STI164Y1GT_TG Spain and Portugal PART TWO.indd
DELICIOUS CITIES
Porto Sunbleached alleys sloping photogenically down to the Douro River; a metallic rainbow of a bridge built by that Eiffel chap, longboats purring by; and patio tables clinking with carafes of local wine and port. Porto doesn’t come with a checklist of sights — it’s big on atmosphere and good looks, though — but a checklist of places to eat comes in handy. It’s all about quality produce here: the sea’s right there and the Douro Valley’s lush vineyards and bodegas are just two hours away. You’ll tuck into farm-fresh pork, olive oil and honey, meaty slabs of octopus and cod — just as tempting in the raucous tumble of tapas bars as in the fine-dining spots. And, of course, top off each feast with everyone’s favourite Christmas tipple. The must-try: Locals will say it’s the francesinha, a cheese-wrapped pork sarnie in tomato sauce, but for our money, it’s more ordeal than meal. Try
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bread-thickened seafood stew açorda de marisco instead, at old-school Taberna dos Mercadores (facebook. com/tabernamercadores; £15 for two). The blow-out meal: For an eyeful of Porto’s russet rooftops and glittering Douro, take the river-taxi (£2.60) for lunch at hillside Barão Fladgate (baraofladgate.com; mains about £17). Whet your appetite with a tour ’n’ tasting at adjoining port house Taylor’s (taylor. pt; £11), then nab a terrace table for a sun-soaked city panorama. Or bask in the ’70s vibe over steaks at Book (restaurantebook.pt; mains about £15). The brilliant bargain: Porto loves a sandwich, so cheap lunches are a cinch. Tuck into sardine and tomato, or goat’s cheese with honey and walnut, as part of A Sandeira’s £5 deal (asandeira.pt). Plus there’s sangria or vinho verde at £2 a slosh. Otherwise, do slick tapas on the convivial patio at Ribeira Square (Praça Ribeiro 16; from £5.20). The top tipple: It’s port, and the older and more syrupy, the better. Most of the big houses do 30-minute tours with tasters for about £9. Your in-town aperitif is white port and tonic (more
robust and fruitier than a G&T): have one at Base, a rooftop lawn that almost begs you to go barefoot (baseporto.com). The takeaway: Pick up candy-coloured sardine tins, port-flavoured chocs and vials of camellia liqueur at cafe-deli Mercearia das Flores (merceariadas flores.com/en). Buy the ports you’ve tasted from the makers themselves (from £7), or from the off-licence at 220 Flores, with bargain bottles from £4.30. The tour: Taste Porto’s guides take you to the best tabernas, plus Bolhão Market (tasteporto.com; 3.5 hours; £55). If you’ve time, take a day cruise through the Douro Valley, where light glows through vine leaves and ruby goblets (indouro.com; from £74pp). Get me there: The Yeatman’s winethemed spa and views are tough to beat, but dine out to save cash (the-yeatman-hotel.com/en; doubles from £190, B&B). Monarch (monarch. co.uk) flies from Birmingham, Luton and Manchester, from £76 return, and also has two nights at the Yeatman from £309pp, room only, with flights (monarch.co.uk/holidays). Lucy Thackray
HOTEL HIDEAWAY THE MEDIEVAL ONE Tiny Marvão village is perched on a dramatic crag, ringed by castellated walls and surrounded by flower-filled Alentejo meadows dotted with dolmens. The streets have changed little since Crusader times. Ditto the recipes. Set in a medieval mansion with roaring fires and bow-tied staff, Pousada do Marvão is the best, most atmospheric place to soak up the gamey sauces and broths. Travel’s tip: Clamber up the castle walls for views of soaring vultures — from above. Doubles from £66, B&B; pousadas.pt.
Porto Sunbleached alleys sloping photogenically down to the Douro River; a metallic rainbow of a bridge built by that Eiffel chap, longboats purring by; and patio tables clinking with carafes of local wine and port. Porto doesn’t come with a checklist of sights — it’s big on atmosphere and good looks, though — but a checklist of places to eat comes in handy. It’s all about quality produce here: the sea’s right there and the Douro Valley’s lush vineyards and bodegas are just two hours away. You’ll tuck into farm-fresh pork, olive oil and honey, meaty slabs of octopus and cod — just as tempting in the raucous tumble of tapas bars as in the fine-dining spots. And, of course, top off each feast with everyone’s favourite Christmas tipple. The must-try: Locals will say it’s the francesinha, a cheese-wrapped pork sarnie in tomato sauce, but for our money, it’s more ordeal than meal. Try
62
SUNDAY TIMES TRAVEL SEPTEMBER 2017
bread-thickened seafood stew açorda de marisco instead, at old-school Taberna dos Mercadores (facebook. com/tabernamercadores; £15 for two). The blow-out meal: For an eyeful of Porto’s russet rooftops and glittering Douro, take the river-taxi (£2.60) for lunch at hillside Barão Fladgate (baraofladgate.com; mains about £17). Whet your appetite with a tour ’n’ tasting at adjoining port house Taylor’s (taylor. pt; £11), then nab a terrace table for a sun-soaked city panorama. Or bask in the ’70s vibe over steaks at Book (restaurantebook.pt; mains about £15). The brilliant bargain: Porto loves a sandwich, so cheap lunches are a cinch. Tuck into sardine and tomato, or goat’s cheese with honey and walnut, as part of A Sandeira’s £5 deal (asandeira.pt). Plus there’s sangria or vinho verde at £2 a slosh. Otherwise, do slick tapas on the convivial patio at Ribeira Square (Praça Ribeiro 16; from £5.20). The top tipple: It’s port, and the older and more syrupy, the better. Most of the big houses do 30-minute tours with tasters for about £9. Your in-town aperitif is white port and tonic (more
robust and fruitier than a G&T): have one at Base, a rooftop lawn that almost begs you to go barefoot (baseporto.com). The takeaway: Pick up candy-coloured sardine tins, port-flavoured chocs and vials of camellia liqueur at cafe-deli Mercearia das Flores (merceariadas flores.com/en). Buy the ports you’ve tasted from the makers themselves (from £7), or from the off-licence at 220 Flores, with bargain bottles from £4.30. The tour: Taste Porto’s guides take you to the best tabernas, plus Bolhão Market (tasteporto.com; 3.5 hours; £55). If you’ve time, take a day cruise through the Douro Valley, where light glows through vine leaves and ruby goblets (indouro.com; from £74pp). Get me there: The Yeatman’s winethemed spa and views are tough to beat, but dine out to save cash (the-yeatman-hotel.com/en; doubles from £190, B&B). Monarch (monarch. co.uk) flies from Birmingham, Luton and Manchester, from £76 return, and also has two nights at the Yeatman from £309pp, room only, with flights (monarch.co.uk/holidays). Lucy Thackray
HOTEL HIDEAWAY THE MEDIEVAL ONE Tiny Marvão village is perched on a dramatic crag, ringed by castellated walls and surrounded by flower-filled Alentejo meadows dotted with dolmens. The streets have changed little since Crusader times. Ditto the recipes. Set in a medieval mansion with roaring fires and bow-tied staff, Pousada do Marvão is the best, most atmospheric place to soak up the gamey sauces and broths. Travel’s tip: Clamber up the castle walls for views of soaring vultures — from above. Doubles from £66, B&B; pousadas.pt.
