Koyo Zom, Hindu Raj. Bruce and Harry Hooker, Neville Jordison

K o y o Z o m , H in d u R aj. B ruce a n d H a rry H o o k er, N eville Jo rd iso n , B ruce L ittlew ood, R o b W ild and I clim bed fo r five w eeks in the K oyo Z om g ro u p a t the head o f the C h itral valley in July and A ugust. P e r­ m ission to clim b T h u i II was refused at the eleventh h o u r; hence o u r know ledge o f K oyo Z om was sparse. N evertheless, a fte r tw o w eeks’ reconnaissance on th e C h atib o i, P echus and K oyo glaciers, we agreed to establish a high cam p at 16,500 feet, tw o days from Base C am p at P echu s village, fo r an atte m p t on K oyo Z om by the east ridge. O n A u g u st 6 L ittlew o o d a n d W ild m ade the first ascent o f a snow peak (1 9 ,8 0 0 feet) east o f K oyo Zom . T he w eath er was p red ictab le— tw o o r three days o f low cloud an d snow every five o r six days. T h e atte m p t on K oyo Z om w as p lan n ed w ith this in m ind. O n A u g u st 16 the tw o H o o k ers re tre a te d from the east ridge a fte r a light-w eight alpine a tte m p t fro m the second high cam p on th e u p p e r p lateau . L ittlew ood and W ild biv o u ack ed at 21,0 0 0 feet on the next day and reach ed the sum m it (2 2 ,5 4 5 feet) on A u g u st 18. T h e ir d escent w as m ade m o re interestin g by a 20 0 -fo o t fall a t 22,0 0 0 feet, fo rtu n a te ly w ith o u t serious injury. A t the u p p e r p lateau , they m et the H o o k e r tw ins, w ho h ad just clim bed the tw o ad jac en t 2 0 ,0 0 0 -fo o t peaks. C o l i n B r o w n , Im p eria l C ollege M o u n ta in eerin g C lub, E n g lan d