Flying to Pieces Zipper Pouch
Flying to Pieces Zipper Pouch (Large & Jumbo Size) These in-‐the-‐hoop zipper pouches are PERFECT for organizing all those small items! They would also make a great gift for that hard to buy for person on your list! They stitch out with perfect little points and have a nice tailored look! You’ll want to use all those yummy small bits of fabric from your stash! I’d love to see how your Flying to Pieces Zipper Pouches turn out! You can post pictures on my Facebook page (www.facebook.com/KimberbellDesigns) or share on Instagram with the hashtags: #kimberbelldesigns and #kimberbellmetime. Thank you for your support!
-Kim Christopherson Kimberbell Designs Materials Needed – LARGE:
Materials Needed – JUMBO:
Note: A Fat Quarter is 18 x 21”. A Fat Eighth is 9 x 21”. HOOP: 7x12 hoop (Embroidery Field Needed: 6.69 x 11.75)
Note: A Fat Quarter is 18 x 21”. A Fat Eighth is 9 x 21”.
STABILIZER: Mesh Cut-‐away Stabilizer
STABILIZER: Mesh Cut-‐away Stabilizer
Fabric 1: (borders & back) 1 Fat Quarter Fabric 2: (background fabric) 1 Fat Eighth Fabric 3: (lining) 1 Fat Quarter Fabrics 4-‐8: (flying geese) (5) 5 ¼ x 3” each Other: Zipper (14” length) (non-‐metal teeth) Tape (a low-‐tack tape is best, such as washi tape or paper tape) Batting: (8 ½ x 13 ½”)
HOOP: 8x14 hoop (Embroidery Field Needed: 7.74 x 14)
Fabric 1: (borders & back) 1 Fat Quarter Fabric 2: (background fabric) 1 Fat Eighth Fabric 3: (lining) 1 Fat Quarter Fabrics 4-‐8: (flying geese) (5) 6 ¼ x 3 ½” each Other: Zipper (16” length) (non-‐metal teeth) Tape (a low-‐tack tape is best, such as washi tape or paper tape) Batting (9 ½ x 16 ½”)
© 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
1
“Flying to Pieces” Zipper Pouch Since both sizes of the zipper pouch incorporate the same method for piecing, as well as how the bag comes together, I will just show the step-‐by-‐steps for one of the pouches. Follow the cutting charts below for the specific size pouch you are making. Fabric 1 (borders & back) Fabric 2
Fabric 3
(lining: not shown in photo since it is inside the pouch)
(background)
Fabrics 4-‐8 (“flying geese”)
Cut the Following:
Reference this diagram to know where each cut piece will be placed. The outline of this will actually be stitched onto your batting, as described in embroidery instructions.
Zipper Pouch LARGE
JUMBO Zipper Pouch
From Fabric 1 : Cut (1) 13 x 8” block (outside backing piece) Cut (2) 13 x 2 ½” strips (border pieces 10 & 11) Cut (1) 13 x 1 ½” strip (border piece 8) Cut (2) 5 ¼ x 1 ½” strips (border pieces 6 & 7) From Fabric 2 : Cut (10) 3 ¾ x 2 ¼” strips (pieces B & C) From Fabric 3 : Cut (1) 13 x 8” block (lining back) Cut (1) 13 x 8” block (lining below zipper) Cut (1) 13 x 2 ½” block (lining above zipper) From Fabrics 4 -‐8: You should have (1) 5 ¼ x 3” block from each fabric for a total of 5 blocks (piece A)
From Fabric 1 : Cut (1) 16 x 9” block (outside backing piece) Cut (2) 16 x 2 ½” strips (border pieces 10 & 11) Cut (1) 16 x 1 ½” strip (border piece 8) Cut (2) 6 ½ x 1 ½” strips (border pieces 6 & 7) From Fabric 2 : Cut (10) 4 ½ x 2 ¾” strips (pieces B & C)
From Fabric 3 : Cut (1) 16 x 9” block (lining back) Cut (1) 16 x 9” block (lining below zipper) Cut (1) 16 x 2 ½” block (lining above zipper) From Fabrics 4 -‐8: You should have (1) 6 ¼ x 3 ½” block from each fabric for a total of 5 blocks (piece A)
© 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
2
Here’s What You Have After Cutting:
FABRIC 1
FABRIC 2
FABRIC 3
FABRICS 4-‐8
BATTING & ZIPPER
© 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
3
Embroider the Following: 1. Hoop cut-‐away stabilizer in appropriate-‐sized hoop. 2. Stitch the first step: the placement line for the batting. Place the oversized piece of batting on top of the stabilizer; make sure the placement line box is completely covered. Note: All stitching will be done on top of the batting. Do not cut the batting until the final step. 3. Stitch the next step: the flying geese piecing template. Note: A full size template is also included on this disk for your reference, but it is not necessary for completing the zipper pouch.
1.
4. Lay a piece of fabric (any from Fabrics 4-‐8) on top of section 1A. The fabric will be facing right side up.
2.
3.
4.
Section
1A
1A
© 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
4
5.
5. Stitch the next step: the trimming/placement line (as indicated with the black, dashed line in photo). The machine will stop. 6. Trim the fabric close to the stitch line. 7. Lay piece 1B right side down, centered along the line that was stitched in Step 5. 8. Stitch the next step: the seam stitch for pieces A & B. (as indicated with the black, dashed line in photo.) 9. Flip and press piece 1B right side up.
6.
Kim’s Tip: You can finger press, or use a mini craft iron to press along the seam line. This will help create crisp points and eliminate bubbling in your fabric.
7.
8.
ng wro of e sid 1B ce e Pi
9.
ng wro of e sid 1B ce Pie
) on t (fr T H f RIG ide o s 1B ce Pie
© 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
5
10. Stitch the next step: the trimming/placement line stitch for piece 1C (as indicated with the dashed, black line in the photo). 11. Trim the fabric close to the stitch line.
10.
11.
12. Lay piece 1C right side down, centered along the line stitched in Step 10. 13. Stitch the next step: the seam stitch for pieces A & C. 14. Flip and press piece 1C right side up. ng side 1C ro w f Piece o
12.
13.
14.
) nt fro t ( of gh e C Ri sid ce 1 e Pi
ng ro f w e o 1C sid ce e Pi
© 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
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15. Stitch the next step: the trimming/placement line for piece 2A. 16. Trim the fabric close to the stitch line. 17. Lay piece 2A right side down, centered along the line stitched in Step 15. 18. Stitch the next step: the seam stitch for piece 2.
15.
16.
17.
18.
Section
2A
2A
19.
19. Flip and press piece 2A right side up. © 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
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20. Stitch the next step: the trimming/placement line for piece 2B. 21. Trim the fabric close to the stitch line. 22. Lay piece 2B right side down, centered along the line stitched in Step 20. 23. Stitch the next step: the seam stitch for pieces A & B. 24. Flip and press piece 2B right side up.
20.
21.
23.
22.
24.
© 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
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25. Stitch the next step: the trimming/placement line for piece 2C. 26. Trim the fabric close to the stitch line.
25.
26.
27. Lay piece 2C right side down, centered along the line stitched in Step 25. 28. Stitch the next step: the seam stitch for pieces A & C. 29. Flip and press piece 2C right side up.
27.
28.
29.
30. Continue following the above steps for the next three flying geese blocks. © 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
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31. After completing the flying geese, you will sew on the borders. Sew the next stitch: the trimming/placement line for piece 6. 32. Trim the fabric close to the stitch line. (not pictured) 33. Lay piece 6 right side down, along the line stitched in Step 31.
31.
33.
34. Stitch the next step: the seam stitch for piece 6. (not pictured) 35. Flip and press piece 6 right side up. 36. Stitch the next step: the trimming/placement line for piece 7. 37. Trim the fabric close to the stitch line. (not pictured) 38. Lay piece 7 right side down, along the line stitched in Step 36.
35.
36.
38.
© 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
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39. Stitch the next step: the seam stitch for piece 7. (not pictured) 40. Flip and press piece 7 right side up. It’s at this point that I like to remove the hoop from the machine and give it a good pressing with an iron. 41. Stitch the next step: the trimming/placement line for piece 8. 42. Trim the fabric close to the stitch line. 43. Lay piece 8 right side down, along the line stitched in Step 41.
40.
41.
42.
43.
44. Stitch the next step: the seam stitch for piece 8. (not pictured) 45. Flip and press piece 8 right side up. Again, this is a good time to press this seam with an iron.
45.
© 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
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46. Stitch the next step: the trimming/placement line for piece 10. 47. Trim the excess fabric, but do not place piece 10 at this time. 48. Stitch the next step: the zipper placement stitch. 49. Carefully trim the batting from inside the box. Do not cut through the stabilizer. “open end” of zipper box
46.
48.
47.
49.
© 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
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50. Tape the zipper in place, making sure the zipper pull and the zipper stop are outside of the box and will not be under the needle. The open end of the box is the direction your zipper pull should be on. (The light blue boxes in the photographs indicate where to place tape.) Kim’s Tip on Using Tape: Since the needle is going through the tape, it is best to use a low-‐ tack type of tape such as washi tape or paper tape. If you do not have those, or feel that those are still “too tacky”, you can eliminate some of that stickiness by first placing the tape on another piece of cloth (even your own clothing!) and then put the tape on your project. Doing this will leave a few “fuzzies” from the cloth or clothing, and help to take away the stickiness that can sometimes gum up your needle. It will be easier to tear away, as well!
50.
50.
51. Stitch the next step: the zipper tack down stitch (indicated with the dashed white line in photo). Remove tape.
52. Wrong sides together, iron pieces 10 & 11 (from Fabric 1) in half -‐-‐ the long way -‐-‐ making sure you get a nice crisp fold.
51.
52.
© 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
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54.
raw edge
folded edge
53.
53. Place the raw edge of piece 10 on the previously stitched trimming/placement stitch line (see Step 47) making sure you center the piece of fabric on the line. 54. Stitch the next step: the seam stitch for piece 10. (Kim’s Tip: You may want to hold piece 10 in place as it stitches the line, so that it doesn’t shift while the machine is moving.) stitched line from Step 47 55. Flip and iron piece 10, so the fold is towards the zipper teeth. Tape the piece in place, so that the fold stays just below the zipper teeth. (The light blue boxes in the photographs indicate where to place tape. Be generous with the tape so you don’t have portions flip up.) 56. Stitch the next step: the tack down stitch. Note: This stitch will be seen in the finished product, so make sure the thread is the desired color. This stitch is also part of the finishing top stitches. A “stop” is placed afterwards in order to verify placement of fabric.
55.
56.
© 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
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Before moving onto the next step, double-‐check your tack down line from Step 56 to be sure the fabric is evenly spaced next to the zipper. If it is where you like it, then remove hoop from machine, remove tape, and move to Step 57. If somehow the fabric shifted while stitching out Step 56 and you would like to re-‐do it, now is the time to carefully remove those stitches and start your machine again on that step. 57. From the underside of the hoop, carefully cut away the stabilizer that is just below the zipper. You will now see the underside of the zipper and zipper teeth. Doing this will help with the placement of the lining and create a nice finished edge. Stabilizer has been
57.
removed from behind the zipper.
58. Take one of the lining pieces (“the lining below the zipper piece”) and iron down 1 inch, in the long direction of the fabric. wrong side of fabric wrong side of fabric
58.
folded 1” edge
© 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
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59. Tape the lining (from Step 58) to the underside of the hoop (this lining piece will be below the zipper; it should completely cover the backside of the flying geese blocks and borders). Line up the fold just below the zipper teeth. This will ensure that the fabric covers the previous line stitched. The “right side” of the fabric should be facing up. (The light blue boxes in the photograph indicate where to place tape. Kim’s Tip: To prevent the tape from “rolling up” under the hoop, I like to adhere the tape onto one edge of the plastic embroidery hoop, to the next.) up-‐close view:
stabilizer
folded edge
folded edge
59.
White lines indicate where the back of the zipper teeth are.
60. Place hoop back into machine. Stitch the next step. It will stitch the tack-‐down line again (same as step 56 above), but this time it will also catch the lining piece. In addition, it will stitch a second finishing stitch across Piece 10, and tack-‐down the entire lining piece.
front view:
back view after step 60:
up-‐close view of the back:
60.
stabilizer
folded edge
back of zipper teeth
© 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
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61. Lay piece 11 with the fold toward the zipper teeth. Line up the fold so that it is even on both sides of the zipper, for a nice finished look. Place tape in a few places to keep fabric from shifting. (See Kim’s Tip for Using Tape on Page 13.) (The light blue boxes in the photographs indicate where to place tape.) 62. Sew the tack down stitch, which, again, is part of the top-‐stitching. A “stop” is placed afterwards in order to verify placement of fabric.
62.
61.
zipper teeth
folded edge
63. With wrong sides together, iron the top lining (the lining fabric that is above the zipper) in half, the long way. 64. Turn over hoop and place the lining fabric on the underside of the hoop. The fold should be toward the zipper teeth. Tape it in place.
64.
63.
fold ed e
dge
© 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
17
65. Place hoop back into machine. Stitch the next step. It will stitch the tack-‐down line again (same as Step 62 above), but it will also catch the lining piece. In addition, it will stitch a second finishing stitch across Piece 11, and tack-‐down the top lining piece that is above the zipper.
65.
66. Open the zipper ¾ of the way. 67. Lay the back piece (Fabric 1) face down on top of the entire bag. Make sure it covers the entire perimeter of the outermost stitch line. The next step will sew down the back of the zipper pouch. 68. Remove hoop from machine and turn over to the underside of the hoop. Place the final lining piece, right side down, making sure it covers the entire box previous stitched. Place tape around the edges to prevent the back piece from shifting during this final step.
67.
wrong side of “backing piece” (Fabric 1)
68.
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69.
69. Stitch the final stitch. This will sew the lining in place, and leaves an opening for turning. 70. Remove tape. Un-‐hoop your project and trim around the entire box, approximately ¼” away from the seam line. Clip corners to reduce the bulk. 71. Turn the bag through the opening in the lining, to expose the inside of the bag. wrong side of “lining piece” (Fabric 3) 72. Hand stitch the opening closed or use hem tape to close the opening.
70.
71.
73. Turn your Flying To Pieces Pouch right side out, through the open zipper and poke out the corners. Press with steam for a nice finished look.
72.
73.
Have Fun! I hope you enjoyed the process of piecing in the hoop with your embroidery machine! Thank you for your purchase of this Kimberbell Designs Machine Embroidery CD! © 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
19
-Kim Christopherson Kimberbell Designs Materials Needed – LARGE:
Materials Needed – JUMBO:
Note: A Fat Quarter is 18 x 21”. A Fat Eighth is 9 x 21”. HOOP: 7x12 hoop (Embroidery Field Needed: 6.69 x 11.75)
Note: A Fat Quarter is 18 x 21”. A Fat Eighth is 9 x 21”.
STABILIZER: Mesh Cut-‐away Stabilizer
STABILIZER: Mesh Cut-‐away Stabilizer
Fabric 1: (borders & back) 1 Fat Quarter Fabric 2: (background fabric) 1 Fat Eighth Fabric 3: (lining) 1 Fat Quarter Fabrics 4-‐8: (flying geese) (5) 5 ¼ x 3” each Other: Zipper (14” length) (non-‐metal teeth) Tape (a low-‐tack tape is best, such as washi tape or paper tape) Batting: (8 ½ x 13 ½”)
HOOP: 8x14 hoop (Embroidery Field Needed: 7.74 x 14)
Fabric 1: (borders & back) 1 Fat Quarter Fabric 2: (background fabric) 1 Fat Eighth Fabric 3: (lining) 1 Fat Quarter Fabrics 4-‐8: (flying geese) (5) 6 ¼ x 3 ½” each Other: Zipper (16” length) (non-‐metal teeth) Tape (a low-‐tack tape is best, such as washi tape or paper tape) Batting (9 ½ x 16 ½”)
© 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
1
“Flying to Pieces” Zipper Pouch Since both sizes of the zipper pouch incorporate the same method for piecing, as well as how the bag comes together, I will just show the step-‐by-‐steps for one of the pouches. Follow the cutting charts below for the specific size pouch you are making. Fabric 1 (borders & back) Fabric 2
Fabric 3
(lining: not shown in photo since it is inside the pouch)
(background)
Fabrics 4-‐8 (“flying geese”)
Cut the Following:
Reference this diagram to know where each cut piece will be placed. The outline of this will actually be stitched onto your batting, as described in embroidery instructions.
Zipper Pouch LARGE
JUMBO Zipper Pouch
From Fabric 1 : Cut (1) 13 x 8” block (outside backing piece) Cut (2) 13 x 2 ½” strips (border pieces 10 & 11) Cut (1) 13 x 1 ½” strip (border piece 8) Cut (2) 5 ¼ x 1 ½” strips (border pieces 6 & 7) From Fabric 2 : Cut (10) 3 ¾ x 2 ¼” strips (pieces B & C) From Fabric 3 : Cut (1) 13 x 8” block (lining back) Cut (1) 13 x 8” block (lining below zipper) Cut (1) 13 x 2 ½” block (lining above zipper) From Fabrics 4 -‐8: You should have (1) 5 ¼ x 3” block from each fabric for a total of 5 blocks (piece A)
From Fabric 1 : Cut (1) 16 x 9” block (outside backing piece) Cut (2) 16 x 2 ½” strips (border pieces 10 & 11) Cut (1) 16 x 1 ½” strip (border piece 8) Cut (2) 6 ½ x 1 ½” strips (border pieces 6 & 7) From Fabric 2 : Cut (10) 4 ½ x 2 ¾” strips (pieces B & C)
From Fabric 3 : Cut (1) 16 x 9” block (lining back) Cut (1) 16 x 9” block (lining below zipper) Cut (1) 16 x 2 ½” block (lining above zipper) From Fabrics 4 -‐8: You should have (1) 6 ¼ x 3 ½” block from each fabric for a total of 5 blocks (piece A)
© 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
2
Here’s What You Have After Cutting:
FABRIC 1
FABRIC 2
FABRIC 3
FABRICS 4-‐8
BATTING & ZIPPER
© 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
3
Embroider the Following: 1. Hoop cut-‐away stabilizer in appropriate-‐sized hoop. 2. Stitch the first step: the placement line for the batting. Place the oversized piece of batting on top of the stabilizer; make sure the placement line box is completely covered. Note: All stitching will be done on top of the batting. Do not cut the batting until the final step. 3. Stitch the next step: the flying geese piecing template. Note: A full size template is also included on this disk for your reference, but it is not necessary for completing the zipper pouch.
1.
4. Lay a piece of fabric (any from Fabrics 4-‐8) on top of section 1A. The fabric will be facing right side up.
2.
3.
4.
Section
1A
1A
© 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
4
5.
5. Stitch the next step: the trimming/placement line (as indicated with the black, dashed line in photo). The machine will stop. 6. Trim the fabric close to the stitch line. 7. Lay piece 1B right side down, centered along the line that was stitched in Step 5. 8. Stitch the next step: the seam stitch for pieces A & B. (as indicated with the black, dashed line in photo.) 9. Flip and press piece 1B right side up.
6.
Kim’s Tip: You can finger press, or use a mini craft iron to press along the seam line. This will help create crisp points and eliminate bubbling in your fabric.
7.
8.
ng wro of e sid 1B ce e Pi
9.
ng wro of e sid 1B ce Pie
) on t (fr T H f RIG ide o s 1B ce Pie
© 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
5
10. Stitch the next step: the trimming/placement line stitch for piece 1C (as indicated with the dashed, black line in the photo). 11. Trim the fabric close to the stitch line.
10.
11.
12. Lay piece 1C right side down, centered along the line stitched in Step 10. 13. Stitch the next step: the seam stitch for pieces A & C. 14. Flip and press piece 1C right side up. ng side 1C ro w f Piece o
12.
13.
14.
) nt fro t ( of gh e C Ri sid ce 1 e Pi
ng ro f w e o 1C sid ce e Pi
© 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
6
15. Stitch the next step: the trimming/placement line for piece 2A. 16. Trim the fabric close to the stitch line. 17. Lay piece 2A right side down, centered along the line stitched in Step 15. 18. Stitch the next step: the seam stitch for piece 2.
15.
16.
17.
18.
Section
2A
2A
19.
19. Flip and press piece 2A right side up. © 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
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20. Stitch the next step: the trimming/placement line for piece 2B. 21. Trim the fabric close to the stitch line. 22. Lay piece 2B right side down, centered along the line stitched in Step 20. 23. Stitch the next step: the seam stitch for pieces A & B. 24. Flip and press piece 2B right side up.
20.
21.
23.
22.
24.
© 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
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25. Stitch the next step: the trimming/placement line for piece 2C. 26. Trim the fabric close to the stitch line.
25.
26.
27. Lay piece 2C right side down, centered along the line stitched in Step 25. 28. Stitch the next step: the seam stitch for pieces A & C. 29. Flip and press piece 2C right side up.
27.
28.
29.
30. Continue following the above steps for the next three flying geese blocks. © 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
9
31. After completing the flying geese, you will sew on the borders. Sew the next stitch: the trimming/placement line for piece 6. 32. Trim the fabric close to the stitch line. (not pictured) 33. Lay piece 6 right side down, along the line stitched in Step 31.
31.
33.
34. Stitch the next step: the seam stitch for piece 6. (not pictured) 35. Flip and press piece 6 right side up. 36. Stitch the next step: the trimming/placement line for piece 7. 37. Trim the fabric close to the stitch line. (not pictured) 38. Lay piece 7 right side down, along the line stitched in Step 36.
35.
36.
38.
© 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
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39. Stitch the next step: the seam stitch for piece 7. (not pictured) 40. Flip and press piece 7 right side up. It’s at this point that I like to remove the hoop from the machine and give it a good pressing with an iron. 41. Stitch the next step: the trimming/placement line for piece 8. 42. Trim the fabric close to the stitch line. 43. Lay piece 8 right side down, along the line stitched in Step 41.
40.
41.
42.
43.
44. Stitch the next step: the seam stitch for piece 8. (not pictured) 45. Flip and press piece 8 right side up. Again, this is a good time to press this seam with an iron.
45.
© 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
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46. Stitch the next step: the trimming/placement line for piece 10. 47. Trim the excess fabric, but do not place piece 10 at this time. 48. Stitch the next step: the zipper placement stitch. 49. Carefully trim the batting from inside the box. Do not cut through the stabilizer. “open end” of zipper box
46.
48.
47.
49.
© 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
12
50. Tape the zipper in place, making sure the zipper pull and the zipper stop are outside of the box and will not be under the needle. The open end of the box is the direction your zipper pull should be on. (The light blue boxes in the photographs indicate where to place tape.) Kim’s Tip on Using Tape: Since the needle is going through the tape, it is best to use a low-‐ tack type of tape such as washi tape or paper tape. If you do not have those, or feel that those are still “too tacky”, you can eliminate some of that stickiness by first placing the tape on another piece of cloth (even your own clothing!) and then put the tape on your project. Doing this will leave a few “fuzzies” from the cloth or clothing, and help to take away the stickiness that can sometimes gum up your needle. It will be easier to tear away, as well!
50.
50.
51. Stitch the next step: the zipper tack down stitch (indicated with the dashed white line in photo). Remove tape.
52. Wrong sides together, iron pieces 10 & 11 (from Fabric 1) in half -‐-‐ the long way -‐-‐ making sure you get a nice crisp fold.
51.
52.
© 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
13
54.
raw edge
folded edge
53.
53. Place the raw edge of piece 10 on the previously stitched trimming/placement stitch line (see Step 47) making sure you center the piece of fabric on the line. 54. Stitch the next step: the seam stitch for piece 10. (Kim’s Tip: You may want to hold piece 10 in place as it stitches the line, so that it doesn’t shift while the machine is moving.) stitched line from Step 47 55. Flip and iron piece 10, so the fold is towards the zipper teeth. Tape the piece in place, so that the fold stays just below the zipper teeth. (The light blue boxes in the photographs indicate where to place tape. Be generous with the tape so you don’t have portions flip up.) 56. Stitch the next step: the tack down stitch. Note: This stitch will be seen in the finished product, so make sure the thread is the desired color. This stitch is also part of the finishing top stitches. A “stop” is placed afterwards in order to verify placement of fabric.
55.
56.
© 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
14
Before moving onto the next step, double-‐check your tack down line from Step 56 to be sure the fabric is evenly spaced next to the zipper. If it is where you like it, then remove hoop from machine, remove tape, and move to Step 57. If somehow the fabric shifted while stitching out Step 56 and you would like to re-‐do it, now is the time to carefully remove those stitches and start your machine again on that step. 57. From the underside of the hoop, carefully cut away the stabilizer that is just below the zipper. You will now see the underside of the zipper and zipper teeth. Doing this will help with the placement of the lining and create a nice finished edge. Stabilizer has been
57.
removed from behind the zipper.
58. Take one of the lining pieces (“the lining below the zipper piece”) and iron down 1 inch, in the long direction of the fabric. wrong side of fabric wrong side of fabric
58.
folded 1” edge
© 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
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59. Tape the lining (from Step 58) to the underside of the hoop (this lining piece will be below the zipper; it should completely cover the backside of the flying geese blocks and borders). Line up the fold just below the zipper teeth. This will ensure that the fabric covers the previous line stitched. The “right side” of the fabric should be facing up. (The light blue boxes in the photograph indicate where to place tape. Kim’s Tip: To prevent the tape from “rolling up” under the hoop, I like to adhere the tape onto one edge of the plastic embroidery hoop, to the next.) up-‐close view:
stabilizer
folded edge
folded edge
59.
White lines indicate where the back of the zipper teeth are.
60. Place hoop back into machine. Stitch the next step. It will stitch the tack-‐down line again (same as step 56 above), but this time it will also catch the lining piece. In addition, it will stitch a second finishing stitch across Piece 10, and tack-‐down the entire lining piece.
front view:
back view after step 60:
up-‐close view of the back:
60.
stabilizer
folded edge
back of zipper teeth
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61. Lay piece 11 with the fold toward the zipper teeth. Line up the fold so that it is even on both sides of the zipper, for a nice finished look. Place tape in a few places to keep fabric from shifting. (See Kim’s Tip for Using Tape on Page 13.) (The light blue boxes in the photographs indicate where to place tape.) 62. Sew the tack down stitch, which, again, is part of the top-‐stitching. A “stop” is placed afterwards in order to verify placement of fabric.
62.
61.
zipper teeth
folded edge
63. With wrong sides together, iron the top lining (the lining fabric that is above the zipper) in half, the long way. 64. Turn over hoop and place the lining fabric on the underside of the hoop. The fold should be toward the zipper teeth. Tape it in place.
64.
63.
fold ed e
dge
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65. Place hoop back into machine. Stitch the next step. It will stitch the tack-‐down line again (same as Step 62 above), but it will also catch the lining piece. In addition, it will stitch a second finishing stitch across Piece 11, and tack-‐down the top lining piece that is above the zipper.
65.
66. Open the zipper ¾ of the way. 67. Lay the back piece (Fabric 1) face down on top of the entire bag. Make sure it covers the entire perimeter of the outermost stitch line. The next step will sew down the back of the zipper pouch. 68. Remove hoop from machine and turn over to the underside of the hoop. Place the final lining piece, right side down, making sure it covers the entire box previous stitched. Place tape around the edges to prevent the back piece from shifting during this final step.
67.
wrong side of “backing piece” (Fabric 1)
68.
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69.
69. Stitch the final stitch. This will sew the lining in place, and leaves an opening for turning. 70. Remove tape. Un-‐hoop your project and trim around the entire box, approximately ¼” away from the seam line. Clip corners to reduce the bulk. 71. Turn the bag through the opening in the lining, to expose the inside of the bag. wrong side of “lining piece” (Fabric 3) 72. Hand stitch the opening closed or use hem tape to close the opening.
70.
71.
73. Turn your Flying To Pieces Pouch right side out, through the open zipper and poke out the corners. Press with steam for a nice finished look.
72.
73.
Have Fun! I hope you enjoyed the process of piecing in the hoop with your embroidery machine! Thank you for your purchase of this Kimberbell Designs Machine Embroidery CD! © 2015 Kimberbell Designs All Rights Reserved. www.KimberbellDesigns.com
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