All fashion athletic wear, Splits59.
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Play to Your Strength
Whether you’ve been working out or were born with an athlete’s build, we’ve got style ideas that flatter a muscular figure. Five good sports lead the way. PHOTOGRAPHS BY SERGIO KURHAJEC
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Evening Standing 6 2 since age 13, former Division I college volleyball player Jessica Vertullo Maher, 36, has learned to appreciate her tall, broadshouldered physique. But now that she’s a real estate agent with formal work events to attend, she finds herself playing it safe with evening wear: “I usually limit myself to basic black cocktail dresses,” Maher says. This bright, slinky silk dress (Issa, $714) is a flattering new option. The halter neckline draws attention up to Maher’s face rather than out toward her shoulders; the sleek fit and solid color keep the look from feeling fussy. Earrings, Kendra Scott. Ring, David Yurman. Shoes, René Caovilla.
“I thought that at my height, color would be overwhelming. It isn’t.”
Weekends When 5 4 Zakiya Proctor (far left) played college basketball, her taller teammates assumed she had no shopping issues. “But I’ve never been able to find clothes that are small enough in the waist and big enough everywhere else,” says Proctor, 31, now studying to be a physician’s assistant. Her blouse (The Shirt by Rochelle Behrens, $88) tackles this problem with hidden buttons and stretch fabric. Fitted jeans (James Jeans, $123) also conform to her shape. Necklace, Roxanne Assoulin for Lee Angel. Ring, Noir Jewelry. Belt, Gap. Shoes, Talbots. Like Proctor, executive search consultant Samantha Carey, 38 (near left), struggles to find clothes that work with her upper body. “I used to buy jackets and have them taken in four sizes at the midsection,” Carey says of her days as a competitive swimmer. This silk jersey dress (Aidan Mattox, $255) skims Carey’s shoulders while emphasizing her waist. “I’ve always felt unsure about what to wear outside the office or gym,” says Carey. “This is a perfect solution.” Earrings, Irene Neuwirth. Bangles, BaubleBar. Shoes, Jimmy Choo.
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Making the Cut
A good tailor is a super-toned woman’s best friend. O’s creative director, Adam Glassman, on small alterations that have a big impact:
Office Casual Delissa Reynolds-Lyssy, 49, follows a weekly yoga and running routine. But what really keeps her fit is her job: She owns a bar, and “carrying around cases of beer is a serious workout!” Reynolds-Lyssy needs a wardrobe that can go from the office, where she handles administrative work, straight to serving patrons at night. These wide-leg pants (Adam, $225) flatter her hips and thighs. The sheer blouse (Gap, $50), with its delicate fabric and print, softens Reynolds-Lyssy’s sculpted top half. Earrings, Me & Ro. Bracelets, Kaur Collection, Kenneth Jay Lane, Gorjana. Shoes, Fratelli Rossetti.
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At the shoulders: Remove padding from blazers and jackets. If a top has a center seam down the back, it can be let out for a more generous fit. In the arms: You may have to buy a size (or two) up to accommodate shoulders, but don’t leave sleeves hanging; the more fitted they are, the more tailored your whole look will be. At the waist: Maximize curves by taking in extra fabric around the stomach. In the thighs: Hem skirts and dresses so they hover around the knee. A-line styles and pencil skirts made of stretchy fabric skim over prominent quads.
“I love that this outfit has a bit of a vintage feel— and fits my quads!”
Suited Up “Downhill racers tend to be the heftiest skiers,” says Rachel Roosevelt, 27, a member of the U.S. Ski Team from 2000 to 2004 who has the sturdy, straightwaisted body to show for it. Roosevelt, now a macroeconomic researcher, still feels like an amateur when it comes to dressing for the corporate world. Because of her muscular legs, she says, “tight skirts tend to bunch on me.” Problem solved: Choose one with some stretch (Michael Michael Kors, $100). The high-contrast stripes carve out Roosevelt’s figure, creating an instant hourglass. The waistaccentuating peplum and rounded shoulders of the jacket (L.K.Bennett, $545) exaggerate existing curves. Earrings, Noir Jewelry. Belt, Kenneth Cole New York. Shoes, Aldo. For details see Shop Guide.
Fashion editor: JoJo Cohen. Hair: Liam Dunn at ba-reps.com for Redken. Makeup: Lea Siegel at Ford Artists for Smashbox. Prop stylist: Steven Nassimos. Manicure: Roseann Singleton for Chanel at Art Department. Medicine balls: Courtesy of Yale Burge Antiques, New York. Reported and written by Jessica Silvester.
Hard Bodies, Easy Styles
Adam Glassman’s shopping list for flattering a strong silhouette: Subtle patterns. Choose smallscale, intricate prints (not just florals but polka dots, stripes, and geometric motifs). Delicate fabrics. Stick to materials that move, like silk, chiffon, washed cotton, and jersey. Cinching details. Tie-waisted tops and dresses let you adjust pieces to fit. Add a belt to jackets or dresses to define their shape. Open necklines. V-necks and scoopnecks counter wide shoulders and visually elongate the torso. Exposed shoulders. Look for contoured straps, which soften a broad build. Thanks to their narrowing cut, halters are also appealing. Avoid cap sleeves and sheaths. Wide pants. Boot and trouser cuts balance thighs. Skinny and cuffed styles have the opposite effect, making you look shorter and wider.