Trees & Shrubs-Planting Bare Root
CORNELL COOPERATIVE EXTENSION OF ONEIDA COUNTY
HOME GROWN FACTS 121 Second Street, Oriskany, NY 13424-9799 (315) 736-3394 or (315) 337-2531 FAX: (315) 736-2580
Bare Root Tree Planting What does that mean? Bare root trees are trees that are dug and stored without any soil around their roots. Trees can be bought "bare root," and then planted directly into the ground. What are the advantages of planting bare root trees? More root mass. Bare root trees can have up to 200% more roots than B&B (balled and burlapped) or container trees, depending on the soil and transplanting history at the nursery. Lower cost. Without extra labor and materials, bare root trees cost seller and buyer less. Easier planting. A young tree without soil weighs little, so it easy to move and plant. There must be some disadvantages! Less work time. Once they leave the nursery, bare root trees need to get in the ground within a week at the longest. With no soil, the roots can dry out and die if left exposed for any time. Narrower planting window. Bare root trees need good soil moisture, so mid-spring (before budbreak) and mid-fall (after leaf fall) are the only two possible planting times. Restricted availability. Some species may not be available bare root, and some nurseries may not have trees available for bare root retail sale at all. What are the best techniques to follow for such tree planting? Use any technique you can to reduce the time the tree roots are bare. Order 1.5-2" trees to be dug within 24 hours of their arrival; otherwise, be sure they are stored in a cool place. Have fall trees dug mid-October to late November; spring trees late March to early May. If possible, dip tree roots in a slurry of a hydrogel (a synthetic water-absorbing compound; many brands available) or muddy water, then store them in large, pleated plastic bags until planting. If no hydrogel is used, soak the tree roots in water for 12-24 hours before planting. Keep trees covered, shaded, and moist until actually put in the ground. Can all tree species be planted in this way? In theory, yes--but some species work better than others, and some commonly fail.
Helping You Put Knowledge to Work Cornell Cooperative Extension provides equal program and employment opportunities. NYS College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, NYS College of Human Ecology, and NYS College of Veterinary Medicine at Cornell University, Cooperative Extension associations, county governing bodies, and U.S. Department of Agriculture, cooper-
Bare Root Tree Planting—Page 2 Best bets for bare root planting: ash (Fraxinus spp.) crabapple (Malus spp.) English oak (Quercus robur) hybrid Freeman maple (Acer x fremanii) honeylocust (Gleditsia triacanthos) Japanese tree lilac (Syringa reticulata) linden (Tilia spp.) Shantung maple (Acer truncatum) sugar maple (Acer saccharum) red oak (Quercus rubra)
Not recommended for bare root planting: hawthorn (Crataegus spp.) hornbeam (Carpinus spp.) hackberry (Celtis occidentalis) ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba) shingle oak (Quercus imbricaria) hophornbeam (Ostrya virginiana)
Too Much Mulch Can Kill! Don't mound mulch up against the trunks of trees and shrubs (1). Those volcano-shaped piles may look good to some, but they can kill your trees. Instead, spread the mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep in a circle at least 3 feet in diameter around young trees and shrubs. Then brush away mulch at the center of the circle so that it is several inches from the base of the tree. A slight depression in the centre is OK (2). Think lunar crater—not Mt. Vesuvius. Even if you keep it away from the trunk, spreading mulch deeper than 4 inches can create shallow, vulnerable root systems. As your trees grow, extend the mulch to their dripline (the edge of the canopy) (3). Trees benefit more from this kind of extensive mulching. You're not doing them any favors by piling it higher and deeper.
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3
This publication may contain pesticide recommendations. Changes in pesticide regulations occur constantly and human errors are still possible. Some materials mentioned may no longer be available, and some uses may no longer be legal. All pesticides distributed, sold or applied in New York State must be registered with the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation (NYSDEC). Questions concerning the legality and/or registration status for pesticide use in New York State should be directed to the appropriate Cornell Cooperative Extension Specialist or your regional NYSDEC office. Read the label before applying any pesticide. DISCLAIMER: Please note that neither Cornell Cooperative Extension of Oneida County nor any representative thereof makes any representation of any warranty, express or implied, of any particular result or application of the information provided by us or regarding any product. If a product is involved, it is the sole responsibility of the User to read and follow all product labeling instructions and to check with the manufacturer or supplier for the most recent information. Nothing contained in this information should be interpreted as an express or implied endorsement of any particular product or criticism of unnamed products. With respect to any information on pest management, the User is responsible for obtaining the most up-to-date pest management information. The information we provide is no substitute for pesticide labeling. The User is solely responsible for reading and following the manufacturer’s labeling and instructions. (October 2009) Updated: 2011 lsk12 Source: http://www.umass.edu/urbantree/factsheets/24bareroottreeplanting.html http://www.google.com/imgres?q=planting+bare+root+trees+DEC&um=1&hl=en&sa=N&biw=1280&bih=878&tbm=isch&tbnid=Z_aH26k5w2rKM:&imgrefurl=http://ogdenbotanicalgardens.blogspot.com/2012/03/question-of-week-planting-bareroot.html&docid=VLmYNuCZDH4haM&imgurl=http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5Zq_yXKX4GM/T1Tq7ljuFcI/AAAAAAAACNs/SskX7w-25U/s1600/fig1-planting.jpg&w=650&h=387&ei=zYtjUIXDajx0gHXg4DgBA&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=559&vpy=61&dur=22&hovh=173&hovw=291&tx=176&ty=121&sig=110980608615354 765708&page=2&tbnh=127&tbnw=213&start=21&ndsp=25&ved=1t:429,r:12,s:21,i:183 Source: http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/factsheets/mulch/toomuch.html
HOME GROWN FACTS 121 Second Street, Oriskany, NY 13424-9799 (315) 736-3394 or (315) 337-2531 FAX: (315) 736-2580
Bare Root Tree Planting What does that mean? Bare root trees are trees that are dug and stored without any soil around their roots. Trees can be bought "bare root," and then planted directly into the ground. What are the advantages of planting bare root trees? More root mass. Bare root trees can have up to 200% more roots than B&B (balled and burlapped) or container trees, depending on the soil and transplanting history at the nursery. Lower cost. Without extra labor and materials, bare root trees cost seller and buyer less. Easier planting. A young tree without soil weighs little, so it easy to move and plant. There must be some disadvantages! Less work time. Once they leave the nursery, bare root trees need to get in the ground within a week at the longest. With no soil, the roots can dry out and die if left exposed for any time. Narrower planting window. Bare root trees need good soil moisture, so mid-spring (before budbreak) and mid-fall (after leaf fall) are the only two possible planting times. Restricted availability. Some species may not be available bare root, and some nurseries may not have trees available for bare root retail sale at all. What are the best techniques to follow for such tree planting? Use any technique you can to reduce the time the tree roots are bare. Order 1.5-2" trees to be dug within 24 hours of their arrival; otherwise, be sure they are stored in a cool place. Have fall trees dug mid-October to late November; spring trees late March to early May. If possible, dip tree roots in a slurry of a hydrogel (a synthetic water-absorbing compound; many brands available) or muddy water, then store them in large, pleated plastic bags until planting. If no hydrogel is used, soak the tree roots in water for 12-24 hours before planting. Keep trees covered, shaded, and moist until actually put in the ground. Can all tree species be planted in this way? In theory, yes--but some species work better than others, and some commonly fail.
Helping You Put Knowledge to Work Cornell Cooperative Extension provides equal program and employment opportunities. NYS College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, NYS College of Human Ecology, and NYS College of Veterinary Medicine at Cornell University, Cooperative Extension associations, county governing bodies, and U.S. Department of Agriculture, cooper-
Bare Root Tree Planting—Page 2 Best bets for bare root planting: ash (Fraxinus spp.) crabapple (Malus spp.) English oak (Quercus robur) hybrid Freeman maple (Acer x fremanii) honeylocust (Gleditsia triacanthos) Japanese tree lilac (Syringa reticulata) linden (Tilia spp.) Shantung maple (Acer truncatum) sugar maple (Acer saccharum) red oak (Quercus rubra)
Not recommended for bare root planting: hawthorn (Crataegus spp.) hornbeam (Carpinus spp.) hackberry (Celtis occidentalis) ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba) shingle oak (Quercus imbricaria) hophornbeam (Ostrya virginiana)
Too Much Mulch Can Kill! Don't mound mulch up against the trunks of trees and shrubs (1). Those volcano-shaped piles may look good to some, but they can kill your trees. Instead, spread the mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep in a circle at least 3 feet in diameter around young trees and shrubs. Then brush away mulch at the center of the circle so that it is several inches from the base of the tree. A slight depression in the centre is OK (2). Think lunar crater—not Mt. Vesuvius. Even if you keep it away from the trunk, spreading mulch deeper than 4 inches can create shallow, vulnerable root systems. As your trees grow, extend the mulch to their dripline (the edge of the canopy) (3). Trees benefit more from this kind of extensive mulching. You're not doing them any favors by piling it higher and deeper.
1
2
3
This publication may contain pesticide recommendations. Changes in pesticide regulations occur constantly and human errors are still possible. Some materials mentioned may no longer be available, and some uses may no longer be legal. All pesticides distributed, sold or applied in New York State must be registered with the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation (NYSDEC). Questions concerning the legality and/or registration status for pesticide use in New York State should be directed to the appropriate Cornell Cooperative Extension Specialist or your regional NYSDEC office. Read the label before applying any pesticide. DISCLAIMER: Please note that neither Cornell Cooperative Extension of Oneida County nor any representative thereof makes any representation of any warranty, express or implied, of any particular result or application of the information provided by us or regarding any product. If a product is involved, it is the sole responsibility of the User to read and follow all product labeling instructions and to check with the manufacturer or supplier for the most recent information. Nothing contained in this information should be interpreted as an express or implied endorsement of any particular product or criticism of unnamed products. With respect to any information on pest management, the User is responsible for obtaining the most up-to-date pest management information. The information we provide is no substitute for pesticide labeling. The User is solely responsible for reading and following the manufacturer’s labeling and instructions. (October 2009) Updated: 2011 lsk12 Source: http://www.umass.edu/urbantree/factsheets/24bareroottreeplanting.html http://www.google.com/imgres?q=planting+bare+root+trees+DEC&um=1&hl=en&sa=N&biw=1280&bih=878&tbm=isch&tbnid=Z_aH26k5w2rKM:&imgrefurl=http://ogdenbotanicalgardens.blogspot.com/2012/03/question-of-week-planting-bareroot.html&docid=VLmYNuCZDH4haM&imgurl=http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5Zq_yXKX4GM/T1Tq7ljuFcI/AAAAAAAACNs/SskX7w-25U/s1600/fig1-planting.jpg&w=650&h=387&ei=zYtjUIXDajx0gHXg4DgBA&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=559&vpy=61&dur=22&hovh=173&hovw=291&tx=176&ty=121&sig=110980608615354 765708&page=2&tbnh=127&tbnw=213&start=21&ndsp=25&ved=1t:429,r:12,s:21,i:183 Source: http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/factsheets/mulch/toomuch.html
