fences Free DOW Publication Available Every year, thousands of big game animals and birds die of injuries caused by fences. It is possible to build effective fences that meet the needs of landowners and that minimize harm to wildlife, however. Fencing with Wildlife in Mind, a new Department of Wildlife publication, explains how to build a variety of wildlife-friendly fences. It also includes instructions on how to construct enclosures around areas to exclude wildlife. When properly built, fences can allow wildlife to move through an area, both in their normal daily movements and in seasonal migration patterns. The information offered by the publication is based on long-term research and observations by wildlife officers and biologists. In addition, private landowners provided suggestions and designs that they employ on their properties. “Fences are major investments for landowners,” said Pat Tucker, coordinator of the Habitat Partnership Program for the DOW. “This publication isn’t the final word on fencing but it does show real life examples
Bye-Bye, BamBi – A wildlife fence like this one can protect your hard-earned summer crops. (Courtesy photo)
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Columbine: The Pennywise Perennial Once you’ve seen columbines blooming in the high country, you won’t forget them. The Columbine, the Colorado State flower, emblematizes our trademark clear blue skies and crisp mountain breezes. Columbines are not only hardy to most parts of Colorado – they are readily available at local garden centers. Also known as “Granny’s Bonnet,” the flower’s main bloom period is MayJuly. Deadheading encourages reblooming. The flowers are up to three inches across, with nectar-bearing spurs, five petals, five sepals, and one or two colors. They attract hummingbirds, butterflies and bees. There are various flower forms available in colors that range from pure white to almost black, on plants sized anywhere from eight diminutive inches to a grand four feet tall. Lacy, light-green to blue-green foliage and a soft fern-like texture gives the mounding plants a fresh woodland glen quality. Columbines can grow in full sun, but do best in part shade,
yellow daisy osteosPurmum. (Courtesy photo)
Great Early-in-theSeason Annuals season while temperatures are still cool. “Osteos,” or African Sun Daisies as they’re commonly called, produce many astoundingly colorful daisy flowers. You’ve probably by jacki hein, ccnP seen them – white, pink, lavender, deep purple, reddish, and the very Osteospermum or Diascia. Sounds like a foreign lan- popular yellows or oranges. They often have a bluish center and guage! Both of these flowers come make great combinations with lavfrom another country – South Af- ender or purple verbenas in pots. rica – but are still, surprisingly, see annuals on page 9 just the thing to plant early in the
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aquilegia caerulea ‘Colorado Blue Columbine’. Photo credit: see columbine on page 10 Keith Williamson, Little Valley Wholesale Nursery
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The Summer Roses Bring Autumn Rose Hips Easy-Care Redleaf Rose Provides YearRound Visuals
diascia darla – In light pink, it resembles apple blossoms. (Courtesy photo)
annuals from page 8 Diascias are members of the snapdragon family, but are more of a low-growing, mounding or cascading plant. With the common name “Twinspur,” they have two small petals in their flowers that project like spurs. Their flower colors include white, pastels, bright oranges and reds to lavender and purple, and are often so prolific that the plant itself can no longer be seen. Osteos and Diascias both do best in sunny locations and excel in containers. While Osteos are upright, reaching 12-18” in height, Diascias are low (6-12”) and often trailing which makes
them a great “spiller” to cascade over edges. Neither plant is bothered much by either insects or disease. Regular fertilizer helps keep plants looking their best, but if they become scraggly by late season, they’ll rebound beautifully if cut back. Either of these plants produce a good show of flowers early in the season, while temperatures are cool, and will continue to bloom into the fall after light frosts take out many of our other annuals. Plant them together in a pot, adding some vinca and maybe a spike. Voila! You have color and cold tolerance all at once! For more info go to www. gardencentersofcolorado.org
Redleaf Rose (Rosa glauca, R. rubrifolia) Medium-sized to large shrub Height: 6 to 8 ft. Width: 4 to 6 ft. Blooms: May to June Sun: Full sun to part shade Soil Moisture: Moderate to dry conditions; xeric Hardiness: USDA zones 3-9 (up to 9000’) red leaf rosa, in spring and Culture: Clay, sandy soil or loam summer. (Courtesy photo) summer roses – autumn hips
If you are looking for an outstanding xeric shrub that will provide year-round interest and require very little effort, look no further. Redleaf Rose (Rosa glauca) is an exceptionally hardy blooming shrub that grows just about anywhere and provides many outstanding ornamental features. The single petal blossoms
open pastel pink in May to June and fade to white as the season progresses. The deep purple foliage throughout the growing season provides an excellent contrast to the silvers and greens that dominate our landscapes and make this shrub standout. Unlike its more glamorous rose cousins, the stunning visual see roses on page 10
autumnal rosa Glauca hips – This summer rose with single pink flowers, purple-gray foliage features big hips in autumn; it originated in the Pyrenees mountains in Central France. (Courtesy photo)
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lawn& garden
thursday, j une 3, 2010
th e watch
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needing moist, well-drained soil, moderately fertile, that’s cooled by mulch. Water regularly until established; they are not xeric, but rather must be watered during drought, and fed with scattered granular organic fertilizer in spring. Use in borders, mass plantings, wildflower meadows, woodland gardens, and as a cut flower. Unfortunately, they are short-lived perennials, and may also go dormant in summer heat, so be prepared to replace cultivars every three to four years as they lose vigor, or allow reseeding. Unless you have planted only one species, be prepared for the seedlings to bloom in unexpected colors. Plants are avail-
Unless you have planted only one species, be prepared for the seedlings to bloom in unexpected colors. able in pots sizes ranging from 2.5 to six inches in diameter, or, directly sow seed in the fall for spring germination. Disease and insect problems include powdery mildew and leaf miners that require the removal and destruction of infected foliage (do not compost). Wash or pick off sawfly larvae and aphids
or find an organic pesticide at your local garden center. Check the soil or watering habits; the roots must be kept healthy. Find a local independent retail location at www.coloradonga.org, click on ‘find a member,’ and search any section.
roses from page 8
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display offered by Rosa glauca doesn’t end with summer. Gorgeous red-orange hips remain on the bushes through fall and winter, framed by the graceful reddishgreen canes. This very hardy, and drought resistant shrub is native to the mountains of southern Europe and will thrive in a wide range of areas along the Colorado Front Range and mountain elevations. The beautiful foliage of Redleaf Rose is especially nice when planted as an individual specimen in a shrub border or when planted in mass as a background. This dense, spreading shrub is an excellent choice for every xeriscape landscape.
t h e wa tch
t h u rsday, ju n e 3 , 2 0 1 0
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composting
from page 3
only lovely, crumbly dirt. Myers is certain that the residual heat from the structure and the rainwater/snowmelt dripping down from the roof help speed the process. Obviously, he isn’t overly concerned about getting the carbon/nitrogen mix just right. Tumbler-type composters would probably help with the bear problem as well – although, as Henson pointed out, everything that goes into the barrel has to be fairly small in size; turning the tumbler does not really mix up the stuff inside; more compost cannot be added while one batch is brewing (anywhere from
native from page 5 masse” for a better show. Also, some ornamental shrub varieties offer variegated or deep burgundy foliage whereas the foliage of natives has simple green variations, and many ornamental shrubs and vines have been bred to produce larger fruits more suitable for making pies and jams. It can be difficult for natives to compete with all of these enticing characteristics that ornamentals can offer – and many nurserygrown native plants, particularly perennials, are not easy to come by. One cannot simply drive to their local nursery and purchase some Mimulus lewisii (Lewis Monkeyflower), or Geranium viscosissimum (Sticky Purple Geranium), or even Fragaria vesca (Woodland Strawberry). There are many natives available in our local nurseries, and staffers who can explain the differences between the native Gaillardia aristata and its cultivar, Oranges and Lemons, as well as the native Lonicera involucrata and its cultivar Lonicera, Arnold’s
One composter digs a hole in the ground right next to his house, dumps his vegetarian kitchen scraps in, covers the hole up again and walks away. as “compost.” Another reason for making your own. Good luck!
Red, to name a few. Additionally, the Colorado State University extension has a wealth of information on native plants – and even a Native Plant Master program (www.extension. colostate.edu/SanMiguel/hortnativeplantmaster.htm). In the right setting, there is plenty of room in gardening for ornamentals and natives to comingle. And, science aside, who doesn’t love all the colors of the yarrows and the blanket flowers so readily available to us? The big bodacious bionic lupines (compared to the modest blooms of the native lupine) can be hard to resist. We even have over ten or more varieties of columbine to choose from! Planting natives in our gardens can not only provide that extra something special, allow us the opportunity to learn more about our local ecosystem – and reaffirms our roles as stewards of this land. “Gardens are places for people to connect with an outdoor environment,” Robinson says. “The designed garden environment becomes a great place
for people to learn to appreciate the local flora.”
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several weeks to several months); and turning the tumbler is really hard work. Maybe we are back to the 3x3foot wood-slatted box… And here is another interesting tidbit from the class, for anyone buying compost for flower or vegetable beds: In Colorado, anything can be sold
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Jen Mann, owner of Grassroots Landscape Design, LLC, www.telluridelandscapedesign.com, has been a native plant enthusiast since her studies in botany began in 1993. Randy Mandel, www.rmnativeplants.com, is co-founder of Rocky Mountain Native Plants and Native Plant Specialist. Landscape architect Linda Robinson can be reached at www.lindarobinsonstudio.com.
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