PeruâCordillera Occidental
Peru— Cordillera Occidental Solimana Traverse and Coropuna, Cordillera Occidental. On June 29 H ans D üm m ler, H ans Raum, Heinz T häter and I left the H acienda H iatapam pa on the Chuquibam ba-C otahuasi road at about 14,450 feet and that same day set up Base Cam p at 16,900 feet below the southeast slopes of Solimana. A fter a day of acclimatization we climbed the c. 19,000-foot easternm ost peak of the Solimana group.* F rom there I descended to the col to the west and followed the ridge over the c. 19,900-foot east sum m it to the c. 20,000-foot west sum m it of Solimana. W e had previously thought the traverse would take us two days. My solo had started only as a reconnaissance of the beginning of the ridge but the whole traverse took only three hours. I descended the north * With the ascents of Schmitt’s party, it appears that there are no more unclimbed summits in this group. The summits run roughly from northeast to southwest. Ghiglione, Rebitsch and party climbed the “northern” peak in 1952, which would seem to be Schmitt’s “east summit”, while Bignani and Blanco in 1970 ascended the highest point or Schmitt’s “west summit”. The Schmitt party therefore seems to have made the second ascent of these and the first ascent of the other summits. It should also be noted that the altitudes given by Schmitt are about 700 feet lower than those previously given. This makes sense since the Peruvian Instituto Geográfico Militar has recently given a new height for nearby Coropuna, which is some 700 feet lower than the previously given altitude.—Editor.
face. My three com panions the next day climbed the east peak by its southeast face and followed my route of the day before. Meanwhile I traversed the tiring south face of Solimana to reach the c. 19,350-foot w esternmost snow peak of the group, following the ridge from Solim ana’s west peak. Raum and T häter climbed the c. 21,000-foot southwest summ it of C oropuna on July 5. I climbed A m pato, reaching the main summit on July 10, using in part the southwest rock ridge, while D üm m ler and Raum, who were farther east, were forced to turn back just below the foresum m it by deep heavy snow. T il m a n S c h m it t ,
D eutscher Alpenverein
face. My three com panions the next day climbed the east peak by its southeast face and followed my route of the day before. Meanwhile I traversed the tiring south face of Solimana to reach the c. 19,350-foot w esternmost snow peak of the group, following the ridge from Solim ana’s west peak. Raum and T häter climbed the c. 21,000-foot southwest summ it of C oropuna on July 5. I climbed A m pato, reaching the main summit on July 10, using in part the southwest rock ridge, while D üm m ler and Raum, who were farther east, were forced to turn back just below the foresum m it by deep heavy snow. T il m a n S c h m it t ,
D eutscher Alpenverein
