G asherbrum I. O ur expedition w as com posed o f G iorgio N icolodi, Gino Valle, Fausto De Stefani, Sergio De Leo and me as leader. E xcessive heat caused problem s on the approach along the B raldo R iver and on the m ountain. We clim bed G asherbrum I by the north face up the Japanese C ouloir to Camp III and from there to the sum m it by the M essner-K am m erlander route. We established B ase Cam p, Cam ps I, II and III on July 21, 23, 27 and A ugust 2 at 5200, 5900, 6400 and 7200 m eters. It took seven hours for all o f us except N icolodi to reach the sum m it on A ugust 3 from Cam p III on very steep slopes. This was the 11th 8000er for D e Stefani and my 9th. S e r g io M a r t in i,