Saddle Stitch on Classic Suit Lapel

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1S Saddle Stitch on Classic Suit Lapel http://localhost/techniques/saddle-stitch-on-classic-suit-lapel

The Saddle Stitch is a decorative stitch, often seen on menâs jackets, but you could use it as a design element many places. Iâve been envisioning it on the Paola dress. The Saddle Stitch is basically a basting stitch, but done very carefully and with a contrasting topstitching/buttonhole/coat thread for visibility. Perfect decorative hand-stitching is a bit of a challenge for me, so Iâve devised a good cheat to get beautiful results, as I show you here. Step 1

Iâm demonstrating on our Stinchcomb jacket. Use your clear ruler plastic ruler and tailorâs chalk to draw straight lines ¼ away from the edge. Follow the lapel notch as shown for a classic rendition. Step 2

2S Your stitches should be ¼â â 3/8â in length, with the same length of dead space between the stitches. Because I am very bad at eyeballing this type of thing, Iâve devised an Eraserhead-style technique to help myself out. Using the ruler, place pins spaced ¼â apart. Then give an alternating straight hand stitch. Step 3

When approaching the corner, place the pin at the corner, and work the pins out toward the stitches youâve already given. In case the distance isnât equally divisible by ¼â, space out the pins equally to divide up the difference. In this case, it was just about 1/16th I had to deal with. Step 4

3S Continue method to the first point in the notch. Step 5

And now here. Step 6

4S Continue and continue, get back in the saddleâ¦

Saddle Stitch on Classic Suit Lapel