Eastern Barnard and upper Tittmann Glacier, climbs and exploration ...
Eastern Barnard and upper T ittm ann Glacier, climbs and exploration. O n M ay 3 Paul Claus flew us from the U ltim a T hule Lodge to a 10,500' base cam p at the head o f the eastern branch o f the B arnard Glacier, five miles south o f M t. Bear. We were Brad Gessner, H ans Neidig, S tuart Parks, W ayne Todd, Jeannie Wall, C arrie W ang, and I. O ver the next seven days, o u r gro u p sum m ited several peaks: Peak 12,382' (“W etterh o rn ”), east ridge, new route (2nd peak ascent, en tire party ), AK grade 2. P oint 11,500', southw est slopes (en tire p arty ) an d Peak 11,570', n o rth e a st slopes, first ascent (H art-W all; repeated by G essner-N eidig-Parks-T odd-W ang), AK grade 1. Peak 12,850', southw est ram p, new route (G essner-Parks-Todd-W ang; repeated by H artNeidig-W all), AK grade 1. Peak 12,007', southw est slopes, first ascent (entire party, AK grade 2). Peak 12,850', traverse via west ridge over Point 12,410' (5th ascent, H art-W all, new route, 13 pitches, 50° snow /ice). Paul Claus, Ruedi H o m berger, C h ristin e Kopp, Peter Stadler, an d Stefan Wyss had p re viously spent tim e in this area, m ak in g first ascents o f Peak 12,382' in 1996 (R uedi and Paul have clarified th a t this is th e “ 13,000' b o rd e r peak ju st so u th o f M t. Bear,” as referenced on p.
185 o f the 1997 AAJ; they called it “W e tte rh o r n ” ) a n d Peak 12,850' in 1994 (C laus solo). O n M ay 12 Jeannie, W ayne, C arrie, a n d I flew to a new base cam p th ree m iles so u th at 8,500' o n th e u p p e r T ittm a n n G lacier, a sp o t w here Paul C laus h ad n o t p re v io u sly la n d e d . We re a c h e d 11,000' on th e southw est ridge o f u n c lim b e d Peak 11,610', b efo re w eath er tu rn e d us back. S to rm s co n tin u e d u n til Paul re tu rn e d for us on M ay 17. Several m o re u n clim b ed peaks in this area beckon, in clu d in g th e challenging Peaks 11,610' an d 11,050', the striking Peak 10,455', an d w alkup Peak 10,385'. D ave H a r t ,
A AC and M ountaineering Club o f Alaska
185 o f the 1997 AAJ; they called it “W e tte rh o r n ” ) a n d Peak 12,850' in 1994 (C laus solo). O n M ay 12 Jeannie, W ayne, C arrie, a n d I flew to a new base cam p th ree m iles so u th at 8,500' o n th e u p p e r T ittm a n n G lacier, a sp o t w here Paul C laus h ad n o t p re v io u sly la n d e d . We re a c h e d 11,000' on th e southw est ridge o f u n c lim b e d Peak 11,610', b efo re w eath er tu rn e d us back. S to rm s co n tin u e d u n til Paul re tu rn e d for us on M ay 17. Several m o re u n clim b ed peaks in this area beckon, in clu d in g th e challenging Peaks 11,610' an d 11,050', the striking Peak 10,455', an d w alkup Peak 10,385'. D ave H a r t ,
A AC and M ountaineering Club o f Alaska
