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GO OUTBOUND ABROAD VIEW
WALKING ON
SUNSHINE
Swim with turtles, catch a wave, cook a meal with the locals, take a stroll down the streets or simply lie in a hammock with a book…the Maldives beyond the glitzy resort islands is a whole new world waiting to be explored.
I
By HARINI SRIRAM
22
Maldives.indd 22-23
’m frantically looking for Nafiz. Just a while ago, I’d jumped off a speedboat in the middle of a rough and angry Indian Ocean, clutching his hand a little too tightly. It’s a windy afternoon, and the strong ocean current tugs at me, as I blob along on its choppy waters with my snorkelling gear on. After a few nervous seconds of kicking about, I peer into the beautiful blue world to gape in wonder as schools of surgeonfish and clownfish swim past, unperturbed by my looming presence. In the distance, Nafiz, the owner of our guesthouse on the island, emerges out of the water grinning, with a giant octopus in his hand. Welcome to the Maldives, I tell myself.
Selling World Travel March - April 2016
March - April 2016 Selling World Travel
23
25/02/16 7:32 pm
While the country spells luxury and attracts resort-lovers, it is still
PICTURE PERFECT I couldn’t have asked for a better way to make my acquaintance with this island nation. After all, its crystal clear waters and rich marine life make it the paradise that it is. It takes time to get used to the beauty of the Maldives; it’s straight out of a Windows desktop wallpaper, it looks Photoshopped like one of those heavily filtered Instagram images, so everywhere you look, there’s something clickworthy. Except that we have chosen to leave our camera behind, thanks to the unpredictable weather. The water here is unreal, with shades of azure, emerald, turquoise and cobalt blue. Perfectly arched coconut trees sway ever so gently to the rhythm of the ocean breeze. Hermit crabs flit about on the immaculate white sands and the water is so clear, you can spot corals and fish even as you stand by the shore and peep in. For someone accustomed to overcrowded beaches with murky brown waters, this is the stuff of dreams. PARADISE ON A BUDGET The Maldives may not be your first choice if you are looking for a budget holiday, especially around New Year’s, but we were crazy
24
Maldives.indd 24-25
Selling World Travel March - April 2016
enough to believe we could pull it off. “Good luck finding budget accommodation in the Maldives,” our friends sniggered when we told them about our grand plan. While the country spells luxury and attracts honeymooners and resort-lovers alike, it is still possible to enjoy what the island nation has to offer without stretching your budget. To do that, though, you need to look beyond the ubiquitous water bungalows and high-end resorts, skip the resort islands for the local inhabited ones, give sea plane transfers or speed boats a miss and board the supremely efficient public ferry…you get the drift. You need not necessarily rough it out or stay in dingy rooms, but with some planning and research, you’ll get to experience the country like few people do and explore islands that most tourists have no clue about. INTRODUCING HURAA We skip the luxurious resort islands to spend a blissful week at Kuda Huraa, a tiny land mass inhabited by less than 1,000 people. About an hour and 10 minutes away by the public ferry from Male, this little island is an entire package in itself. Just off the island is Four
possible to enjoy what the island nation has to offer, without stretching your budget
QUICK INFO Capital: Male, Language: Dhivehi or Maldivian How to get there: Spicejet, Air India and Maldivian operate direct flights to Male from Chennai, Kochi and Thiruvananthapuram, among others places. How to get around: Use the public ferry (check timings and connectivity) or check with your accommodation for speed boat transfers. Within Male, you’ll find taxis. Climate: Tropical weather all year round . Currency Value: 1 Maldivian rufiyaa is `4.43, Dialling Code: +960 Embassy: High Commission Of The Republic of Maldives, B-2, Anand Niketan, New Delhi–110021 Emergency Contacts: Police –119, Ambulance –102, Fire –118 Time Difference: Maldives Time (MVT) is UTC + 5 hours Accommodation: Hotel Octave (http://www.hotel-octave-maldives. com/), Male; Seashine Guesthouse (http://www.maldivesseashine. com/), Huraa; Shadow Palm Hotel (www.booking.com/hotel/mv/ shadow-palm.html), Maafushi
Seasons resort, and Club Med Kani, another uber luxury resort, is a quick boat ride away. Our home in Huraa, however, is a delightful little guesthouse with clean, spacious air-conditioned rooms and friendly staff. The island has two restaurants—one catering to locals and the other with a more international menu, where waiters wear bow ties. There’s a school, a supermarket, a mosque, about three to four guesthouses and a handful of souvenir shops near the jetty; you can walk the entire length and breadth of the island, every one of its streets, in 10 minutes flat. If you want to avoid walking at all costs, hop on a beach buggy. There’s even a lake and a thick mangrove forest. However, the best part about staying on an island this small is that you are never far from the sea, which is where all the action happens. Huraa has two picture-perfect beaches, clearly demarcated as local and tourist alcoves; we suggest you swim and sunbathe in the tourist stretch or the ‘bikini beach,’ to avoid offending the locals. FUN IN THE SUN Like most islands in the Maldives, Huraa also offers several opportunities if you want to go scuba diving, turtle spotting, March - April 2016 Selling World Travel
25
25/02/16 7:32 pm
dolphin watching, snorkelling or make day trips to smaller islands and sand banks. You just have to speak to the owner of the guesthouse you’re put up at and they’ll coordinate it for you at a reasonable price. You can negotiate rates too, but leave your cityhoned aggression behind and ask nicely. Being an Islamic country, alcohol is prohibited all over the Maldives, except in the resorts. So while you cannot drink on any of the local islands, including the capital, Male, you can always take a day pass to visit any of the luxury resorts in the vicinity. This pass gives non-guests a chance to tour the resort, have meals and access to the bar and indulge in water sports for a fixed number of hours; the pass is priced upwards of US$100 per person. Make sure you check in advance. PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK; PAOLO MAGGIORE; MANICKAVEL & HARINI SRIRAM
ISLAND HOPPING To experience local culture, you could stop by at some of the many inhabited islands of the Maldives strewn across the Indian Ocean. Mahibadhoo, Thulusdhoo, Himmafushi and Maafushi are some options you can consider if you want a different perspective of the country. Most of these islands have decent guesthouses and restaurants where you can sample Maldivian cuisine at the same rates that the locals pay. Stroll down the streets and soak in the laidback vibe of these remote islands, learn to surf and catch crabs and have barbecue nights with your hosts and new friends. Many of these islands have only recently been thrown open to tourists, so while the facilities may not be state of the art, the places are usually clean and well-maintained, and the service, though slow, is warm and friendly. To make your trip smoother, check for public ferry timings and connectivity beforehand, and dress modestly (cover your shoulders and knees). If your island is not serviced by the ferry, get your transfers sorted before getting there. BUSTLING MALE The capital is a densely packed island with shiny monstrous buildings and a busy market. Drop by the fish and vegetable market
26
Maldives.indd 26-27
Selling World Travel March - April 2016
where you can pick up fresh catch and bounty, a candy made of coconut and jaggery. The Male Friday Mosque is another key attraction here apart from the National Museum. Just five minutes away by ferry is the green island of Villingili, where motor vehicles are banned. Cycle around the island and take in its clean, crisp air. The airport island, Hulhulmale, is again just a 10-minute ferry ride away from Male. FOOD You are in seafood heaven, so ensure you gorge on fish—tuna, in particular. Mas roshi is roti served with shredded tuna and scraped coconut, a standard breakfast in these parts. Try the kottu roshi, a Sri Lankan dish with broken flat bread, tuna and spices, that’s available at most restaurants here. Wash it down with kurumba, tender coconut water, and boakiba, a sweet made of rice, coconut milk and topped with caramelised onions. A lot of restaurants, cafés and guesthouses accept dollars, so you don’t necessarily have to carry Maldivian currency on you everywhere. FRIENDLY FOLKS The Maldives may be one of the most picturesque countries in the world, but what makes it even more appealing, especially if you are a budget traveller who likes interacting with the locals, is its friendly people. They always sport a smile and go out of their way to help you; if you’re on one of the smaller islands, you’d get invited to their homes for a meal. Nafiz’s wife speaks to me about Bollywood, about how she wants to holiday in the snowclad mountains of Kashmir and visit waterfalls and forests in South India. Behind us, we hear the gentle lull of the ocean, the sky is now a fiery purple, and we’re sprawled on the sands by the beach, sharing stories and exchanging recipes. To me, this is reaffirmation that you don’t have to splurge to have a good time, and it’s moments like these that I cherish while travelling. It’s also why I would return to the Maldives someday. March - April 2016 Selling World Travel
27
25/02/16 7:32 pm
WALKING ON
SUNSHINE
Swim with turtles, catch a wave, cook a meal with the locals, take a stroll down the streets or simply lie in a hammock with a book…the Maldives beyond the glitzy resort islands is a whole new world waiting to be explored.
I
By HARINI SRIRAM
22
Maldives.indd 22-23
’m frantically looking for Nafiz. Just a while ago, I’d jumped off a speedboat in the middle of a rough and angry Indian Ocean, clutching his hand a little too tightly. It’s a windy afternoon, and the strong ocean current tugs at me, as I blob along on its choppy waters with my snorkelling gear on. After a few nervous seconds of kicking about, I peer into the beautiful blue world to gape in wonder as schools of surgeonfish and clownfish swim past, unperturbed by my looming presence. In the distance, Nafiz, the owner of our guesthouse on the island, emerges out of the water grinning, with a giant octopus in his hand. Welcome to the Maldives, I tell myself.
Selling World Travel March - April 2016
March - April 2016 Selling World Travel
23
25/02/16 7:32 pm
While the country spells luxury and attracts resort-lovers, it is still
PICTURE PERFECT I couldn’t have asked for a better way to make my acquaintance with this island nation. After all, its crystal clear waters and rich marine life make it the paradise that it is. It takes time to get used to the beauty of the Maldives; it’s straight out of a Windows desktop wallpaper, it looks Photoshopped like one of those heavily filtered Instagram images, so everywhere you look, there’s something clickworthy. Except that we have chosen to leave our camera behind, thanks to the unpredictable weather. The water here is unreal, with shades of azure, emerald, turquoise and cobalt blue. Perfectly arched coconut trees sway ever so gently to the rhythm of the ocean breeze. Hermit crabs flit about on the immaculate white sands and the water is so clear, you can spot corals and fish even as you stand by the shore and peep in. For someone accustomed to overcrowded beaches with murky brown waters, this is the stuff of dreams. PARADISE ON A BUDGET The Maldives may not be your first choice if you are looking for a budget holiday, especially around New Year’s, but we were crazy
24
Maldives.indd 24-25
Selling World Travel March - April 2016
enough to believe we could pull it off. “Good luck finding budget accommodation in the Maldives,” our friends sniggered when we told them about our grand plan. While the country spells luxury and attracts honeymooners and resort-lovers alike, it is still possible to enjoy what the island nation has to offer without stretching your budget. To do that, though, you need to look beyond the ubiquitous water bungalows and high-end resorts, skip the resort islands for the local inhabited ones, give sea plane transfers or speed boats a miss and board the supremely efficient public ferry…you get the drift. You need not necessarily rough it out or stay in dingy rooms, but with some planning and research, you’ll get to experience the country like few people do and explore islands that most tourists have no clue about. INTRODUCING HURAA We skip the luxurious resort islands to spend a blissful week at Kuda Huraa, a tiny land mass inhabited by less than 1,000 people. About an hour and 10 minutes away by the public ferry from Male, this little island is an entire package in itself. Just off the island is Four
possible to enjoy what the island nation has to offer, without stretching your budget
QUICK INFO Capital: Male, Language: Dhivehi or Maldivian How to get there: Spicejet, Air India and Maldivian operate direct flights to Male from Chennai, Kochi and Thiruvananthapuram, among others places. How to get around: Use the public ferry (check timings and connectivity) or check with your accommodation for speed boat transfers. Within Male, you’ll find taxis. Climate: Tropical weather all year round . Currency Value: 1 Maldivian rufiyaa is `4.43, Dialling Code: +960 Embassy: High Commission Of The Republic of Maldives, B-2, Anand Niketan, New Delhi–110021 Emergency Contacts: Police –119, Ambulance –102, Fire –118 Time Difference: Maldives Time (MVT) is UTC + 5 hours Accommodation: Hotel Octave (http://www.hotel-octave-maldives. com/), Male; Seashine Guesthouse (http://www.maldivesseashine. com/), Huraa; Shadow Palm Hotel (www.booking.com/hotel/mv/ shadow-palm.html), Maafushi
Seasons resort, and Club Med Kani, another uber luxury resort, is a quick boat ride away. Our home in Huraa, however, is a delightful little guesthouse with clean, spacious air-conditioned rooms and friendly staff. The island has two restaurants—one catering to locals and the other with a more international menu, where waiters wear bow ties. There’s a school, a supermarket, a mosque, about three to four guesthouses and a handful of souvenir shops near the jetty; you can walk the entire length and breadth of the island, every one of its streets, in 10 minutes flat. If you want to avoid walking at all costs, hop on a beach buggy. There’s even a lake and a thick mangrove forest. However, the best part about staying on an island this small is that you are never far from the sea, which is where all the action happens. Huraa has two picture-perfect beaches, clearly demarcated as local and tourist alcoves; we suggest you swim and sunbathe in the tourist stretch or the ‘bikini beach,’ to avoid offending the locals. FUN IN THE SUN Like most islands in the Maldives, Huraa also offers several opportunities if you want to go scuba diving, turtle spotting, March - April 2016 Selling World Travel
25
25/02/16 7:32 pm
dolphin watching, snorkelling or make day trips to smaller islands and sand banks. You just have to speak to the owner of the guesthouse you’re put up at and they’ll coordinate it for you at a reasonable price. You can negotiate rates too, but leave your cityhoned aggression behind and ask nicely. Being an Islamic country, alcohol is prohibited all over the Maldives, except in the resorts. So while you cannot drink on any of the local islands, including the capital, Male, you can always take a day pass to visit any of the luxury resorts in the vicinity. This pass gives non-guests a chance to tour the resort, have meals and access to the bar and indulge in water sports for a fixed number of hours; the pass is priced upwards of US$100 per person. Make sure you check in advance. PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK; PAOLO MAGGIORE; MANICKAVEL & HARINI SRIRAM
ISLAND HOPPING To experience local culture, you could stop by at some of the many inhabited islands of the Maldives strewn across the Indian Ocean. Mahibadhoo, Thulusdhoo, Himmafushi and Maafushi are some options you can consider if you want a different perspective of the country. Most of these islands have decent guesthouses and restaurants where you can sample Maldivian cuisine at the same rates that the locals pay. Stroll down the streets and soak in the laidback vibe of these remote islands, learn to surf and catch crabs and have barbecue nights with your hosts and new friends. Many of these islands have only recently been thrown open to tourists, so while the facilities may not be state of the art, the places are usually clean and well-maintained, and the service, though slow, is warm and friendly. To make your trip smoother, check for public ferry timings and connectivity beforehand, and dress modestly (cover your shoulders and knees). If your island is not serviced by the ferry, get your transfers sorted before getting there. BUSTLING MALE The capital is a densely packed island with shiny monstrous buildings and a busy market. Drop by the fish and vegetable market
26
Maldives.indd 26-27
Selling World Travel March - April 2016
where you can pick up fresh catch and bounty, a candy made of coconut and jaggery. The Male Friday Mosque is another key attraction here apart from the National Museum. Just five minutes away by ferry is the green island of Villingili, where motor vehicles are banned. Cycle around the island and take in its clean, crisp air. The airport island, Hulhulmale, is again just a 10-minute ferry ride away from Male. FOOD You are in seafood heaven, so ensure you gorge on fish—tuna, in particular. Mas roshi is roti served with shredded tuna and scraped coconut, a standard breakfast in these parts. Try the kottu roshi, a Sri Lankan dish with broken flat bread, tuna and spices, that’s available at most restaurants here. Wash it down with kurumba, tender coconut water, and boakiba, a sweet made of rice, coconut milk and topped with caramelised onions. A lot of restaurants, cafés and guesthouses accept dollars, so you don’t necessarily have to carry Maldivian currency on you everywhere. FRIENDLY FOLKS The Maldives may be one of the most picturesque countries in the world, but what makes it even more appealing, especially if you are a budget traveller who likes interacting with the locals, is its friendly people. They always sport a smile and go out of their way to help you; if you’re on one of the smaller islands, you’d get invited to their homes for a meal. Nafiz’s wife speaks to me about Bollywood, about how she wants to holiday in the snowclad mountains of Kashmir and visit waterfalls and forests in South India. Behind us, we hear the gentle lull of the ocean, the sky is now a fiery purple, and we’re sprawled on the sands by the beach, sharing stories and exchanging recipes. To me, this is reaffirmation that you don’t have to splurge to have a good time, and it’s moments like these that I cherish while travelling. It’s also why I would return to the Maldives someday. March - April 2016 Selling World Travel
27
25/02/16 7:32 pm
