Serger Techniques Class Outline & Supply List
Serger Techniques Class Outline & Supply List Review of basics:
Securing thread tails - 3 methods Differential feed purpose – which feed dogs are affected, what do higher & lower settings affect? Resolving tension issues – cause of seam tunneling, puckering, thread breaking, effect of cutting width Set up for narrow & wide seams – which needle setting and cutting width Size & kind of needles that are ok Why use 2 or 3 or 4 thread seams – advantages & disadvantages
2 Threads on various fabrics:
balanced overlock/clean seam finish, replacing facings & overstitching for satin stitch effect. Inside and outside curves inside and outside corners patchwork piecing alternating seams quilt as you go piecing blindstitch hem with overlock stitch decorative thread (Jeans Stitch/Cordonnet) braiding on washaway stabilizer piping application using special foot, and ruched piping method wrapped edge with tension & length adjustment, deco thread (Candlelight ), & heavy fabric narrow rolled hem edge with corner trims on medium weights using Isacord thread narrow rolled edge to attach ribbing to t-shirt neck & lettuce edge using Wooly Nylon/Poly Yarn use of blindhem foot for guide in flatlocking flatlocked fringe on wool using ribbon floss flatlock blanket stitch with deco thread (Serger Yarn) using wash away stabilizer and fleece flatlock on fold with Pearl Cotton thread flatlock on fold ladders with stitch length/width adjustment effect, metallic thread, ribbon weaving flatlock bead couching on a fold or as a seam with special foot
3 Threads on various fabrics:
All the 2-thread samples can be 3-thread narrow overlock pintucks using natural direction of lay and monofilament thread narrow overlock spaghetti straps using Wooly Nylon on shear decorative thread (Pearl Crown/Designer 6) wide & narrow overlock on fleece Seams Great under overlock stitch to prevent pokies on terry, and under rolled hem on lame fabrics making lace with washaway stabilizer and the wide overlock stitch & variegated color thread super stretch stitch on knits using 2 needles & 1 looper with converter and Wooly Nylon thread flatlock fagoting with blindhem foot, 2 fabrics & deco thread (Isacord) flatlock joining 2 fabrics with ribbon in stitching using tape foot flatlock hem with blindhem foot & monofilament flatlock ribbing to t-shirt neck with variegated thread on visible seam flatlock piecing (as in tote project) with deco thread (Pearl Crown Rayon/Designer 6) flatlocked tubes, straps & beltloops narrow rolled hem pintuck as heirloom on shears rolled hem fringe rolled hem with fish line, using cording foot, bias cut or stretchy lightweight fabric and monofilament rolled hem with floral wire, using cording foot, lightweight fabric and Holoshimmer thread rolled hem covered cording for button loops or for couching using serger yarn or wooly nylon) creating cordless piping with rolled hem over a folded edge, overstitching for thicker piping mock piped hem with deco thread (variegated) double-sided ruffled border & hem using 2 fabrics of uneven lengths seamed with mock piping.
4 Threads on various fabric:s
overlock flatfelled seam finished with topstitching (chain or domestic straight stitch) on denim/home deco fabric overlocking tightly curved edges to be turned under – working tension & stitch length to advantage using knit traditional overlocked ribbing to t-shirt neckline stabilizing seams with twill tape in the overlock using tape foot elastic casings – 3 methods with overlock stitch & elasticator foot gathering with the special foot and without it gathering one fabric while seaming to another
Coverstitch & Chain stitch: (JLx2 needles for chain stitch)
Supply list:
overlock/chain combination (5 thread) – industry standard for sturdy seams narrow overlock/chain combo (5 thread) in rolled hem setup – couture seam finish for lightweight fabrics decorative chain stitch using decorator thread chain stitch for basting or top stitching chain stitching texture to organza sandwiched between washaway stabilizer to embellish fabric with more color wide coverstitch gathering using differential feed & length adjustments coverstitched belt loops, tubes, straps, mock flat felled seam coverstitch hems for knits – & triple needle with contrasting needle thread colors coverstitch as decorative stitch – lessen needle tension & foot pressure, lengthen stitch length to allow turning fabric. 1. decorative thread (serger yarn) cable embellishment 2. variegated threads will create plaid embellishment. Combine with chain stitch rows. This procedure can be stitched on washaway stabilizer to create an open-weave scarf or shawl.
clear plastic sheet protectors (each will hold 2 samples) 3-ring binder 3” wide appropriate screwdriver for Glue stick changing needles Basic serger sewing kit (see list to right spare needles Serger, accessories, and manual machine needle threader & Following threads in any color needle holder combo Metroflock Nylon by Mettler or MaxiLock stretch bushy cosmetic type brush Pearl Crown Rayon or Designer 6 by YLI dental floss threaders Isacord embroidery thread large eyed hand Ribbon Floss by YLI (or other 1/8” wide available at Rufflers Roost, Chandler) embroidery needle Candlelight by YLI or Glamour by Madeira serger seam ripper baby yarn (smooth & tightly twisted) or Serging Yarn by YLI bent end long tweezers Jean Stitch by YLI or Cordonnet by Mettler 2-4 horizontal spool holders fine metallic by Gutermann, Sulky, or Yenmet pins monofilament polyester by Sulky, Mettler or Madeira thread scissors Holoshimmer by Sulky Pencil with eraser Needles – only sizes 10-14 in universals, ballpoint or stretch, sharp or microtex, & topstitch Instructor will supply fish line, floral wire, cording, elastic, twill tape, Seams Great, fabrics, and water soluble stabilizer.
Securing thread tails - 3 methods Differential feed purpose – which feed dogs are affected, what do higher & lower settings affect? Resolving tension issues – cause of seam tunneling, puckering, thread breaking, effect of cutting width Set up for narrow & wide seams – which needle setting and cutting width Size & kind of needles that are ok Why use 2 or 3 or 4 thread seams – advantages & disadvantages
2 Threads on various fabrics:
balanced overlock/clean seam finish, replacing facings & overstitching for satin stitch effect. Inside and outside curves inside and outside corners patchwork piecing alternating seams quilt as you go piecing blindstitch hem with overlock stitch decorative thread (Jeans Stitch/Cordonnet) braiding on washaway stabilizer piping application using special foot, and ruched piping method wrapped edge with tension & length adjustment, deco thread (Candlelight ), & heavy fabric narrow rolled hem edge with corner trims on medium weights using Isacord thread narrow rolled edge to attach ribbing to t-shirt neck & lettuce edge using Wooly Nylon/Poly Yarn use of blindhem foot for guide in flatlocking flatlocked fringe on wool using ribbon floss flatlock blanket stitch with deco thread (Serger Yarn) using wash away stabilizer and fleece flatlock on fold with Pearl Cotton thread flatlock on fold ladders with stitch length/width adjustment effect, metallic thread, ribbon weaving flatlock bead couching on a fold or as a seam with special foot
3 Threads on various fabrics:
All the 2-thread samples can be 3-thread narrow overlock pintucks using natural direction of lay and monofilament thread narrow overlock spaghetti straps using Wooly Nylon on shear decorative thread (Pearl Crown/Designer 6) wide & narrow overlock on fleece Seams Great under overlock stitch to prevent pokies on terry, and under rolled hem on lame fabrics making lace with washaway stabilizer and the wide overlock stitch & variegated color thread super stretch stitch on knits using 2 needles & 1 looper with converter and Wooly Nylon thread flatlock fagoting with blindhem foot, 2 fabrics & deco thread (Isacord) flatlock joining 2 fabrics with ribbon in stitching using tape foot flatlock hem with blindhem foot & monofilament flatlock ribbing to t-shirt neck with variegated thread on visible seam flatlock piecing (as in tote project) with deco thread (Pearl Crown Rayon/Designer 6) flatlocked tubes, straps & beltloops narrow rolled hem pintuck as heirloom on shears rolled hem fringe rolled hem with fish line, using cording foot, bias cut or stretchy lightweight fabric and monofilament rolled hem with floral wire, using cording foot, lightweight fabric and Holoshimmer thread rolled hem covered cording for button loops or for couching using serger yarn or wooly nylon) creating cordless piping with rolled hem over a folded edge, overstitching for thicker piping mock piped hem with deco thread (variegated) double-sided ruffled border & hem using 2 fabrics of uneven lengths seamed with mock piping.
4 Threads on various fabric:s
overlock flatfelled seam finished with topstitching (chain or domestic straight stitch) on denim/home deco fabric overlocking tightly curved edges to be turned under – working tension & stitch length to advantage using knit traditional overlocked ribbing to t-shirt neckline stabilizing seams with twill tape in the overlock using tape foot elastic casings – 3 methods with overlock stitch & elasticator foot gathering with the special foot and without it gathering one fabric while seaming to another
Coverstitch & Chain stitch: (JLx2 needles for chain stitch)
Supply list:
overlock/chain combination (5 thread) – industry standard for sturdy seams narrow overlock/chain combo (5 thread) in rolled hem setup – couture seam finish for lightweight fabrics decorative chain stitch using decorator thread chain stitch for basting or top stitching chain stitching texture to organza sandwiched between washaway stabilizer to embellish fabric with more color wide coverstitch gathering using differential feed & length adjustments coverstitched belt loops, tubes, straps, mock flat felled seam coverstitch hems for knits – & triple needle with contrasting needle thread colors coverstitch as decorative stitch – lessen needle tension & foot pressure, lengthen stitch length to allow turning fabric. 1. decorative thread (serger yarn) cable embellishment 2. variegated threads will create plaid embellishment. Combine with chain stitch rows. This procedure can be stitched on washaway stabilizer to create an open-weave scarf or shawl.
clear plastic sheet protectors (each will hold 2 samples) 3-ring binder 3” wide appropriate screwdriver for Glue stick changing needles Basic serger sewing kit (see list to right spare needles Serger, accessories, and manual machine needle threader & Following threads in any color needle holder combo Metroflock Nylon by Mettler or MaxiLock stretch bushy cosmetic type brush Pearl Crown Rayon or Designer 6 by YLI dental floss threaders Isacord embroidery thread large eyed hand Ribbon Floss by YLI (or other 1/8” wide available at Rufflers Roost, Chandler) embroidery needle Candlelight by YLI or Glamour by Madeira serger seam ripper baby yarn (smooth & tightly twisted) or Serging Yarn by YLI bent end long tweezers Jean Stitch by YLI or Cordonnet by Mettler 2-4 horizontal spool holders fine metallic by Gutermann, Sulky, or Yenmet pins monofilament polyester by Sulky, Mettler or Madeira thread scissors Holoshimmer by Sulky Pencil with eraser Needles – only sizes 10-14 in universals, ballpoint or stretch, sharp or microtex, & topstitch Instructor will supply fish line, floral wire, cording, elastic, twill tape, Seams Great, fabrics, and water soluble stabilizer.
