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head block haircuts //medium one length bob by Stacey Broughton Stacey Broughton’s head block tutorial demonstrates the disciplines of control needed to cut hair to one length. This is one of the first cuts a student would tackle and master. It is excellent grounding for every level, be it a new student or a salon educator.
//Technical Skills: Blow Drying • Blunt Cutting • Body Position • Club Cutting • Comb Techniques • Finger Position • Freehand Cutting • Scissor Control • Sectioning • Square Lines • Tension
online hairdressing training & education from the world’s best hairdressers © My Hairdressers Ltd
head block haircuts
1
//medium one length bob:
step by step
step 1 With the sectioning, first put in a side parting.
step 2 Now, put equal sectioning on the opposite side. This way it will have an equal position all the way around the head. Note: This section mimics how it would look on a real erson.
step 3 The sectioning pattern we are using is a centre section down the back.
step 4 We take sections across the back area of the head in an almost horizontal position because the cut line will be here, parallel to the horizontal section on the head and reflects the outside shape. Note: It is good practice to use sections that reflect the outside shape.
online hairdressing training & education from the world’s best hairdressers © My Hairdressers Ltd
head block haircuts
2
//medium one length bob:
step by step
step 5 Keep the hair wet and use your scissors to lift the hair into the comb. This creates more tension to keep the hair smooth. Then, cut your line below the comb.
step 6 Finally refine the line through your fingers whilst checking the balance and shape.
step 7 Continue this process with parallel sections working up the head towards the to the top of the ear.
step 8 Points to watch: 1) Each section needs to have an even amount of hair distributed throughout. This is called a clean section.
online hairdressing training & education from the world’s best hairdressers © My Hairdressers Ltd
head block haircuts
3
//medium one length bob:
step by step
step 9 Points to watch: 2) Ensure the sections are accurately parallel, mirroring your outline shape.
step 10 Points to watch: 3) Ensure the hair has even dampness which will produce even tension, thus aiding precision.
step 11 Points to watch: 4) Check you maintain correct body position in relation to the block position. Notice that Stacey's eye line is at the same level as his outline.
step 12 Points to watch: 5) Ensure the hair falls naturally.
online hairdressing training & education from the world’s best hairdressers © My Hairdressers Ltd
head block haircuts
4
//medium one length bob:
step by step
step 13 Continue this process from the back into the front with parallel sections, cutting through the comb and refining with your fingers.
step 14 Check the balance by placing equal tension on the hair. Bring the hair towards the centre and use the comb to check levels.
step 15 The sectioning as it runs from the back to the front mirrors the outline shape.
step 16 Points to watch over the ear areas: 1) Ensure your outline guide has sufficient weight and be mindful of hairline density around the ear. 2) Ensure the tension over the ear allows for the ear protrusion. 3) Again, ensure the hair falls naturally.watch.
online hairdressing training & education from the world’s best hairdressers © My Hairdressers Ltd
head block haircuts
5
//medium one length bob:
step by step
step 17 Take curved sections from the front to the back, embracing much of the hair in the front and enabling you to keep a clean line on the outside. Note: If working horizontal sections through the top, you will find that you are left with graduation. Working with curved sections help eliminate unwanted graduation.
step 18 When working on a block you must hold the hair back and use less tension to get a true angle. Once the hair is blow-dried, check the angle because it will naturally fall forwards.
step 19 We deal with head blocks as if it were a natural head of hair. This way when you come to do the real thing you will be doing the correct actions. This section is left until the hair is blowdried and cut in free hand to allow for the jump in the crown.
step 20 After blow-drying the root area you will have even root lift and an even line. You will see now the crown section area that was left out, dropping down and sitting over the rest of the hair in its natural fall. Remove the bulk of the hair and freehand cut the remaining overhang by lightly pointing the hair away.
online hairdressing training & education from the world’s best hairdressers © My Hairdressers Ltd
head block haircuts
6
//medium one length bob:
step by step
finish This is how to cut a one length bob on a block. You have seen how to control the hair and make it sit perfectly in one line. It is a great exercise and a great discipline.
online hairdressing training & education from the world’s best hairdressers © My Hairdressers Ltd
head block haircuts
a
//medium one length bob:
appendix
headsheet diagram a For the first section put in a side parting and then equal sectioning on the opposite side. This way it will have the same balance and position all the way around the head. This is known as a horseshoe section.
online hairdressing training & education from the world’s best hairdressers © My Hairdressers Ltd
head block haircuts
b
//medium one length bob:
appendix
headsheet diagram b The second part of the sectioning pattern consists of a centre parting down the back of the head followed by sections across the back and side areas of the head in an almost horizontal position on both sides of the head.
online hairdressing training & education from the world’s best hairdressers © My Hairdressers Ltd
head block haircuts
c
//medium one length bob:
appendix
headsheet diagram c The cut line will be parallel to the horizontal sections on the head and this reflects the outside shape. Note: It is always good practice to use sections that reflect the outside shape; 1. Each section needs to have an even amount of hair distributed throughout 2. Ensure the sections are accurately parallel, mirroring your outline shape 3. Ensure the hair has even dampness which will produce even tension, thus aiding precision 4. Check you maintain correct body position in relation to the head position 5. Ensure that the tension over the ear allows for the ear protrusion and the hair falls naturally
online hairdressing training & education from the world’s best hairdressers © My Hairdressers Ltd
head block haircuts
d
//medium one length bob:
appendix
headsheet diagram d Take curved sections from the front to the back, embracing much of the hair in the front. This enables you to keep a clean line on the outside.
online hairdressing training & education from the world’s best hairdressers © My Hairdressers Ltd
head block haircuts
f
//medium one length bob:
appendix
headsheet diagram e Working with curved sections in this way - i.e. pulling the hair away from the face - helps eliminate unwanted graduation. If you work parallel horizontal sections through the top you will find that you are left with graduation and an unnatural fall.
online hairdressing training & education from the world’s best hairdressers © My Hairdressers Ltd
//Technical Skills: Blow Drying • Blunt Cutting • Body Position • Club Cutting • Comb Techniques • Finger Position • Freehand Cutting • Scissor Control • Sectioning • Square Lines • Tension
online hairdressing training & education from the world’s best hairdressers © My Hairdressers Ltd
head block haircuts
1
//medium one length bob:
step by step
step 1 With the sectioning, first put in a side parting.
step 2 Now, put equal sectioning on the opposite side. This way it will have an equal position all the way around the head. Note: This section mimics how it would look on a real erson.
step 3 The sectioning pattern we are using is a centre section down the back.
step 4 We take sections across the back area of the head in an almost horizontal position because the cut line will be here, parallel to the horizontal section on the head and reflects the outside shape. Note: It is good practice to use sections that reflect the outside shape.
online hairdressing training & education from the world’s best hairdressers © My Hairdressers Ltd
head block haircuts
2
//medium one length bob:
step by step
step 5 Keep the hair wet and use your scissors to lift the hair into the comb. This creates more tension to keep the hair smooth. Then, cut your line below the comb.
step 6 Finally refine the line through your fingers whilst checking the balance and shape.
step 7 Continue this process with parallel sections working up the head towards the to the top of the ear.
step 8 Points to watch: 1) Each section needs to have an even amount of hair distributed throughout. This is called a clean section.
online hairdressing training & education from the world’s best hairdressers © My Hairdressers Ltd
head block haircuts
3
//medium one length bob:
step by step
step 9 Points to watch: 2) Ensure the sections are accurately parallel, mirroring your outline shape.
step 10 Points to watch: 3) Ensure the hair has even dampness which will produce even tension, thus aiding precision.
step 11 Points to watch: 4) Check you maintain correct body position in relation to the block position. Notice that Stacey's eye line is at the same level as his outline.
step 12 Points to watch: 5) Ensure the hair falls naturally.
online hairdressing training & education from the world’s best hairdressers © My Hairdressers Ltd
head block haircuts
4
//medium one length bob:
step by step
step 13 Continue this process from the back into the front with parallel sections, cutting through the comb and refining with your fingers.
step 14 Check the balance by placing equal tension on the hair. Bring the hair towards the centre and use the comb to check levels.
step 15 The sectioning as it runs from the back to the front mirrors the outline shape.
step 16 Points to watch over the ear areas: 1) Ensure your outline guide has sufficient weight and be mindful of hairline density around the ear. 2) Ensure the tension over the ear allows for the ear protrusion. 3) Again, ensure the hair falls naturally.watch.
online hairdressing training & education from the world’s best hairdressers © My Hairdressers Ltd
head block haircuts
5
//medium one length bob:
step by step
step 17 Take curved sections from the front to the back, embracing much of the hair in the front and enabling you to keep a clean line on the outside. Note: If working horizontal sections through the top, you will find that you are left with graduation. Working with curved sections help eliminate unwanted graduation.
step 18 When working on a block you must hold the hair back and use less tension to get a true angle. Once the hair is blow-dried, check the angle because it will naturally fall forwards.
step 19 We deal with head blocks as if it were a natural head of hair. This way when you come to do the real thing you will be doing the correct actions. This section is left until the hair is blowdried and cut in free hand to allow for the jump in the crown.
step 20 After blow-drying the root area you will have even root lift and an even line. You will see now the crown section area that was left out, dropping down and sitting over the rest of the hair in its natural fall. Remove the bulk of the hair and freehand cut the remaining overhang by lightly pointing the hair away.
online hairdressing training & education from the world’s best hairdressers © My Hairdressers Ltd
head block haircuts
6
//medium one length bob:
step by step
finish This is how to cut a one length bob on a block. You have seen how to control the hair and make it sit perfectly in one line. It is a great exercise and a great discipline.
online hairdressing training & education from the world’s best hairdressers © My Hairdressers Ltd
head block haircuts
a
//medium one length bob:
appendix
headsheet diagram a For the first section put in a side parting and then equal sectioning on the opposite side. This way it will have the same balance and position all the way around the head. This is known as a horseshoe section.
online hairdressing training & education from the world’s best hairdressers © My Hairdressers Ltd
head block haircuts
b
//medium one length bob:
appendix
headsheet diagram b The second part of the sectioning pattern consists of a centre parting down the back of the head followed by sections across the back and side areas of the head in an almost horizontal position on both sides of the head.
online hairdressing training & education from the world’s best hairdressers © My Hairdressers Ltd
head block haircuts
c
//medium one length bob:
appendix
headsheet diagram c The cut line will be parallel to the horizontal sections on the head and this reflects the outside shape. Note: It is always good practice to use sections that reflect the outside shape; 1. Each section needs to have an even amount of hair distributed throughout 2. Ensure the sections are accurately parallel, mirroring your outline shape 3. Ensure the hair has even dampness which will produce even tension, thus aiding precision 4. Check you maintain correct body position in relation to the head position 5. Ensure that the tension over the ear allows for the ear protrusion and the hair falls naturally
online hairdressing training & education from the world’s best hairdressers © My Hairdressers Ltd
head block haircuts
d
//medium one length bob:
appendix
headsheet diagram d Take curved sections from the front to the back, embracing much of the hair in the front. This enables you to keep a clean line on the outside.
online hairdressing training & education from the world’s best hairdressers © My Hairdressers Ltd
head block haircuts
f
//medium one length bob:
appendix
headsheet diagram e Working with curved sections in this way - i.e. pulling the hair away from the face - helps eliminate unwanted graduation. If you work parallel horizontal sections through the top you will find that you are left with graduation and an unnatural fall.
online hairdressing training & education from the world’s best hairdressers © My Hairdressers Ltd
