Millet trail
MILLET TRAIL THE
A Sanctuary For St. Lucia’s Birds
BY KATHERINE ATKINSON I L L U S T R AT I O N S B Y C H R I S TO P H E R C OX
St. Lucia’s coastline is an undulating, curvaceous network of palm-shaded coves, bands of rocky precipices, sandy beaches, and yawning deltas that trim a lush, ascending interior. These idyllic scenes only tell half the tale. Away from the beach and deeper inland is another dimension to the island. The call of the ramier dove, melodious and insistent, and the promise of a sighting of the remarkable St. Lucia parrot, are drawing birdwatchers from all over the world to the birding scene in St. Lucia. The Millet Bird Sanctuary in the island’s interior is the perfect site for the casual birder and the ornithology enthusiast.
108
VISIONS • 2010
THE
adventure in Millet starts long before the binoculars and field guides come out. It begins in the early dawn light on the drive inland, a meandering excursion through banana lands and small communities. Freshly scrubbed children in neatly pressed uniforms wait roadside for the bus that will take them to school. The day’s laundry has already been hung, and the smells of lunch waft into the morning air to join the earthy smell of the country.
visionsofstlucia.com
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VISIONS • 2010
109
THE
MILLET
TRAIL is managed by the Forestry and Lands division of the St. Lucia government.
The area used to support families from the Millet community with harvests of dasheen, bananas and plantain. Forestry guide Aloysius once walked these trails with his siblings, carrying supplies in and produce out from the family lot. In the 1980’s the community plots were appropriated for the major reforestation project which accompanied the building of the Roseau Dam. So now Aloysius walks these trails once more, fiercely protective of its new significance for the watershed and wildlife protection, and vigilant for a sighting of species familiar and new. The forest reserve is a sensitive and vital component of St Lucia’s conservation efforts and its watershed management endeavours. The trail skirts the western lip of the North Central forest reserve and the ridge plunges dramatically down towards the lake of the Roseau Dam, a man-made entity which has rejuvenated a fragile ecosystem. The dam’s lake and the protected watershed area have created a sanctuary for hitherto scarce endemics and attracted the residence of traditionally migratory birds such as ducks and osprey which at the end of the season seem reluctant to go home. This is particularly lucky for the birding enthusiast. Among the St. Lucia endemics that make the Millet forest reserve their home is the Amazona Versicolor, a vibrantly plumed parrot locally known as Jacquot. Notoriously elusive, it is only the committed who catch sighting of the bird, though its distinctive call is often heard throughout the forest. The rusty backed St. Lucia Pewee also makes its home here, as does the St. Lucia Oriole, a black bird distinctively marked with arresting yellows and oranges. It is best appreciated in mid-flight as the colour contrast pops against the verdant forest. The St. Lucia Warbler bears a yellow breast, white wing bars and a grey back and the rare Antillean Blackfinch is distinguished from the common bullfinch by a unique tail twitching habit. The trail is moderate in difficulty and runs almost three kilometres. Bird watchers spend about three hours meandering through and stopping at designated points with high sighting
rates. At the outset of the trail, coquettish hummingbirds crisscross, fluttering from blossom to blossom. The hummingbird is enjoying a population boom and is the most sighted species on the trail. The Antillean Crested Hummingbird is only a few centimetres long with a distinctive crest reminiscent of the punk era. This hummingbird, along with its cousins the Purple-throated Carib and the Green-throated Carib, easily fit in the palm of the hand, if they would stay still long enough. The hyper-active species hover and dart with splendid precision all through the Millet trail. The summer months, and the onset of the mango season are a good time to bird watch. The aromatic, succulent fruit is a favourite among the forest’s birdlife, including the St. Lucia parrot. The foresters have strategically placed husked coconuts along the trail to encourage some of the larger bird species to feed within easy viewing from the trails. The sweetmeat is preferred by many birds. It is at one such station that the rare Blackfinch with its characteristic twitching tail reveals itself. A little further down the trail and there is another one with its female counterpart. It is an exciting event. Even the seasoned Aloysius is animated by the sighting. At one point Aloysius pauses in the trail and inclines towards what turns out to be the distress call of an oriole. The high pitched screech alerts the entire forest, and we are in time to catch sight of a retreating Broad Winged Hawk, a predatory bird of great beauty, but a confounded nuisance to the smaller bird species. Farmers on the holdings which skirt the forest reserve are just as vocal; the young of their farm-raised livestock are also under threat from this voracious carnivore. Still, it is a majestic bird. Three hours disappear quickly. Bird watching is a meditative experience. Instinctively, the body stills so as not to alarm the skittish bird species. The Millet trail is sure to satisfy. The journey is also as pleasant as the destination.
The Millet Trail is open from Monday to Friday 8 am to 6 pm and weekends and holidays by appointment. To enhance the experience and avoid hazards and nuisances, go with a forestry department guide. Call the Forest and Lands Department at 451 1691 to make a reservation.
110
VISIONS 2010
Christopher Cox
I L L U S T R AT I O N S B Y C H R I S TO P H E R C OX
Christopher Cox is a St. Lucian wildlife artist. His work has been exhibited in local galleries as well as overseas, and is part of the Caribbean Conservation Association poster series. His prints are published in Birds of Our Island, the St. Lucia National Trust A-Z of St. Lucia Wildlife and the Princeton University Press tome, A Guide to Birds of the West Indies (1998). You can visit his website at www.chriscoxoriginals.com or christopher-cox.fineartamerica.com visionsofstlucia.com
|
VISIONS • 2010
111
A Sanctuary For St. Lucia’s Birds
BY KATHERINE ATKINSON I L L U S T R AT I O N S B Y C H R I S TO P H E R C OX
St. Lucia’s coastline is an undulating, curvaceous network of palm-shaded coves, bands of rocky precipices, sandy beaches, and yawning deltas that trim a lush, ascending interior. These idyllic scenes only tell half the tale. Away from the beach and deeper inland is another dimension to the island. The call of the ramier dove, melodious and insistent, and the promise of a sighting of the remarkable St. Lucia parrot, are drawing birdwatchers from all over the world to the birding scene in St. Lucia. The Millet Bird Sanctuary in the island’s interior is the perfect site for the casual birder and the ornithology enthusiast.
108
VISIONS • 2010
THE
adventure in Millet starts long before the binoculars and field guides come out. It begins in the early dawn light on the drive inland, a meandering excursion through banana lands and small communities. Freshly scrubbed children in neatly pressed uniforms wait roadside for the bus that will take them to school. The day’s laundry has already been hung, and the smells of lunch waft into the morning air to join the earthy smell of the country.
visionsofstlucia.com
|
VISIONS • 2010
109
THE
MILLET
TRAIL is managed by the Forestry and Lands division of the St. Lucia government.
The area used to support families from the Millet community with harvests of dasheen, bananas and plantain. Forestry guide Aloysius once walked these trails with his siblings, carrying supplies in and produce out from the family lot. In the 1980’s the community plots were appropriated for the major reforestation project which accompanied the building of the Roseau Dam. So now Aloysius walks these trails once more, fiercely protective of its new significance for the watershed and wildlife protection, and vigilant for a sighting of species familiar and new. The forest reserve is a sensitive and vital component of St Lucia’s conservation efforts and its watershed management endeavours. The trail skirts the western lip of the North Central forest reserve and the ridge plunges dramatically down towards the lake of the Roseau Dam, a man-made entity which has rejuvenated a fragile ecosystem. The dam’s lake and the protected watershed area have created a sanctuary for hitherto scarce endemics and attracted the residence of traditionally migratory birds such as ducks and osprey which at the end of the season seem reluctant to go home. This is particularly lucky for the birding enthusiast. Among the St. Lucia endemics that make the Millet forest reserve their home is the Amazona Versicolor, a vibrantly plumed parrot locally known as Jacquot. Notoriously elusive, it is only the committed who catch sighting of the bird, though its distinctive call is often heard throughout the forest. The rusty backed St. Lucia Pewee also makes its home here, as does the St. Lucia Oriole, a black bird distinctively marked with arresting yellows and oranges. It is best appreciated in mid-flight as the colour contrast pops against the verdant forest. The St. Lucia Warbler bears a yellow breast, white wing bars and a grey back and the rare Antillean Blackfinch is distinguished from the common bullfinch by a unique tail twitching habit. The trail is moderate in difficulty and runs almost three kilometres. Bird watchers spend about three hours meandering through and stopping at designated points with high sighting
rates. At the outset of the trail, coquettish hummingbirds crisscross, fluttering from blossom to blossom. The hummingbird is enjoying a population boom and is the most sighted species on the trail. The Antillean Crested Hummingbird is only a few centimetres long with a distinctive crest reminiscent of the punk era. This hummingbird, along with its cousins the Purple-throated Carib and the Green-throated Carib, easily fit in the palm of the hand, if they would stay still long enough. The hyper-active species hover and dart with splendid precision all through the Millet trail. The summer months, and the onset of the mango season are a good time to bird watch. The aromatic, succulent fruit is a favourite among the forest’s birdlife, including the St. Lucia parrot. The foresters have strategically placed husked coconuts along the trail to encourage some of the larger bird species to feed within easy viewing from the trails. The sweetmeat is preferred by many birds. It is at one such station that the rare Blackfinch with its characteristic twitching tail reveals itself. A little further down the trail and there is another one with its female counterpart. It is an exciting event. Even the seasoned Aloysius is animated by the sighting. At one point Aloysius pauses in the trail and inclines towards what turns out to be the distress call of an oriole. The high pitched screech alerts the entire forest, and we are in time to catch sight of a retreating Broad Winged Hawk, a predatory bird of great beauty, but a confounded nuisance to the smaller bird species. Farmers on the holdings which skirt the forest reserve are just as vocal; the young of their farm-raised livestock are also under threat from this voracious carnivore. Still, it is a majestic bird. Three hours disappear quickly. Bird watching is a meditative experience. Instinctively, the body stills so as not to alarm the skittish bird species. The Millet trail is sure to satisfy. The journey is also as pleasant as the destination.
The Millet Trail is open from Monday to Friday 8 am to 6 pm and weekends and holidays by appointment. To enhance the experience and avoid hazards and nuisances, go with a forestry department guide. Call the Forest and Lands Department at 451 1691 to make a reservation.
110
VISIONS 2010
Christopher Cox
I L L U S T R AT I O N S B Y C H R I S TO P H E R C OX
Christopher Cox is a St. Lucian wildlife artist. His work has been exhibited in local galleries as well as overseas, and is part of the Caribbean Conservation Association poster series. His prints are published in Birds of Our Island, the St. Lucia National Trust A-Z of St. Lucia Wildlife and the Princeton University Press tome, A Guide to Birds of the West Indies (1998). You can visit his website at www.chriscoxoriginals.com or christopher-cox.fineartamerica.com visionsofstlucia.com
|
VISIONS • 2010
111
