McGinnis Peak, East Face, Hayes Range. âCutthroat Couloirâ forms ...
M cG innis P eak, E ast Face, H ayes R ange. “C utthroat C ouloir” form s the right co m er o f the east face o f M cG innis Peak with the southeast ridge on its left side. O ur ascent o f the peak by Cutthroat C ouloir m ay be the m ost difficult clim b
yet done in the H ayes R ange. C huck C om stock and I started up the couloir on M arch 23. The couloir is 3000 feet high. The angle at the top approaches 75° to 80°. W e had three bivouacs on the ascent, the first on an arête in the couloir, the second in a bergschrund at the notch on the classic B rady route after we got onto the east or northeast ridge and the third on the sum m it, w hich we reached on M arch 26. W e m ade the first descent o f the form idable southeast ridge. W hen a cornice broke under C om stock, to arrest his fall I jum p ed off the other side o f the ridge. He hurt his hand and so we descended the couloir into which he had fallen. W e m ade eleven rappels with a cram ped snow -cave bivouac halfw ay dow n the face that the couloir avalanched into. R o m a n D ia l
yet done in the H ayes R ange. C huck C om stock and I started up the couloir on M arch 23. The couloir is 3000 feet high. The angle at the top approaches 75° to 80°. W e had three bivouacs on the ascent, the first on an arête in the couloir, the second in a bergschrund at the notch on the classic B rady route after we got onto the east or northeast ridge and the third on the sum m it, w hich we reached on M arch 26. W e m ade the first descent o f the form idable southeast ridge. W hen a cornice broke under C om stock, to arrest his fall I jum p ed off the other side o f the ridge. He hurt his hand and so we descended the couloir into which he had fallen. W e m ade eleven rappels with a cram ped snow -cave bivouac halfw ay dow n the face that the couloir avalanched into. R o m a n D ia l
