Munjan Hindu Kush Kohe Morusg and Other Peaks. The Kraków ...
M unjan H indu K ush K ohe M orusg and O ther Peaks. The K rak ów Section of the Polish Society of E arth Sciences sent out an expedition under the leadership
of Jerzy W ala and com posed of W. Borowiec, A. Paulo, L. Kaszowski, A nna Swierzyńska, J. N iew odniczański and J. M ościński. W e worked in the Suyengal and Peshashgal valleys. Base Cam p was in the Suyengal at 1 3 ,0 0 0 feet and other camps were at 1 6 ,075 , 1 7 ,5 5 0 and 1 5 ,7 5 0 feet. We m ade the following ascents: K ohe Saruke Sard (1 8 ,7 9 1 feet) second ascent via an ice couloir and the west ridge by Borowiec, N iew odniczański on July 21; Kohe M orusg (2 0 ,0 1 3 fee t) from the north via the K otale Bardar and northeast ridge by Borowiec, Paulo, W ala on July 23 (w e had a high cam p at 1 7 ,5 5 0 fee t); K ohe D osare Surengal, north peak (1 7 ,6 5 0 feet) from the west to a col of 1 6 ,7 5 0 feet and then the north ridge by Borociec, N iew odniczański, W ala on July 28; P 5 5 5 0 (1 8 ,2 0 9 fee t) first ascent by east ridge by Swierzyńska and Paulo; P 4 9 0 0 (1 6 ,0 7 6 feet) from southeast by Kaszowski on July 28 during scientific work; also various passes. W e carried out geomorphic, geological and geophysical w ork. Before our w ork here, we visited the w estern and the Pachigram H indu Kush. See below. K ohe M orusg and O ther Peaks. The Stoleczny T atra Club P T T K of W arsaw was led by Stanislaw Bratkowski and com posed of Dr. A. Bukowski, U rszula N uzyńska, J.S. G raczyk, A. and A.J. Ziolecki, R. Kaczarowski, T. W asilczuk and A. Pytlakowski. They climbed in the Suyengal, m aking the following ascents: P 4 8 0 0 (1 5 ,7 4 8 feet) first ascent, from the west by A. and A .J. Ziolecki on July 15; P 4 2 6 7 and P 4 2 5 7 (1 3 ,9 9 9 and 1 3 ,967 feet) from the southeast by Bukowski and Kaczarow ski on July 16, by G raczyk on July 2 0 and by Wasilczuk, N uzynska, Bratkowski on July 21; P 5 1 5 0 (1 6 ,8 9 7 fee t) first ascent, by A. and A.J. Ziolecki, K aczarow ski on July 21; P 5 5 8 0 (1 8 ,3 0 7 feet) second ascent by a new route, by the glacier and north couloir to the col of 1 8 ,0 0 0 feet and thence up the west ridge, rock, by A. and A.J. Ziolecki, K aczarowski on July 22; K ohe M orusg (2 0 ,1 1 3 feet) with Cam p I on the K otale B ardar at 1 7 ,5 5 0 feet and Cam p II on the northeast ridge at 1 8 ,550 feet by Pytlakowski, W asilczuk from July 23 to 25, by G raczyk, N uzyńska, K aczarow ski from July 23 to 27. P c. 5 4 3 0 (1 7 ,8 1 5 feet by the ridge east from the K otale Bardar, ice, by Graczyk, N uzyńska on July 25 and by Bratkowski, W asilczuk on July 27; P c. 5 0 0 0 (1 6 ,4 0 4 feet) first ascent, from west by A. and A.J. Ziolecki on July 28; P 5 2 0 0 (1 7 ,0 6 1 feet) by south face by A. and A.J. Zioł ecki, Bratkowski, Pytlakow ski on, July 30; P 5 0 0 0 (1 6 ,4 0 4 feet; above the K otale M ondai) via south ridge by Graczyk. Paulo (fro m W ala expedition) on A ugust 1. Peaks above the C hapdara Valley. T he Szczecin M ountain Club Expedition was led by Tadeusz Rewaj and com posed of R. Ukielski, W. L apiński, B arbara Lapińska, B. K om arnicki, J. Bryła, L. Jezierski, J. Palejczyk, A. Bohosiewicz and J. Budkowski. Base Cam p was at Totuksaya in the upper C hapdara valley at 13 ,125 feet beside N ila
Lake. They made the following ascents: P 4950 (16,240 feet) first ascent, from the southeast by Kom arnicki, Palejczyk on July 15; K ohe Khwaja-Shagwa (18,323 feet), northw est peak (18,209 feet) and southeast peak (18,323 feet) from the northeast and over the n o rth west ridge by A. Bohosiewiecz, Lipiński on July 16 and 17; P 5014 (16,450 feet) first ascent, via northw est face and west ridge by Brył a, K om arnicki, Palejczyk, Rewaj on July 17; P 5336 (17,507 feet) first ascent, from the southeast, rock, by K om arnicki, Palejczyk on July 22; P 5500 (18,045 feet) first ascent, via northeast face, ice and rock, by Lipiński, Rewaj on July 23; P 5700 (18,701 feet) first ascent, from the southwest by K om arnicki, Palejczyk on July 28; P. 5580 (18,307 feet) first ascent, from the southeast by Budkowski, Rewaj on July 28; P 5100 (16,733 feet) first ascent, from the northw est by Budkowski, Ukielski on July 30. T he members noted that the K otale Parshui (Parshui Pass; c. 16,900 feet) is regularly used by natives to get from N uristan to Badakhstan or vice versa. They also used K otale M ondal (16,240 feet) and the col between P 5240 and P 5114 for com m unica tion between Peshashgal and D arrahe Rees. Kohe Caniga l (K ohe P arshui) and O ther Peaks. The A cadem ic Guide Section of K raków Expedition was led by M arek R adw ański and composed of K. Gasiorowski, A. Lewicki, J. Sułowski, T. D om ański, L. G erm an, A. Herbowski, J. Dziura, S. M aślanka, B arbara Skawińska, Zofia Musielewicz-Jasińska, Dr. S. Sklarczek, W. Semkowicz, Z. Tynor. They were in the Canigal valley near the C hapdara valley. Base Cam p was at 13,000 feet and Cam p I at 16,400 feet on the Canigal Glacier. The nam e Canigal seems to be the native nam e for w hat previously has been called K ohe Parshui or K ohe Parsho; it also apears on the A CI 1:250,000 and A dvance Copy 1:50,000 maps. (O n these maps K ohe T unday Shagai Sha appears as K ohe Toluksay.) The following climbs were m ade: K ohe Canigal (K ohe Parshui; 19,718 feet) via the Canigal Glacier, northeast buttress and northw est ridge, ice, by R adw ański, Gasiorowski from A ugust 10 to 12; P 5216 (17,113 feet) second ascent, from the southwest and the cirque via the west side, rock, by Lewicki, Suł owski on August 13; P 5288 (17,350 feet) first ascent, from the north to the col of 16,900 feet and thence via the west ridge by Radwanski, D om ański, Skawińska, Mulsielewicz-Jasinska on July 14; P 5300 (17,389 feet) traverse from south to north by Lewicki, Suł owski on August 13.
of Jerzy W ala and com posed of W. Borowiec, A. Paulo, L. Kaszowski, A nna Swierzyńska, J. N iew odniczański and J. M ościński. W e worked in the Suyengal and Peshashgal valleys. Base Cam p was in the Suyengal at 1 3 ,0 0 0 feet and other camps were at 1 6 ,075 , 1 7 ,5 5 0 and 1 5 ,7 5 0 feet. We m ade the following ascents: K ohe Saruke Sard (1 8 ,7 9 1 feet) second ascent via an ice couloir and the west ridge by Borowiec, N iew odniczański on July 21; Kohe M orusg (2 0 ,0 1 3 fee t) from the north via the K otale Bardar and northeast ridge by Borowiec, Paulo, W ala on July 23 (w e had a high cam p at 1 7 ,5 5 0 fee t); K ohe D osare Surengal, north peak (1 7 ,6 5 0 feet) from the west to a col of 1 6 ,7 5 0 feet and then the north ridge by Borociec, N iew odniczański, W ala on July 28; P 5 5 5 0 (1 8 ,2 0 9 fee t) first ascent by east ridge by Swierzyńska and Paulo; P 4 9 0 0 (1 6 ,0 7 6 feet) from southeast by Kaszowski on July 28 during scientific work; also various passes. W e carried out geomorphic, geological and geophysical w ork. Before our w ork here, we visited the w estern and the Pachigram H indu Kush. See below. K ohe M orusg and O ther Peaks. The Stoleczny T atra Club P T T K of W arsaw was led by Stanislaw Bratkowski and com posed of Dr. A. Bukowski, U rszula N uzyńska, J.S. G raczyk, A. and A.J. Ziolecki, R. Kaczarowski, T. W asilczuk and A. Pytlakowski. They climbed in the Suyengal, m aking the following ascents: P 4 8 0 0 (1 5 ,7 4 8 feet) first ascent, from the west by A. and A .J. Ziolecki on July 15; P 4 2 6 7 and P 4 2 5 7 (1 3 ,9 9 9 and 1 3 ,967 feet) from the southeast by Bukowski and Kaczarow ski on July 16, by G raczyk on July 2 0 and by Wasilczuk, N uzynska, Bratkowski on July 21; P 5 1 5 0 (1 6 ,8 9 7 fee t) first ascent, by A. and A.J. Ziolecki, K aczarow ski on July 21; P 5 5 8 0 (1 8 ,3 0 7 feet) second ascent by a new route, by the glacier and north couloir to the col of 1 8 ,0 0 0 feet and thence up the west ridge, rock, by A. and A.J. Ziolecki, K aczarowski on July 22; K ohe M orusg (2 0 ,1 1 3 feet) with Cam p I on the K otale B ardar at 1 7 ,5 5 0 feet and Cam p II on the northeast ridge at 1 8 ,550 feet by Pytlakowski, W asilczuk from July 23 to 25, by G raczyk, N uzyńska, K aczarow ski from July 23 to 27. P c. 5 4 3 0 (1 7 ,8 1 5 feet by the ridge east from the K otale Bardar, ice, by Graczyk, N uzyńska on July 25 and by Bratkowski, W asilczuk on July 27; P c. 5 0 0 0 (1 6 ,4 0 4 feet) first ascent, from west by A. and A.J. Ziolecki on July 28; P 5 2 0 0 (1 7 ,0 6 1 feet) by south face by A. and A.J. Zioł ecki, Bratkowski, Pytlakow ski on, July 30; P 5 0 0 0 (1 6 ,4 0 4 feet; above the K otale M ondai) via south ridge by Graczyk. Paulo (fro m W ala expedition) on A ugust 1. Peaks above the C hapdara Valley. T he Szczecin M ountain Club Expedition was led by Tadeusz Rewaj and com posed of R. Ukielski, W. L apiński, B arbara Lapińska, B. K om arnicki, J. Bryła, L. Jezierski, J. Palejczyk, A. Bohosiewicz and J. Budkowski. Base Cam p was at Totuksaya in the upper C hapdara valley at 13 ,125 feet beside N ila
Lake. They made the following ascents: P 4950 (16,240 feet) first ascent, from the southeast by Kom arnicki, Palejczyk on July 15; K ohe Khwaja-Shagwa (18,323 feet), northw est peak (18,209 feet) and southeast peak (18,323 feet) from the northeast and over the n o rth west ridge by A. Bohosiewiecz, Lipiński on July 16 and 17; P 5014 (16,450 feet) first ascent, via northw est face and west ridge by Brył a, K om arnicki, Palejczyk, Rewaj on July 17; P 5336 (17,507 feet) first ascent, from the southeast, rock, by K om arnicki, Palejczyk on July 22; P 5500 (18,045 feet) first ascent, via northeast face, ice and rock, by Lipiński, Rewaj on July 23; P 5700 (18,701 feet) first ascent, from the southwest by K om arnicki, Palejczyk on July 28; P. 5580 (18,307 feet) first ascent, from the southeast by Budkowski, Rewaj on July 28; P 5100 (16,733 feet) first ascent, from the northw est by Budkowski, Ukielski on July 30. T he members noted that the K otale Parshui (Parshui Pass; c. 16,900 feet) is regularly used by natives to get from N uristan to Badakhstan or vice versa. They also used K otale M ondal (16,240 feet) and the col between P 5240 and P 5114 for com m unica tion between Peshashgal and D arrahe Rees. Kohe Caniga l (K ohe P arshui) and O ther Peaks. The A cadem ic Guide Section of K raków Expedition was led by M arek R adw ański and composed of K. Gasiorowski, A. Lewicki, J. Sułowski, T. D om ański, L. G erm an, A. Herbowski, J. Dziura, S. M aślanka, B arbara Skawińska, Zofia Musielewicz-Jasińska, Dr. S. Sklarczek, W. Semkowicz, Z. Tynor. They were in the Canigal valley near the C hapdara valley. Base Cam p was at 13,000 feet and Cam p I at 16,400 feet on the Canigal Glacier. The nam e Canigal seems to be the native nam e for w hat previously has been called K ohe Parshui or K ohe Parsho; it also apears on the A CI 1:250,000 and A dvance Copy 1:50,000 maps. (O n these maps K ohe T unday Shagai Sha appears as K ohe Toluksay.) The following climbs were m ade: K ohe Canigal (K ohe Parshui; 19,718 feet) via the Canigal Glacier, northeast buttress and northw est ridge, ice, by R adw ański, Gasiorowski from A ugust 10 to 12; P 5216 (17,113 feet) second ascent, from the southwest and the cirque via the west side, rock, by Lewicki, Suł owski on August 13; P 5288 (17,350 feet) first ascent, from the north to the col of 16,900 feet and thence via the west ridge by Radwanski, D om ański, Skawińska, Mulsielewicz-Jasinska on July 14; P 5300 (17,389 feet) traverse from south to north by Lewicki, Suł owski on August 13.
