photography&design

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5/2002

photography&design

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A Cygnus Publication K - S

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Exotic Photojournalism Commercial Angles New Bags & Cases

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photographygjdesigr www.spdonline.com

contents, continued

G r o u p Publisher K A T H Y SCHNEIDER, ext. 24 Associate Publisher

page 34

E L I Z A B E T H H I L D E N B R A N D ext. 355

Return to Simplicity BY M A R I S A

Art

Director

M A R A N N E PARDAL, ext. 269 Editor A L I C E B. MILLER, ext. 2 2 7

E. C A M P B E L L

Senior Editor

LESLIE C O R R A D O Evokes a Time Gone By

S U S A N SCHECK, ext. 2 8 4 Technical A d v i s o r HELENE D E L I L L O email: [email protected]

page 38

Bags & Cases BY D I A N E

P r o d u c t i o n Manager T I N A KENNEDY, ext. 253 CIRCULATION

BERKENFELD

p h o n e : 920.563.1769, fax: 920.563.1704, o r

Raring t o Go in Style

e-mail: c o m m e n t s @ s p d o n l i n e . c o m Circulation Manager

page 46

MICHELLE LEE B R U H N

Breakthrough BY LELA

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EXECUTIVE OFFICE 445 Broad H o l l o w Road Melville, N Y

© JILL G R E E N B E R G

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JILL GREENBERG's Evolving

Fax: 63 1.845.7109

Digital Composites

JACK G R A F I N G Sales Representative, ext. 275 C H R I S T I N E BARBIERI Sales Representative, ext. 343 LARISSA OVEJAS Classified Sales Representative, ext. 261 A N I T A STOKES A d m i n i s t r a t i v e Assistant, ext. 341 F o r change o f address o r subscription i n f o r m a t i o n , call 9 2 0 . 5 6 3 . 1 7 6 9 o r f a x 9 2 0 . 5 6 3 . 1 7 0 4 o r email [email protected]

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C Y G N U S BUSINESS M E D I A President & C E O

Paul M a c k l e r

C h i e f Financial O f f i c e r

C a r l Fazio

VP o f H u m a n Resources

Judy H e i d e b r e c h t

VP o f Information Technology

G o r d o n Gavin

C Y G N U S PUBLISHING President

Richard Reiff

G r o u p Vice President

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VP o f M a n u f a c t u r i n g

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D i r e c t o r o f Circulation CYGNUS CUSTOM

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also f e a t u r e d t h i s m o n t h

Cover

F-STOP HOT TIPS WEDDING TIPS AD CRITIC PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

image:

© ERIC

MARKETING

President

B o b Stange CYGNUS

6 8 24 30 42

S c o t t Cravens

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PRODUCT/LITERATURE SHOWCASE

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MARKETPLACE

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MEOLA

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EXPOSITIONS

President

Jeff Price C Y G N U S INTERACTIVE

Director PDA DrH

C h r i s t o p h e r D. O r r

Photography & Design (USPS #431-020, SSN# 1097- 181, Canada sales agreement no. I 189 13 I). is published 12 times a year by Cygnus \ Business Media. RO. Box 47, Ft. Atkinson, W l 53538V 0047; (631) 845-2700. Periodicals class postage paid at Fort Atkinson, W l , and additional mailing offices. Subscription prices: U.SA.$39.95 I year $68.00 2 years, Canada and Mexico $88.00 I year $ 149.00 2 years. All other countries $ 1 1 9 1 year Back issues: $10.00. POSTMASTER; Please send change o f address forms to: Studio Photography & Design, RO. Box 47, Ft. Atkinson. W l 53538-0047. Cygnus Business Media is t h e world's largest publisher o f professional photographic rnagazines: Photographic Processing, Photo Trade N e w s , P M A Daily N e w s , and Photokina News. S

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CYGNUS BUSINESS MEDIA IS A COMMERCECONNECT MEDIA COMPANY No information here may be reproduced without permission.

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BY-SUSAN SCHECK

WPPI2002 A Huge Success T h e W e d d i n g and Portrait Photographers International (WPPI) Convention and T r a d e S h o w , h e l d a t t h e T r o p i c a n a H o t e l in Las Vegas ( M a r c h 1 0 - 1 4 ) , w a s t h e o r g a n i z a t i o n ' s biggest a n d b e s t e v e n t t o d a t e . M o r e t h a n 5,000 p e o p l e a t t e n d e d

Ritz Interactive Buys PhotoAlley R i t z I n t e r a c t i v e I n c . has a c q u i r e d

W P P I , w i t h a large n u m b e r o f a t t e n d e e s c o m i n g f r o m a r o u n d t h e w o r l d . M a n y

P h o t o A l l e y . c o m , o n e o f its m a j o r e-tail

v e n d o r s r e p o r t e d r e c o r d sales a n d i n t e r e s t .

c o m p e t i t o r s . A c c o r d i n g t o Fred

W P P I ' s annual 1 6 x 2 0 p r i n t c o m p e t i t i o n , h e l d a t t h e c o n v e n t i o n , g a r n e r e d m o r e t h a n 1,000 e n t r i e s a n d p r o d u c e d s o m e a s t o n i s h i n g p h o t o g r a p h y . T h e p l a t f o r m

Lerner, p r e s i d e n t and C E O o f Ritz, t h e PhotoAlley.com branding and U R L will

speakers this y e a r r e p r e s e n t e d n o t o n l y t h e b e s t p h o t o g r a p h e r s in t h e U.S., b u t

r e m a i n t h e s a m e t o leverage t h e w e b -

also a c o n t i n g e n t o f g r e a t p h o t o g r a p h e r s f r o m a r o u n d t h e w o r l d . Such speakers

site's w e l l - e s t a b l i s h e d b r a n d a n d e x i s t -

as Rick F e r r o , Bill M c i n t o s h , D e n i s Reggie, K e n S k l u t e , a n d M o n t e Z u c k e r p a r t i c i -

ing c u s t o m e r base.

pated, along w i t h 39 o t h e r presenters.

T h i s is t h e s e c o n d m a j o r a c q u i s i t i o n

A special D V D p r e s e n t a t i o n o f t h e p h o t o g r a p h y o f s o m e o f W P P I ' s m o s t d i s t i n g u i s h e d m e m b e r s w a s s h o w n o n t h e final e v e n i n g o f t h e c o n v e n t i o n . Special

f o r R i t z I n t e r a c t i v e w i t h i n t h e last year. In O c t o b e r 2 0 0 1 , t h e I r v i n e -

i n d u s t r y a w a r d s w e r e p r e s e n t e d t o distinguished p h o t o g r a p h e r s p a r t i c i p a t i n g in

based c o m p a n y a c q u i r e d

this year's p r i n t c o m p e t i t i o n by Eastman K o d a k ( t h e K o d a k A w a r d s o f

W o l f C a m e r a . c o m . Ritz Interactive's

D i s t i n c t i o n ) a n d Fuji P h o t o Film ( T h e Fuji N e w A p p r o a c h A w a r d s ) . O t h e r a w a r d s

flagship s i t e , R i t z C a m e r a . c o m , is a

o f n o t e w e r e t w o W P P I L i f e t i m e A c h i e v e m e n t a w a r d s given t o M o n t e Z u c k e r

major online shopping destination f o r

and Bambi C a n t r e l l . T h e o r g a n i z a t i o n is l o o k i n g f o r w a r d t o n e x t year's c o n v e n t i o n

p h o t o g r a p h i c p r o d u c t s a n d acces-

a n d t r a d e s h o w t o be h e l d Feb. 2 - 6 a t Bally's Las Vegas.

s o r i e s , t h e c o m p a n y said.

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5 / 2 0 0 2 studio photography & design

TEXT BY SUSAN SCHEC

IMAGES BY ROBERT D E U T S C H M A

L

isten to Rob D e u t s c h m a n , a n d y o u w i l l hear a m a n w h o k n o w s f i r m l y w h e r e his strengths a n d weakness lie. H e ' s a m a n w i t h a p l a n , a n d n o w t h a t p l a n is p a y i n g off handsomely. R e f u s i n g to heed p h o t o g r a p h e r f r i e n d s w h o u r g e d h i m t o g o after l o w - p a y i n g e d i t o r i a l 1 w o r k e a r l y i n his career f o r r e c o g n i t i o n , D e u t s c h m a n chose to p u r s u e m o r e l u c r a t i v e Once he m a d e a decent l i v i n g , he reasoned, he w o u l d " h i r e h i m s e l f " t d o his o w n concept shots f o r h i s b o o k , t h u s g a i n i n g the requisite e d i t o r i a l l o o k t h a t w o u l d open doors for h i m . A t a l e n t e d p r o shooter he w a s ; a m a r k e t he w a s n o t . D e u t s c h m a n w a s self-aware e n o u g h to realize that t o achieve h i s goals he needed representation. S h o o t i n g 20 t o 30 d a v s a

portfolios i n a t i m e l y m a n n e r , c o l d calli n g , p l a c i n g ads, u p d a t i n p o r t f o l i o s w i t h ads o r photos, b i d d i n g o n ad

agency jobs, a n d f i n d i n g crew, i f n e e d e d .

PIZER P O W E R

Enter L o s A n g e l e s based p h o t o g r a p h e r ' s rep A l y s s a Pizer, w h o , e i g h t years ago, w a s i n

Robert Deutschman'i Recession-Proo Business Plai studio photography & design

search of n e w clientele. Pizer a n d D e u t s c h m a n h a d a m u t u a l acquaintance-—the art d i r e c t o r at a B r o a d w a y d e p a r t m e n t s t o r e — w h o t o l d Pizer she s h o u l d see D e u t s c h m a n ' s w o r k . T h e y connected. I t p r o v e d t o be a fortuitous move. " I t w a s the best t h i n g t h a t h a p p e n e d to m e , " he said. " W i t h o u t t h a t c o n n e c t i o n , i t w o u l d h a v e t a k e n m e l o n g e r to h a v e t h i s l e v e l of success." Because of P i z e r ' s efforts, D e u t s c h m a n has w o r k e d f o r clients i n c l u d i n g B u d w e i s e r , C h a n e l , D i o r , E d d i e Bauer, L o r d & Taylor, N o r d s t r o m , a n d N o r d s t r o m . c o m , f o r w h i c h he p r o d u c e d the images f e a t u r e d i n t h i s story. Pizer c o u r t e d N o r d s t r o m for a n u m b e r of years, f i r s t c o l d - c a l l i n g a n d a r r a n g i n g a m e e t i n g w i t h the art b u y e r to i n t r o d u c e herself a n d D e u t s c h m a n , t h e n s e n d i n g his p o r t f o l i o a n d p r o m o t i o n a l f l y e r s t o the b u y e r repeatedly. Pizer f i n a l l y h i t p a y d i r t , w i t h D e u t s c h m a n b e c o m i n g a regular for the d e p a r t m e n t store a n d e a r n i n g a set fee based o n image usage, the u s u a l p r a c t i c e w i t h stores a n d c a t a l o g s . N o t so i n t h e a d v e r t i s i n g a g e n c y w o r l d , P i z e r says, w h e r e free b i d d i n g is t h e n o r m .

expressed w h a t w a s needed c r e a t i v e l y D e u t s c h m a n called ahead to let the s t u d i o k n o w w h a t e q u i p m e n t he needed. H e s h o w e d u p a h a l f - h o u r after e v e r y o n e else to g i v e t h e m t i m e to prepare clothes, hair, a n d m a k e u p . H e conf e r r e d w i t h the art d i r e c t o r a b o u t the clothes a n d l i g h t i n g , t o o k test shots w i t h Polaroids, t w e a k e d lighting and makeup, t h e n shot final a t t i t u d e a n d closeup images. D e u t s c h m a n uses a M a m i y a RZ67 w i t h a 6 5 - 9 0 m m lens, w i t h Dyna-Lite and Profoto. H e prefers K o d a k ElOOS for i transparencies, I and K o d a k P o r t r a 160 a n d 400 f o r negatives.

NORDSTROM.COM Creatively, the shoot f o r Nordstrom.com was fairly r o u t i n e as d e p a r t m e n t store shoots go, D e u t s c h m a n a n d Pizer said. N o r d s t r o m ' s i n house p r o d u c e r set u p the l o c a t i o n , stylists, crew, a n d m o d e l s , a n d the art b u y e r let Pizer k n o w w h e r e the shoot w o u l d be h e l d . She'd also receive call sheets, w i t h instructions about the shoot. A s Pizer e x p l a i n s , sometimes comps are sent o v e r so the s h o o t e r k n o w s w h a t the client w a n t s or the creative is f l e s h e d o u t at p r e - p r o d u c tion meetings. O n c e the shoot was under way, the art d i r e c t o r

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DIGITAL CUSTOMIZATION W h i l e D e u t s c h m a n doesn't c a p t u r e d i g i t a l l y , uses the t e c h n o l o g y e x t e n s i v e l y f o r his p o r t f o l i o W i t h d e s k t o p e d i t i n g , he creates a cohesive p o r t f o l i o t a i l o r e d t o each p r o s p e c t i v e client. A freelancer designs e d i t o r i a l pages a n d his s t u d i o assistant scans a n d retouches the images Together, the t w o create a b o o k . Digital technology not o n l y helps h i m get w o r k , b u t h e l p s h i m save m o n e y . T h e shooter w e n t o n l i n e a b o u t a year a n d a h a l f ago w i t h his o w n w e b s i t e — w w w , r o b e r t d e u t s c h m a n .c o m — a n d he's also repre sented at Pizer's s i t e — www.alyssapizer.com. P u t t i n g his b o o k o n l i n e saves h i m a b o u t $2,500 p e r m o n t h i n s h i p p i n g costs. " I h a v e 10 p o r t f o l i o s t h a t are a l w a y s o u t ; the b i g a d agencies g i v e y o u a FedEx n u m b e r , b u t the smaller ones d o n ' t , a n d i t a d d s u p , " he says. A n o n l i n e presence is a timesaver, / t o o — i f agencies d o n ' t h a v e t i m e to call i n h i s p o r t f o l i o , t h e y can s u r f to his site.

SMART M O N E Y This savvy combination of avantg a r d e business a p p r o a c h , p r o f e s s i o n al r e p r e s e n t a t i o n , a n d s m a r t use of t e c h n o l o g y has p a i d o f f i n spades f o r Deutschman. " I h a v e n ' t felt the recession at a l l ; m y i n c o m e d o u b l e d last year o v e r the year b e f o r e , a n d t h a t w a s a r e a l l y g o o d i n c o m e . T h i s year, I ' m 10 p e r c e n t o v e r w h a t I n e e d to average to e a r n w h a t I e a r n e d last year. A n d I a t t r i b u t e t h a t t o A l y s s a , " he says. W h e n the e c o n o m y n o s e d i v e d , instead of c u t t i n g back, Pizer k e p t D e u t s c h m a n ' s rates u p , p u m p e d m o r e m o n e y i n t o ads, w e n t t o s h o w s , a n d increased c o l d c a l l ing. Meanwhile, Deutschman p o u r e d m o r e m o n e y i n t o his p o r t f o l i o projects. B u t i t takes m o n e y t o m a k e m o n e y , as the s a y i n g goes. To keep 10 p o r t f o l i o s c i r c u l a t i n g , p a y f o r a d v e r t i s i n g pages i n source b o o k s , a n d r e p r i n t i n g o f those pages t o m a i l once or t w i c e a year to 18,000 p o t e n t i a l clients studio photography & design 5 / 2 0 0 2

costs b e t w e e n $20,000 a n d $40,00 per year—not something a beginn i n g shooter can m a n a g e , Pizer says. Last year, D e u t s c h m a n estimates he spent $45,000 t o $60,000 on advertising. T h e shooter considers i t m o n e y w e l l spent, because he c o n t i n u e s t o achieve h i s goals. H e ' s m a k i n a b i g p u s h i n t o the m u s i c industry; i n early A p r i l , he t r a v e l e d to C u b a , w h e r e h p h o t o g r a p h e d three h i p hop groups. D e u t s c h m a n ' s getting m u c h more editorial w o r k , a n d has a s h o o t scheduled for Essence m a g a z i n e . "It's a l l a m a z i n g w o r k , " he says. •

INCREASING YOUR MARKETABILITY Making potential clients think of you first in a sluggish economy takes more than technical competence. Here are some tips from Pizer that will enhance your personal and business marketability: • Be personable, professional, and pleasant on a shoot. • Try t o cultivate a can-do attitude, and above all, don't be difficult. It makes the difference in getting hired again. If you're n o t personable, it also jeopardizes o t h e r shooters' chances of getting hired [from the same rep]. • Make sure your portfolio is current.There's no faster way t o get disqualified than t o have ancient shots in your book, even if you think they're stunning.

ROBERT DEUTSCHMAN'S GEAR BOX

MEDIUM-FORMAT CAMERA Mamiya RZ67 with 65-90mm lenses LIGHTING Dyna-Lite Profoto

FILM

Kodak Ektachrome E-100S Kodak Portra 160, 400

© D O N GALE

T

his v i b r a n t i m a g e w a s a change o f pace f o r p h o t o g r a p h e r D o n G a l e , o f P h o t o g r a p h y b y D o n , El M o n t e , C a l i f o r n i a . It w a s t a k e n a t Jaco B e a c h , a

p o p u l a r local s u r f i n g a r e a o n t h e Pacific c o a s t o f

ground." Gale used a N i k o n N 9 0 s w i t h a T a m r o n 2 0 - 4 0 m m z o o m lens, o n a G i t z o t r i p o d w i t h a ball h e a d . H e e x p o s e d Fuji Velvia f i l m a t f / l I f o r t w o s e c o n d s , using

C o s t a Rica. G a l e w a s in t h e c o u n t r y t o s h o o t p r o m o -

a Lee graduated w a r m i n g filter t o intensify t h e already

t i o n a l images f o r a t o u r o p e r a t o r .

w a r m c o l o r s . A s i t w a s s u n s e t , t h e available l i g h t w a s

A l t h o u g h h e w a s b e h i n d s c h e d u l e a n d late t o his h o t e l b y t h r e e h o u r s , he a n d his c r e w c o u l d n ' t resist p u l l i n g o v e r f o r an i m p r o m p t u s h o o t o f t h e s p e c t a c u -

dim. T h e film was processed normally o n t h e Refrema p r o c e s s o r a t C M S Lab in Pasadena, C a l i f o r n i a .

lar b e a c h scenes t h e y w e r e passing. " W e w e r e t h e only people o n this amazing beach . . . q u i t e a s h o c k f o r a g u y f r o m L.A. w h o can n e v e r g e t a n y local b e a c h s h o t s w i t h o u t a c r o w d in t h e f o r e -

studio photography & design 5 / 2 0 0 2

For more of Gale's images, visit www.photographybydon.com



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